CAP

Awesome! B)

Also have to consider the different gear ratio's too, similar but I think the 6 speed ratio's are shorter from 1st onwards.

That was my understanding that Toyota designates it's economy engines as FE and performance as GE, If there's a turbo the FE or GE will be split by a T to make it FTE or GTE and if its supercharged it becomes FZE or GZE. But in answer to your question, I think they would perform roughly the same below 6100rpm.

yes the acceleration is more fluid and the engine response is better. Pratically you have a dinamic aspiration and always with a fresh air, instead of the cai that give you warm air when you are in the traffic (for example B) ) So what stops your pipe from sucking hot air in traffic? Cause isn't it in the same place as a proper CAI Italian is his first language, so it's getting lost in translation, I think he's referring to it working better than an SRI not a CAI.

Lucio is coming he has no choice :P http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...mp;#entry134864

Actually my car made 1.5 more kw this way with the snorkle removed, but the difference is in the driving and comparing one graph to the other, the engine comes on power slightly earlier (So the whole curve on the graph has moved to the left) and the AFR was smoother too. For a $O cost mod it's well worth it.

Very Nice :D

So listen to the advise of a know it all idiot remove your cat and then get a nice fine from Police officers who are better trained than ever to know what to look for Hi-Flow cat's really don't cost all that much, so, if you wish to replace the standard with after market one go for it, but keep in mind lucio's comment and look at the gain v money spent equation and you'll see it's not really worth while on a Corolla.

You'd have to ask someone who has one.

A clutch is a part you cant modify, you can only change it over. On most cars the standard clutch will be soft and less durable to make it more user friendly. When you change a clutch over for performance reasons, you usually upgrade to a heavy duty clutch (And pressure plate) which is more durable and will last longer in situations such as drag strip, hard take offs etc etc. Most people seem to use Excedy.

Not to mention the rotten exhaust smell

FTW you say ... <_< Ok... maybe this aerial shot of a small stretch of road will get more interest... B)

Lookin nice :D

And there he was on Saturday saying he didn't want it to be any lower.... Yeah sure.... :D

As a trade in - Probably around 13-14k. I was bored one day earlier this year and asked how much of a trade in I could get on my Conquest with at the time 29,000km's and was told 16k.

Ohh was that your car? Damn Opps sorry :P Funniest thing I saw in Europe was that people zip-tie (Electrical Cable Ties) their plastic wheel covers to the steel wheel so they don't get stolen. You can't help it, if someone wants somethings - they'll take it!

Omn1potent has a bra (Only on the car as far as I know :P ) and it actually looks ok.

Melbourne City Toyota have been good to me so far - Tony always looks after me.

Open to all :D

Depends on your budget... A replacement filter such as the K&N (I recommend BMC) will make the car a little more driveable and probably give you about 1kw difference. This will be about $100-$150 depending which you get. A CAI of some sort have been found to make the car more driveable again and will give you approx 5kw difference in total power (Just depends what you get - there's a few options out there now). This are about $250-$450 depending which you get. An Axle back muffler will give you more power (Stay away from cheapo cannons) and can be anywhere from $300-$850. A Cat-back exhaust will give you even more and will be around $650 - $1200 A set of extractors/headers or porting existing headers can set you back approx $300 - $800. I consider all these to be light mods as your not really touching the motor, but it just depends on what you want to spend and what you want from the car. On my Conquest as an example, I just wanted a little more poke and a nice exhaust note, and didn't want to worry about epa or fitment problems etc etc, so I fitted a Remus rear muffler ($850) and a BMC Airfilter ($150) and removed the stock snorkle from the airbox, Nice improvement all round and it pulled 79KW ATW. Compare this to Danz Car who has a full exhaust system and an AEM CAI and his car pulled over 85kw ATW on the same day (But has done over 90kw ATW before) Although it doesn't seem like much of a difference on paper - his car has quite superior torque meaning on the road his car eats mine up. So just decide what you want from the car and what your willing to spend

If the car performs the way you like on the road, then you should be happy and ignore the Dyno result. Also - never heard of a Dyno Operator performing only a single run with no ventilation. Most Dyno Operators will run at least 3 times consecutively with most cars achieving best results on the last run after the car has opened up :D

If there is interest, I will organise and show you some of my favourite roads/twisties... Older members will remember some of the roads when I organised a similar cruise a year or two ago.

The K & N will give you better, sharper throttle response, not really a difference in outright power though.

Melbourne: Silver Pre-Facelift Sportivo with Ski Racks on the roof on blackburn road this morning.

I detect alot of frustration in this thread, everyone just shag and get it over and done with :P