CAP

1 Springs 2 Front Strut Tower Bar 3 Rear Sway Bar 4 Airfilter 5 Exhaust Your not going to get much more power, so I recommend the suspensions mods first, you get much more enjoyment from it.

I've never seen the Sebring up close but in pictures they look just as good if not the same as Remus. The same polished stainless steel look, with black paint on the ends and Crome tips. Provided you buy the one made for the Corolla, it's a bolt off, bolt on job because it should already have all the correct hooks and flange.

Bonnet protector will help with stones hitting the leading edge of your bonnet but you can't do much about them hitting your windscreen. A car bra will work best if you want to protect your bumper and bonnet.

I have a ZZE122R Dad has a 1990 AE92 sedan with only 60,000 km/s on it

That's a good deal, Remus muffler (including pipe and flange) for the Corolla should be no more than $850.00. Sebring being the racing line may be louder than Remus ( Which is throaty but not loud )

Already have - why wait ! :P

Exzakery, Spot on Danz. Car modification isn't cheap, Do things in stages and it's only if you take your time and do real research into things yourself ( Not just what you mate told you ) that you'll: a) Find some bargains; and B) Actually find things that Work and deliver what they promise.

:D Why else would I spend more money on suspension improvements than engine performance ;)

The problem being referred to is idle fluctuating or "hunting" between say 350 and 900 rpm on random occassions with some 1zz's.

Or a few mountain runs :D

I've only covered 25,700 since Feb 2003. My car mostly only gets driven on weekends, otherwise it mostly sits in the garage during the week.

My car's Japan Built I certainly hope this fixes your problem, but I doubt it - why would my car have the problem also? I asked about it again they said in my case it's possibly due to Carbon Build up and the low amout of km's I do. Just needs to be flogged to clean everything out :D

Definetely no rubber bushes where the stabiliser is bolted into the torsion beam, it's metal on metal because the stabiliser is what keeps the torsion beam assembly rigid, if there's movement between the stabiliser and torsion beam it defeats the purpose of having the stabiliser there.

I second this, discs only need machining when warped or when their surface is un-even or damaged as buddha stated. Discs should be machined only when absolutely necessary, as everytime you do it, you're making them thinner, weaker and more prone to warping as a result. In regards to updating Rotors, Cam - I'd start with the fronts only first. In most instances upgrading the fronts alone bring worthwhile improvements to braking. It's a pity that car makers never give brakes the effective ventilation they need, as keeping the rotors cool also brings about improvements such as more resistance to brake fade.

I don't see the point. The whole idea of VVTLi, VTEC bla bla bla is to help the engine continue breathing at HIGH rpm - where normal engines usually start to become breathless and stop making more power because of their specific cam profiles etcetera etcetera. Lowering the engagement point of Lift is only going to be damaging long term - because the engine already breathes well at lower rpm. My Bush Mechanic opinion anyway feel free to correct me. :D

umm yeah it's been for sale for the last year, trying to work towards an M3 wasn't it?

It's needs to be very tight - use leverage, I had the same problem when I had mine installed, we used a pipe for leverage on the wrench and it fixed the problem, came back just a tiny bit a month ago which is a good 9 months after installation ( Oddly only when creeping out of the driveway ). So I simply asked Toyota to tighten the bolts at the last service which they did with no protest. No more noise. That's Melbourne City Toyota by the way. I've heard the torque setting is very high for these two bolts, you will have noticed when the old one was removed the bolts were very very hard to remove.

Hey :) Northy & Silverbullit's comments made it to the article.

that sounds great :) something that takes me 5 minutes to get to instead of an hour to the meeting point ← Being at Safety Beach, you can try the loop for yourself. It's still my favourite drive and best in Winter months as there is absolutely no traffic. Start at Rosebud, drive towards Cape Shank on Boneo Road and follow it past Cape Shank until you get to Mornington-Flinders Road. Turn Left into Mornington-Flinders Road and follow it until it ends. Turn left at the intersection and you're at the top of Arthurs Seat. Be sure to take in all the scenary along the way :D

So how did you do that again ?

I'm on Falken Ziex ZE502 205/45/17. In the wet If I'm not gentle I break traction on take off and throughout 1st and 2nd gear when accelerating. I've also experienced a four wheel drift around a 3rd gear bend.

I left early because after several people saying the police where one corner away people still decided to use the street to do laps, I don't want extra attention from police nor have someone crash into my car when he loses it. Time and Place. With that said, day meets/cruises are better for photo's etc. Last year I organised a meet/cruise to Arthur's Seat and some great driving roads I know in mornington, in the coming months as it gets warmer I'll be organising another.

It's simply characteristic of a FWD when taking off in the wet ( Especially worse when you're taking off up hill ). When you accelerate the weight of the car transfers to the rear, less weight over the front tyres, less traction. Only way to overcome it is that you accelerate more gently in the wet. Better tyres help but simply wont eliminate this.

Quite funny really I'd hate to see what he does to his car

Good to see everyone, Marcus - always good fun to cruise to the meet :). Well I've always said I luv V8's and Omn1potent I want that Ute! :D