Dynoed - very confusing.

[Orbit]

After several setbacks I finally got time to go to a Dyno. The Dyno of my preference is unavailable for an unknown amount of time so I decided to go with my second choice. Honestly, I was very disappointed and confused with the results.

Have a look for yourself:

Mods:

- Pipercams Stage2

- K&N Typhoon SRI (clean and oiled a week ago, also cleaned the maf after a few days to get rid of possible spilled oil)

- Free flow mandrel bent catback 2"

- 18" Aez Xylo's (relatively lightweight - 11.5 kilos without tire)

- 70.000 kms on the odometer.

Since the graph is in German wich isn't even my native language I will "translate" the important numbers.

- WheelHP uncorrected: 160.9 @ 7561rpm

- CrankHP uncorrected: 175.3 @ 7561rpm

- CrankHP corrected: 179.2 @ 7561rpm

- CrankTQ corrected: 172 @ 7225rpm (126.9 Lb.Ft)

Conditions: 1006mBar / 29°C (84.2°F) / 4th gear.

Single run, closed hood, minimal ventilation (just some vents in the wall 5 feet in front of the car)

What do you guys think?

The fact the guy told me he tested several 2zz-ge's which did put down the stock 192 horses made me frown a bit. My engine is very rare here but the few times I had the chance to race one I walked them BAD. On the freeway, WRX'es are no mach for me ... And honestly, I'm not the next Shumacher :D

On the other hand, he's a well respected tuner (for german cars). The fact he dislikes Japanese cars is no secret either.

[Suprathai]

Dyno's rarely give accurate readings, but in this case its way off. As some people mention its a tuning tool. I'm just as baffled as you. How about taking back to your preferred dyno when the time comes around again? Should put a big fan blowing infront of the car. Temperature makes a big difference, which may be the problem in this case.

I'm not sure how much more power those camshaft would give you. But if I where you I would be looking at the wheel HP instead of the so called corrected crank HP. Based on those figures your saying that your drivetrain achieves a loss of 8.3% through it running gear??. NO WAY!!

If we assumed that you lose 20% of your power through the drivetrain, then your crank hp should be around about 201hp. Which I suppose is acceptable with your tune. Also if i remember correctly the factroy exhaust size is larger then 2 inches. In other words you might have put in a more restrictive setup. I'm not really sure on this point though.

Cheers

P.S. I'm still new, so if I've made an mistakes then apologies first.

[SILVABULLIT]

After several setbacks I finally got time to go to a Dyno. The Dyno of my preference is unavailable for an unknown amount of time so I decided to go with my second choice. Honestly, I was very disappointed and confused with the results.

Have a look for yourself:

Mods:

- Pipercams Stage2

- K&N Typhoon SRI (clean and oiled a week ago, also cleaned the maf after a few days to get rid of possible spilled oil)

- Free flow mandrel bent catback 2"

- 18" Aez Xylo's (relatively lightweight - 11.5 kilos without tire)

- 70.000 kms on the odometer.

Since the graph is in German wich isn't even my native language I will "translate" the important numbers.

- WheelHP uncorrected: 160.9 @ 7561rpm

- CrankHP uncorrected: 175.3 @ 7561rpm

- CrankHP corrected: 179.2 @ 7561rpm

- CrankTQ corrected: 172 @ 7225rpm (126.9 Lb.Ft)

Conditions: 1006mBar / 29°C (84.2°F) / 4th gear.

Single run, closed hood, minimal ventilation (just some vents in the wall 5 feet in front of the car)

What do you guys think?

The fact the guy told me he tested several 2zz-ge's which did put down the stock 192 horses made me frown a bit. My engine is very rare here but the few times I had the chance to race one I walked them BAD. On the freeway, WRX'es are no mach for me ... And honestly, I'm not the next Shumacher :D

On the other hand, he's a well respected tuner (for german cars). The fact he dislikes Japanese cars is no secret either.

2" is too small for 2ZZ exhaust. That will be costing you power. Is this dyno a hub dyno or roller style dyno??

192 hp stock is close to what they make at the flywheel not the wheels. You should have over 200hp at the flywheel but as your graph suggests the exhaust is killing it big time top end hence the dip in power. Change your exhaust to 2.5" and you should see a marked improvement in power. Also is he runnning it to the limiter? Cause 2ZZ make power to the limiter.

Hope this helps.

Cheers SB :D

[SuperDave]

Did they do your AFR? Just curious because Piper recommend that an aftermarket ECU and valve springs be used with the stage 2 cams.

