FASTER THAN R50 V10 TWIN TURBO VW TOE RAG! (AWD KX-S Kluger) 7.10 seconds 0-100kph (+ FJ Cruiser) 6.84 seconds 0-100kph V6=Don Mega!!!!

[RICE RACING]

Hi

I just wanted to post up a picture of my new Kluger

I have only had it a 2 days so still bonding with my new baby but she is having a good positive effect on me ONLY MODS so far is taking of engine cover and removing nipples and replacing with cap head bolts as to not hold in heat over wiring harness and coil packs under high heat load, I work on all types of cars (performance tuner/engine builder) and like to have an engine look like it and not be dressed up with plastic crap

Wanting to share my path to getting this car with people considering it or otherwise. Prior to this I had started a journey on the quest to find a efficient replacement for my 1998 100 series 4.5lt petrol Landcruiser (owned for 6 years by me). After selling it in Feb I started looking for the "ideal" SUV...... my requirement was a little funny in that I wanted good efficiency but also above average power *dreamer I hear you say lol*. Well I started out looking @ the VW Tiguan, went to local dealer in regional Vic and drove one was not so impressed with build quality (for price), performance was ok, then drove a Toureg in both V6 TDi and 5cyl TDi, also viewed various Landrovers etc and came away with conclusion after many drives that the only car to buy would be a 100 series TDi like my dads! Best compromise of know Toyota toughness and efficiency (though sacrificing my goal of quasi sportiness). Well did the scour of carsales.com and found an "immaculate suit new car buyer" example ! Take out day to visit this car with ca$h in hand to find it was a heap of crap! ........................ thus the story begins!

Being quite depressed on way home from Melbourne to Bairnsdale we decide to stop in a Toyota dealer just to look if they have any suitable examples in stock. Get out of car and walk past a Kluger in lot and glance over at fuel rating tag (11lt per 100km!) I'm like WTF?! NO WAY a petty V6 can do that! get talking to a *salesman*! and he says same thing that it is true and better yet they do better than that in reality. Well right about now I have a gut full of this crap after a long day and simply ask for a brochoure on the RAV4, then get out of there to go back home and calm down a bit. On the way home and that evening I decide to try a RAV4 at my local Bairnsdale dealer where I had drive a brand new Prado D4D the week before (did not buy as I hated the rear tail gate and look of them + reliability problems).

We turn up and take a RAV4 for a drive!!! OMG it was a total animal, torque steer at 100km on full throttle in straight line! stupid fast (for its type) SUV and a bit to crappy in the gearbox and trim inside + I felt would not be stable for my limited towing goals. I also hated the part time 4wd which was a nightmare in the way it made the chassis react to the excess power for that chassis! ............ Feeling totally confused and ****** off by now dad suggested to me we try the Kluger? since we were here and it looked more suitable. OMFG! This is where EVERYTHING changed!!! I kid you not 100m out of the driveway of the dealership I said to dad "This is the car I want!" Everything about it after stepping out of the RAV was QUALITY, gearbox was smooth as silk, chassis much much more sure footed, so many things made an instant impression. You need to remember my dad owns his own mint 100 series HDH100R and also I had recently driven so many SUV from 80k Toureg to Land Rover and this thing reminded me of the quality of the top spec VW. The performance was only slightly less than the RAV but was faster than the 80k VW! the quality was the same in my opinion the level of complexity was FAR less, the average sticker fuel usage was the same (within .2lt) and in my testing of both cars I recored 11.5lt for the VW and an AMAZING 10.8lt for the Kluger! I simply could not believe it. I did a 85km test on it and simply pulled up back there and said lets go buy this thing went into showroom and to negotiate on getting a base model in AWD and then this blue thing caught my eye, I went over to look at her saw the leather and color and said I gotta have this thing Did a little negotiation and all up on road with a few accessories I paid $56,500 for my KX-S AWD Klugie April 2008 build *drive away*. Done so far 520km and have average 9.4lt per 100km on first 220km and now 10.4lt on last 300km inc a bit of stop start, and sitting in drive through stuff + doing engine drive line break in procedure till I pass 1000km.

