Mintos

:( I don't want to play this game, the grand total could give me second thoughts as to the other places the money could have gone

as shao said mate, if you want better cornering without jeopardising ride (or paying through the teeth) your best bet is something like konis+prosport king springs (selectable spring rates) + sway bars. You won't scrub, ride will still be good and cornering will not be too far off a fully decked out ride suspension wise. anyhows, my analysis of G4's - I run mine on around 66% dampening (100% being hardest dampening) performance - 8 - they handle really well i think, but if i had my choice over i would have gotten softer spring rates (i have 7/5 and its too hard for the crappy roads around my way). I have swaybars as well...the only issues i have in handling now is my crappy tyres and their lack of dry traction/sidewall flex. comfort - 3 - coilovers are not comfortable and as others have said...its generally if you want more performance your ride is going to suffer and vice versa. That being said i have adjusted to these well and i don't mind the ride anymore. I have mine pretty low though (sitting around 90mm at the front) and on certain bumps it scrubs, but you just need to avoid the dips/potholes in the road that you know will cause damage As Dylan said earlier as well, a great advantage of these coilovers is to be able to interchange parts and of course, they are pretty cheap!

what? what sort of resolution was that? what happened to the race? we want blood! As a secondary conclusion, what can be gathered is this: * dyno's are a measuring tool * they are not a 100% accurate measuring tool that has multiple influencing factors including: - air temp - humidity - tyre pressure (size also influences the uncorrected torque measured) - fan usage/placement - tautness of vehicle tie down * dyno's therefore may be still used to benchmark and compare however not to a highly accurate extent - eg. measuring the measly possible 5kw power gain from a CAI on a corolla that is already making around 100kw atw, especially if the dynos are performed with highly varying factors as mentioned above. eg 2. an RB25 R33 makes 250kw atw on a dyno, then a corolla comes onto the same dyno and makes 100kw. Comparitively it can be said that the corolla would get munched * the track is the traditional place to measure vehicle performance - BUT it still suffers from similar factors to a dyno as well as others... - air temp - quality of traction (tyre size, rubber compound, road quality) - clutch - and an even bigger accuracy descriminator - the DRIVER! * therefore the only absolute conclusion is to go on a forum, compare figures/track times and argue about whose car is better that is also interesting about Croydon getting r@ped for dyno tampering, hehe. I know heaps of guys that get their Nissan work done there, they seem(ed) like a reputable mob.

A dyno measures mechanical force produced by the wheels of the car - NOT a/f ratios and ignition timing, other measuring devices do this. I am not exactly a dyno whore, but the experiences i have had with them...they are pretty sketchy. I mean i wouldnt be too worried about like 10% descrepencies for example. And as rollamods said, if you give a $hit about a couple of kw anyway then you need a car with more power where you don't need a dyno to assure you that your crappy N/A CAI is giving you a power gain or not but rather an obvious increase in g force when accelerating lets you know :P I think the point xoom was trying to make Danz is pretty much what i said above...dynos are primarily a tuning tool which not 100% accurate and therefore shouldnt be stressed over so much when comparing numbers. Again as rollamods said, its what is below the curve that is the important part, the big number at the top of the page is just a ballpark figure. Also from memory Danz you used to have a somewhat dubious dyno graph in your garage here that showed 91.# kw and about 6 months ago you went on a dyno day and only got 86kw atw - you werent happy. I will also mention that according to dyno dynamics dynos the Power FC gave my 1zz an 18kw atw peak output gain. On paper this is pretty substantial, so should everyone be clamoring for one now? No, because in practice it isnt as impressive and this comes back to xoom's point... I think xoom and Danz need to settle this the only way possible - street race!

thanks for all the possitive comments guys! just had the suspension retuned the other day - now sitting at around 90mm clearance at the front, got around 2 degrees negative camber on the front and she is handling like a beast got a full exterior detail today as well (been well overdue) - I will try and get some updated non 4x4 photos up soon bozurolla - thanks man. The 2 1/4 inch exhaust is much better for the 1zz, but i didnt get 2.5" because i am stupid ;) As for the Power FC...they are an expensive toy for a bit of extra poke and arent really worth it if you are only going to stick to basic mods, but if you are keen and need any help wiring or anything just PM me :) As for the eyelids, easy to get them off ebay for the plain ABS plastic ones, they just need a painting, not worth spending the extra cash on some plastic decals IMO...