[Dead]

Yes I've never really trusted dyno's myself either. However I can attest to owning WRX's along freeways. A friend of mine in the States has outrun a few of them on the freeways there. They seem to lose torque up high, whereas the 2zz's just keep pulling and never stop. However those Rexys accelerate like hell which is their high point.

[vitagen]

i agree the 2" exhaust is too small

stock is 2.25 inch so i think you decreased the exhaust piping

it said on your graph is ~175.3 hp

that equates to about 134.8 kw which is quite impressive as most bolt on 2zzs in australia pump ouot about 115 kw atw...

change ur exhaust diameter and let the juices flow

[Mintos]

Based on the provided information i would say that your dyno is around about where you should be at based on your mods.

From tuners I have spoken to and results i have observed the 2zz's seem to be REALLY inconsistent on dynos. Results for a modded 2zz can range from 105kw atw to 130kw atw. You are at 125kw atw uncorrected (160hp) so you are not doing too badly.

As others have said, if you are really concerned about performance up top you should go a 2.5" exhaust, that should really open up that dip in the midrange and give you a bit more in the top end. Also if you added an ECU of sorts (Power FC is my recommendation) you would see even greater improvements, especially if you got those piper cams in there. With these changes though i think you shouldnt have any problems reaching around 180hp (140kw) atw and you will have vastly superior midrange.

Those cams look to get you some great low end performance as well, but also as SuperDave said, i would have advised some harder valve springs with those cams to prevent valve float when you are reaching the 8XXX rpm range.

Yeah also the tuner is an ar$e clown who doesnt know $hit from clay, don't listen to anything he says about stock 2zz's, yours would crucify one.

[CAP]

My engine is very rare here but the few times I had the chance to race one I walked them BAD. On the freeway, WRX'es are no mach for me ... And honestly, I'm not the next Shumacher :D

On the other hand, he's a well respected tuner (for german cars). The fact he dislikes Japanese cars is no secret either.

If the car performs the way you like on the road, then you should be happy and ignore the Dyno result.

Also - never heard of a Dyno Operator performing only a single run with no ventilation.

Most Dyno Operators will run at least 3 times consecutively with most cars achieving best results on the last run after the car has opened up :D

[lucio_libre]

I wish I had my corolla in germany!!

[Orbit]

The power I acheived on the wheels is 118,3 KW uncorrected (and it was pretty hot). 1 KW = 1,36 HP.

This isn't problematic but schould be higher.

That my exhaust is too small is quite clear by now. What size should I aim for? For example, what sizing is the CES exhaust?

[SuperDave]

The *** (;)) is 2.5"

Edited September 15, 2006 by SuperDave

[xoom]

just a couple of pointers

1 - the 2" exhaust will be restricting the h.e.l.l out of ur engine so definitly get urself a 2.5"

2 - since u put the cams in my suggestion to u is get an ems like the power fc, hydra ems or motec as the cams will not be working to full potential on the stock ecu

3 - since he only put the car on the dyno and did 1 run that means absolutely didly squat .... ive seen cars gain 5-10kw because on the 1st run something wasnt right etc and especially if ur car was cold when it went on.

4 - in all honest ignore what the dyno said get 1 & 2 sorted and then see how the car drives ..... the figures can say what ever they want but how the car drives and how it performs on the track or on the 1/4 mile doesnt lie.

[Orbit]

just a couple of pointers

1 - the 2" exhaust will be restricting the h.e.l.l out of ur engine so definitly get urself a 2.5"

2 - since u put the cams in my suggestion to u is get an ems like the power fc, hydra ems or motec as the cams will not be working to full potential on the stock ecu

3 - since he only put the car on the dyno and did 1 run that means absolutely didly squat .... ive seen cars gain 5-10kw because on the 1st run something wasnt right etc and especially if ur car was cold when it went on.

4 - in all honest ignore what the dyno said get 1 & 2 sorted and then see how the car drives ..... the figures can say what ever they want but how the car drives and how it performs on the track or on the 1/4 mile doesnt lie.

1 - Yup, thats something that is right on the top of my to do list. Any id what this could mean in hp's with the larger exhaust on it?

2 - I chose the cams as an alternative to an engine management. They have proven to be working very well with the stock ECU. Until i find someone who can win my trust the stock ecu stays put :)

3 - Engine was warm, the drive up there is +30 min and the run was done like 15 minutes after I got there.

4 - Totaly agree, and on the road i'm happy, its pretty rare i get beaten. But nontheless the dyno proved to be usefull. I never would have doubted my exhaust without the run.