ZEEROLLA

A mate of mine had a Type-R turboed at 5-6 psi with no decompression but has a huge front mount intercooler. Uses Octane boosters all the time but never got to see if anything went wrong with it, because he sold it soon after when he clocked past 10,000kms But i think with an efficient front mount intercooler, 6 psi should still be fine.

A mate of mine had a Typr-R turboed at 5-6 psi with no decompression. Uses Octane boosters all the time but never got to see if anything went wrong with it, because he sold it soon after when he clocked past 10,000kms But i think with an efficient front mount intercooler, 6 psi should still be fine.

Sorry to disturb your private moments boyz but back to the topic, why are the UK T-Sports so much quicker? You are talking 1 full second! I was thinking maybe the launch technique? Weight or weight distribution differences due to less doors? Tyre difference? Different bumper !!?? Still couldn't possibly be 1 second off! We have the same motor right and fuel quality as well. Would love to be able to tell people the Stivo is able to do a 7plus 0-100 instead of an 8 plus 0-100. And that 14.8 quarter would be a joke here because that would make it quicker than the Type-R and 200SX here in Australia... skeptical... Can someone with a STOCK Stivo please prove me wrong and say you could do a 0-100 in the 7s, please! ZEE

Come on NIKICH, i don't recall seeing a Silver Sportivo tearing up the tarmac recently! But to give you the benefit of the doubt, you can tell me where you got the blower fitted so i can go get some details But i would say the supercharger would probably be better than the turbo for engines with lift. But i think forced induction is still for the power hungry people with lot sof cash. I personally would tune it NA. I know a guy in Wollongong who used to drive a brand new Red Integra Type R with approx 5,000kms and he turbocharged it with custom parts. I think he used a Skyline GTS-T Turbo and other custom parts. He took me for ride twice, once before turbo and once after and i can say he wasted $10,000 to make the car undriveable and impractical. It had heaps of torque at around 3000-4000rpm but there is just too much spin and the VTEC satisfaction is no longer there. You wouldn't bother revving the engine anymore and imagine the wear and tear. He was running 5-6 psi on stock compression but don't know the power and torque figure. Worst still its FF and FF cars just can't take that much power especially during cornering. I guess he regretted it and got a 2001 Yellow R34 GTST RWD with $15,000 mods thrown into it. Power= 380+kw and Torque 450+nm with 6-piston Brembos, Bilstein coilovers and carbon fibre bonnet. Now that is worth it. Anyway back to topic, when are you going to take me for a ride? :P

I will be going to Toyota soon with 2 major problems and that is with the gearbox being hard to shift at around 8000rpm and engine not revving past 8000rpm. I was able to do it before so i think it is a problem :( !

I have an 04 Stivo with 2500kms and i had the problem from day 1. Hard to shift whne i get near 8000rpm. Shifting at 7000rpm is fine, and this happens in 1st and 2nd gear. Don't know about the other gears because i never revved it out in 3rd yet, but was told by people to let the gearbox clock a few more kms but apparently you have clocked 20000kms! So i have a problem and now my Stivo won't rev past 8000rpm :( What the hell is going on!

Did you manage to land in lift in 2nd gear? What revs did you go up to in 1st, 8000rpm or 8200rpm? Also are you feeling it hard to shift in lift from 1st to 2nd? My Stivo has around 2500kms and it feels real tight when in lift.. I lifted the thing from day 1 but not on too many occassions. When i clocked a few hundred ks, i did a decent lift run to "run in" the car and had been lifting it quite occassionally since then. Hit the limiter a few times already, just got caught out sometimes, not on purpose

Man, can't wait till peekay posts some dyno sheets or vids of a run in his car :P Ilivfor6, have you raced peekay's Stivo to see how much his car beat yours by? Danthuyer, be sure to let us know about the dyno results!

