Suspension upgrade/tyres

[Tony Prodigy]

9 minutes ago, Bigmike62 said:

Hi guys...

Does anyone have an idea of how many hours labour is involved with replacing the front struts on a 40 series Aurion ??

Thinking of getting it done, my mechanic is not a rip off merchant, but Im just curious how long it would take..

A decent mechanic could do the whole job in around an hour. Then you'll have to get the front end re aligned.

[Bigmike62]

Thanks Tony Prodigy.

Im surprised it'd be that quick..

But great..

Thanks mate...

[Tony Prodigy]

18 minutes ago, Bigmike62 said:

Thanks Tony Prodigy.

Im surprised it'd be that quick..

But great..

Thanks mate...

No problem Big Mike. It's not really that big a job. It just looks that way.

 

[campbeam]

37 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

A decent mechanic could do the whole job in around an hour. Then you'll have to get the front end re aligned.

Many years ago, I was at a local Fulcrum Suspensions store to pick up some struts. With the proper workshop equipment, I noticed that their mechanic was able to compress the springs in a matter of minutes.Most of the time will be in removing the strut assembly then refitting.

When you are DIY using spring compressors, you spend a lot more time disassembling the strut assembly then re-compressing the spring for re-assembly.

[donnot]

Planning on pulling the trigger on a set of Sachs in the next couple of days. Is there anything else I'll need (i.e. can I just hand over the struts to a suspension shop/mechanic and they'll be able to install them with the old springs easily)? 

[Tony Prodigy]

3 hours ago, donnot said:

Is there anything else I'll need (i.e. can I just hand over the struts to a suspension shop/mechanic and they'll be able to install them with the old springs easily)? 

Yes Luke. They will have the necessary tools to get the job done I'm sure. 

Post up some pics if possible.

[ZZT86]

Would also suggest a set of genuine strut top mounts.

[donnot]

6 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Yes Luke. They will have the necessary tools to get the job done I'm sure. 

Post up some pics if possible.

Will do, can't wait! 

On the subject of can't wait, is there anywhere in Perth who might stock these parts (Sachs 314673, 314674, 314675, 314676)? Currently looking at Sparesbox eBay for fronts at $145 each and Automotive Superstore for rears at $167 each. 

1 hour ago, ZZT86 said:

Would also suggest a set of genuine strut top mounts.

They look to be >$100 each 😧 might give them a miss unless necessary :/.

[Tony Prodigy]

51 minutes ago, donnot said:

On the subject of can't wait, is there anywhere in Perth who might stock these parts (Sachs 314673, 314674, 314675, 314676)? Currently looking at Sparesbox eBay for fronts at $145 each and Automotive Superstore for rears at $167 each. 

Sparesbox have typically been good to deal with and price wise can be a little cheaper than most, but not always. I've found parts from other sellers who were cheaper than them but not much. I don't mind paying a bit more for peace of mind. Sparesbox are trustworthy.

Do some more research and see what you find. When I plan to buy certain parts for anything of mine, I usually spends days and some cases weeks of searching and reading reviews etc to be armed with not only the right knowledge, but also get the best possible deal. I hate nothing more than whem you jump into something really quickly only to discover you could've saved heaps more if bothered to search it out a bit more.

Take your time and do it right once I say.

55 minutes ago, donnot said:

They look to be >$100 each 😧 might give them a miss unless necessary :/.

If they look ok, then just leave them. I'm not sure what the lifespan would be for the top mounts, but if the car has had an easy life then they're probably not required.

You won't really know until you pull the strut out, so let your mechanic thoroughly inspect them before proceeding any further.

[campbeam]

6 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Sparesbox have typically been good to deal with and price wise can be a little cheaper than most, but not always. I've found parts from other sellers who were cheaper than them but not much. I don't mind paying a bit more for peace of mind. Sparesbox are trustworthy.

Do some more research and see what you find. When I plan to buy certain parts for anything of mine, I usually spends days and some cases weeks of searching and reading reviews etc

I can confirm that Sparesbox is very good to deal with and they were able to supply the rear struts.

Initially my order for rear struts was placed with Automotive Superstore in late June 2020. After 2 weeks, my order had not arrived. Subsequent check of recent online reviews indicated orders were being accepted, goods not available and refunds issued after much delay. Due to being unable to contact them by phone or receive reply to my follow up emails etc, I ended up cancelling the order via PayPal and eventually got a refund. I suspect that at that time, they were having staffing and supply issues due to impacts of COVID-19. 

