Jump to content


ported headers alone


Recommended Posts

you dont port match the header - the header should be larger than the exhaust port. use the gasket as your template, for those who are unsure about portng join some portin forums and read the basics.
Port the header to be a bit less than 1mm larger than the exhaust port in the head (to help with reversion), then finish off with the flap wheel.

Learn to read...

Edited by CHA54
Link to comment
Share on other sites

you dont port match the header - the header should be larger than the exhaust port. use the gasket as your template, for those who are unsure about portng join some portin forums and read the basics.
Port the header to be a bit less than 1mm larger than the exhaust port in the head (to help with reversion), then finish off with the flap wheel.

Learn to read...

learn to port! match to gasket or you will create unnecessary turbulance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your both right in the aspect that it should be larger, but how large?? around 1mm to the exhaust ports sounds good to me, too large a port and you will drastically increase the turbulances due to a larger step change. I think CHA54 is saying that the gasket is too large in this instance compared to the exhaust ports....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you dont port match the header - the header should be larger than the exhaust port. use the gasket as your template, for those who are unsure about portng join some portin forums and read the basics.
Port the header to be a bit less than 1mm larger than the exhaust port in the head (to help with reversion), then finish off with the flap wheel.

Learn to read...

learn to port! match to gasket or you will create unnecessary turbulance.

Hahaha, dude, hence "learn to read". you're doing it again. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites


you dont port match the header - the header should be larger than the exhaust port. use the gasket as your template, for those who are unsure about portng join some portin forums and read the basics.
Port the header to be a bit less than 1mm larger than the exhaust port in the head (to help with reversion), then finish off with the flap wheel. [chicaboo: so it's going to be more than 1mm by this stage...]

Learn to read...

learn to port! match to gasket or you will create unnecessary turbulance.

Have you connected the dots yet?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

god, some of you are dumb. i shouldn't have to spell everything out, we all know about reducing the chances of flow reversal and the step helps scavenging - so your saying you will have the header and gasket different sizes - have a day off. now who's the silly one - who cant read. another point - your average installer wont know to centre the header and gasket and just rest it on the studs (i use drill bits to centre the bolt hole on the stud) before tightening, if you only enlarge by 1mm................. think about the rest of the sentence or do i have to fill all the gaps :lol:

sorry better stick to the threads you can handle - which cai should i get, its been 2 threads since someone asked ;)

we can all be smart sheilas.

Edited by AE102
Link to comment
Share on other sites

god, some of you are dumb. i shouldn't have to spell everything out, we all know about reducing the chances of flow reversal and the step helps scavenging - so your saying you will have the header and gasket different sizes - have a day off. now who's the silly one - who cant read. another point - your average installer wont know to centre the header and gasket and just rest it on the studs (i use drill bits to centre the bolt) if you only enlarge by 1mm................. think about the rest of the sentence or do i have to fill all the gaps :lol:

sorry better stick to the threads you can handle - which cai should i get, its been 2 threads since someone asked ;)

we can all be smart sheilas.

CHA54 is saying to take it out 1mm over with the die grinder and then finish it off with something else to get a tidier job. So it will be more than 1mm larger than the port when finished! How much so I don't farken know? But if you look at the photo provided on the previous page, you only have less than ~2mm before you meet the gasket...

While you're handing out advice, I think you should stick to being a dumb arsehole, since you're really good at it. Go back and RTFM on people skills...

Gav.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I actually turn up alloy sleeves to go between the stud and the flange hole to perfectly center the header on the engine...

I install them in the two outermost bolt holes, works a treat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

god, some of you are dumb. i shouldn't have to spell everything out, we all know about reducing the chances of flow reversal and the step helps scavenging - so your saying you will have the header and gasket different sizes - have a day off. now who's the silly one - who cant read. another point - your average installer wont know to centre the header and gasket and just rest it on the studs (i use drill bits to centre the bolt) if you only enlarge by 1mm................. think about the rest of the sentence or do i have to fill all the gaps :lol:

sorry better stick to the threads you can handle - which cai should i get, its been 2 threads since someone asked ;)

we can all be smart sheilas.

CHA54 is saying to take it out 1mm over with the die grinder and then finish it off with something else to get a tidier job. So it will be more than 1mm larger than the port when finished! How much so I don't farken know? But if you look at the photo provided on the previous page, you only have less than ~2mm before you meet the gasket...

