jaay

Jaay's AE112 Corolla

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Hi All,

This is my Silver 1999 Toyota Corolla AE112R Conquest.

Bought her stock, besides the weird looking rims that the previous owner had.

Then couple months after I had her, I decided to get an exhaust. worst one ive had so far. So doggy and ugly. Then I changed it about 2 months ago. These are the only photos I had at the time.

IMG_0154.jpg

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Mods include:

JIC Magic FLT-TAR Coilovers 7/5KG

Koya AE-TEK 15x8 +15

Matt Black Corolla Sportivo Rims

Enkei RPF1 15x7 +35

AE112 Levin Front Lip

AE112 Sportivo Spoiler Risers

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IMAG0212.jpghttp://i1150.photobucket.com/albums/o606/jmalunec/IMAG0513_zps24ab7bef.jpg%20

IMAG0655_zps49b9aca6.jpg

IMAG0654_zps5c47cdc2.jpg

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looks good mate , a set of XXR wheels and some lowered coils will set her right off!

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thanks for the comment mick!

ahha man seriously i cant wait till i do those two things!

im soo gee'd bro! :D

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That exhaust tip makes it look so much more aggressive! Haha good stuff. Rims and coils would definitely be awesome. Drove an AE112R (silver too) on my Ls and Ps; loved driving it!

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haha thanks man!

yeah it is a good car i got to admit, its done me well so far with 205,000kms on the clock!

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Love the car mate! AE1xx's are so underrated though... lower it and some nice wheels will make it look tops, looking forward to it mate....

...then put in a 2ZZ or 20 valve.. :ninja: haha

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Haha yeah true ay!

Is it possible to drop a 20v in it? Im reffering to the law like emissions or whatever it is.. Because if i can do it, ill blow this motor which gives me an excuss to drop a 20v in it! Haha nah jokes the 7 afe will do...for now :D muaaha

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Blacktop 20 valver would be legal... :D

AFAIK: motor model cannot be older than the car and must meet EPA emissions blah blah... therefore AE111 blacktop will work.

Also, 1.8 to a 1.6 wont require an engineers cert :ninja:

Edited by 4ABHGE

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Haha makes me think now... :P

I wonder if anyone has done it before? It would be a mad sleeper!

But imgine the 2zz...nomnomnom

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Looks good! I did the grille cut out and mesh job too. Then threw it away because it looked tacky haha.

Over in Europe they have 1ZZFE engines in the E11 G6R 3 door hatch.

Then in North America, South Africa, New Zealand and Asia they had the AE110/AE111 GT sedan with 20v Blacktop standard with Levin interior etc.

So you're better off doing the Blacktop 20v. But to be different for sure do the 2ZZ.

If you are interested in coilovers get onto twincam.org.au and PM Bazda or http://forum.twincam...acing-products/.

Otherwise N1 Coilovers from http://www.isc-coilo.../coilovers.html

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Looks good! I did the grille cut out and mesh job too. Then threw it away because it looked tacky haha.

Over in Europe they have 1ZZFE engines in the E11 G6R 3 door hatch.

Then in North America, South Africa, New Zealand and Asia they had the AE110/AE111 GT sedan with 20v Blacktop standard with Levin interior etc.

Bit mixed up there, North America got the 1ZZ from the very beginning (initially without VVTi which got added at the facelift), Europe stayed with the A-series until 1999 before upgrading to the 1ZZ.

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hahah yeah my grille is so dodgy!
but i went to the wreckers yesterday and picked up another grille for the car!
so i sanded it back, some plastic primer, some paint and clear coat!
and the outcome....
(attached photos)

and also painted the toyota badge black smile.png

I will wait till the engine blows first! haha then i will make my plans to do a blacktop conversion! wink.png

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if you replace the motor keep the 7AFE bottom end and run a 4AGE 20V head...

will push some nice power probably around 120kw atw, munch any honda you see!

oh and the coilovers I have, you can lower the car enough so it will chew up all your inner guard and pump it out.

in other words... REALLY GODDAMN LOW!

in the pics of my car, it has about another 7 - 8cms or so to go lower, my rails were around 11cms off the ground.. also the front struts come with camber tops so you can tuck it in nicely, just get some camber bolts for the rears from pedders

