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dutchie101

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Everything posted by dutchie101

  1. Maybe go to your local Toyota spare parts counter and get the part numbers from them? Seems the most logical thing to do.
  2. Hey'all. JDM Tail light switch guide No "rice" comments this time please This is an awesome JMD style tail light switch. Your parkers are now in the middle of the taillight, making the rear look tight and thin. Not that there is anything wrong with tight asses B) Now typical JDM style is to make the rear look fatter, wider and more full... I am talking about the rear of the car still, trust me :) Your brake light is in the middle as standard. Not cool, not fat. This guide swaps these two lights around, moving the parkers to the outside, widening the look of the rear, and moving the brakes to the center, making them shine brighter upon illumination also. The finished swap will look like this. Sorry for the over exposed pics but you get the idea: Now lets start. 1. TAIL LIGHT REMOVAL Now, before you go cutting anything, i can tell you that the swap can be made without extending the wiring. You can stretch the wiring to reach, it will make it with some serious stretching, but puts a lot of strain on the wiring and associated sockets, not good. I opted for a simple extension of the parker wires. This tech goes through the extension process. First step is simple, remove the rear tail lights. All you need is a 10mm ring spanner or 10mm double ended spanner and a largish flathead screw driver and a pair of needle nose pliers if you like. OK,open the access panels found in the rear corners of the boot space. You will see two protruding bolts, one near the bottom and one towards the top. Both with 10mm nuts on them, loosen and remove these, dont drop the nuts or you wont see them ever again :) Next, you will see two blue clip tabs. The bottom clip has tabs can be squeezed in to free up the clip, and the top one is a little harder. Use the screwdriver to squeeze the bottom tab of the top clip, and then postion the screwdriver above the clip to push down on the clip and 'squeeze the clip top free the light. You will see what i mean when you try it. Unclip the loom plug and now you have your lights free. Yay! This is the standard setup for the left tail light: 2. LIGHT SWAP AND EXTENSION Ok, now undo both globes, and move the brake to the center hole. Good stuff. Easy. Now get two wires for extending the parker, around 10cm is fine. You will need 4 wires all up, 2 for each side. Neatly snip the parker wires in the middle, giving you plenty of room to move. Strip the wires back around 10-15mm. Twist the corresponding wires together, the loom side first, solder and slip over 2 pieces of heat shrink per wire. Neatly solder the joins. Again twist the plug side wires together with the extension wires, solder and slip the heat shrink over both joins and heat with heat gun or lighter to shrink. repeat with the other wire. Options other than solder Just checked out the Narva range. I dont know how good these are, but its worth putting them up for those that can or don't solder their joints. Narva cable joiners - item 56056BL i think Narva solder splice - item 56382 should be good Narva heatshrink terminals/joiners - item 56350 should be right Some of these come in a pack of 50 or 25. Prob more than you need. Last option is to drop into you local auto electrician, they should do it for 20 bucks or so. You should now have nice and neat extension of those parker wires. Simply slot that parker into the outer housing and your done. Like this: Tuck away those extended wires, replace the light, clip in, do those nuts up and away you go. Repeat for the other side and you done! PS: I changed the 5W T10 globes in the parkers to 8W T10 globes. I had these spare after changing my map globes for flux type 9x led T10's. Hope this all made sense and enjoy your plump ZRE!!