Nothing done to my Stivo as yet, but beware of big trucks! Never let them pass you on the freeway as they can spray a few pebbles or even rocks onto your car! Your car will end up like it has been sparayed with bullets :(

Yep, i agree the UNICHIP would make a difference, especially in conjunction with other mods. Like Peekay's, he has extractors and CAI so the UNICHIP would fine tune everything and give the best possible output and driveability. Driveability is the key because the tuners can tune the car so that it makes power and torque high up in the rev range but with the 2ZZ-GE, i think most owners would much prefer more torque lower in the rev range :D . Hey Peekay and Ilivfor6, do you know if Croydon Autosports at Silverwater still does UNICHIPS? Or would you be able to recommend a tuner? I live in Shellharbour, the nearest would be Wollongong or Sydney. Thanks! ZEE

Cool peekay, i guess your Stivo can beat the Type R and WRX now with that much more torque and an undisclosed power figure. I would guess you made an extra 15-20kw at the wheels from UniChip, TRD Extractors and CAI. That would make your Stivo produce approx. 160kw and 220nm flywheel figures :o :o Not bad considering no engine mods were undertaken. Probably with cams you would make another 10kw! That will make your Stivo fly around with 6s 0-100! Man, i would love to see you take on an S2000! Just remeber to bring a video recorder along nowadays

Man, sorry about the Stivo but that sounds bad. I am also having trouble with the 1-2 change up. It seems every time i am in lift in 1st and 2nd gear, the shifter tightens up a lot and you have to use a fair bit of force to shift. It is also hard to engage 2nd gear quickly. I crunched 2nd gear twice already and my car has only got 2500kms. Its just so hard to shift into 2nd quickly :( I owned a new car (Civic) before and also a car with rebuilt gearbox (WRX) and they haven't got this problem at all. I thrashed my Civi'c gearbox from about 1000kms onwards and i did crunch many times but never hard to shift out of gear! The WRX had a bulky gearbox but was smooth to shift and had never crunched it, although i i did break 2nd gear. From day 1 i suspected something was wrong but recently on occassions i managed to shift out smoothly while in lift so i just thought it might loosen up after a while. But during those 1-2 shifts, the clutch bite in 2nd gear was weak and the engine was slow to response. I will be bringing it in to Toyota early Monday morning to get some answers regarding the symptoms. Anyway, hope you get your car fixed soon and please let us know what exactly happened. Zee :)

I spoke to man at Rev. Racegear today and he said that if Whiteline manufactured the rear bar for the Corolla, it must have been proven to work This is the same bar used for all Corollas with torsion beam rear suspension. He says they make adjustable bars for the front and rear, and even if it was only an upgrade of 1mm, it would still make a significant difference in rigidity. But i have put the swaybar and urethane bushes on hold for now and will probably get the Strut-Bar & K & N filter first. Have to find out if these bars would void warranty! Imek, as to the urethane bushes, i ordered them from the same store. They are manufactured by Whiteline. Don't know the part no. though. But you can probably find them at the Whiteline Website.

04 Black Sportivo, Illawarra

Hmm, or maybe i should just spend money on lowered springs instead! I will call them up and clarify this with them. If they can guarantee the rear sway bar works then i will go ahead. Otherwise i might just save the money and go for the springs <_< I will still go with the strut brace and urethane bushes though

I think the Honda Civic Hybrid is pretty affordable at AD$29,990. ALso can you guys imagine how much money we would be saving in petrol by getting these cars? I estimate we will be saving around AD$1200-AD$1500 worth of petrol per year if we travel around 20,000km every year. Not bad, plus the added benefit of environmental friendliness!

Any idea where these corollas would be manufactured? SA? And will there be a Sportivo variant with 2ZZ-GE and 6 speed?

Hey Peekay, i haven't received any letter. Did you experience problems with your steering? I am hoping they would recall for the gear selector cables and maybe the shock absorbers though, because these two seemed to be more of a problem

It has been mentioned in car magazines that the cheapest trick to getting a FF car to understeer less is by fitting a bigger rear sway bar. Why? Because weight transfer off the front wheels is dramatically reduced, which means more front-end grip. Also, because body roll is reduced, the outside front wheel has a greater contact patch and therefore more traction. Usually, the front sway bars are bigger than the rears hence tuners recommend to have the rear sway bar upgraded first. Then if you are planning to take the car to the track and would like the stiffest setup, then the front sway bar upgrade would come in. I have also requested to have the rubber bushes at the front changed to urethane bushes so that the front and rear bar would have the same response speed. Zee

I don't think i would be too agressive with the cornering on public roads, don't want to hit the kerbs! Did it once in another car and it wasn't pretty, so i am not too worried about ripping mounts off the rear .