This 1st hand experience certainly proved that it is worth paying extra to a dependable supplier. Highly unlikely that I will ever place an order with Automotive Superstore until I have a memory lapse. 

Just checked recent Google reviews. Highly recommend that you do the same before placing an order; Caveat Emptor - Buyer Beware.

 

[donnot]

59 minutes ago, campbeam said:

I can confirm that Sparesbox is very good to deal with and they were able to supply the rear struts.

Thanks, I might get the whole set through them. They have the fronts on their eBay store for ~$145 but rears are only on their site (for 180+). Probably worth spending the extra $25 or so rather than Automotive SS after reading yours/others' experiences. 

[donnot]

Update: Had Pedders do a $28 suspension check (just for an idea of what may need doing - not to actually get it done there). Was considering their coilovers which could be semi-comfortable with the 16" tyres (~$2300 inc alignment) but not confident based on others' experiences re: ride comfort. They seemed to think the springs/shocks were fine (only recommending replacement based on age at 155k - $228 each excl fitting).  

The only things that came up (apart from brake pads @2-3mm & rotors) were "Front lower control arm & inner bushes: rear bushes worn", "Steering gear: inner rack ends worn, rack mounts worn" and a power steering flush... 

Having second thoughts now on whether it's worth buying new standard shocks 😕

 

EDIT: as an aside, what brake pads are people running/rotors (probably won't need new rotors)?

Edited October 6, 2020 by donnot

[campbeam]

57 minutes ago, donnot said:

power steering flush... 

Having second thoughts now on whether it's worth buying new standard shocks 😕

 

EDIT: as an aside, what brake pads are people running

Instead of doing a power steering flush, I use a plastic pump bottle e.g. used hand wash bottle to empty the power steering fluid reservoir then refill the reservoir. Repeat say every few weeks/months until the fluid looks clean.

My Aurion has now got 221K in the odometer and still have yet to fit the struts that I bought in June/July. After a recent road trip, struts seem to be better but I did upgrade the rear sway bar.

If you do a search on the Forum, you will find recent posts of which brake pads are being used. I have been using Bendix Ultimate brake pads. Others have been using and recommending Remsa brake pads so I have them on my eBay watchlist.

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Remsa-Ultra-Ceramic-Rear-Brake-Pads-1285-02UC-for-Camry-Aurion-Avalon/254531108722

 

 

[donnot]

42 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Instead of doing a power steering flush, I use a plastic pump bottle e.g. used hand wash bottle to empty the power steering fluid reservoir then refill the reservoir. Repeat say every few weeks/months until the fluid looks clean.

My Aurion has now got 221K in the odometer and still have yet to fit the struts that I bought in June/July. After a recent road trip, struts seem to be better but I did upgrade the rear sway bar.

If you do a search on the Forum, you will find recent posts of which brake pads are being used. I have been using Bendix Ultimate brake pads. Others have been using and recommending Remsa brake pads so I have them on my eBay watchlist.

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Remsa-Ultra-Ceramic-Rear-Brake-Pads-1285-02UC-for-Camry-Aurion-Avalon/254531108722

 

 

Thanks, pump bottle sounds like the go for the fluid!

The Bendix Ultimate's look good but will check out the Remsa's. After some research, it seems that going for high performance pads like the Ultimate's will reduce the life of the rotors, but it's probably worth it for the performance? Current pads (not sure which model) have probably lasted <15,000km.

The front rotors feel quite uneven, so I was looking at a set of DBA T2's for ~$250 (vs machining) and leaving the rears as is. 

Edited October 6, 2020 by donnot

[donnot]

Thanks @campbeam and @Tony Prodigy (for your other posts on the forum) as always. Ended up buying the Remsa front and rear pads. Bought the DBA T2 (slotted) rotors for the front and DBA Enshield (standard) for the rear as Sparesbox had them cheap on eBay (much cheaper than their own website). Parts: https://imgur.com/a/nWEXlcN 

Pretty happy since I was quoted $350 for new pads and machining my old front rotors, and should get rid of the slight shaking when braking from higher speeds. 

Sorry for going off-topic! Back to suspension...I don't know what to do at this point 😄. 

