Mintos

Thanks shao, that long @ss signature was starting to make forum browsing an SOB, especially trying to read your posts :P

Well lets see...firstly, i was the first to reveal the name of the Aurion in a week old thread, at which time, i already knew what you learned 5 minutes ago. Also, throughout my previous post i was referring exclusively to the Aurion Sportivo, not the baseline Aurion, that is not the vehicle in question. There is no way of knowing whether toyota Australia will opt for a different wheel drive just because the Sportivo is pushing more power, as previous posts have told, so long as it suits costs Toyota won't really care if it will not get the power down. Cops must also be pretty soft down in Victoria, because you get raped in my neck of the woods if you are a P plater with an F/I vehicle. Also, what is the point of having a performance vehicle if you cant give it some stick on a regular basis? All i can say is that you are making some pretty confident assumptions... Lucky for you that it is probably Daddy paying for it...

From my experiences with exhaust systems...I would say a race pipe will undoubtedly yield gains, however it will come at a tax. With the removal of the stock muffler, when the car is under load, you will lose a fair amount of torque, more noticably in the bottom end as a result of the absence of backpressure. When the car is NOT under load however (ie, only 1 person in the car) you will see gains accross the band, moreso in the midrange and top end where the restrictions of a muffler stop the car from breathing like it could. Basically i am saying, in ideal conditions, free'er flow = more power. This is why the race pipe has more effective application to the track (hence the name 'racepipe') as motor racing is generally performed in the higher RPMs to maintain peak output.

I think thats a fair call, if you refer to Toyota Australia that is. If you mean toyota worldwide, then you have been playing too much GT4 :). You gotta remember that Toyota Australia will also want to look after itself hence it is killing alot of the sporty stuff available in other countries. I think sportivo aurion will give a new start for toyota to prove themselves that they can build a fast sedan that suits australian's. As for the name, Sportivo does sound like "sporti" or "sporty" but when the aurion sportivo comes out, you can't really call that just sporty as it will have +250kw's under the hood. I would like to see the sportivo name changed to sport as it will be way more persuasive and direct. Im guessing that the sportivo aurion s/c would be awd as well as the body structure really looks like it suits an awd system perfectly. AWD + s/c 3.5 v6, then we got some real performance figures. Im feeling like i did a right move by cancelling corolla sportivo order and waiting to order the s/c sportivo aurion. It *looks like* it suits AWD perfectly? What sort of poor foundation is that for your conclusions that it is sure to be AWD? As much as i am sure your old man has been with Toyota for eons, i still think it is a little naive to cancel your Stivo order (probably one of the few left in Aus) to wait 6-12 months for a car that may or may not be FWD (would be a tragity if it is, although i wouldnt be suprised) and could more than likely cost double the price of a Sportivo. Also, did you not say in a previous thread that you are only 18? Would a supercharged vehicle not be illegal for you to drive? I think you are basing your conclusions on somewhat insubstantial information, the only REAL evidence you have is Toyota's word that it will rival the XR6 Turbo as Australia's choice performance vehicle and as Northy said, judging by Toyota's performance vehicle track record, they have quite the challenge ahead...

In the proper environment, I have clocked over 200 on my 1zz...it was a flat stretch, didnt take too long, got to i think between 205-210 before i backed off, still had about another 600 rpm left or so, but i would say getting past 220 would be quite the challenge...

Read an article on this somewhere the other day... It is the new replacement model for the Avalon, cant remember the name...Aurion or something? But yes, the engine (also used in the new Camry) is quite the beast, and the supercharged version is tipped to rival the XR6 Turbo as a performance vehicle....