  3. Stephen I used 5050 SMD's, 30cm in length. See link to ebay store at the start of the thread. :) Ill try to get a pic of the rear positioning, bit hard but ill see what i can do. Basically its the flap of material thats under the seat. As for colour, they are pretty cheap, just get 4 of each colour and try em out. Be warned, the blue is very bright :o Or you can custom blend you colours. Simply run one of these in line before your first SMD strip. SMD RGB CONTROLLER You will need to run RGB SMD stips, and change up to a 4 wire extention for the rear. To control these you need to run the 4 pin plugs. If you look around ebay you will find the RGB SMD strips with the controller or separate. Im sure you will find a colour you like :)
  4. As i cant fit any more pics on the first thread, Ive attached this here, If your not keen on cutting or stripping the factory wiring, you can make a piggy back plug set to breech between the plug are are getting power from and the cluster. You will need to source some plugs the same as the factory one (as ive already installed mine, i havent tried to track any down) Both a male and female plug. Simply make up a simple "extension loom" run the wiring the same, but splice into the power wires we need, and connect in between the factory male and the cluster board. Like this: The two black wires head off to the SMD's. This Pic has one wire missing, not sure if its an older model or its a ZR thing. Anyways, you get the idea. Now no more nasty looks from your toyota technician when you go in for any electrical faults :) Edit: I think i found the toyota part numbers for the plugs: Plug (female) 90980-10796 Wiring (for the female) 82998-12330 Bottom two single connectors (male) 90980-10797 Wiring (for the male) 82998-12340 Just check with your parts supplier but i think thats right.
  5. I think it was around AU$30 bucks postage. I applied the tint to one rear ZRE152 light today, and didnt like it. Its not the films fault, just the pinkish reverse light and indicator lens made a weird brown with the tint film. Might try "red out" next time, see how that does. I dont think the pinkish lens will make the red go weird.
  6. Ah, we ever had neons back in my P days. Sheesh, i must be gettin old! :)
  7. LOL!! :D The blue is a little crazy i will admit that :P , originally i was going to use the amber or red, but the blue 5050 SMD's were far brighter and came with the plug n play wiring, so as long as i have the wiring in place i can change colour at anytime easily with other 5050 SMD's from the same supplier. Still, coming from a JDM/Drift/VIP background, ive never really herd the term "rice" before i started on these forums. I must be getting old. Now Fast and furious,well.... dont get me started!! Is it the colour that make it "ricey" or the mere fact that i have illumintaed footwells? My Beemer has em stock.
  8. Just like rims, lowering and bodykits huh?.... this is an JDM option from toyota. ....coming from a 29yr old guy with "how to attract women" link on his profile page. Now thats funny :)
  9. Just letting you all know, Metro Decals has great service and quick turnaround time. My items were shipped and arrived here in 4 days. :)
  10. Finished, did the rears as well. Can really take any more pics of the install, cause its tight in there, but i can explain it. Ill edit the original post, please scroll up for more info. :)
  11. Just talked to Toyota Spare parts. Had a squiz at an indicator... Looks like the indicator is a clip in, slide forward or back (cant remember) to release. Thing is, i was planning on replacing the stock orange bulbs with stealth chromed t10's. Unfortunately, this isn't possible as the bulb/indicator is one piece now, you cant actually replace the bulb at all. So if it blows, your up for around AU$80 odd for the whole replacement unit. Spewin....
  12. I got a quote from CH toyota, High Response Muffler Ver.S SeriesMS153-12002 (17400-ZE500) AU$795
  13. Correct, Ive got mine here, The "S" spec rear skirt. Its the same as the "M" spec but with the exhaust filler panel. I ordered the "S" spec rear skirts, thing is, they only sent me the rear skirt, no panel!! Just waiting for decisions to be made and see when the panel is getting sent out. The "M" spec looks like it isnt finished, it needs the exhaust panel like the "S" spec. I opted for "M" front skirts and "S" rear. Heres a pic of the "M" spec rear skirt, Cant wait for the panel.
  14. Phillips BlueVison in my Beemer were far better than the stockers. Vision was greatly improved and the light traveled much further distance wise. The beemer ran 3X H11, the main being a projector lens. I was planning to run 34w 4300k HID system on the ZRE foggies, but bailed on the idea due to the glare issues. Im now waiting for my H11 Crystal visions. Hopefully they will match the factory ZR HID's. All round i was greatly impressed with the BlueVisions. Im wondering if the type of globe has to do with different reports people are giving?
