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Rattles


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The middle console god fixed today. They changed the Gear Selector Cables and now its rattle free revving.. WOOTAH

Yeah, but the problem will come back just keep an ear on it.

My dealer wont change it for me cause they have changed for 2 sportivos

& the rattles only disappear for a short while.

And now the toyota wont pay them for changing the selector cable anymore because its not a proper fixture to fix the rattles. ATM toyota is stil working to find a proper fixture. :angry:

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Last nite i realised for the first time that i'm getting the vibration noise too :angry: . I havent heard it before until then and it occurs when im changing gears around 2500-3000 revs in second and third gears only. Not alot of noise but annoying nevertheless. Surely Toyota Australia knows about the problem but are turning a blind eye for now. Hopefully they rectify the problem for new Sportivo's ariving in the country and fix the problems for our rattlers.

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rattles in dash? gear selector cable? noise whilst reversing....

what else is going wrong with the stivo's??????

Are all the stivo's having these problems?

I'm really concerned as to whether or not i get a lemon when my car is delivered now... :(

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Relax xTigerx, the fun factor outweighs these small niggles which every new car gets. If you buy new models, there are always niggling issues that will be rectified by the time last models run out. This model although available in Europe for a few years, i dont think was manufactured in SA for that long, so there are issues. Nothing major though man, we just like it all PERFECT, unfortunately these cars are mass produced, and the damn engine revs really high so vibrations are always gona occur. Dont worry, relax and when you get your car, you will already know what can go wrong(thanx to us :D ), but dont call this car a Lemon, it's a Toyota, they never have, and never will make lemons.

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Is there anyone out there that HAS NOT had ANY troubles with their stivo?

Nothing what so ever?

or is everyone single one problematic?

I've done just over 5000km and these are these worst of my complaints so far:

* Thought the gears were very hard to change at first and the clutch was really fast, they both smoothed out after about 2000km.

* I seem to be missing a rubber stopper out of my driver's side door, but it's just as likely that I've accidentally kicked that out at some point..

* The power on-tap makes me constantly want to floor it, which is terrible for my fuel economy and tyre life

* The damn black paint keeps getting dirty, and it takes hours to wash and polish carefully with just a bucket (water restrictions etc)

* When it's revving at 8300 I can barely hear my passenger complain over the awesome roar of the 2ZZ (I leave the window down of course..)

You get the idea :)

- Matthew

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When I rev past 8200RPM the engine cuts out. Is that suppose to happen?

I thought it would go past that to at least 9K RPM. 8200 is where red line starts!!!

Yup, that's the fuel cut.. it'll bounce off that if you really hold the pedal down for a while. You can probably bypass it, but that's not a good idea for long-term engine health.

- Matthew

ps: Where the redline starts? I've always thought of redline as a hard limit which you really shouldn't go past unless you want your engine to explode... it's served me pretty well :)

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ah....yes..i agree Bill...

BUT.....

if max power is 7800....then...if you shift at 7800...by the time you've shifted you would've have dropped 1,000rpm on a good shift...and 500rpm on a better shift and next to nothing if you can shift perfectly. (well..that's my theory...correct me if i'm wrong) :P

So...because we get the extra 400rpm...that means that...once you rech 8200 or rev-limit..then you shift..you'll already be at maximum power....but..if you shift at max power..you'll drop out of it...thus...shift a little above max power.

that's what i do..and it works great! :D :lol: :D :lol: ;)

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...

So...because we get the extra 400rpm...that means that...once you rech 8200 or rev-limit..then you shift..you'll already be at maximum power....but..if you shift at max power..you'll drop out of it...thus...shift a little above max power.

that's what i do..and it works great! :D :lol: :D :lol: ;)

Exactly. For maths/engineering students, the total power output you'll get in a given time is the integration under the dyno curve for where you've been revving it as a function of the time you've been there.

What does this mean? If you change down at perfect peak power, you'll change to a point which is far less power. If you change after that peak power (closer to the cut), you'll change to a point which is just about to hit lift, which is only a little less power. To win a race you want the most "average" power over the time (including shifts), not just a high peak. The maths is a little more complex than that, but it's good enough.

Side note: That's also why huge exhausts aren't always a good idea. If they increase the peak at the cost of the average, what's the point? Unless you're only using the car for dyno competitions...

- Matthew

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Exactly. For maths/engineering students, the total power output you'll get in a given time is the integration under the dyno curve for where you've been revving it as a function of the time you've been there.

huh??? :blink::blink::blink:

uhh...umm.....yes?

PS. duuude.....that was like..wooooOOOooo dude..... :P

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