I am in love with it! its been a fitting end to a BIG adventure and I have no doubt she will serve me well

I hope to tow my sports car with it to a few local events and interstate when time allows, need to find a decent trailer... Feel happier reading another user on here with his towing a RX8 and getting great economy to boot, feel more relaxed now that this thing will do the job in every criteria I hoped to meet.

http://www.riceracin...ceSPGallery.htm

Edited September 26, 2012 by RICE RACING

[Blackkluger]

We also took delivery of our KXS AWD on Saturday, we couldnt be happier, it has all the stuff i wanted/needed. FANTASTIC!

[Iwantone]

Had my KX-R AWD for just over 1 week now. I really love driving this car. Its a HUGE step up for me (last car was a 94 Commodore wagon with over 250000km on the clock!). My economy is sitting around 11-13lt per 100km though majority of my driving is 5 minute trips around suburbia so more than happy with that. Had it down to 9.2 on the freeway which is amazing.

There is only one thing that could make me love driving this thing more.... a sound proof barrier between me and the 3 kids aged 6 and under in the back seat!.

Enjoy

[RICE RACING]

Had my KX-R AWD for just over 1 week now. I really love driving this car. Its a HUGE step up for me (last car was a 94 Commodore wagon with over 250000km on the clock!). My economy is sitting around 11-13lt per 100km though majority of my driving is 5 minute trips around suburbia so more than happy with that. Had it down to 9.2 on the freeway which is amazing.

There is only one thing that could make me love driving this thing more.... a sound proof barrier between me and the 3 kids aged 6 and under in the back seat!.

Enjoy

Yeah :)

They are an awesome rig! I took mine today to the local drags (not to compete lol) and had a great time backing her up the the track, popping the tail gate, and sitting in comfort watching the racing.... after that went for a drive to Dargo to do the bigger parts of the break in process and the roads are just so ideal for this, always varying the speed and load (still not full throttle or full power) but up to 4500rpm and 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and used every gear up to max speed of 100~110kph. Its a very winding and has a great altitude variation got up to 750km on it now and average for this fairly high duty mountain drive was 10.6Lt per 100km (did over 525km) using 3/4 tank of juice (1/4 still showing on gauge) she took 56lt on the fill up. This for me today was the real test as nothing screws up or tests "official" fuel economy more than doing mountain drives especially while doing a run in procedure where your loading the engine to allow a proper break in and seating of rings/bores etc.

Back on the flat going home and she was around 8.5lt or so sitting on steady state 100km flat land.

** My average over 750km thus far inc all driving situations ** is 10.05Lt per 100km which is bloody excellent as I live in an area where there is quite a bit of altitude variation and speed changes (tight corners) stopping to open gate, close open garage, put around town etc + putting some real engine load today on the 250km drive so far from looking for maximum economy or frugal driving which I will try to do once she is settled in.

I like mine more each time I drive it :)

After I have done my 1000km break in I will change out factory oil and bin the filter and put on a new item and my Mobil 1 5w-50 I use in my race engines and customers cars.

Got another pic of me in Dargo with the Klugie

Edited June 8, 2008 by RICE RACING

[RICE RACING]

Oh yeah....... forgot to mention.

Upon filling it up tonight I lifted the tire pressure to 38psi front and rear on on my way home noticed the ride was much better! less road noise (go figure?) and seemed quieter too? pretty odd as generally noticed in all my years things on the comfort side got worse with more pressure normally, was only a 16km trip and I was tired...... so could have been dreaming

[Iwantone]

Interesting about tyre pressure. Will let hubby know (that is his department!).

I have one question, do you know why the graph showing fuel usage sits at 30lt when the car is running but not moving? (ie at traffic lights etc). The other day I was in my sisters driveway chatting (as us ladies like to do) and the fuel usage kept rising. In 5 minutes it went up nearly 1 ltr?. Does the car really use that much fuel at idle?. Just wondering.

Also does "running in a vehicle" properly make much difference to fuel consumption?. Our car was an ex demo as it was the only way we could afford the AWD model and I often wonder how much damage that has done to the engine? . I am sure those driving the car did not take it easy. It only has 3500km on it and is 12 months old.

Thanks :D

[SamF]

Interesting about tyre pressure. Will let hubby know (that is his department!).

I have one question, do you know why the graph showing fuel usage sits at 30lt when the car is running but not moving? (ie at traffic lights etc). The other day I was in my sisters driveway chatting (as us ladies like to do) and the fuel usage kept rising. In 5 minutes it went up nearly 1 ltr?. Does the car really use that much fuel at idle?. Just wondering.