  15. Heya, Just wondering if anyone has removed their indicator light to replace the bulb? Are these double sided tapped on?? or do the slide forward to unclip? from a quick look, they feel double sided onto the panel. In the manual, it recommends toyota to replace these.... Any one have any tips? Cheers
  16. I know you didnt want to buy OS, but DecalFX or MetroDecal In the US are good, proper tint films, nice and flexible under a hot air gun . Even "red out" film for an all red taillight set up. I just got some smoke out for the rear of the ZRE154. Many years ago i tried using normal window tint and found it a PITA, didnt go around curves well even under heat. From Metro Decals: "Blue Film: 80% Light Transmission Light Blue Film: 90% Light Transmission Smoke (Dark) Film: 78% Light Transmission Smoke (Light) Film: 92% Light Transmission Yellow Film: 78% Light Transmission Light Yellow Film: 90% Light Transmission " Not too bad prices either.
  17. Thats a bit racist isnt it? tut tut.... :( They arnt chrome either, thats a polished or machined lip with what looks like polished centres or straight alloy. No chrome here. Deep dish yuk? <_< Dif strokes for dif folks.
  18. Saw these awesome rims, Im looking for more VIP style, but these are killer. Anyone know what they are?? maybe Gram Lights 57FPRO.. D
  19. Good stuff whitey1212, I was going to do the rears also. Where did you run the rear wires? down the center console area? under the carpet?
  20. Ok, had a fiddle around while i was bored... Hers a rough copy of the install/sorting out the wiring so far. Well, just finding the wiring associated with the internal lighting really. Removal of the Glove box cover: 1. Remove the door suspension part, just pulls off in the direction shown. 2. Pull the lower part of the door towards you to release the hinges, easy as. It will snap out of place. This will expose the wiring cluster behind the glove box.... The Cluster: Finding what we are after.. Note the plug to the left of the cluster, with 3 white/pink striped wires and 1 solid blue wire. This is the internal lighting control wiring. The Power Source: Here are the power wires. Tested with a multimeter and these are def the ones that run the dome lights. Blue= (+)Positive, White/pink (-) negative. These are the ones you are going to want to tap into. Use scotch locks if you like, probably the best and safest way. I would recommend running a fuse in line also, i dont think it would be needed but just in case. Ill edit this post and continue the instal when i get my SMD strips in a week or so.... -=+ Install Continued +=- I opted to use the 5050 SMD strip, from KennethStore88 on ebay. Man these are nice and bright. After receiving a few other types in the mail, these shat over all the others. Much bigger SMD chips. They are also connectible, ie can connect them in series, which makes things easy. These come with connection wires also. Just cut the plug end off and away you go. Also, due to these having pins/plugs, you can change the colours at any time, just unplug and plug in your new colour. Easy as, no soldering or re-wiring. Ok. Now you want to either use some of those dodgy scotch locks to splice into the two wires mentioned above, or strip a little insulation off and solder some wires to the dome wires. You can use some small gauge speaker wire if you like more length to play with. Run the 'marked" wire with the "+" wire so you know which one is power all the time. I soldered the SMD connector wires straight to the Dome power and negative wires. Be sure to check the SMD strip is working before you solder reverse the polarity if it doesnt. So essentially you want to connect the first 5050 SMD strip. Test is working and thats it for now. Dont stick it up under the lower glove box yet. Leave it on. Take two of the cables that come with the SMD's, cut both plugs off, Join the wires(be sure to get the polarity correct) using 1) Solder and shrink wrap or 2) twist and tape well. Solder is by far the best option. You could use joining terminals too i spose. IF your going to do rear footwell lights as well, you will need to splice in speaker wire here, when joining the two connection wires. Around 1.5m will do, that way you'll have plant to play with. Front only diagram Plug )=============== Join==============( Plug Front and Rear: Plug)==============T T==================( Plug Speaker wire========/ / (Speaker wire splice in, hope that makes sense) Now connect the socket of the newly made cable to the back of the first SMD strip. Then take the other socket of the new cable, and connect your second SMD strip. If all goes well, they should both be glowing profusely. :) Excellent. Now its just a matter of fiddling through the cable we have just made, either using a wire/coat hanger wire or the 2nd SMD strip itself through behind the dash/stereo unit till you see it over near the drives side. I went up near the air condish foot outlet, theses a nice gap there.I actually pushed the