While you're handing out advice, I think you should stick to being a dumb arsehole, since you're really good at it. Go back and RTFM on people skills...

Gav.

bit more polite than your original quote. as you clearly dont know what your taking about you should GTFO as you so eliquintely put it. put your e warrior pants back under your trousers - and maybe you should rtfm on porting as you have made youreslf look very stupid when challenging someone who does these and DOES know what he's talking about.

you can always tell an aussie - you just cant tell him much! i think that saying applies to the likes of you.

by all means carry on with your inferior ported header - knowledge is horse power!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright, I will put it back. FFS, GTFO! I had removed those acronyms since I thought I was getting mud on my hands and lowering myself to your ignorant dumb fark level.

You've been a total arsehole since you're first post in this thread. And out of the ppl who have tried to illustrate to you that CHA54 [who does know how to port, I've never claimed to know how to port you farken turd] was suggesting a 2 part process for the porting - the first part being roughly taking it out 1mm with the die grinder, and then following up with a flap wheel - you've taken the greatest objection to me, and insulting me with my CAI comments [something I do know something about you POS]. I guess I did the best job at showing that you're a dickhead? Happy to oblige. :)

Now to reiterate for everyone reading this. AE102 has farked up by missing that CHA54 said 1mm + [PLUS, EXTRA, MORE, IN ADDITION TO] finishing off with the flap wheel [you've got less than 2mm to work with now...], and is trying to save face by by having digs at me and insulting my choice in clothing, and now all of Australia... Why don't you go fark off back to your UK.TOCAU and have digs at that guy with the nitrous in his car. That's your bag isn't it? FFS, you're splitting hairs over 1.5mm and 2mm, and making yourself out to be some authority on many things in the process... Tell me how many kW are in that last 0.5mm, assuming it's there to be used even? The whole porting process only yields 3-4kW ATW on the CES dyno...

I'm really sorry you are such a douché, and I hope the other Australians don't liken you to your countrymen as you have done with me/us.

Gav.

Listen to my friend Nic Cage.

the-original-your-argument-is-invalid-photoshop-18258-1250715834-10.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sheesh!! I take a few days off this forum and all the keyboard warriors come out in force LOL

Everyone back off and take a long hard look at what you post up. Or someone will be getting a holiday from here.....

It's a shame that there are so many on here who seem to know it all and are trying to reinvent the wheel so to speak!!

Ported headers have been around since I got mine done waaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyy back in late 05. Old news for those thinking it is something new LOL

You will get a small increase in peak power(3-4ish kw like Gav said) but will get a huge increase in low to mid range torque and drivability which is what the 2ZZ lacks. It will make your car soooooooo much nicer to drive as a daily driver in peak hour traffic as you won't need to rev the engine as hard in each gear before changing up and also less changes as the engine does become more tractable at lower rpm in taller gears.

FYI regarding Kw increases on a CAI..... i got a 9kw increase with cat back exhaust, then added a CAI and netted another 6kw, then added the headers and got a nats turd under 4kw peak power increase but the torque hole between 4-6k is almost non existant and the engine makes more power right through the rev range which also makes the transition onto lift a lot less of a jump.

Play nice kids or the "red" button may come into play!!

Cheers

SB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I actually turn up alloy sleeves to go between the stud and the flange hole to perfectly center the header on the engine...

I install them in the two outermost bolt holes, works a treat.

Wat? Do U take em out after u've tightened the others? They're drilled bigger so the flange can expand under heat and not crack. Every car is like it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What do you think is going to crack? the 2zz flange?? Have you looked at the flange thickness at all?

The first set I did have been on a daily driven car that has done 27,000km over the last 3 years, daily driven... So a ton of heat cycles and no cracking problems...

The headers are a bitch to get back off the engine after 10,000 or so km, but they're nicely centered.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The flange def won't crack. Sorry, I meant warp. The flange can warp wen it strongly needs to expand and can't. That's why every car manifacturer uses a couple of small inner holes to hold it and bigger outer holes to allow expansion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the hole in the gasket is actually much larger than the exhaust port on the head...

It's best to take a stencil of your actual exhaust ports and work from that.

much larger??

interesting.... would be good to get a comparison... anyone with a spare set of headers.... looking at you dyslexik

take pics of the stock headers or ported ones?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership