Mintos

No I am not saying FWD are ****boxes by any means, however for most they are the least favored. I mean you cannot argue that RWD cars get the power down far better than front wheelers and assuming both cars have well setup suspension the RWD IS likely going to be quicker around a track. For a street car I think 'driftability' is of little concern - only bogans want a poorly balanced car that is going to swing out at every round about and 90 degree bend (ie, the whole commo/falcon community, nothing but inside wheelspin heroes... they could at least invest in an LSD :P ) EDIT - Sorry, going off topic... if you own a sportivo and have the $$$ buy this kit...you know what to do :)

yes, the retard is strong in this one...

First let me add... the reason people go to turbo cars instead of working with the 2zz is because of this Blitz kit for example. About $7k for a 30% power increase? With most factory turbo cars $7k can easily double an already adequate (in most cases, with exception to 'kw junkies' like me) power output. For this reason and the combined fact that 2zz only comes in FWD (with exception to the $$$ Lotus) equipped cars... other factory boosted vehicles (Evo, Rexy, Skyline etc) are a better choice for many due to the more favored drivetrain. I will also add though that you cannot go wrong with Blitz gear, they are one of the top Jap aftermarket brands IMO, they aren't cheap, but what you pay for with the Blitz gear is the quality of fitting and manufacture. I guess what I am saying is that if I owned a Sportivo and didn't want to chase a turbo job on it, I would grab one of these kits and boost the tits off it with a bit of supporting work (eg PFC :D). All you girly men who cry about needing a built engine for anything less than 10 psi need to htfu - tune it right and your motor isn't going to explode from your fully hektic boost pressure.

sounds like money well spent to me... *cough*

A good divorce lawyer to help retrieve your balls from her wallet?

Wow - strong blatant disregard for vehicle longevity. I hope you don't apply the same abuse to the missus mate, or brag about how many times you "told her" cause i don't think you will be able to get replacement parts for her when stuff breaks as a result of user negligence. (yes joking :P)

The 32 GTR gun metal wheels suit the colour well, maybe a little small for my taste though :P Also a props for taking straight to the car with mods, more people need to harden the fark up with new cars and get into it - although this is easy done if the olds just bought the car for you ;)

i beg 2 differ B) B) B) B) B) turbo the rolla & it will sound like an absolute beast .... better than any skyline :P :P :P :P :P :P Oh Billy... Lets line up in a maccas carpark revving our engines to redline on idle and see how many bogans flock to each car :D (yes, joking) And when I finally get my not so overnight parts from Japan I will make a trip down WSID way, then its on like donkey kong... we will settle this (serious)

Haha funny thread, but for a response... Exhausts are always nothing more than a reflection of the sound of a motor...so you can never make a Corolla exhaust sound like a Skyline exhaust per say. You can put a huge canon on your Corolla to try and give it a deeper tone, but it will only last until about 1k rpm then it will sound like a 4 cyl, just a really loud, droning 4 cyl :P I sampled a couple of different exhaust setups on my corolla in an attempt to make it sound 'meatier' and found the best sound you can come to expect out of a rolla is a raspy scream. Unfortunately it will never match up to the orgasmic tone of a nice RB exhaust in full swing

Apparently you have been smoking reefer as well, judging by how articulate your writing is... Pete, you are just experiencing standard clutch wear on a factory clutch. Organic clutches perform best within a certain heat range, when they get hot, they go soft and slip much easier. You will really notice it for example if you have been driving along a highway for a period of time at decent speed in high gears (this puts the most strain on the clutch) and then come into city traffic, the clutch will feel weak. The simple solution is to get a clutch with a higher clamp load and/or of different material (ceramic, brass, copper, etc) they all have different properties in regards to operating temps, ease of 'slippage', durability.

Who wants to stuff around getting a c16 tune/run/swap...that crap makes big numbers and makes for an impressive qualifying lap/1/4 mile, but otherwise, not worth it IMO draining and swapping whenever you want to push the car. Pump fuel FTW That being said, if you are game to push for 35 psi on 98/100 octane...kudos for having the balls.