Also does "running in a vehicle" properly make much difference to fuel consumption?. Our car was an ex demo as it was the only way we could afford the AWD model and I often wonder how much damage that has done to the engine? . I am sure those driving the car did not take it easy. It only has 3500km on it and is 12 months old.

Thanks :D

Hi Iwantone

The fuel consumption gauge is graduated in Litres/ 100 Kilometres. Because when you are idling, you are not moving, therefore your Kilometer being travelled is zero. Any number divided by 0, the result is infinity. The highest consulmption shown on the gauge is 30 litres /100 kilometer therefore as the actual is infinity it just registers the highest reading while you are not moving.

[Scott_C]

Congrats man, they are an astounding vehicle. Ive traded from a Lexus to my Kluger and I wouldnt go back!

You should talk to Taka here on this forum, he uses his Kluger to tow a RX7 as well. :) Think he the prez of the Mazda car club too.

[mrbishi]

Congratulations guys, enjoy them, they are a great car.

Regarding towing, yes Taka towes a car with his as well and I think hes had no problems at all.

[Iwantone]

Interesting about tyre pressure. Will let hubby know (that is his department!).

I have one question, do you know why the graph showing fuel usage sits at 30lt when the car is running but not moving? (ie at traffic lights etc). The other day I was in my sisters driveway chatting (as us ladies like to do) and the fuel usage kept rising. In 5 minutes it went up nearly 1 ltr?. Does the car really use that much fuel at idle?. Just wondering.

Also does "running in a vehicle" properly make much difference to fuel consumption?. Our car was an ex demo as it was the only way we could afford the AWD model and I often wonder how much damage that has done to the engine? . I am sure those driving the car did not take it easy. It only has 3500km on it and is 12 months old.

Thanks :D

Hi Iwantone

The fuel consumption gauge is graduated in Litres/ 100 Kilometres. Because when you are idling, you are not moving, therefore your Kilometer being travelled is zero. Any number divided by 0, the result is infinity. The highest consulmption shown on the gauge is 30 litres /100 kilometer therefore as the actual is infinity it just registers the highest reading while you are not moving.

Thanks for that, I knew there would be a logical answer :P

[RICE RACING]

Here is a few more pictures :)

This is how nice the engine looks without the silly cover on top of it, I removed this to keep the wiring harness from suffering heat damage and also let coil packs run cooler, removed nipples and replaced with cap head screws...... Its such an impressive motor I needed to see it each time I popped the hood :D

Here is a picture of the consumption I got today on a 83km trip, it consists of final part of run in process, and its really starting to show its potential on 1/2 to 3/4 throttle accelerating up to 110kph and using 4800rpm, I probably did this 10 times on this trip not including the 3rd and 4th gear pulls up 20% incline hills to continue the progressive loading up on the engine, its getting better each time I drive it

And I have covered a grand 850km or so, another 150km *maybe a touch more* and I can then feel the full acceleration like when I test drove the demo car :)

I cant believe how efficient this donk is! (I am running BP ultimate 98) its going to return some amazing consumption figures once I finish this procedure I have no doubts at all. Even father cant believe how good it is (and he has a 100 series turbo diesel) it uses less fuel than that and I am driving it harder and much faster in acceleration, a testament to how good an engine is in the Kluger.

Oh and yes 100% about the tire pressure, another family member commented that the car was quieter inside (I did not tell them about the tire pressure change) and my feeling this afternoon was the same as last night too :D

[zeroseven]

Gday. I also have a KX-S. Just finished my first tank of fuel, about 490km of suburb driving. Ave 13.0/100km.

Really wrapped about the car, but am hoping efficiency improves a little. Haven't been on open roads as yet.

I'm interested in your 'run in' proceedure.

Do you think you could document it in point form on this thread. I think many 'less informed' would find it useful.

Thanks in advance.

[RICE RACING]

Gday. I also have a KX-S. Just finished my first tank of fuel, about 490km of suburb driving. Ave 13.0/100km.

Really wrapped about the car, but am hoping efficiency improves a little. Haven't been on open roads as yet.

I'm interested in your 'run in' proceedure.

Do you think you could document it in point form on this thread. I think many 'less informed' would find it useful.

Thanks in advance.

Here goes *keep in mind this are just my ideas I apply to all engines from my racing rotaries to my little 3.5cc Nitro Methanol RC buggy* (I build my own engines and pull apart many so its the basis of my ideas behind run in)

Do not apply any great load on your engine until properly warmed up (even after run in) *temp needle has stabilized mid way*

* My KX-s had 11km on it when I picked it up.

