Andrew357

The numbers listed in the guide has barely changed (in terms of how much), Solaraguy is still the place to look, ASG14 is probably still the person to chat to for help, GLP Motorsports is a mob I still wouldn't deal with, the installation manuals posted has not changed or been updated since then; so it will still come down to your technical prowess. The 1mz-fe ECU hasn't been updated since the original post so you won't need a tune.

Given the Gen4 and Gen5 do not use a H7 bulb, what does this have to do with buying a Camry?

There is a some difference between the Altise/Ateva VS Sportivo in stock form; with respect to parts. From what I know, the differences are: - Stiffer spring rates on the Sportivo (front and rear, V6 and 4-cyl) - Stiffer shocks on the Sportivo (front and rear, V6 and 4-cyl) - Front strut brace on Sportivo. From memory, the Altise and Ateva did not get the brace from factory standard. There may be others but in terms of driving it makes for a big difference between the classes. I've driven a friend's 4cyl altise and it's a significantly softer drive compared to the Sportivo.

If people are awesome for owning an Aurion, there are plenty of awesome people about. The Aurion is a great car but lets not get too ahead of ourselves.

Possibly yes. With a few minor changes.

Not gonna lie. That's pretty cool!

The fuel filter (also referred to as the 'sock') strains junk before it gets into the fuel pump. if out have done enough mileage, it will be clogged/restricted which will affect economy and the smoothness and speed of acceleration. Just get a genuine filter and the locking ring which holds it to the bottom of the pump. It is not expensive.

If that is the case then, you are simply filling he tank closer to it's capacity (ie when you aggressively fill the tank and it triggers the stop signal, it isn't truly full as you don't press the lever again simply cause you assume it is full). That has nothing to do with economy as you simply have more fuel to burn which will give you more mileage. Changig the fuel filter is probably the only thing you can do yourself (and worthwhile in terms of time). Edit: Since when did a bowser pump, pump air? Edit: A cold morning has the potential to give you more fuel as it has the potential to be more dense; but bundled with the tanks being in ground and quite sizeable the gains will be close to 3/10 of bugger all.

Read through the thread.

^ That is all in your minded

Perhaps. Not sure at this stage.

Replace the fuel pump filter, clean the injectors, put on a set of headers and you will see your economy drop by about 2-2.5L/100km

Unless you are doing some serious driving, replacing the control arm bushes with poly bushes (instead of the rubber ones) is a waste of money and NVH. Get a suspension place to do the work for you. Just replace the bushes.

I didn't say don't buy them. I just said i think they look hideous. He asked for an opinion.

I think that just about does it.

Since you're desperate: I think they look awful. There are much better looking rims that suit a gen 5.5

Putting spacers on your vehicle will make it defectable as it is not legal.

Declared value is under 1000au so you shouldn't be charged any import duties.

Just got your latest. Assuming you don't go wider than 8 and keep the same overall diameter, you can run a 19/20*8 and have less rubber instead but you will lose some comfort going past 18"

Don't forget import duties and postage as well. I think you misunderstood my message: Stock springs: 18*8, 38+, 225/45/18 = ok Low springs: 18*8, 38+, 225/45/18 = ok Super low springs: 18*8, 38+, 225/45/18 = need to roll your guards Biggest issues will come if you run staggered rim offsets to get 'flushness'. The rims you have selected will be fine as long as you don't go to super low springs. If you do then you will have to get your guards rolled.

That looks really good man.

Huh? Yes you can.

I run 235/40/18 (18*8, 40+) and my rear tyres rub against my struts. Not a major issue but they do. The fronts are fine. If you want fitment with 18"s you will need to run a staggered setup. Assuming you stay at 8", 35+ and 30+ for the rear. the fronts will be marginally poking out (which apparently is the thing) but the rears will be tucked in by a fraction. If you do this however and lower the car, you will need to have your guards rolled as the inside of the tyre will rub on the rear and your fronts may get close. You would probably need to adjust your camber (no ready kits available) in your rear as the body of the wheel arch would demolish your tyres.

The 36 series did not come with a cabin filter.