I don't want to argue with anybody and im open to hearing everyone's comments with respect but, You sound like a non-toyota fan which is a first and i think your still forgetting the point that gti is turbo and sportivo isnt, gti is 150kg's heavier and sportivo isn't. Stock standard, gti might be a little quicker but what im trying to say is that, if you put both cars into tuning, i say that sportivo would come out more effective. I've been driving since i was 14. I am young but i am definately not inexperienced. Can you see a gti without a turbo anywhere near good as the sportivo? Because i can't. Ofcourse it's going to take a while for me to get started with the tuning because i don't want to do any mods or even go hard on the throttle before 4-5000 kms. Personally i even think that if the sportivo was a little lower and had 1 size bigger rims, it would look hotter than the 5th gen golf gti. That's just personal opinions but as i was saying, im trying to decide which modification parts im thinking of buying as im still not sure if i should go with a s/c or a turbo, but im leaning more on the turbo. Im definately going 18's from the Fabulous range but the first 2 mods for the car is wheels and some adjustable suspension. I'll paste some pics of the wheels im thinking of buying. Open for all ideas, cheers Buri :) Have to be in agreeance with rollamods here, you sound a bit on the 'missguided' side here mate. Regardless of driving experience, if you are buying a new car, you need to come to an understanding of the potential of the vehicle. The stivo for example...this is a car that comes stock with a reasonable engine, however poor transmission thanks to the clutch issue and i would say somewhat nasty suspension. Take a look at the users on this site as an example - they have not chopped into forced induction mods or engine internals for a reason. That sort of crap is extremely costly for these cars and basically it does not justify when you can get far superior performance cars for the amount of cash you need to sink in the stivo. If you do really care about performance then forget a set of 18's, they are for clowns, they are too heavy unless you have a spare 4k for some Enkeis. Spend the money where you get the most worth, as well as on aspects of the vehicle that are lesser in strength. I mentioned the mediocre stock sussy, a new setup there is a most worthy investment and will greatly improve the drivability of the vehicle. Aftermarket clutches seem to also have gotten a good appraisal. Start of with some basic mods, like intake and slight exhaust mods, so you understand really how the car behaves to modifications. If you are still so naive to think that sinking $10k of forced induction work into a stivo is worth it...go and find some people who really know about cars and they will crucify any super or turbo charged (sub $50k worth of work of course :P ) stivo with a $10k worth mid 90's FWD car varying from older rollas, to Daihatsu Charades. And these older cars will still most definitely outlast the somewhat negligable build quality of the sportivos. This sounds like your first car man, so don't be a clown and go blowing $40k on it after you figure out it doesnt cut it and you can only resell it for $20k. Understand that the stivo will never be an F1 car or a show car, they are good for a bit of a thrash and look the part, but IMHO it isnt worth taking it any further than that. Apologies to seasoned stivo owners on here, they are not as bad as i have made out, but Mr 18s Turbo'd sportivo here needs to understand some basic concepts of vehicle ownership for the car enthusiast.

Mate, IMO those wheels are not cool, too try hard race style. If your car was actually really quick, it might suit, but otherwise... Also, i would be wary of Tempe tyres, they look like top deals...but the wheels they supply are generally mediocre quality and the tyres the supply with the packages are $hit. You are better off paying a few hundred more, getting some decent, long lasting, rice free 17's with a good set of tyres, personally i think the tyre is far more important than the wheel, the wheels are just for looks, don't forget this. If you want something you can jack off over, then buy some 19" chromies (if that is what floats your boat) and some piece of $hit budget tyres that will send into the first telegraph pole you come across once you drive out of the tyre joint.

62000 - brand new February 02, one of the first of the 9th Gen Conquests, still going strong :)

well my source has the fastest 180 in australia .. and his got his own shop also. www.highendracing.com.au .. so his pretty connected.. but he specializes more towards jap cars but his just trying to help me out with the corolla stuff coz its hard to find parts in aus. as most of u guys may know. well as topic described " if rumors are true that they will be inventing PFC for our rollas " i will let u guys know.. if u reckon is BS den i wont tell u if they create it. ;) Well IMHO I don't think anyone really cares whether you say it has been created or not. What matters is if people who are interested in a PFC unit specifically for the Corolla will be able to obtain and tune it or not. I don't think it is BS, however i do find it unlikely, as the Corollas are not exactly performance vehicles (yes, stivo included). Also, pimping information is lame...rumours are lame - unless you know for sure that this unit is being released and would be acquirable by the other users on this forum, as well as be a more efficient means than the methods carried out by both Northy and Xoom, then i would say this information is somewhat redundant.

If it really is made for the Corolla, it shouldnt cost anymore than 2k for fitting and tuning, but i would say around 1800 would be a more reasonable number.

I have custom after market extractors on my 1zz man, but i wouldnt be able to tell you about any power difference based on extractors alone, as i had them done with a full exhaust system. I would like to think the car wouldn't pull as hard without them (4-2-1, very well made) but like i said, i cant isolate the performance increase to the extractors. Maybe Danz (he has wildcat headers i believe) or Pippy would be able to give a better evaluation as to the gains to be made from extractors alone.

i think you need to go to US mate, in his last reply he did mention that Civic Type R cost 10K USD more than RUNX. Haha, I'm in BARBADOS in the West Indies, :D So unless you're coming for the world cup next yr, hehe, I'd have to snap some pictures for you. Its unfortunate that we dont have the same sort of meets like you guys, even though if we did, it would be a whole lot of 20V corollas as they "rule" the streets here. [Power to weight ratio is a b*tch when most of those rollas are 1000kg or LESS :o] I cant tell you how stiff the competition is between the 20V and the Runx'. I've got to be careful sometimes when i see lights appear in the back flashing. Alot of them have got TONS of work done, and one shift out of lift means its OVER... Hehe, that is weak, I don't rate 20Vs at all, so they must have some serious mods over there to give the RunX a good go. I think you need to get serious and look at a Blitz supercharger or at least a good ECU to show these tryhard AE86 clowns how it is done, old school doesnt cut it unless it is a Hemi (and yes 20Vs are old school now, 15 years old now i think)