"Wrong"? Damn straight throw more weight in the rear...providing you have an LSD box in there as well, if the 100 odd kg weight offset of the 3s setup upsets you that much, throw a lead brick in the front of the car...personally the increased tendency to understeer on the way in and oversteer on the way out wouldn't bother me as much as wasting time with a 2zz - I would sooner turbo the standard 1zz (yes, cheaper). Besides, the choice here isn't necessarily about which is quicker around a track, but for most it is 'what is more fun to drive' - and most people would take more power/standard durability over slightly less responsive handling. Not everyone wants to be a track day hero mate. As to the OP, if you got a 2zz lying around and want to throw it into something for a cheap option with minimal hassle with some fun, an AE rolla would be way to go.

some of you 2zz fan boys need to go back to your Honda Vtecs y0... 3s-gte + ZZW30 = winner /thread

missfires are commonly caused by coil packs and spark plugs... as Bill said, I would think the standard coil packs are fine, still newish cars, its only a problem when the rubber gets cracked and the spark starts to arc which is not likely to have happened here i say. I bet if they mess with plug gaps/heat ranges it will fix the problem...some motors are simply very temperamental with their ignition in different conditions. My car misfired REAL bad once winter came and intake temps dropped, almost like the engine completely cut out at about 5k rpm. The spark plugs were not hot enough to compensate, so i went up 3 heat ranges 9-6, problem solved completely. Likewise concerning spark plug gap, higher boost often calls for a smaller gap and more aggressive spark.

Are you sure a T28 BB S15 turbo would be the go here mate? I think they got a .60 (.43 on the RB26 N1 version) exhaust housing which isn't anywhere near big enough for a diesel... are you getting the housing modified at all? I would also be reconsidering the XR6T stock cooler...from guys that i know who have done a bit of work with the XR6Ts, the stock cooler on them doesn't go very far at all...since the pipework is going to be custom for that anyway, why not just grab a budget bar & plate cooler from JustJap or something? For core only a good size is only around $150 with certainly enough efficiency for your application. I know you aren't trying to build a race car here, but if you are making a torque producing workhorse you want it to be durable in all sorts of conditions....the proposed setup looks ready to blow at >4k rpm on a hot summer day (yes i know the redline of the car is probably about 4.5k :P)

Your turbo is running out of puff at 5k rpm because 9psi isn't exactly in the boost efficiency range for a 2871 and with these smaller motors you need to ram the high pressure boost in there to get the train pulling effect that higher displacement motors are able to achieve with much lower boost :P Not to take a ***** on superchargers here, however...when talking about high performance cars (not just nippy street cars) most will agree that a well planned out turbo setup (suited to whatever the intended application of the car is, eg big turbo for drag car, smaller for hill climb, medium for track car, etc) is better for smaller motors. This is simply because the gains from a supercharger are proportional to the base torque/power of the motor. Not saying fun can't be had with Blitz/TRD setups, but if you are talking raw performance, can't question the a snail on these cars

As i am sure others will tell you shortly dude, i don't really think this would be a worthwhile mod for an auto 1zz. The 1zz is a small capacity motor and unless you are feeding it with some boost, increasing your intake volume isn't going to give you much of a power gain and will probably cost you a fair penny. I think your next easy step in increasing horsepower would be a supercharger...sure it will cost you 3-4k, but it will at least get you noticeable gains and not jeopardize your motor at all. I would take a good guess in saying the stock ECU wouldn't know how to deal with a larger throttle body too well at all...probably wouldn't go into r&r, but surely wouldn't adjust well. Also an alternative is getting a forged N/A motor that can rev to 8.5k, but from my perspective it is completely wasted on an auto and quite costly (5-6k min not including an ECU which would be require for the cams). And the OTHER alternative of course is to go the way of many on here recently and sell your rolla to buy a more performance orientated vehicle ;)

clearly the man is in need of a twin plate ORC, because his sportivo puts out such hektic horsepower that it just FRIES these wussy organic/ceramic single plates. :P if you really must ride the clutch so much i wouldnt recommend a brass or copper faced clutch as they wear even quicker with abuse. I would probly just replace with another cheapo Excedy HD clutch, not worth replacing with something expensive that is going to get mashed just as fast again.... or l2drive, whatever is easier :)

