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Mazda sp23 dyno sheets

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Chompies Proficient

Chompies

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NOOO!! I WILL NEVER BELIEVE IT!!!!!

:( :( :(

have only read the first page ...but 87FW kW ??? damn thats gotta hurt :(

as one person even commented on their forums. even the conquest/ascents put out those figures. and this was a SP23!!!! :(

Yeah, that was me... I'm pretty annoyed at this result. I'm hoping that his dyno run was stuffed up... :angry::angry::angry:

Edited by Chompies
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xoom Grand Master

xoom

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i think it should be capable of about 90 but i dont think it will be able to get any higher than 95.....

Chompies i know ur organising a dyno day so please do this on a dyno dynamics in shoot out mode... My reasoning for this is shootout mode does not let u tweek the settings....

Well u ask what will tweeking the settings do .... Well with tweeked settings my stivo put out 128kw @ wheels stock.... so thats 20kw more than under standardised shoot out mode so id be curious with the guys claiming over 100kw@w stock how this was achieved as .... Actually i know dont put the heat sensor in the right place as this also gives higher readings .... Dyno places do this especially if they are doing mods for u to fool u into thinking wow look at the gains from the mods i just did....

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Chompies Proficient

Chompies

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i think it should be capable of about 90 but i dont think it will be able to get any higher than 95.....

Chompies i know ur organising a dyno day so please do this on a dyno dynamics in shoot out mode... My reasoning for this is shootout mode does not let u tweek the settings....

Well u ask what will tweeking the settings do .... Well with tweeked settings my stivo put out 128kw @ wheels stock.... so thats 20kw more than under standardised shoot out mode so id be curious with the guys claiming over 100kw@w stock how this was achieved as .... Actually i know dont put the heat sensor in the right place as this also gives higher readings .... Dyno places do this especially if they are doing mods for u to fool u into thinking wow look at the gains from the mods i just did....

IZZ-FE is organising the dyno day.. I'll make sure we go for shootout mode

How does this heat sensor thingy work.. ? I've never been to a dyno before

I HOPE my car pulls at least 90kW ATW, or else I'll cry... :unsure:

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xoom Grand Master

xoom

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what it is chompy is in order to standardise the dyno the heat and humidity being measure by a sensor plays a part in the calculation of the power curve.....

The reasoning for this is u cannot compare a dyno done in 15 degree cool temperatures to a dyno done in 30+ degree heat with humid conditions.

So what dyno places used to do is when they do a before dyno the place the sensor and the edge of the engine bay where its cooler and run a dyno run so because the sensor is cooler it does not compensate so much .... Then they put ur mod on e.g. a CAI then the put the sensor nice and close to ur engine where its nice n hot n so when u do ur run it notices that its really hot and so it adjusts the read out accordingly as the logic is if the engine performs like this under this much heat it would perform better under normal conditions thus indicating more power.....

Guys please confirm for me but last time when i ran on the dyno the sensor was actually on the side of the dyno screen equipment stuck nice and firmly thus getting a true reading for temps in the workshop and humidity where as previously u could move the sensor around ?

Chompies as indicated on the mazda forum u would expect 75& to 85% at best to make it out to ur wheels.... i.e. 86kw to 97kw so anything in that range would be acceptable any higher and id question the readouts.

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Chompies Proficient

Chompies

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what it is chompy is in order to standardise the dyno the heat and humidity being measure by a sensor plays a part in the calculation of the power curve.....

The reasoning for this is u cannot compare a dyno done in 15 degree cool temperatures to a dyno done in 30+ degree heat with humid conditions.

So what dyno places used to do is when they do a before dyno the place the sensor and the edge of the engine bay where its cooler and run a dyno run so because the sensor is cooler it does not compensate so much .... Then they put ur mod on e.g. a CAI then the put the sensor nice and close to ur engine where its nice n hot n so when u do ur run it notices that its really hot and so it adjusts the read out accordingly as the logic is if the engine performs like this under this much heat it would perform better under normal conditions thus indicating more power.....

Guys please confirm for me but last time when i ran on the dyno the sensor was actually on the side of the dyno screen equipment stuck nice and firmly thus getting a true reading for temps in the workshop and humidity where as previously u could move the sensor around ?

Chompies as indicated on the mazda forum u would expect 75& to 85% at best to make it out to ur wheels.... i.e. 86kw to 97kw so anything in that range would be acceptable any higher and id question the readouts.

okies, cool.. thanks for the explanation xoom! looks like i better remember where they put the sensor, for future reference when i mod the car

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xoom Grand Master

xoom

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okies, cool.. thanks for the explanation xoom!  looks like i better remember where they put the sensor, for future reference when i mod the car

With a lot of the newer dyno setup's that i have seen the sensor has been bolted to the side of the computer monitor.... Im sure its only the older ones where they could move it around......

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oz_viking Grand Master

oz_viking

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Chompies as indicated on the mazda forum u would expect 75& to 85% at best to make it out to ur wheels.... i.e. 86kw to 97kw so anything in that range would be acceptable any higher and id question the readouts.

Bill, I think the bare minimum drivetrain loss on a FWD is in the order of 30% and on 4wd's around 40% or more. Maybe in exceptional cases the loss is only 25%, so the BEST you could expect would be 86kW stock. Although technically, that car was dynoed with a K&N panel filter which may have even given him a few kW atw. Any more than this is questionable, IMHO.

PS. Sucked in SP23 owners, looks like Mazda ownz joo!!

Edited by oz_viking
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ZEEROLLA Grand Master

ZEEROLLA

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Chompies as indicated on the mazda forum u would expect 75& to 85% at best to make it out to ur wheels.... i.e. 86kw to 97kw so anything in that range would be acceptable any higher and id question the readouts.

Bill, I think the bare minimum drivetrain loss on a FWD is in the order of 30% and on 4wd's around 40% or more. Maybe in exceptional cases the loss is only 25%, so the BEST you could expect would be 86kW stock. Although technically, that car was dynoed with a K&N panel filter which may have even given him a few kW atw. Any more than this is questionable, IMHO.

PS. Sucked in SP23 owners, looks like Mazda ownz joo!!

If its 30% loss for FWD then my Stivo will have approx 162kw @ flywheel with TRD CAI alone... Not to mention Dylan's will have 164kw @ flywheel STOCK and Dave's will have around 182kw!!! :o :unsure: I think 20-25% loss is more accurate for FWD and RWD, 30-40% for AWD.

Edited by ZEEROLLA
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oz_viking Grand Master

oz_viking

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Possibly, but don't forget there's going to be a huge discrepancy in dyno readings due to shoddy calibration, differences in modes etc. My one dyno run to date indicated 107kw atw, which with a flywheel estimate of 145kw (+CAI) equates to drivetrain loss of about 26%.

It's not hard to see how an inaccurate dyno might indicate greater loss. Eg. a reading of 101.5 kw would suggest 30% loss, and is only 5% different to the 'actual' output. The trouble is, without an engine dyno and chassis dyno comparison under controlled conditions, you would never be able to work out actual drivetrain loss.

Phew, how about we compromise on 25% for FWD (or at least that seems about right for the Sportivo).

Edited by oz_viking
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