CAP

I'll just keep driving my gutless econobox shopping trolly thanks. It doesn't matter what car you're driving, if you really know how to drive it, it becomes a performance car. Sh!t I still put people to shame in my VH Commodore wagon too!

On my current tank full (98 Octane) I achieved 200km's from quarter tank driving gently, then (I just can't drive gently!) driving hard the rest of the time I've done 480km's with a quarter tank still remaining.

Personally I liked the recent Wheels Magazine WASP test, that tested Australia's top selling cars in terms of passive safety. They tested Dry & Wet Breaking, Dry and Wet Cornering (Lateral G) as well as Overtaking ability (Exposure time on the wrong side of the road). Corolla finished 3rd overall and had the best wet breaking result. Mazda 6 finished 1st. It gives a good indication of a car's ability to actually avoid an accident and the Corolla did quite well.

If they bring in Ascents Conquests and Levins from Japan, I don't see why they can't bring in the Sportivo at a competitive price, even if price goes up by $1k or $2k, it'll still be good value.

People buy what's within their own means and within their own preference.

yeah i know dude shouldve been the first thing i did before anything. but its on the cards and should have it done soon.(hopefully) ← Just Joking Dude :D

If you want the nicer standard interior etc go the Levin, otherwise save the $7K and get an Ascent Sport, they're virtually identical externally in post facelift models. Check Northy's car it's an Ascent Sport.

;) Driving in the wet is good for honing skills, if u can be smooth and get traction swiftly in the wet, you're good to go hard in the dry.

Interesting, from what it says, it can basically turn any car into a Petrol-Electric Hybrid, but with the electric motor working with the Petrol Motor to give you more power. I can't see the charge from the small Super Capacitor lasting long enough to give you more power constantly and I think the extra power would be cancelled out by the extra weight of the whole system. Nice thinking though and perhaps something we'll see as standard on future cars once it's more refined

Eddy your car looked nice at the meet love the new wheels. But for humanities sake, LOWER IT :P

When it comes to tyres I really would save a bit more and go for something better than Nankang tyres. Owners have stated that they wear quite quickly and also delaminate prematurely. You may save on your initial purchase a get a set of 4 for $480.00, however may end up only getting 15,000 km's from them. Then you would be up for another set. Or you can spend $1,000 on a set of better quality tyres which will last you 30,000km's or more. My Falkens which were approx $1,000 when I purchased them nearly 3 years ago have done 26000 km's (I don't shy away from twisties) but still have a good amount of tread left. I'm estimating they should get me close to 40,000 km's which isn't bad for a W rated tyre. So IMHO Tyres are one of those things you can't be cheap with. Spend a bit more and your car will stop, corner and ride better as well as get more km's from a set.

:o What happened to the gearbox ? Warranty?

I just use Optimax for the reason that the better mileage offsets the higher price plus when you factor in the 4c discount the car is running better for the same cost in the end. :) Oh and here's a little test for you. It's hard to tell the difference when running higher octane fuels in your car right? Try running your lawnmower on 98 RON, you can really see the difference in power!

And Voila! you just spent more than what the car is worth so you might as well have actually bought a $40k car that will go alot better than a $20k car with $20k spent on it.

But, But, But... what does CAI stand for ? :P

wat if it's from the dealers? :P ← :D That's Totally acceptable :P

The way I see it, it's simple More Air. More chance of water getting in. The Filter may be oiled to disburse water, but if water is continuously on the filter surface (such as driving in rain for a prolonged period), with suction from the engine (And remember that it does suck in air strongly), eventually moisture/water will get through it's just a matter of time. Not enough to cause hydrolock but enough to shorten engine life long term because of things such as moisture polluting the engine oil etc. Like many modifications which alter the original manufacturers design/specifications, you're more likely to run the risk of engine damage. I've hydrolocked a 135 hp 2cyl 940 cc Jetski, trust me you don't want it happening with a 4cyl car engine.

That's Interesting, surprised no-one from here knew about the TRD being an outdated Injen. They're all still over priced for a piece of Aluminium Tube though.

Pulling things from other people's private cars is nasty.

It really depends on your age, driving history etc, so just make a few phone calls, only takes 2 mins for a quote.

Does this only happen when the aircon is on? No, actually never happened to me with aircon on, not really a concern just an occassional anoyance, makes others at the lights sometimes think I'm running radical cam profiles

Eggzackery, trucks actually have bugger all rear/side vision, don't stay beside one and if you can't see their mirrors - They can't see you!

Just do the research, shop around don't buy the first one you see. You can usually find some good 2nd hand bargains (remember it's just a piece of pipe with a filter on the end so even if it's used it can't possibly be broken). Remember you can mix and match different filters if you're not happy with the one that a particular CAI comes with.

Yes that's right, the front sway bar is adequate unless you're looking at doing serious track work. For everyday driving and the occassion track stint the front sway bar is adequate. The Corolla hatch already has a quite rigid rear body structure thanks to those thick c pillars. The rear strut tower bar really isn't needed and will only restrict your boot, so again unless you're building an all out track weapon, it's just not needed and those who've fitted have seen little or no difference. If Budget allows I'd also add dampers/shocks to the list as well as front camber bolts. But save your money and leave the shocks until the standard ones wear out.

I didn't know that