 

Edited October 6, 2020 by donnot

[Tony Prodigy]

9 hours ago, donnot said:

Had Pedders do a $28 suspension check (just for an idea of what may need doing

Good Decision. Always good to get a professional opinion especially somewhere where you can have everything inspected on a hoist

9 hours ago, donnot said:

Was considering their coilovers which could be semi-comfortable with the 16" tyres (~$2300 inc alignment) but not confident based on others' experiences re: ride comfort.

I really wouldn't waste my time or money with these on an Aurion. The Aurion isn't supposed to be a performance car, but a nice balance of ride and comfort. If you change it's ride characteristics too much, it may not be as nice as it was meant to be.

9 hours ago, donnot said:

The only things that came up (apart from brake pads @2-3mm & rotors) were "Front lower control arm & inner bushes: rear bushes worn", "Steering gear: inner rack ends worn, rack mounts worn" and a power steering flush... 

To be expected. I'd be more inclined to have all the bushings done rather than the shocks. That's probably the root cause of your suspension issues right there. If they reckon the springs and shocks are ok, I'd go with that and probably just replace the struts with stock items to maintain it's original ride and comfort. There's nothing exciting about having your spine shattered each time you hit a bump. I much prefer the comfort these days.

9 hours ago, donnot said:

EDIT: as an aside, what brake pads are people running/rotors (probably won't need new rotors)?

I replaced my front rotors a while back ( 2 or so years ago) with DBA items and they have been fine. I was using Bendix for the first time and then decided to use the Remsa ceramic pads. They seem to be ok so far, but their claim for "cleaner" wheels is B.S. actually. I think the wheels get as dirty as they do with the Bendix, so don't believe that part of their marketing hype. I found that Genuine Toyota pads tend to keep the wheels cleaner. More importantly, performance wise, they stop really well and I won't be able to update their wear characteristics until I do my next oil service. This is when I am planning to pull the front calipers off for inspection and I may even switch to moly grease for the sliding pins as opposed to the Bendix "ceramic" lube. I find that the ceramic lube tends to dry out and you know this when the front brakes feel "grabby" at low speeds.

 

[Tony Prodigy]

11 minutes ago, donnot said:

Thanks @campbeam and @Tony Prodigy (for your other posts on the forum) as always. Ended up buying the Remsa front and rear pads. Bought the DBA T2 (slotted) rotors for the front and DBA Enshield (standard) for the rear. Parts: https://imgur.com/a/nWEXlcN 

Pretty happy since I was quoted $350 for new pads and machining my old front rotors, and should get rid of the slight shaking when braking from higher speeds. 

Your most welcome mate. You are going to fall in love with your car all over again when you refresh the brakes. It will feel like a new car.

[campbeam]

5 minutes ago, donnot said:

Thanks @campbeam and @Tony Prodigy (for your other posts on the forum). Ended up buying the Remsa front and rear pads. Bought the DBA T2 rotors for the front and DBA Enshield (standard) for the rear. Parts: https://imgur.com/a/nWEXlcN 

Sorry for going off-topic! 

 

Looks like you will now be updating your research on the best/recommended method for bedding in the new brake pads and rotors.

These days, I am driving very defensively so I usually have a bigger gap to the vehicle in front of me. I am not driving in peak hour bumper to bumper traffic, so try to drive as much as possible without using the brakes, more using what I call roadcraft to anticipate traffic flow, so take the foot off the accelerator rather than have to brake.  Payoff is that I have less wear and tear on my brakes so brake pads and rotors last longer. Also they are in better condition for that emergency braking or for braking at higher speeds. 

I have recently changed the brake fluid and also got this item on my eBay watchlist if ever the brake hoses need to be replaced.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AURION-Presara-GSV40-3-5L-2006-2011-brake-upgrade-SAFEBRAKE-Performance/170807523724

[donnot]

Wow you guys are up pretty late (or early?)!

35 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I really wouldn't waste my time or money with these on an Aurion. The Aurion isn't supposed to be a performance car, but a nice balance of ride and comfort. If you change it's ride characteristics too much, it may not be as nice as it was meant to be.

That's my worry - thought about another car like an IS350 but I'd be spending a loooooot more. Might just add a couple of psi to the rears - the tyre shop had all 4 at 41 and it handled very well, but the fronts wouldn't grip - especially pulling out onto roads with a bit of gas. RSB and FSB have made me happy enough so far.

9 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Looks like you will now be updating your research on the best/recommended method for bedding in the new brake pads and rotors.

