CONROD

Our old commie would use engine braking to slow down. Was pretty cool and good for the inner city streets that go and up down. On the Aurion you can't really use CC on normal streets because of the uneven roads, even on some freeways! Not sure why Toyota did it like this. We had a ford which also did not slow down and kept speeding up. Our 2010 ZR6 has no issues with the cruise at all,uphill,downhill,on freeways,back roads etc.I would be bringing it to toyotas attention as you might have a vacuum hose dislodged, but then again it is a (DBW)Drive by Wire setup Maybe the new CC is different? My Aurion just keeps creeping up speed when going downhill until I have to take over to tap the brakes then once we are on even road again I put it back on CC. Hi Unique, mate they could be different its just that the issues Southpac is having its like the cruise control needs an adjustment made to fully shut off the trailing throttle when the car is descending downhill.Admittingly cruise or no cruise a vehicle is going to gain momentum when descending down a steep incline untill you tap the brake to make the auto go back a cog and provide the engine braking in which it is designed to do. Maybe someone else here could shine a light on the subject as I would be interested if there is a common fault RE: the cruise, Cheers Yeah mine does cut throttle. It's not like it just keeps accelerating downhill. It's gravity that takes over and the car goes over speed. Like I said though, our old commie would engine brake to slow down, maybe this is not good for the engine and manufactures decided to no longer do this? This is a good thread: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=24227&st=0&p=353982entry353982 From what you have described I think thats exactly what it is UNIQUE,gravity as I just browsed thru our hand book for the car and the first paragraph relating to the cruise control it states( The cruise control is designed to maintain a set cruising speed,both up and down grades,HOWEVER, changes in vehicle speed may occur on STEEPER grades)so going by that its an integral part of the setup

Our old commie would use engine braking to slow down. Was pretty cool and good for the inner city streets that go and up down. On the Aurion you can't really use CC on normal streets because of the uneven roads, even on some freeways! Not sure why Toyota did it like this. We had a ford which also did not slow down and kept speeding up. Our 2010 ZR6 has no issues with the cruise at all,uphill,downhill,on freeways,back roads etc.I would be bringing it to toyotas attention as you might have a vacuum hose dislodged, but then again it is a (DBW)Drive by Wire setup Maybe the new CC is different? My Aurion just keeps creeping up speed when going downhill until I have to take over to tap the brakes then once we are on even road again I put it back on CC. Hi Unique, mate they could be different its just that the issues Southpac is having its like the cruise control needs an adjustment made to fully shut off the trailing throttle when the car is descending downhill.Admittingly cruise or no cruise a vehicle is going to gain momentum when descending down a steep incline untill you tap the brake to make the auto go back a cog and provide the engine braking in which it is designed to do. Maybe someone else here could shine a light on the subject as I would be interested if there is a common fault RE: the cruise, Cheers

Our old commie would use engine braking to slow down. Was pretty cool and good for the inner city streets that go and up down. On the Aurion you can't really use CC on normal streets because of the uneven roads, even on some freeways! Not sure why Toyota did it like this. We had a ford which also did not slow down and kept speeding up. Our 2010 ZR6 has no issues with the cruise at all,uphill,downhill,on freeways,back roads etc.I would be bringing it to toyotas attention as you might have a vacuum hose dislodged, but then again it is a (DBW)Drive by Wire setup

Well said Steve ,the protection plan offered by the dealership is Over priced and with unresonable conditions. Dont really know how ACCC approves something like that but it is legit . On the subject of "GLITZ" , how much is it priced at ? I love the "new car smell" bit . :) Thats the thing i love about buying cars from the dealership.Get a bit disappointed when the smell fades and the car smells like me . +1 to GLITZ. I love the new car smell! How much and which isle would we find this stuff? From memory its around $10 a tub and its found in aisle with all the cleaning/polishing/preserving products,just ask someone mate and they will direct you to it,-cheers CONROD

Mate we were offered paint/leather protection when we bought our new ZR6,but if you read the fine print re; the warranty for these products if you use any other products for washing the car,cleaning the leather,then you automatically void the warranty offered and I sure as sh*t was not going to pay the rediculous price for a litre of car wash required. As for the leather conditioner we use a product called ( GLITZ )made in USA available at any Bunnings store. It waterproofs,preserves,conditions and it maintains that new car smell. Before you take my word for it, open a tub and see for yourself,rub a small amount on your leather wallet and see for yourself before you buy it.But dont feel bad about not having paint and leather protection done, Hope that helps you out Steve

Oh dear God!!! Firstly, how could you put up with that grin. Secondly, these things are slow as f*** when you drive them after driving a 6 cylinder. Realistically though, no one here is to be the one to tell you if you made the right choice or not. I really depends on what you feel better driving in. How about taking a Lancer for a test drive to see if you can imagine driving it day to day like you would the Aurion. If it feels like it could do he job for you, then scope out the forums to see what others say about it and make some further judgements from there. Well put man. I think I'll keep my Aurion. Don't get me wrong, I love this thing, if I had any doubts I would have not bought an Aurion because I researched for a whole month before getting this car. I went through many many cars and forums and the Aurion just stood out on top each time. But I think the Prodigy look is starting to wear on me a bit. I young guy like me likes the sporty looking cars. I would have opted for the ZR6 but back then the Prodigy was cheaper and still is cheaper then a ZR6 even today. I would have gone the SX6 but I wanted all my creature comforts and the Prodigy WAS the ZR6 but only cosmetic difference and the "sports" suspension. The one I'm looking at is here in Melbourne, only 42K on her and selling for around $25,500. I doubt the dealer would do a straight swap and would want extra $$ on top or either say no because its another Aurion on his hands. Time will tell. Mate;; Keep the Prodigy or if the dealer will do a change over on the ZR6 for a reasonable figure consider it,but just do a solid check to make sure its had its services,at which its only coming up to its 3rd one (45000 kms) not inc the complimentry.Check the hand book to see where it was originally sold from,who owned it,where it spent its first life at(check the address out it might be facing the beach salt spray all day and night),then again it might of been owned by someone who had it garaged all its life and lived away from the salt up in the hills around Belgrave or so. But really mate look and see if the NEW Mitsubishi will hold its value (more so its resale value) down the track for future changeover deals

UPDATE: They have (after four visits), replaced the intermediate shaft and presto - problem gone! Cheers, SkyHigh. :o Hi All, after reading about all these steering issues which seem to be quite common,I started to notice a slight thud noise coming from the LH side whilst going over slight irregularities in our street, so I got the wife to rock the steering wheel back and forth quickly with the engine off and stuff me drunk the LH steering rack end (rod coming out of the convaluted boot) is knocking like a bitch.So I rang the service department this arvo and asked them whats this issue I hear regarding Aurions steering and he replied, Oh you mean the knock involving the intermediate shaft,(so dont let them fool you into believing the problem does not exist)I said well mines got it and when I told him our ZR6 is only 6 mths old and we bought from his dealership he said that it should already have the updated shaft.Anyway he wants to have a listen to it, check to make sure it is it ,order in whats needed. But to be honest to me it only sounds like the steering rack rod wants tightening up or if they are like other rack and pinions a nylon bush replaced at the joint nipped up to the correct torque. Can any one of you who have had this knoking noise help pin point whether it is the intermediate shaft or the rack rod making the noise in our MY10 ZR6.BY the way the cars only got 16000 ks on it never hit a pot hole Read replies 23 & 24 in this thread. Took the car into toyota yesterday and the service manager came out and inspected the knocking in the steering and informed us after checking toyota released bullitins that our car due to its manufacturing date already has the updated shaft in it and he will order in a new rack.I assumed it was only the L.H side knocking but when he got me to turn the wheels all the way to the right and rock the steering wheel back and forth, the knock is worse than the L.H side. AS I stated to him the car tracks beautifull on the road,no pulling left or right, any way I will keep you all informed of the outcome,as it might help some of you out with similar problem Interesting, I think I will try that full lock to the right and wobble steering. Good luck with everything. Hi all,well its been around 3 weeks now and this arvo we finally got the phone call we were waiting on to inform us our steering rack has been deemed as faulty and a new one approved by toyota to be fitted.Cant believe how long it took to get the nod from some Big Wig to release the new steering rack for warrany reasons,now all we need to do is make a booking to have it installed,around 4 hours they reckon, in other words we will be there all day;;;; I will keep you posted of the outcome, Hoo Roo Well the new rack and pinion steering assembly was installed today,and as they said it did take 4 hrs so somehow I dont think I was the first to have it done,nor will I be the last,plus it took 1/2 hr for the wheel alignment to be done(only the toe in-toe out needed doing as per computer printout Not done at Toyota by the way,I drove it just up the road to a steering/suspension specialist.All covered under warranty inc Alignment. All seems good the slight knocking noise when you drove over bumps on the road have all disappeared and the car still tracks straight as a dye. While I was waiting they had a Camry in for the intermediate shaft replacement.Sorry fellas I meant to ask what the new rack was worth