1. First step (sub 3000rpm)

No speed higher than 80kph for first 200km

- very light throttle application (1/4 and avoid any big hills and if approaching any use minimal power)

- vary speed if possible but not crucial at this stage

2. Part 2 (sub 3000rpm)

- 200km with speed increased to 90kph

- 1/4 to 1/3rd throttle but again taking off like the proverbial grand mother is the go still here

3. part 3 (up to 3500rpm)

- 200km with maximum speed lifted to 100kph

- same 1/4 to 1/3 throttle, still not using any great amount of available power to accelerate vehicle, as a guide you should be getting 10lt per 100km region in non city (excessive stop start) driving to give you an idea of how gentle I do this phase

(by this time your @ 600mk covered *if it applies to your car*) and now you can start to find a nice area and manually control the gearbox to allow the revs to be held before its allowed to shift into next gear

4. part 4 (4000rpm)

- 200km maximum speed to 110kph

1/2 to 3/4 and NOT FROM STAND STILL YET but from 40 to 60 kph I hold the gears working them from 2nd to 4th and shifting at 3500 to 4000rpm as your accelerating, either up to speed or up a hill, hills are great as they will impart good load on the engine and facilitate correct level of sustained load on the engine to seat critical elements like piston rings, bearings, etc, combined with the higher revs will do a good job of this.

5. last stages (4500 rpm)

- 200km same max speed 110kph

3/4 throttle majority when accelerating (still not from a dead stop but as explained above) but using up to 4500rpm again only possible by manually flicking lever, on hills or inclines I use these as an opportunity to hold the load for longer, like accelerating in 3rd gear from about 60km to 105kph or so at 3/4 throttle etc then changing to top and finding next bit of suitable road to repeat this. In my last picture of the 83km trip I did this acceleration procedure about a dozen times? or probably more.

To know you have done a good of fair job your exhaust system should be blue/ brown in color from the end of the catalytic converter to the start of the big muffler opposite the petrol tank. This basically means you have made enough heat and worked your engine to an acceptable level to allow a proper break in.

**me personally I change my own oil and only use Mobil 1 5w-50 grade, after 1000km running on factory oil (semi synthetic) I will dump it and the oil filter as its done its job, the Mobil or similar quality has far great level of protection from my experience and after break in I am focused on reducing as much wear as possible not promoting it, I use 50 weight on the high temp end as it is a thicker viscosity when warm and it provides far lower wear and far great protection of the engine in hard conditions for a documented reduction is metal inclusions in oil analysis between services (engine not getting eaten up! to save .1lt per 100km!) 30 weight hot oils like factory prescribe are too thin and while giving marginally better fuel consumption they come at a cost, greater engine wear and tear. I will post up my economy figures on Mobil 1 5w-50 for anyone concerned on interested on its effect of the factory filled oil, I doubt there will be any difference here.**

After you have reached 1000km and progressive step up of load and revs the engine should be happy enough to accept some full throttle applications, again I would limit the use of this from a dead stand still as your still breaking it other parts of the car like the gearbox, differentials all joints and bearings. I think if you employ this or another break in procedure you will have a better overall car that should return great economy and power, but also other drive line parts will be long lasting.

The idea behind it all is no matter how good parts are machined/manufactured (I am a mechanical engineer and also a machinist by trade) there will always be a basic mismatch of elements be it a simple ball bearing running in a race or a something more complex like a piston ring in a bore, there are literally thousands of such interfaces in your car and all of these need to be given time to "find their own place" as a mating part to another.

Basic stuff like the rear diff on my 16km drive at 80kph back home from my local dealer was running quite warm for such a short journey (this is due to stuff like seals and gears generating excess heat from rubbing various high spots etc and thus developing heat) these things settle down allot over time but if you give excess load to these items before they have a chance to settle it then they wear funny as a result. I dont want to worry anyone who has not had the opportunity to do this in such an anal way as id do all of my mechanical items but its just a thing if you have the opportunity to do then it can be shown to provide positive effects in terms of longevity, efficiency, and basic power output as well.