glowing SMD strip through, made it easy to find :). I also removed the lowest panel under the steering wheel, there is two screws and one click tab in the middle. With this removed you have easy access to find you cable.. Pull it through. Now find where you want to put the SMD strips. This is where i placed them: Passenger Side: (dont worry about stickin it on an uneven surface, it's fine. Any further bak and you could see it, i wanted mine hidden.) Drivers side: (again, due to the weird shapes down here, stick it where you like) Now tuck the wires neatly out of the way, and there you go, stage one complete! :) REAR FOOTWELL LIGHTS: This is a little more tricky. If you spliced in you speaker wire when you joined the two SMD strip connectors, you should have a length of wire sitting in the passenger footwell right about now. Run it down passenger side of the console in the footwell, you can flex the console a little here. Then run the wire the length of the console, tucking it between the carpet and the console. Remove the Middle console glovebox. 4x10mm bolts will be found under the carpet liner in the console. Undo these. Next lift the rear of the handbrake rubber surround, it should snap up. The front sides are a little harder to remove, lift the rear and you will see little tabs toward the front and a gap to fit a screwdriver. Put a cloth or credit card on the console, and pry up those gaps to release the front clips. Youll see what i mean when you do this. Unplug the lighter and unscrew the other 10mm screws. Lift out the console. Now pick up the speaker wire,and continue tucking till you up to the handbrake. You are going to want to splice this wire, so strip the ends, and join the remaining SMD strip cables to these. You may actually be one SMD cable short due to joining two earlier. You can just order another cable when you get the SMD's or i had a joiner with mine, so i soldered another speaker wire to the first and third pin. So essentially you will have the feed speaker wire, split off to two positives and two negatives for the SMD's. If youve got his far you know what i mean :P Plug in the the SMD's to see they both light up. If they do all good, if not check polarity again. I tried to pickup the airbag wires under the seats, but couldnt track them back to the console easily, and i didnt want to accidentally fire them so i opted to punch a small hole in the carpet on each side, near the rear seat mount. I fed a small hard plastic tube thru the hole up to the opening in the console area and taped on the SMD cable to the tube, and pulled it back thru to bring the cable out under the seat. (dam i hope that makes sense!) I recommend you cover the wire with that automotive black corrugated wire protection. Bring it up under the seat and leave it hang rear the rear, toward the console. Position you SMD's and plug in, find the right spot for them and stick up under the seat on the material, they stick quite well. Check for free play in the wire, at bothe extensions of the seat, fully clode and way back. Now neaten up your wiring, making sure that there is no way it can get caught up in the handbrake mechanism. Replace the center console glovebox and connect the lighter, clip back in the handbrake surround. Ok, so you should have a set of operative front footwell lights and if you opted rears as well. All good :) YAY!! This is just a guide, and i wont be held accountable for any screw ups, so please be careful, test all your connections before soldering and check your SMD strips are all working before running the cables. Heres a quick pic of the passenger footwell, during the day!! Ill get some shots tonight of the footwells. :) Over and Out, D Thanks to Whitey1212 for the hints.
  21. Not sure on the rules of posting sources, but i found these SMD blue strips from Honkers, Ebay SMD Blue 30cm Only AU$8 landed for 2 X 30cm, 15 SMD per strip. Pretty cheap. Ideal for the job at hand. I also picked up 4X30cm amber SMD strips from the US, only US 2c and bout ten buck post. Might even graba set or reds while im at it, but im more keen on blue/ambers. Red 30cm 15 SMD strips KennethStore88 has various sized SMD's in strips. Just noticed this after purchasing mine. Ah well, if they arent bright enough i know where to go now :) 2 bucks whatever! Ill hook up both to see which one i like when they arrive. If they prove popular, i might make up sets if anyone's interested, but its pretty straight forward.
  22. Thanks MasterC, I had found that a few weeks ago also, i just didnt know what colours he had removed from that install procedure. I assume we are taking about the lower glove box? as there are two there. When i get my SMD's ill do a quick write up with pics if someone doesn't beat me to it.. What colours are other people going for? Amber to match the rest? Not sure if the blues would match well, they may do tho, after all, thats what Toyota offer as an extra. Cheerin.
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