UPDATE: They have (after four visits), replaced the intermediate shaft and presto - problem gone! Cheers, SkyHigh. :o Hi All, after reading about all these steering issues which seem to be quite common,I started to notice a slight thud noise coming from the LH side whilst going over slight irregularities in our street, so I got the wife to rock the steering wheel back and forth quickly with the engine off and stuff me drunk the LH steering rack end (rod coming out of the convaluted boot) is knocking like a bitch.So I rang the service department this arvo and asked them whats this issue I hear regarding Aurions steering and he replied, Oh you mean the knock involving the intermediate shaft,(so dont let them fool you into believing the problem does not exist)I said well mines got it and when I told him our ZR6 is only 6 mths old and we bought from his dealership he said that it should already have the updated shaft.Anyway he wants to have a listen to it, check to make sure it is it ,order in whats needed. But to be honest to me it only sounds like the steering rack rod wants tightening up or if they are like other rack and pinions a nylon bush replaced at the joint nipped up to the correct torque. Can any one of you who have had this knoking noise help pin point whether it is the intermediate shaft or the rack rod making the noise in our MY10 ZR6.BY the way the cars only got 16000 ks on it never hit a pot hole Read replies 23 & 24 in this thread. Took the car into toyota yesterday and the service manager came out and inspected the knocking in the steering and informed us after checking toyota released bullitins that our car due to its manufacturing date already has the updated shaft in it and he will order in a new rack.I assumed it was only the L.H side knocking but when he got me to turn the wheels all the way to the right and rock the steering wheel back and forth, the knock is worse than the L.H side. AS I stated to him the car tracks beautifull on the road,no pulling left or right, any way I will keep you all informed of the outcome,as it might help some of you out with similar problem Interesting, I think I will try that full lock to the right and wobble steering. Good luck with everything. Hi all,well its been around 3 weeks now and this arvo we finally got the phone call we were waiting on to inform us our steering rack has been deemed as faulty and a new one approved by toyota to be fitted.Cant believe how long it took to get the nod from some Big Wig to release the new steering rack for warrany reasons,now all we need to do is make a booking to have it installed,around 4 hours they reckon, in other words we will be there all day;;;; I will keep you posted of the outcome, Hoo Roo

Have you looked at putting a set of wheels off a Ford Territory on it.Exact the same stud pattern 114.3x5 You have a choice of either the original 17" steel wheels or alloy and they are all important LOAD RATED .Do you relise this is going to throw you speedo out to buggery. Other wheels that will fit the 2wd hilux are Rav4,X-trail,Kluger hope that helps you out