as rollamods suggested i would swap over the injectors see how that goes. Generally jap manufacturers use colour codes with their injectors, so likelyhood is they are different, maybe the spray pattern or flow volume. From what i understand you are still using your old ECU yeah? From what i know most factory ECU's don't know how to deal with a change in the injectors well (riching/leaning out, retarding). Unless it is a short motor from an older US Celica 1zz it is the exact same as your old one internally, so cams and whatnot shouldnt be an issue. It is known how much of an a55 stock ECUs are, so if after you change the injectors and still have a slothful motor, throw out the stock ECU and put a PFC in there, crank the timing, problem solved :)

lol, if you think about what his plates mean,he's going to put a 2ZZGE engine out of a sportivo in this baby, hence the MR2 2ZZ, hehehe it will probably tear any aw11 4agze owners asses open anyday once its finished Chris Actually if Dylan is planning on just putting in a standard 2zz, it really will only be a marginal improvement on a 4agze...with some tinkering and upped boost i have seen the 4agze's pump out around 120kw atw with more torque than a standard 2zz could put out. So i am going to take a guess that he is going to be perhaps putting in a premade N/A built motor with the suitable cam/rod/piston/valve/crank setup that should scream to a more healthy power delivery. Could get one of these motors for about 8-10k from the US, transplant would cost squat... would be a linear power delivery but 9k rpm and a light chassis should make up for that...should go good. Could try and turbo a stock motor just on low boost, but with the amount of room in the back of the aw11s... would be a REAL nasty job. Or i could be wrong and he is just putting in a standard 2zz motor... which would be dissappointing

sweet jesus look at that power curve! love it when boost is like getting smacked in the @rse by a truck :D also looks like that 6 speed is pretty close ratio, very nice. Just gotta watch those dodgy Suby drivelines and refrain from launching off the limiter as tempting as it is to give yourself whiplash :P now to crank this out of an RB25DET without making it a diabolical daily driver...easy :)

C.j, as others have mentioned man, the corolla isn't a track car - in terms of handling if you add in some coilovers and some swaybars/strut braces however you will have a very good handling vehicle - not perfect...but you get what you pay for. Being FWD the corolla will ALWAYS be prone to understeer, you cannot avoid it, however you can minimise it. Ignore the garbage people say on here about front sways increasing understeer, that is bs. Due to the increased underbody rigidity you can enter corners much quicker with a front swaybar and overall body roll is further reduced. With front and rear sways + g4 coilovers in my rolla i found the only restricting point handling wise to be traction. The chassis of the car was very stiff and when tuned right the suspension was very stiff. If you put on the power halfway in a corner with a FWD car making any power you WILL understeer, just like with a RWD car if you put the power on too early with half decent horsepower you WILL oversteer. Remember that you can't avoid physics...if you reduce movement in the chassis and suspension while cornering, the load is then placed on your tyres - however rubber is far more forgiving than steel frames :D Therefore the best places to spend money to reduce understeer would include: LSD, wheels/tyres and front sway if you don't already intend on getting one. In terms of fine tuning, only ALOT of track work will tell you exactly what sort of handling you want (progressive, high threshold, balanced, etc) and what sort of handling you are able to get out of the corolla.

like what? an extra 200kg of useless crap? WOW it has an extra gear....whoopee its slower than the 9th gens, looks retarded, is more emissions friendly, is more safe...it sure as hell isn't a drivers car. in fact, its quite the homo car. HOWEVER from an economical standpoint you would be better off taking the deal...yes...but then you certainly wouldn't be an enthusiast would you?

that looks like a GT35 to me...(could be wrong but judging by the 0.7 compressor housing) this tells me a few things: *this person doesnt care about chronic lag - expect full boost to hit at 6k at least *this person doesnt know squat about turbo efficiency, these things only get going at 20+ psi *this person likes to flog off over dyno sheets they will also have fun finding a comfortable lasting clutch for this setup... Certainly not an ideal setup but certainly kudos for having the balls/stupidity to have a chop, hopefully it turns out...its certainly a neat setup done by CES.

they look like homo cars to me