These days, I am driving very defensively so I usually have a bigger gap to the vehicle in front of me. I am not driving in peak hour bumper to bumper traffic, so try to drive as much as possible without using the brakes, more using what I call roadcraft to anticipate traffic flow, so take the foot off the accelerator rather than have to brake.  Payoff is that I have less wear and tear on my brakes so brake pads and rotors last longer. Also they are in better condition for that emergency braking or for braking at higher speeds. 

Will definitely be doing plenty of research! I used to be very light on the brakes in my old Grand Vitara, but am having a lot more fun burning through the pads in the Aurion 😁 Maybe one day I'll start being responsible again 😅.

Edited October 6, 2020 by donnot

[Tony Prodigy]

6 minutes ago, campbeam said:

These days, I am driving very defensively so I usually have a bigger gap to the vehicle in front of me. I am not driving in peak hour bumper to bumper traffic, so try to drive as much as possible without using the brakes, more using what I call roadcraft to anticipate traffic flow, so take the foot off the accelerator rather than have to brake.  Payoff is that I have less wear and tear on my brakes so brake pads and rotors last longer. Also they are in better condition for that emergency braking or for braking at higher speeds. 

That's how I drive too Ash. Anticipation is the key to good roadcraft. Being able to "sense" the flow around you really helps in preserving the vehicle as a whole rather than the Oafish approach most people tend to have. I prefer the mechanical sympathy over a battered one any day. You don't need to be hard on the brakes if you have good roadcraft.

That brake line upgrade is also top notch. I would also seriously consider doing this at some stage too. Excellent recommendation mate 

[campbeam]

We are both up early. Daylight saving has just started in NSW.

My brakes got a good workout on a recent road trip. Certainly a few times where I was pushing my limits in overtaking vehicles towing then being on the brakes rather than just cruising.

Now back to being highly responsible and driving smoothly and keeping the engine revs mostly below 2000rpm.

Still having lots of fun driving my Aurion. Had a laugh the other day being overtaken by a Commodore making lots of exhaust noise; sort of the mechanical version of big talk, little results.

[Tony Prodigy]

3 minutes ago, campbeam said:

We are both up early. Daylight saving has just started in NSW.

Yep. I'm up before the birds anyway Ash 😄 Our clocks rolled forward one hour over the weekend and have adjust to it pretty quickly.

5 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Still having lots of fun driving my Aurion. Had a laugh the other day being overtaken by a Commodore making lots of exhaust noise; sort of the mechanical version of big talk, little results.

Ahh the blessed Boganmobile 😄😄😄

[campbeam]

9 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Ahh the blessed Boganmobile 😄😄😄

That reminded me of something else. Red hatchback was approaching the roundabout on a service road in the opposite direction and I slowed down to see whether he would give way. Ended up going around this tight roundabout really fast and NO body roll whatsoever. Quite impressive considering the speed involved.

It must have been a Golf GTI [debadged] with rock solid suspension. Definite cop magnet and boganmobile slayer.

I think that I will stay with a comfortable suspension and ride suitable for highway cruising.

[ZZT86]

@donnot  A big heavy 12 year old car with 160K kms on it is bound to have shocks that are either shot or on their way out, especially if not driven very conservatively from day 1. I'm not a fan of Pedders anything tbh, I had a bad experience with them years ago which shouldn't have happened but I wised up & learned a lot more about suspension. They're also too expensive & I doubt they're made here.

I would recommend keeping the oem springs which are Touring=thicker from memory & swapping out at least the front struts with either Sachs or KYB (later is 10-15% firmer than stock 😃 = good) & at the same time do the bushes on the LCA. Sway bar bushes &/or links may also need changing if there's any slack there. That will tighten everything up nicely. I would also still recommend the genuine strut top mounts unless the originals come off & go back on 100% without any movement of the top bush, a good suspension joint will know. If not changed & it goes bad soon after guess what, the whole lot has to come off again & re-built from scratch, ask me how I know !

[donnot]

Definitely won't be going with Pedders. Still looking into new suspension but after having my tyres rotated this morning, they found that the water pump was leaking and throwing coolant everywhere (I was brushing off a slight coolant smell lately 😄).

Only 330 in labour which seems ridiculously cheap, so going to sort that out (going to source genuine parts which won't be much more than their brand). Might as well get the bushings done at the same time. 

Thought I was past the common 150000km water pump curse, but no :(.