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Posted (edited)

Has anyone done this to their sportivo, or know of anyone who has done it? Would like to know the difference/ opinions and whether or not it is worth it? Would be tuned as well and valves upgraded.

Also what would be an estimate for a mechanic to install the engine components??

Any information from personal experience would be great! :)

Thanks.

Sorry guys did a search and found some good info. But if there's anymore input would be greatly appreciated.

Edited by alexl8891

Posted

Has anyone done this to their sportivo, or know of anyone who has done it? Would like to know the difference/ opinions and whether or not it is worth it? Would be tuned as well and valves upgraded.

Also what would be an estimate for a mechanic to install the engine components??

Any information from personal experience would be great! :)

Thanks.

Sorry guys did a search and found some good info. But if there's anymore input would be greatly appreciated.

Is there any reason why you are going for an N/A build ? are u looking to enter a comp or series where N/A is a requirement?

The reason i ask is going the N/A path although will net u some good gains, in terms of $ per kw its a very expensive path to proceed down vs going force fed .... added is the fact that to take advantage of the limited increase in power ur gonna have to do some weight reduction as well ..... as our little sportivo is a bit of a fat ba$tard.

Thing is if u r gonna crack the engine open to do the head work for the stage 3 setup to take full advantage of that ur gonna have to rev it harder = more rev's = need to do the oil pump = more stress on everything. The reality is if u want ur beast to move ur gonna ride it out to 9K rpms or even more.

If you are however intent on proceeding down this path i would highly recommend getting in touch with Neil Trama as i think he has tinkered with 2zz's more than anyone in Aus that i am aware of.

http://www.neiltrama.com/

Posted

The head will need to be stripped, decked, cleaned, put back together. The tolerances checked, adjusted, checked adjusted, checked, adjusted, checked, adjusted, checked, adjusted, checked and so on. That will consume about 8 hours and about $400 in parts. Head removal and installation probably another 12 hours or so. So about $2k to pay someone to build the head.

As for the oil pump gears mentioend above by xoom, there are no cheap options here, only TODA (not toga) do the gears, and I would trust them over some no name brand (there is a thread on the subject).

So need to ask yourself, do you need to be able to rev to 9500rpm? If so then you'll also need the rods and pistons added to the list. What about the stgae 2 cams with stock valve train? There is only an issue with prolonged high rpm exposure. The stock valves can snap at the retainer, but I don't think that is linked directly to the Piper cams, but rather the poor design of the stock Toyota valves themselves. But as I said it's only really an issue with A LOT of lift, 10 times a day isn't a lot.

The cams also need to have VVT tuning to get the power out of them. So make sure you have something that can adjust that. If you do get the valves, make sure it's the flat faced valves as they increase the comrpession ratio slightly. This is important as you drop dynamic compression with the extra overlap with the Piper cams. you won't recover it all unless you replace the pistons, but something is better than nothing.

Posted

Nope no intention of entering a race or competition. Do intend to take it to the track for some fun but that would be the extent of it.

Just wanted to know everyone's thoughts and ideas before I jump into anything prematurely. I had no idea that installation of the mentioned engine components would be so time consuming and expensive... In my mind i thought it would be simply opening the head up and dropping the parts in then getting it tuned.

Did not factor in the oil pump either.

Taking in everything that both of you have said it really wouldn't be worth it for the gains and being a street driven corolla. Imagine having to rev it to 9500 to make the power lol.. It would be cool for a few days than it would be back to the same ol bitching and whining. The only more reasonable option would be what Dave has mentioned and that is dropping in the stage 2 cams + PFC...

Thanks for the input!


Posted

The head will need to be stripped, decked, cleaned, put back together. The tolerances checked, adjusted, checked adjusted, checked, adjusted, checked, adjusted, checked, adjusted, checked and so on. That will consume about 8 hours and about $400 in parts. Head removal and installation probably another 12 hours or so. So about $2k to pay someone to build the head.

