Modified airbox aspiration

[selyaT]

Yeah Grima you may be right but I can't remember the last time it rained here

That sounds like a good idea :)

EDIT: Got a pic of where the duct sucks from

Edited December 1, 2006 by Tayles

[3zzfe]

Recently in my madness ideas I thought to install a conical filter (instead of the bmc panel) into the stock airbox, and to cover the airbox with an alluminium sheet to reduce the temperature into itself

[selyaT]

I've a few tricks up my sleeve too B)

[3zzfe]

I've a few tricks up my sleeve too B)

weeeeelll explain us

[CHA54]

when you're running the ducting to the airbox, you get better throttle response if the duct is as short as possible.

When we did this to MAP81's car a few years ago, we made the ducting stop just after it passes through the gap into the front bumper cavity.

I then fabricated a fibreglass duct that fitted into the front bumper on the passenger side of the number plate that directed more cold air to the bumper cavity via another piece of ducting when the car is in motion.

Worked quite well.

When the ducting is too long, the engine has to work hard to suck the air all the way down the pipe, which costs you throttle response and power.

Same reason a properly designed and shielded SRI will make more power than a traditional long pipe CAI.

[selyaT]

Yep Rollamods I've read all your previous posts in SRI threads and they're consistent with what you just said. And a deflecting shield would be excellent to redirect air to where the duct is sucking from.

However, suppose the 70mm inlet to the airbox is not sealed to the 80mm ducting (notice that Just used a fair bit of gaffa tape to seal the two pieces together). Imagine the duct finishes, say, 3 inches short of the airbox inlet (perhaps further), and the other end sits flush in front of the open grille like mine. When the car is travelling, would a sufficient amount of fresh air be pushed up the tube (simply by the velocity of the car) creating a cool pocket of air in the region of the engine bay from which the airbox inlet draws??? So, effectively, the engine does not have to work hard to draw (suck) the air out of the long tube, but draws the air directly from the airbox inlet, where fresh air from the front of the car has been supplied by the duct.

Is this a plausible theory or simply a pipe dream?

ALL puns intended

[selyaT]

i reckon u feed it in the fog light area... when u driving... more air is forced into the duct...

Here's a prime example from DuGong, who has since fitted a pod filter I believe.

Notice how rather than making a CAI setup where the engine has to "suck" the air out of the pipe, his idea is to ram as much air into the viscinity of the airbox as possible, creating a "cold atmosphere" for the engine to draw from.

Hopefully that makes it clearer :)

Anyone else with thoughts and opinions, join the party too

[DuGong]

tayles... yep.. i am doing wat u just have discribe in your recent post.... making a field of cold air around the filter whilst moving...

sucks hot air traffic but get colder when moving...

zipties the duct intake so at very high speeds it doesnt fly back in the hole and suck nothing.. thats wat has happend recently....

the filter is one of those dual intake type... intake on the top and the sides.

might get a heat shield.... dont think i need one....

gonna get mesh next to cover the foglight area.. dun want bugs and leaves goin up the intake

Edited December 1, 2006 by DuGong

[Kevsta]

Cable tieing the tube to the wires is something I wouldn't do... but I guess it's personal preference.

[Suprathai]

Can anyone demonstrate where most of the restriction is happening in the intake? i.e. snorkel, airbox, filter, MAF sensor, MAF to TB??

Just did some further reading and find out that the filter is usually the first thing that comes to mind when eliminating restriction when the truth is that its not the main culprit....

[selyaT]

Cable tieing the tube to the wires is something I wouldn't do... but I guess it's personal preference.

Yeah I'm suprised no-one else has ragged on me about that... I've asked a few people and they reckon it's okay. The truth is that it isn't really a load bearing cable tie, it's probably not even needed, the tube is firmly wedged between the fuse box and the sheet metal (top of the wheel arch I guess) anyway. Even so, I'll most likely find a more suitable anchor point when I've installed all the rest of my intake gear. Thanks for your concern.

DuGong I don't really understand what you mean by "zipties the duct intake so at very high speeds it doesnt fly back in the hole and suck nothing.. thats wat has happend recently....". You mean when you were doing 100km/h or something the end of your duct was pushed back through your foglight hole into the front bar cavity? I also secured mine with cable ties so I've got that covered... Unless you mean something else.

Anyway after driving home at night with the cooler air (as opposed to 30+ degree days), I lifted the bonnet to touch the duct. I was suprised how cold it was considering it's made of silicon and it's given me more faith in the setup. Obviously touching an aluminium CAI pipe after a drive is WAY colder - but apples and oranges people. I'd like to know, from you people using aluminium ducting, how cold that gets after a drive? Cheers

[DuGong]

"DuGong I don't really understand what you mean by "zipties the duct intake so at very high speeds it doesnt fly back in the hole and suck nothing.. thats wat has happend recently....". You mean when you were doing 100km/h or something the end of your duct was pushed back through your foglight hole into the front bar cavity? I also secured mine with cable ties so I've got that covered... Unless you mean something else."

yep thats wat happend.. got pushed so far back that the intake was facing a diff direction...

must be goin very fast for that to happen though...

[selyaT]

Cool... How cold does that aluminium stuff become after a drive?