I think he means PFC's with specific wiring for the corollas, this could be good news :D

Do it? I find it hard to believe a starlet GT was having troubles taking you, even if it was stocko and was only staying in 5th gear, if he had his foot flat, i am sure he could have managed quite easily once it hit boost (if it hadnt already). Unless the Starlet GT turbos dont spool up until late...but i dont think they do... Not bagging your ride or anything here Peter, dont take it the wrong way, but there must have been something wrong with that Starlet, either driver or mechanical

oousss puuhhh oousss puuhhh "Corzza" oousss puuhhh oousss puuhhh "I am your Father"! :D That is quite possibly the nerdiest thing i have ever seen not cool

This CAI looks to be a clone of the AEM intake, although it is 2 piece...Looks like it has the right curvature to fit a 1zz (pre-facelift i can only be sure of)... The only issues you could really have would be that it doesnt fit together or the seals dont cut it, in which case you can simply get a K&N/TRD Pod (assuming the supplied one doesnt fit) and a hacksaw..."modify" the piece that fits onto the throttle body and turn it into a short ram intake, easy :D For probably around $200 it looks like a good deal, however if you want something rock solid, i would be shelling out of a bit more cash for something that is proven to work.

I think it sounds soft compared to the systems we got here, CES sounds better i think and my 1zz cannon job even better at that - much more aggressive . Also i think a CAI is a must on a Stivo, it makes lift that much better, I would rather listen the the engine screaming at those high rpms than a mediocre exhaust that is burning a hole in the atmosphere.

I second (or third ) that...just get some braking skills. As Otaku said, the idea is not to lock up, personally i prefer non ABS as you can push the brakes harder without the anti lock system kicking in. It is just a matter of having the judgement to not let the brakes lock up. Better tires would reduce the chances of lockup, although it would put more wear on your pads. New brake pads are cheaper than new tires though :) If you are really finding it an issue, the ideal solution would be some fatter wheels with some more hardcore tyres (215s) as well as a few runs on the track/empty backstreets to train the skills.

...is a 180 degree drift a spin where you end up facing where you came from?? :P easy to do in a FWD corolla with lift off oversteer in abundance when you're pushing hard, also easy to do in a WRX... I prefer power and handling, no point having one without the other. Thats right :D Although I have never managed to oversteer my 1zz on stock suspension, the SOB just won't lose the rear, instead it will just roll around and/or understeer. Once i get the sussy done in 6 months time it should be easier to do as the chassis will be less prone to roll which should divert the pressure to the tyres. sub11z - I was more referring to my preference in daily driving, moreso than which vehicle i would prefer to take around a track. If you are talking about a track environment, handling is much more fun, because on many tracks you cannot use high powered cars (your insane rex for example).

blah, clearly i have the wrong car, I definitely take preference in power over handling, although I do enjoy a vehicle with good handling, but it means nothing if the car goes like a lawnmower in a straight line. Nothing beats the luxury of being pinned back in your seat when you plant the accelerator, although i do have respect for a nice long 180 degree drift at 100 kmh, which isnt really handling because good handling shouldnt really drift... :P

retarded

Well firstly, i am able to string together a sentence properly, so i already have a leg up on you and secondly, i have done plenty of research on the 1zz and have a slight idea of what i am talking about. Apologies about flaming your manifold, it looks alot like steel to me, but steampipe is what you are after, however did you mean to say it is 3mm thick? Because that is huge manifold piping if only 3mm. Your dyno output isnt bad either. You could up the boost to probably about 8psi reliably as well, probably be needing water injection to reduce detonation chances though. Ideally i would just get the internals rebuilt so you have a better compression ratio to run with. Get some bigger injectors, up the boost and the rev limiter and you are away! (5k+ down the track...) And also i was reading off the "spyderchat" site when judging the ECU so i didnt really note the Power FC, my bad. And also why may i ask all you guys bag the microtech as a 1zz ECU? What is wrong with them? I was thinking about getting one because i can get one quite cheap, otherwise, will probably go PFC.

Hmmm i am not one to normally be critical of such a thing, but mate, i would definitely have done a few things differently. * The wheels - that is rice to the max and you said they scrub at full lock, not cool, go 17s and get some decent rubber on there. * Manifold - I hope you dont plant on keeping this car for long because under boost with stock internals that steel is going to crack and burn like a mofo. * Lasty and most importantly, ECU - how can you wack on a turbo without even changing from factory ECU? That is the first thing you should do, to make sure your internals dont get nailed trying to adjust to the turbo via the standard ECU, get that Mircotech in there quick smart mate. The MR2 is a nice car with lots of potential, be smart and careful about it before you reach for the wallet i say, other than that, nice car :)

vegas