As for the oil pump gears mentioend above by xoom, there are no cheap options here, only TODA (not toga) do the gears, and I would trust them over some no name brand (there is a thread on the subject).

So need to ask yourself, do you need to be able to rev to 9500rpm? If so then you'll also need the rods and pistons added to the list. What about the stgae 2 cams with stock valve train? There is only an issue with prolonged high rpm exposure. The stock valves can snap at the retainer, but I don't think that is linked directly to the Piper cams, but rather the poor design of the stock Toyota valves themselves. But as I said it's only really an issue with A LOT of lift, 10 times a day isn't a lot.

The cams also need to have VVT tuning to get the power out of them. So make sure you have something that can adjust that. If you do get the valves, make sure it's the flat faced valves as they increase the comrpession ratio slightly. This is important as you drop dynamic compression with the extra overlap with the Piper cams. you won't recover it all unless you replace the pistons, but something is better than nothing.

Did you do stage 2 cam upgrade yourself... or did you have to take it professionals, if so how much was it? Cheers.

Posted

The head will need to be stripped, decked, cleaned, put back together. The tolerances checked, adjusted, checked adjusted, checked, adjusted, checked, adjusted, checked, adjusted, checked and so on. That will consume about 8 hours and about $400 in parts. Head removal and installation probably another 12 hours or so. So about $2k to pay someone to build the head.

As for the oil pump gears mentioend above by xoom, there are no cheap options here, only TODA (not toga) do the gears, and I would trust them over some no name brand (there is a thread on the subject).

So need to ask yourself, do you need to be able to rev to 9500rpm? If so then you'll also need the rods and pistons added to the list. What about the stgae 2 cams with stock valve train? There is only an issue with prolonged high rpm exposure. The stock valves can snap at the retainer, but I don't think that is linked directly to the Piper cams, but rather the poor design of the stock Toyota valves themselves. But as I said it's only really an issue with A LOT of lift, 10 times a day isn't a lot.

The cams also need to have VVT tuning to get the power out of them. So make sure you have something that can adjust that. If you do get the valves, make sure it's the flat faced valves as they increase the comrpession ratio slightly. This is important as you drop dynamic compression with the extra overlap with the Piper cams. you won't recover it all unless you replace the pistons, but something is better than nothing.

Did you do stage 2 cam upgrade yourself... or did you have to take it professionals, if so how much was it? Cheers.

He is a professional....

Posted

The head will need to be stripped, decked, cleaned, put back together. The tolerances checked, adjusted, checked adjusted, checked, adjusted, checked, adjusted, checked, adjusted, checked and so on. That will consume about 8 hours and about $400 in parts. Head removal and installation probably another 12 hours or so. So about $2k to pay someone to build the head.

As for the oil pump gears mentioend above by xoom, there are no cheap options here, only TODA (not toga) do the gears, and I would trust them over some no name brand (there is a thread on the subject).

So need to ask yourself, do you need to be able to rev to 9500rpm? If so then you'll also need the rods and pistons added to the list. What about the stgae 2 cams with stock valve train? There is only an issue with prolonged high rpm exposure. The stock valves can snap at the retainer, but I don't think that is linked directly to the Piper cams, but rather the poor design of the stock Toyota valves themselves. But as I said it's only really an issue with A LOT of lift, 10 times a day isn't a lot.

The cams also need to have VVT tuning to get the power out of them. So make sure you have something that can adjust that. If you do get the valves, make sure it's the flat faced valves as they increase the comrpession ratio slightly. This is important as you drop dynamic compression with the extra overlap with the Piper cams. you won't recover it all unless you replace the pistons, but something is better than nothing.

Did you do stage 2 cam upgrade yourself... or did you have to take it professionals, if so how much was it? Cheers.

Did it myself. The camshafts themselves are usually pretty close to each other, the adjusting is done more for so for the valves and rockers. But you still need to check the clearances after changing the camshafts. The hardest part is changing the VVT gear.

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