Pod filter problems

[justablacksportivo]

Hey guys so today I did an install for a custom intake system. Was around 140 bucks. all it is, is some pipes and rubber hoses and a pod filter and I expected it to work. However, this happened:

 

The engine idles so poorly and sputters and recovers itself from almost stalling for no reason 

 

When I start the car, I'd have my foot PLANTED to the floor and absolutely nothing will happen. It just accelerates like a snail and then after a while it drives normal-ish

 

Low end power is super **** but when lift kicks in it kicks in hard. I guess thats what the pod is meant to do but I don't think it's meant to do any of the earlier things I've mentioned. 

 

 

SIDENOTE: I've had to tighten the throttle cable just the slightest amount so that it can give itself gas and not die when it idles. Has anyone had any similar issues? Or have I totally ****** up in some stupid way? 

 

Thanks 

 

[Hiro]

What size piping did you use?  Does it retain the original MAF sensor?

[Squalled]

Do you have any pictures of your intake setup? Are there any splits in the hoses for the intake or surrounding the throttle body or intake manifold?

Did you happen to clean your MAF sensor as well?

How does it idle? Do the revs climb than fall and repeat that constantly?

[ben yip]

Looks like the MAF is not in a good position, or the tubing is too big. In 1zz, 3 inch tubing requires a retune of ECU.

[justablacksportivo]

UPDATE: I have since reverted back to the stock setup.

There were no leaks I could find, and I cleaned the MAF with special MAF sensor cleaner. It still did idle quite rough. The pipe was 3 inches in diameter and the MAF sensor was oriented correctly. The revs would climb and drop and repeat that cycle over and over again. 

It was also the Original MAF sensor 

Here are photos of the parts I used:

Note - the 2.75in to 3in hose didn't fit on the throttle body so I had to use a regular 3in PVC Hose 

 

I also used hose clamps even though there are no pics of them below hahaha

[Squalled]

5 minutes ago, justablacksportivo said:

UPDATE: I have since reverted back to the stock setup.

There were no leaks I could find, and I cleaned the MAF with special MAF sensor cleaner. It still did idle quite rough. The pipe was 3 inches in diameter and the MAF sensor was oriented correctly. The revs would climb and drop and repeat that cycle over and over again. 

It was also the Original MAF sensor 

Here are photos of the parts I used:

Note - the 2.75in to 3in hose didn't fit on the throttle body so I had to use a regular 3in PVC Hose 

 

I also used hose clamps even though there are no pics of them below hahaha

"The pipe was 3 inches in diameter". That's the issue. Although you can run a 3" intake on the 2ZZ, to run on the stock ECU and/or piggy back systems it needs to have a reducer at the MAF of 2.75" otherwise you get issues to what you were experiencing.

I run a 3" intake but it has a 2.75" reducer at the MAF so there are no issues. To run a full 3", as Ben said you need to get an aftermarket ECU.

[justablacksportivo]

4 hours ago, Squalled said:

"The pipe was 3 inches in diameter". That's the issue. Although you can run a 3" intake on the 2ZZ, to run on the stock ECU and/or piggy back systems it needs to have a reducer at the MAF of 2.75" otherwise you get issues to what you were experiencing.

I run a 3" intake but it has a 2.75" reducer at the MAF so there are no issues. To run a full 3", as Ben said you need to get an aftermarket ECU.

Thank you soooo much, dude! I'll see if I can put the setup back on soon, and I'll let you know how it goes 🙂

Thanks a ton!

[Squalled]

On 1/4/2019 at 6:56 PM, justablacksportivo said:

Thank you soooo much, dude! I'll see if I can put the setup back on soon, and I'll let you know how it goes 🙂

Thanks a ton!

No worries. Also consider how close the MAF is to the throttle body. If it's too close, it can also cause issues as it won't get the correct readings.

[ben yip]

Squalled has nailed it..If you can run three inch with a ecu tune. That might produce more hp according to the info at 1zz and 2zz

https://www.spyderchat.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-31494.html

 

I am running three inch pod filter on my 2zr using injen cai. But the tubing at two steps.

From throttle body to the maf sensor, 2.5 to 2.75

Just 2 inches before the pod filter, it changes from 2.75 to 3.

 

Edited January 7, 2019 by ben yip

[campbeam]

Just a passing thought which hopefully Squalled and Ben Yip can answer.

What spark plugs do they recommend and possibly replacing/upgrading the ignition coils.

[ben yip]

I always use Toyota factory ones, iridium, very good.

I don't know much about ignition coils

[Squalled]

14 hours ago, campbeam said:

Just a passing thought which hopefully Squalled and Ben Yip can answer.

What spark plugs do they recommend and possibly replacing/upgrading the ignition coils.

Hey Campbeam, as Ben said Iridiums are definitely the best to use on the 2ZZ. There's nothing wrong with copper but a few people I know have gone copper and haven't had many issues. I use NGK Iridiums in mine from memory and runs extremely smoothly with no issues.

As for the ignition coils, there are aftermarket options for the 2ZZ which are quite rubbish to be quite honest. Only heard of negative things about changing them as they seem to fail or go faulty after a few weeks or months. The standard ignitions coils have no issues, even when making more power from what I've seen. I'm sure a few guys in Europe and the US have other solutions for a different coil.

[Hiro]

19 hours ago, Squalled said:

No worries. Also consider how close the MAF is to the throttle body. If it's too close, it can also cause issues as it won't get the correct readings.

And making sure it isn't too close to a bend.  Basically Toyota MAFs work best in straight smooth flow of the same diameter as the stock piping.