*searches for bucket to hurl in* as suspected, Toyota is going to hell in a handbag, turning into a bunch of go green sissies. Evidence of this can be seen in this new corolla and the heavy influence from the girly "efficient" yaris...which i may mention can be outpaced with ease by a push bike. I wouldnt expect any turbo'd corollas or serious performance cars from Toyota at this rate. Shame Toyota...Shame.

As Danz has ranted before...these are another Thai made coilover - they are all more or less identical. Maybe different colours, different shaped bolts, but otherwise the same. The probably all come out of the same plant there just with different stickers. Obviously as well, they all perform roughly the same, its just a matter of selecting the right spring rate to suit you and it will be fine. Australian made coilovers (I only know of Teins and DMS) are more expensive because they are not produced in a sweatshop and if you have seen these coilovers you will see they don't have the monotube design and some would say they look more "sturdy". Generally these australian made brands have spring rates better matched to the $hithouse roads we have here, so it depends where your priorities are. Handling or smoothness?

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure there's no such thing as a C51. ZZE123Rs (aka Stivos) have the C60 6-speed gearbox, and ZZE122Rs (aka normal 1ZZ Corollas) have the C150 (but thats just a stronger, slightly different C50 to fit the ZZ engine) Well the Toyota Corolla service CDs say otherwise, C51s do exist. I can't be possitive about the Sportivos I dont remember exactly...I read a design document a while back...i think though yeah the stivos either have the C60 or C64, not a C5X series. And i can say for sure the 1zzs have a C52 in them because the plaque in my engine bay says so :P

the reason reverse is such an SOB is because it doesnt have any synchro's, its pretty much a 'raw' shift as you will see if you put the car in neutral, rev it a bit, then try and change into reverse - hear that grinding? but one of the primary design principles of the C51 (stivo) and C52 (1zz) gearboxes was a 'notchy' shift. The reasoning behind this was to make the shift gates easier to slide into, giving the box a more rigid and sturdy feel. Personally i like it...however i find you ever need to really give the shift any effort than you are not clutching properly/your clutch sucks. A weird thing that i find about the 1zz box though...it seems to shift smoother when punching it, especially under high revs ;)

so lets say Gazoom does chop shop the crap out of his bonnet...its a perfect job. Of what use is mutilating your car when for at least 3 months of the year any sort of CAI is pretty much useless? as others have said, it would be far wiser to simply box up your POD and have a cold air feed going to either the fog light (a little far) or behind the headlight/grill (closer). Keep in mind the basic rule however that the further the cold air has to travel directly to your throttle body, the lesser throttle response you will have.

In terms of performance, I personally think it makes jack all difference what you get so long as it is free flowing it will be better than stock. I have used a cannon and a magnaflow muffler on the same system and there was no difference in output at all. I think it really comes down to sound, cost and look - what suits you.

I will also add that the seppo's tend to favour the AEM intakes and seem to get consistently better output with them over other brands with both the 1zz and 2zz variants.

if your CAI is not a piece of garbage/installed correctly, etc. then with driving in non traffic, the air temp going through the intake is *generally* very close/exactly the same as the air temp outside the vehicle. if you are driving in traffic, the car is idling alot, not getting alot of air flow from moving and your cai is sucking up the hot exhaust fumes from the car in front then your intake air tempature will be substantially higher, maybe 35-45 degrees. If you guys want some exact numbers... Driving today during traffic my intake temp peaked at 40 degrees, while cruising home in the same outside temperature it was around 26 degrees. Then tonight on the way home from work, 19 degrees. Regardless of the conditions, my AEM intake never gets hot, it is warm at worst, cool as in winter B)