ZR6_AurionT hit the nail on the head.Brake fluid can be any colour,ranging from blue thru to yellow almost clear.Being hydroscopic it readily absorbs moisture,thats why master cylinders these days are clear not the old cast ones of days gone by. As yours is dark blue its obviously been changed some where along the line,as the original Toyota is yellow. As for your power steering fluid (ATF ) fluid if its turning pink,its contaminated with moisture(turning a milky red),at work we change all fluids on a regular basis,based on mileage, not time,but some of our semi,s are doing in-excess of 50,000 km per calander month.Mate check with who ever done the last service and ask if they changed your brake fluid and at what kays was it done, cheers

What you will find is that this is common to all vehicles,due to the EAST/WEST layout of the engine in relatiom to the body in other words FWD, it is the engine producing its share of power but more importantly TORQUE and it in turn is pulling the engine forward on its mounts (rotational twist ). Cars with Rear Wheel Drive when they are given a bit of a rev when stationary their engines will pull to the side rather than rock forward or backward due to their drive line being in a longitude configuration. Cars at the drags just watch the blower hanging out of the bonnet that will show just how much they are pulling on the mounts. I just need to ask with the Aurion so quiet and all,what are you gainig by revving the crap out of it at traffic lights whilst it is stationary ?

Peter Garden - Mobile: 0439 877 978 - He's done all mine, my friends and my relatives cars. Any % you want (at your own risk of course). He may be a few dollars more, but you get a top quality job. http://www.realtint.com.au/ Recently got our New ZR6 tinted by tint-a-car in Newcastle.Its our 4th car done by these guys. They normally charge $395 but knocked $100 off for being a repeat customer.They used a metal film on the sides and a carbon based film on the rear,due to the aerial on the rear window as the metal film causes reception drop out apparently especially on the AM band.As for the alarm stickers I insisted that they be left on,due to their high quality the stickers have no detrimental long term effect on the tint what so ever, and the rear window was done in one piece (as it should be ) We didnt have to worry about the high level stop light as it is in the rear wing. Speaking of tint Toyota quoted us $495 and we had to arrange to drop the car off to them and them some bloke would come and take the car (where to they wouldnt say ) tint it and then drop it back to toyota for us to pick it up again,I politly said I DONT THINK SO. Our biggest worry was having some ***** head prising the door trims off,but fair dinkum they were doing a few Aurions and invited us to come in and have a look at their work prior if we wanted too, Top quality work, thumbs up

Thats exactly the way the wife and I park on an incline DJKOR, that way all the weight is not on the Parking-Pawl inside the Automatic transmission.Any car with an automatic transmission will make the noise if it is parked soley using it as a means of holding the vehicle, Good advice mate;;;;; Cheers

UPDATE: They have (after four visits), replaced the intermediate shaft and presto - problem gone! Cheers, SkyHigh. :o Hi All, after reading about all these steering issues which seem to be quite common,I started to notice a slight thud noise coming from the LH side whilst going over slight irregularities in our street, so I got the wife to rock the steering wheel back and forth quickly with the engine off and stuff me drunk the LH steering rack end (rod coming out of the convaluted boot) is knocking like a bitch.So I rang the service department this arvo and asked them whats this issue I hear regarding Aurions steering and he replied, Oh you mean the knock involving the intermediate shaft,(so dont let them fool you into believing the problem does not exist)I said well mines got it and when I told him our ZR6 is only 6 mths old and we bought from his dealership he said that it should already have the updated shaft.Anyway he wants to have a listen to it, check to make sure it is it ,order in whats needed. But to be honest to me it only sounds like the steering rack rod wants tightening up or if they are like other rack and pinions a nylon bush replaced at the joint nipped up to the correct torque. Can any one of you who have had this knoking noise help pin point whether it is the intermediate shaft or the rack rod making the noise in our MY10 ZR6.BY the way the cars only got 16000 ks on it never hit a pot hole Read replies 23 & 24 in this thread. Took the car into toyota yesterday and the service manager came out and inspected the knocking in the steering and informed us after checking toyota released bullitins that our car due to its manufacturing date already has the updated shaft in it and he will order in a new rack.I assumed it was only the L.H side knocking but when he got me to turn the wheels all the way to the right and rock the steering wheel back and forth, the knock is worse than the L.H side. AS I stated to him the car tracks beautifull on the road,no pulling left or right, any way I will keep you all informed of the outcome,as it might help some of you out with similar problem