For those who have taken time to read this and think oh I missed out on doing that or cant do it due to various practical restrictions please don't feel bad, i have had many company cars that I TOTALLY RAPED from brand new (full load full revs from dealership door!) and they all survived a total flogging (some I owned to 220,000km's)... economy I never really monitored though nor was concerned about long term quality of car but I'd say its probably all marginal at end of the day, however there is benefits to be had if you can do so. Good luck and enjoy your Klugers :D I'll post up some more stuff as I get along with mine .... IF I can stop driving it and staring at it when parked haha

[RICE RACING]

Once I run in my car I will use my $30k Race Logic VBOX3 analysis gear to verify the cars basic performance parameters 0-100kph 0-400m time/speed and also 80-120 time... just to get an idea of Toyota claims and see how they stack up to reality.

I am one of the few people in Australia to use this top end spec of the VBOX, most magazine testers use a lower grade unit (like Wheels and the numerous other publications in print and on-line), will also log the air fuel ratio as well.

Mines the AWD model so figures I found to date (tested on a race logic equipment were, http://www.drive.com.au/Editorial/ArticleD...ArticleID=45916

0-100kph = 8.4 seconds

0-400m = 16.7 @ 136kph

Done as below: (of above link)

"There's only one way to accurately determine exactly how fast - or slow - a car is.

Each of Drive's 2007 Car of the Year finalists was subjected to independent performance testing in a controlled environment using a Racelogic Drift Box.

GPS satellite-based measurements included a standard 0-100km/h test and a 0-400m dash.

The figures give an indication of a vehicle's standing start acceleration and how it compares to other vehicles in its category.

All testing was conducted in a controlled environment. The 0-100km/h testing was conducted on a flat piece of race track at the Broadford State Motorcycle Sports Complex.

The 0-400m testing was conducted on an undulating piece of track at the same complex.

Each car was tested by the same driver on the same day, ensuring each vehicle underwent the same test. Cars with an automatic transmission were left in "D" (drive) and the accelerator floored from rest, just as average drivers would do.

Weather for the day of testing was warm (hovering around 30 degrees Celcius)."

*** I will run my tests on a total flat test track :) and in winter time so IF my engine is run in correctly I should obliterate the above recorded figure for the KX-S AWD model ***

[RICE RACING]

http://www.sportwing.premiersitecreator.co...893.htm#image_1

^ Anyone know if these will match my blue? ...... look like a good idea and they kinda break up the big panel effect of the doors

[RICE RACING]

Well just found supply of Mobil 1 0W-40 at wholesale in Melbourne (no way am I paying extortion prices in retail outlets).

Some good reading here http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml

Also ordered the SST to properly undo and do up the oil filter assembly from the engine block ($41.05) after I provided them with a picture of it and part number

She will get new full synthetic oil and filter and all be good next week :D

Edited June 11, 2008 by RICE RACING

[Blackkluger]

Hi there, since you have a VBOX, when that shows your doing 100ks, whats the speedo showing?

With synthetic oils, once you change to it, you cant go back is this right? Will it help the engine performance or what will it do?

[RICE RACING]

Hi there, since you have a VBOX, when that shows your doing 100ks, whats the speedo showing?

With synthetic oils, once you change to it, you cant go back is this right? Will it help the engine performance or what will it do?

I will set this up and take a photo of the output when I do the acceleration tests, in traffic I seem to be on par with other cars but the VBOX3 will give iron clad "certified" proof of the actual speed :D ...... seems to be close, we will see what my feelings are like compared to the hard reality hahaha.

Will get on this next week OR if I get excited I might try it on Friday :)

On the engine oil, I don't think this is the case in modern engines, they don't really use old cork gaskets anymore (like an old 60 series landcruiser etc) that used to get conditioned to certain oil types over time so I would not think there will be any issues at all to do with sudden leaks that will pop up etc. So far as bearings and rings go, there is zero effect between changing oil types at any time in the engines life cycle *in my books*

[Taka]

Have you tow your FD yet?

I am living in an unit and do not have space for a lightweight trailer, so I had to hire one that is 650kg. The car is nearly 1300kg and it is just ok to tow....

I will try to get some oil change every 5000km. So the Toyota is semi synthetic... how much do I need for oil change again?

[RICE RACING]

Have you tow your FD yet?

I am living in an unit and do not have space for a lightweight trailer, so I had to hire one that is 650kg. The car is nearly 1300kg and it is just ok to tow....

I will try to get some oil change every 5000km. So the Toyota is semi synthetic... how much do I need for oil change again?

