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24
FUEL WARNING MESSAGE
I had better finish off my saga because it definitely didn't end with the installation of the new (2nd hand) pump. I tested the new pump before installation and it worked fine. I installed the pump and reinstalled the tank. Knowing that the sub tank was full and the main tank was near empty, I expected the turning on of the ignition would have got the pump pumping. It didn't. I remove the relay that operates the sub-tank pump and it tested ok. I eventually worked out that there was no earth connection to the relay coil. There was +12V to socket for the other side of the relay coil and +12V at the terminal socket which connects to the pump when the relay closes. I connected a temporary earth to the earth side of the coil (using a fine piece of telephone cable wire which can be slipped into the socket before the relay is reinstalled) and the pump ran. I had previously identified this problem but concluded that the computer must control both the + side and the earth side of the relay coil, although I couldn't see why it would do this. My problem was that the the pump problem didn't always occur. If the gauge got to below a quarter and the fuel light didn't begin flashing, I could assume that the sub tank was near empty. But, sometimes the fuel light would commence flashing once the gauge got to 1/4 full and I knew that I had about 40km to go before empty. So, the new pump was behaving like the old pump and the problem must not be the pump. Fed up, I removed the relay, made up 4 short (4") leads with a spade on one end and a spade socket on the other end and connected the relay remotely. This then allowed me to connect another wire to the earth lead for the relay and take it to earth via a waterproof switch. If and when the fuel light starts flashing again, I will stop and switch on the switch to pump the contents of the sub-tank into the main tank. On reflection, this has probably been my problem all along and there was probably nothing wrong with the original pump (I convinced myself after reading about all the others who had had this problem that the electrical connection in the main tank had become high resistance and melted the fitting). I have not heard of anyone else who has diagnosed this to be the problem. I will post a photo of my fix later. -
24
FUEL WARNING MESSAGE
I have a hoist so height wasn't an issue. But, if you run the rear wheels up onto ramps, you shouldn't have a problem. Remember, it is a 2-man job - one to support the tank and the other to connect the various pipes. Take a few photos of the pipe layouts before you remove them. -
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FUEL WARNING MESSAGE
Geoff, Are you able to let me know how far / high you had to get your car into the air to successfully drop the tank? I guess my next step will depend on that distance. Hope everything goes well for you when you are tackling it. Thanks -
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Hilux 2017, 2.8 diesel dual cab - alternator
Do I need to update the alternator if I put a DCDC charger to charge auxillory battery? -
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toyota 700
Your starting problem could be engine timing .I had a no start problem and found that the engine had been apart and timed wrongly as there are2 marks on the internal gears so be carefull. Oil filters that will fit U10 are R2206P old ones but still available. Brake parts from local suppliers no problem and note that early UP10 had factory problems with the fuel pump not giving up enough fuel when engine under load. -
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'Please check the SD card' - Does anyone have the SD card files?
Hi team, I have ran into the same issue. Can I confirm where I should be placing these files within the SD folders? I can see a few .DAT format files however the name of the files doesn't exactly match what is currently on there. (e.g. this google drive folder contains EB, RG, SS & MM where as the folder on my SD has DAT files named ascbin, dtv_area, EMAP, MAPINFO... any ideas? Please note this is a 2010 Toyota Prius Synergy, industry model code DAA-ZVW30. Any help you can offer would be amazing! EDIT: I'm based in New Zealand if this affects filenames etc, which I assume it likely will. -
1
Adding cruise control to a 2008 Ascent Hatch
Hi Tony, You will need to make your own harness, with wire and corrugated tubing, you can buy at any auto shop. If there isn't a published wiring diagram, with colours, then I suggest you work out a colour scheme, so when you have the end of your harness you know which wire is which. As to the clutch switch, I've fitted a standard micro switch, on a home made bracket. The switch is wired in the normally open connection, as it is operated when the clutch is up. Note, the attached article is for my MGB brake switch replacement, but it will give you an idea about how to go about it. As to connecting to the ECU, if you do need to do it you only need to connect to the speed wire. If you have a tacho, then you could tap into the sense wire to it, using a quick splice connector, as shown, below. They are closed with a pair of pliers. Note that they come in different sizes, depending on the wire size. Herb Saga19 Brake switch.pdf -
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1
Adding cruise control to a 2008 Ascent Hatch
I know there is a heap of discussion out there on this topic but has anyone successfully added cruise when the wiring harness doesn't support it? I was a hoping to just buy the clock spring and cruise stalk and fit it, but mines a manual and there is no wiring to connect the clutch switch to. I've read about people running wiring to the ECU, but there weren't any clear guides for this that i could find. How do you actually tap into the ECU connector because the pictures I've seen look like it wouldn't be easy to add anything to it? I gave up after seeing there was no clutch switch cabling to wire up to so I don't even know if the necessary cabling is between the clock spring and the ECU. Has anyone done this mod on a car that isn't pre-wired for it?
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