Edited by fillit

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if you replace the motor keep the 7AFE bottom end and run a 4AGE 20V head...

will push some nice power probably around 120kw atw, munch any honda you see!

oh and the coilovers I have, you can lower the car enough so it will chew up all your inner guard and pump it out.

in other words... REALLY GODDAMN LOW!

in the pics of my car, it has about another 7 - 8cms or so to go lower, my rails were around 11cms off the ground.. also the front struts come with camber tops so you can tuck it in nicely, just get some camber bolts for the rears from pedders

Are the camber bolts different for the rears in comparrison to yours and mine?

Ill pm you during this week, ive got good news ;) haha

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if you replace the motor keep the 7AFE bottom end and run a 4AGE 20V head...

will push some nice power probably around 120kw atw, munch any honda you see!

oh and the coilovers I have, you can lower the car enough so it will chew up all your inner guard and pump it out.

in other words... REALLY GODDAMN LOW!

in the pics of my car, it has about another 7 - 8cms or so to go lower, my rails were around 11cms off the ground.. also the front struts come with camber tops so you can tuck it in nicely, just get some camber bolts for the rears from pedders

Are the camber bolts different for the rears in comparrison to yours and mine?

Ill pm you during this week, ive got good news ;) haha

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If you get the mounts for the 1ZZ the motor will drop right in, just the wiring will be a b*tch and you will need to run an aftermarket ECU to save some headaches.

7AGE isnt the cheapest option, sure it gets you power but it isnt just a straight swap of the head, and depending how much money you throw into it will affect your power and reliability. Unless you are experienced or have knowledge of motors I wouldn't advise it.

20V would be the easiest swap with fitting the motor, and wiring. You will learn alot but it wont be overwhelming like the other conversions, also it will be a fair bit cheaper too :)

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Yeah ive read a few topics on the 7age and just comes down to liablity i guess. I wasnt a fan of the 7age imo. The BT would be the cheapest in a way and i think i would be the best option...But lets see where this car will take me first! :P Lol

There has been a few BT in the past that have gone for cheap. I remeber seeing one for like 600 or something? and i was like :o but something for that price there had to be something wrong with it!

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Update!

Thanks to Phill, (fillit) i have recieved JIC magic flt-tar coilovers!

Ill try and get these babies in by thursday or friday!! :D

post-27483-0-22916100-1340683790_thumb.j

post-27483-0-39850900-1340683797_thumb.j

thanks Phill!

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eheh thanks Justin!

these should be good! :D

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So.....today we got around installing the coilovers! biggrin.png

The difference in handling and steering is like.... ohmy.png

best investment for the car by far!

anyways, took us about 5 hours to do.. lol! our first time doing it but we managed!
it was pretty simple to do, and we didnt need to adjust the height or damper, thanks to fillit which was his previous coilovers biggrin.png
the ride is soooo bouncy. Even the slightest bump! i love it!

all that needs to be done is a wheel alignment tomorrow and a new rubber camber bar seal that attaches to the coilover as it split and was leaking grease sad.png (my fault!)

there was also another confusion (if anyone can help me out it would be great!)
On the stock suspension, the break line was attached to it. there was no other way to get them out besides taking out the line which ment we had to bleed it through after we finished but we didnt have time. so we used bolt cutters to cut what was holding it in place (no, dont worry not the line!) it was kinda like a bracket. And while we were looking at the coilovers there was no place for the break line to sit. So we left it hanging but its pretty stiff so it should be OK for now. thats the best i could explain, if only i took photos! If anyone has had this problem or knows what to do, please let me no!

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Looks great at that height man, cant wait for the rims! :D

How does she go with the coils in? :)

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thanks man!

yeah its a massive improvement, the steering is more responsive and lighter and handles like a beast.

i just have to get a wheel alignment done. ive booked it in a pedder today, $110 :S

but i also need camber bolts and a rear rubber camber bar seal while im there, if they have them.

but other than that its going good so far!

and yes the rims.... :spiteful:

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looking great jay,

nice to see them go to a good home.

$110 for a front/rear alignment is abit of a rip, front and rear shouldn't be much more than $70 - 80

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