No I am in process of purchasing a trailer to suit the FD... IF this proves too difficult or costly I may make my own. SO now towing as yet. Yeah Toyota use a semi synthetic oil (depending on dealer, each has their own contracts with various suppliers, Valvoline, Castrol or Mobil etc) none will use full synthetic of the grade like 0W-40 as its simply far too costly for them (cant cover it in $150 fixed price and pay for shop hourly rate *NOT LABOR COSTS!* read below! *).

As an idea @ wholesale you need $80 ~ $100 worth of oil alone to do the change inc filter amount (6.1 liters) without filter I think its 5.7lt and totally dry engine its around 7lt or so...

* The oil any dealer will use will only cost them about $20 per 6lt !!! add a $6 filter on top and the KENTS are making a fortune each time you take the car in ($112 profit!!!) to pay an apprentice $12 for 1 hours work to change your oil and to TRASH your car around the block "to test it"

So I look at it this way, I buy the BEST oil money can buy, take much more care than any apprentice will working on my own car and do the job properly and it costs me about $50 LESS than if I went to my dealer + my car does not get FLOGGED by some young KENT in the name of a "test drive"

(Below is e-mail today from a company I enquired about the tool to remove the oil filter body assembly and the reply they gave me RE new part number etc... my local dealer is giving me one for $41.05 and I am picking it up tomorrow, but this is the go for anyone else interested or if they want to hit up their local dealer wanting this part and getting a crap answer from the spares department

Peter.Rickard@servicesolutions.spx.com

Hi Peter,

Part number 09228-06501 has been discontinued.

It has been replaced by 09228-06500-02

65MM across flats, 14 flats.

We don't have this part in stock, but can get one from the US in about 3 - 4 weeks from order.

Price including delivery and GST would be $36.56, but would need to be pre-pay as you don't have an account with us.

Normally, cash sales would have to exceed $250.00, but I can make a bit of an exception!

Curiously, we have the same product under a different part number, that is in stock ex-MEL, but three times the price.

So if you have to have one now, it would cost $66.30 incl. delivery & GST.

Any questions, don't hesitate to email me.

Thanks,

Pete.

Edited June 12, 2008 by RICE RACING

[RICE RACING]

OK VBOX3 figures

First is of a speed check, 100kph on speed = about 96km actual speed on my KX-S AWD Klugie

Next I COULD NOT RESIST! 0-100kph test had to see if I broke in engine good and if it has advertised power

** My Kluger had well over 1/2 tank of fuel, has tow bar and extras that makes it heavier than normal ** This was my first attempt. Showing test road start, and pull up after end of test and photo of figure

8.07 seconds ! 0-100kph distance covered 128.89 meters

I will do my service now and put in the new Mobil 1 0W-40 oil and also let the tank go down to a 1/4 and remove all extra crap out of the vehicle :P

I have no doubt it will crack a 7 sec 0-100 time! which is better than the other VBOX official test figure, lol is a heap better right now :D

Looks like my break in method has worked though, not used one ounce of oil and with driving like a total maniac now and a crap load of idling (listening to all injectors and bearings with my Automotive stethoscope) and 1st gear crawling around the farm for 10km its at 11.6lt per 100km! I cant believe it :o

[RICE RACING]

Here is a link to USA test of AWD model

http://www.motortrend.com/oftheyear/suv/11...highlander.html

7.3 sec 60mph! (I ran to 100kph which is 62.15mph) but 15.7 and 141kph for 403m or 1/4 mile is very impressive !

I will do this after a service and a few more km on it ...

Edited June 12, 2008 by RICE RACING

[holmesie]

Nice work there RR, thanks for sharing the results - I won't need to break out my cheap & nasty GTech now, I'll just show the doubters your pics

Cheers

[CroToy]

I took it easy on engine and brakes for first 1000 km................

After that period it got flogged hard time and returned with zero oil consumption.

10K service i changed to full sintetic Repsol Competition 5-40 and it works like dream.............revs up smoother and averages 11l/100km.

8 sec 0-100 ? Easy..................

[mrbishi]

Nice info there RR.

Cant wait to get some more up to date figures on the 0-100 and 400m test.

I figure then that if you had a competent driver, like yourself, you would possibly be able to give a Porsche Cayenne or turbo Territory a very good run for their money, if not a licking in the 0-100 stakes. Sounds like it would give a respectable showing in standing 400m as well.

No wonder its so easy to blow most people away at the lights. Especially using the wholeshot technique, it just grips and goes :D