Actually i think the TRD CAI isn't all that bad for $500, because the aluminium pipe costs a bit to custom make to get the filter down in the left corner. ALso the adapter will cost a bit too plus the filter and it can come close to $500 with a K & N cos i got quoted for $300 for a pod in the engine bay. And you can be sure the TRD will come fitting close to perfect. Is that right peekay?

Yeh, that's the rugby guy! I talked about it on another post about this celica. It also had a baby seat done up in the back right? Cool car!!

It all comes down to your budget Karolla The Sportivo is a great little car and a serious BFYB, and as one magazine put it not Mundane or Mundine! So if you are after a TOYOTA, practicality and fun for around +- $30,000 this would be it. I had the same feeling you have when i was going to get the Sportivo. But in the end, i just couldn't find any other car that could match it for performance, fun, practicality and be a TOYOTA. Alternatively, if your budget is around $40,000, i would seriously recommend the base model Honda Accord Euro @ $38,100 driveaway. It will costs at least $5000 more than the Spotivo but its got 6 speed manual, an engine that has 140kw of power @ 6800rpm and 223nm torque @ 4500rpm, hence a fat power band. The car pulls hard from 2000rpm to 7100rpm, with a torque boost at 4000rpm and a power boost at 6000rpm (You can feel the cam change there, but cutsout at 7100rpm :( ) Can do 0-100 in 8.1s (Base model manual). 1/4 mile 15.8s. Has a lot of luxurious equipment. Very very tight and quite car. So quite its like a Mercedes and the storage compartments are all luxury stuff with thick velvet type padding and makes no sound whatsoever when opening and closing them. Handles like a Type-R with very little roll but more composed. Seriously, the double wishbones are fantastic but also because the car was built to European specs. We have a Black Luxury model Euro, Automatic with 5 speed sequential ($44000) in the garage and we have had it for a year with 12000kms. It has as standard 6 airbags, HID headlights like the S2000, electric sunroof, heated leather seats, cruise control, a lot of luxurious storage compartments etc... Honda has spent a lot of time in every little part of the car to make it perfect. I can tell you this is the car i would definitely have gotten if not for my budget of around $30000. So if you really want smething faultless, go the Euro. Forget the Type-R, it will be noisy and squeaky too. The new one will be here in a year or two if you can wait. The Accord Euro is heaps better with superslick 6 speed manual and nearly as quick as the Type-R The Sportivo is a very different car. A younger car. If you drive the Euro, you will feel like the 30s at least. So go test drive and let us know which car you gonna get p.s. sorry guys if i have been going over and over about the Honda, but just to be fair to this new guy you know, i thought i would add my opinions :)

Not yet NIKICH, still waiting for the parts to come in. Will let you have a look at my car when its done Yeh, they do have a lot of racing gear. They are actually sponsors for a lot of the professional races out there and at their old store i actually saw "Skaife" once if i have not mistaken . That was like 4 years ago when they were located further up north. But they do charge a little more for labour <_<

Yes, i have heard of people going for bigger front bars and have difficulty steering the car, and it can create problems such as knocking or squeaking noises. It is cheaper than the rear swaybar though costing the same as the strut brace @ $179. The rear swaybar cost $215 and strut brace $179. All up less than $400. The Whiteline Springs that lower 40mm costs $320 and another $150 to fit. I also got a quote for the K & N panel filter that goes into the stock airbox. It costs $130, but if i wanted a pod style like the UNIFILTER Ram pod it will costs me approx. $300 which is in par. I was also told Revolution Racegear used to stock TRD parts. They still have bits and pieces left like radiator cap which costs $75 !!!! A standard one costs $7.50 I guess that cap is meant for racing purposes. Anyway, you guys can ask around because some places still store good TRD parts. Might get lucky with the CAI or something. By the way Peekay, did your Toyota dealer void your warranty after you installed your TRD stuff? How do you find the TRD stuff working? I am expecting them to be of a very high quality and make a difference to the car. Thanks B) ZEE :D