-DAvo

maybe ask your toyota dealer what brand of oils they use... i recently had mine serviced and as always i asked them to use fully synthetic oils... turns out they use mobil 1 fully synthetic oil. for the cost of the toyota advantage service ($130.00 cap) i only paid a little bit more for the use of the oil... which is normally close to $100.00 from the shops??

M205 and M105 are the best combo you can get and achieve the best results with your G200/Megs DA. I still have my 105/205 half full eventhough i've used it thousands of times its ridiculous. just doesnt seem to run out. Megs Aust sell M105/205 here but its still currently a non DA approved version, in which case when you do use it with a DA, its a tad hard to rid the residue. id have to agree with the 205.. best stuff ive used... however i do disagree on the non da approved statement... i ordered mine through repco here in perth and it is the current bottle, with instructions for use with DA? wixy - id be interested to hear what your take on m16 is... from all accounts on the MOL forums it seems to be a great wax, but discontinued and hard to find a place that will ship it internationally....

good luck jeff :) IMO also try and colour code your mud guards... so so happy i got mine done. looks 100 times better! more so on the lighter colours :)

Hey everyone sorry for what seems to me like a really noobie question, but im just a bit confused here regarding tyre pressures.. now when i got my new rims and tyres, the guys at bridgestone suggested i run 40psi for the size im rolling on (215/55 R17) then other people are saying to run 35-37psi... some even less! so my question here is, for those of you running the standard sportivo wheels (215/55 r17) what tyre pressures do you run? as im unsure if i run too low pressures, i will increase tyre wear, run too high and i also risk increasing tyre wear! i experimented tonight and ran 40psi in the front wheels and 38psi in the rear - down from 41 in both front and rear. im not sure if it was a placebo effect but the ride certainly felt better (lowered on pedders springs)... any input will be greatly appretiated.. thanks dave

or mine :( not that ive done much to mine anyway :P :P

is this the same as a K&N kit Daryl? If not, how come you didnt just get that kit? as you have used it before with no problems? or is it a different kit altogether for the TRD?

nice BRIDE dirver seat!! B)

yep i found the stock dunlop tyres, with NO sound extra sound deadener was pretty noisy. once i had dynamat in front and rear doors, rear boot, rear shelf done, it quietned down a fair bit. then i had the 17's with adrenalin tyres fitted and it turned silent.. :)

Just as I thought.. Hahah. I wonder if the existing holes of sportivo spoiler can be used to bolt on the ducktail. im not worried about it coming off, as its still solid on the boot, just dont like the idea of water getting into that area.. will silicone it up and see how it goes.

just a bit of a revival here, has anyone with the ducktail here noticed that the double sided tape dettaches itself after a while exposed to rain? mine has, even thou i have a big bead of sikaflex underneath running along the centre of the spoiler... is this a cuase for concern? im thinking of sealing up the edges with clear silicone sealant...

probably, so long as tyou dont use it inside... the ammonia attacks your window tint... if you really wnt the best sort of "rain resistance" i would strongly recommend you to: 1. clay window/wipers. 2. apply auto glym glass polish 3. apply rainX 4. make sure you buff all the rainX off, or it will leave ugly streaks 5. top up your washer fluid with rainX washer additive. 6. sit back and laugh whilst you drive along the fwy in a rain shower, and realise your NOT using your wipers! :)

Hey Davo! Did you managed to do it? not yet, still waiting... :( should hopefully have something to show for it by next friday (fingers crossed)

did you clean your windows after claying?? wouldnt be suprised if you got the streaks after claying if you didnt follow up with some sort of glass cleaner... generally after i clay my car i give it a quick wash before i start the buffing...

maybe not so much as a spare part issue but just on the general assembly... the fuel flap on my car has never sat flush with the body, have tried bending it back and the panel shop i go to has attempted it too... they said most cars have bolts that you can undo/adjustbut toyota have opted for rivits! (????) so looks like i will need a fuel flap sometime... im afraid to even ask for warrenty, as i tried a while ago with the issue of my steel wheels causing the carf to bounce A LOT. took toyota 3 attempts at me driving the service manager ands then the SALES manager in the car until they admitted that the steelies were buckled... another 6 weeks for them to order in new steelies as well... generally they spare parts at a different toyota dealer here in perth are really good. so i will stick with them. they do however have problems findind the part numbers for the sportivo pedal/foot rest... as i want to get some in mine.... anyone have an idea? sorry to go offtopic :P

ive got 6000k in mine, i find that its only "blueish" during the intital fire up, (mine goes from a tinge of green to blue then to white) once it fired up its pretty much a white light, with a very slight blue tinge which i can sometimes see on the top of my cut off.

Just on this topic, in your particular situation - IF you are only planning on waxing your car every few months, then i would suggest you use a SYNTHETIC based car wax. Those who have read my previous posts know i will recommend meguiars, in particular NXT tech wax 2.0 reason for recommending this product: 1. Synthetics WILL protect your car surface longer than a carnuba based wax 2. NXT 2.0 will do wonders on a white car! NXT is my primary winter wax and my base layer of wax during summer. on lighter coloured cars it really brings out the gloss and reflection... as mentioned before by DJKOR, a good wash, clay, and wax is the bare minimum needed to get your car slicked up :) the swirl removing and polishing steps should be used if needed. normally with the quality of waxs nowadays the polishing step is very much a optional step. you will find that a lot of consumer branded waxes will also have some very minor "filling" ability to "hide" the light swirls in your paint good luck :)

probably, try looking online at places like autogeek.com or something similar. i know you can buy them seperately overseas... in singapore the meguiars clay kit included a hardcase to carry the claybar in, lubricant, AND a meguiars microfibre cloth!! THAT was a bargain. at 34SGD

are you breaking the claybar down into smaller parts? i can get a good 6 months out of 1 clay bar... i cut it into 3's... and resuse as well if the car isnt too bad... important thing is to seal it back up (i use gladwrap reseaable bags) after use, and give it a spray of detailer before storing... IMO paying for a new claybar kit every 6 months is acceptable... or if you mean the lubricant, you can buy it seperately for like 15 bucks..

is that the one on alexander drive?? if so im always around there! the missus lives in ballajura :P might have to come by sometime for pizza! yeeoow!

i wouldnt wax your windows, if youre after water beading off your windows, try using rainx... even claying the windows increases the water beading ability of the windows... the most i have used was meguiars ultimate quik detailer on the windows but found that it didnt last very long on the glass...

thanks for the heads up B)

im currently in the process of doing this mod to mine (we're waiting on the particular style of LED to arrive from china), and im in perth too... will keep you in the loop as to how it goes ;)

OK so i have installed the UR front strut tower bar, will report back on the effect (if any) the front bar has. Have the RSB sitting here waiting to be installed, will attempt to get it done on the weekend.

the only thing that will regularly be run when the car is not running is the headunit, as i watch movies while waiting to pick the missus up from work (approx 20-30mins max) thanks for your input Hiro :)

i run a pioneer headunit in my aurion and i ran a pioneer unit in my corolla previously. however If i was goin a single din then i would choose the alpine... as mentioned in the thread, your setup also has a big part to play, such a wiring, amps, speakers etc etc i like the alpine for the fact that you can use their "IMPRINT" technology to tune the sound. Might be all ****, but having sat in a few cars with alpine set ups, i was blown away. have you considered saving a bit more and looking at the 9887 or the pioneer PRS headunit series?