Hi GSV40R, mate you took the words right out of my mouth, when I first read it ,I thought to myself youve gotta be kidding

UPDATE: They have (after four visits), replaced the intermediate shaft and presto - problem gone! Cheers, SkyHigh. :o Hi All, after reading about all these steering issues which seem to be quite common,I started to notice a slight thud noise coming from the LH side whilst going over slight irregularities in our street, so I got the wife to rock the steering wheel back and forth quickly with the engine off and stuff me drunk the LH steering rack end (rod coming out of the convaluted boot) is knocking like a bitch.So I rang the service department this arvo and asked them whats this issue I hear regarding Aurions steering and he replied, Oh you mean the knock involving the intermediate shaft,(so dont let them fool you into believing the problem does not exist)I said well mines got it and when I told him our ZR6 is only 6 mths old and we bought from his dealership he said that it should already have the updated shaft.Anyway he wants to have a listen to it, check to make sure it is it ,order in whats needed. But to be honest to me it only sounds like the steering rack rod wants tightening up or if they are like other rack and pinions a nylon bush replaced at the joint nipped up to the correct torque. Can any one of you who have had this knoking noise help pin point whether it is the intermediate shaft or the rack rod making the noise in our MY10 ZR6.BY the way the cars only got 16000 ks on it never hit a pot hole

Thats something alot of Aurion owners probably dont think about GSV40R. When you park your beast in the garage overnight,the remote doesnt even need to be in line of site for the car to be started and driven off,as long as it is detected by the cars ECU,it could be on the floor,in the consol,under the seat,either way its ready to start the car

Thats great news mate Just another point you might be interested in regarding the remotes in those which use the ( SMART START SYSTEM ), the remote and the car are always communicating with each other even when it is shut down such as parked in the garage overnight. Thats why we always remove the remote out of the car and keep it inside as believe it or not that would have to use power from within the remote surely, mate i might be wrong, but if they are constantly in touch with each other it has to be getting power from within itself to be able to do that. Speaking of spare remotes the wife took my V6 SR Dual cab to work last week,anyway she used the spare remote which is 18 months old now and it has an unbelievable range so I guess Totota must use a high quality battery in the hilux. Sorry I cant comment on the logivity of the remotes for our ZR6 as she uses one and I use the other so when we open it up the seats and external mirrors reset, .

:Thanks czaja74, so what your saying is the whole plastic frame surrounding the indicator clips off revealing the light assembly which is held in place with a couple of screws, just need to clarify, thanks

Would like to know what procedure to follow if ever I have to replace one of the globes in the mirror. Does the whole light clip out or do I have to remove the mirror to gain access. I looked through all the topics but I couldnt see anything on this subject, thanks

Mate there are quite a few situations which could cause the Smart entry/startsystem remote to operate incorrectly as stated in your hand book such as carrying it in your same pocket with your mobile phone, anything that emits radio waves.egTelevisions,computers,should be a minimum of 1metre away. To eliminate the remote I would simply change the battery using a good quality lithium cell (CR2032). If it fixes the problem at least then you know that it was run down (for the sake of a few dollars) but what ever you do dont throw the remote in anger as its not as simple as just buying another remote and the cost to program it to your cars system would be like purchasing a pallet of new batteries. When you take the back off the remote DO NOT be tempted to run your finger over the electronics inside as STATIC ELECTRICITY will destroy it in a blink same as a computer, hope that helps you out mate To me it just sounds like your battery in the remote needs changing

Not quite sure if it is the same but with our 2010 ZR6 but we have 45 seconds to close the windows as long as the doors remain in a closed position.As soon as we open the door power is cut to all accessories on at that particular time eg; Radio,lights, windows rear sunshade, hope that helps you out kabammi

You will find the glove compartment light will only operate with the parking/headlights turned on,give it a try and let us know how you got on