I have checked this out a fair amount, through performance parts research and whatnot...as xoom pointed out, the best comparison we have thus far going by time slips is mine and his car. I don't think you can compare mods like exhausts and intakes without having had the car tuned, because each motor is manufactured slightly differently and each ECU can be COMPLETELY different. So if you take that out of the equation with a Power FC, it is a more fair comparison i think. As to answer the question...on paper, a 1zz and 2zz with full exhausts and intakes, with a Power FC, below lift the 2zz is still ahead (about 3nm in torque from memory around 4.5k rpm), but their horsepower is pretty much equal. Also though the torque curves on the 2zz (before lift) and the 1zz are quite different... Also as 1ZZ-FE said, gear ratios play a very big part. Even if the 1zz and 2zz were dead even output wise below lift, a 2zz with the C51 box would win. I have never been in a Sportivo with any mods done...only ever driven a stocky a few years back and it didnt impress me...really needed lift to get the SOB going and at the time i wasnt into high rpm driving, so the 1zz seemed like a better deal to me. From how i have seen the 2zz go though..to me (a bias 1zz driver), the 1zz does seem to deliver more torque...its hard to compare the 1zz and 2zz from 1.4 mile times though, even though dynos are unreliable with numbers i think they are a better comparison tool for this topc - dyno day Sydney people???

I have a high flow cat in my 1zz... IMO it doesnt do ***** all, as people have said, these are N/A 1.8L cars, they are slow, removing a cat isnt going to do squat. It isnt worth the potential r@ping from the boys in blue if you want to take your cat out... don't waste your money, stock is fine.

ok...on the cheap i would say... see if you can fit/mount/attack a leaf blower into your intake and have it remotely triggered from the cabin. So when you feel the need for a few extra horsies you crank up your blower and cram a couple of pounds of air into your throttle body, should yield a ~10% power increase depending on the blower. Seriously.

holy crap that has more rice on it than the rissotto i just ate....hehe joking man, very nice ride. They are potentially awesome looking cars the celica i think. I also particularly like that dash panel man, very nice :D

ahahaha, the last time i was down at Sydney at WSID i remember seeing the hooters being built there near Olympic park and thinking: HOLY CRAP! HOOTERS! Even though it is a 2 hour drive, when this place opens up i will have to come here just to laugh my ar$e off at the Aussie adapdation of this seppo food chain. am I actually going to follow through with that 2 month old thought? yeah probably not...was probably just a heat of the moment thought with the whole 'hooters' mental image that probably made the place seem alot more appealing than it actually is.

Based on the provided information i would say that your dyno is around about where you should be at based on your mods. From tuners I have spoken to and results i have observed the 2zz's seem to be REALLY inconsistent on dynos. Results for a modded 2zz can range from 105kw atw to 130kw atw. You are at 125kw atw uncorrected (160hp) so you are not doing too badly. As others have said, if you are really concerned about performance up top you should go a 2.5" exhaust, that should really open up that dip in the midrange and give you a bit more in the top end. Also if you added an ECU of sorts (Power FC is my recommendation) you would see even greater improvements, especially if you got those piper cams in there. With these changes though i think you shouldnt have any problems reaching around 180hp (140kw) atw and you will have vastly superior midrange. Those cams look to get you some great low end performance as well, but also as SuperDave said, i would have advised some harder valve springs with those cams to prevent valve float when you are reaching the 8XXX rpm range. Yeah also the tuner is an ar$e clown who doesnt know $hit from clay, don't listen to anything he says about stock 2zz's, yours would crucify one.

You were thinking about STREET RACING a turbo'd IS200 Silva? Oh you should go to prison! :P I would have told the missus to shutup and gone for it

oh so its on now! I saw this nifty little mod being flashed around on Sunday, hehe. nice ride M&M, don't know if it is better than a team white 1zz though... but they do say red cars go faster! :P

yeah thats right, i just updated my "basic stats" to include transmission :P sorry man, but not an auto :P updated pics will be on the way shortly!

definitely a funky car :D just need to fix that problem of the auto 1.3L motor Aimee...

yeah hopefully! Don't want to make any solid claims as of yet, but i have no doubt that my car right now has the potential to take a stock sportivo, the only problem is traction...it seems to light up way too easy anyway, will see how it all goes and i will hit up the 1/4 mile again soon

Bill, that post is about as reliable as your phony dyno sheet :P The motor pictured could be bloody anything, the intake manifold is completely different and you cannot even see a turbo or exhaust manifold and it is supposed to be making 750hp at the fly? Pft, even it was true, it would only equate to about 550-600hp atw, not THAT insane anyway (still good for a 2L motor mind you) And the photo quality makes me even more dubious, they are like 0.5 mpx with dodgy wordart slapped on them. Total crock!