CONROD

Geez mate,friggin oil filters its hard to get a good after market one,at least one that you can trust.Been hearing abit about dodgy threads,cans leaking,o rings failing etc. aka-Ryco sth Africa/China. The 5L uses a Z9 filter which is a std Falcon filter Stick with genuine (is it worth the $10 ya save ) Mate I,d be inclined to replenish the oil,fit a oil pressure gauge-(capillery type) will do,start the engine up with zero throttle and letting it idle check the cold oil pressure,but more importantly see how long it takes to come up. The knock you are hearing is it much louder than the dreaded diesel knock these engines are known for Being a 5L it has a mechanical rotary injector pump,where as the 5L-E has ECU dependant EFI pump. Oil pressure should be almost instant,use an oil filter that is going to stay full,not drain back Eg; one with an anti drain back valve. One thing the 5L is not immuned to,is long oil change intervals,as they tend to sludge/carbon up and the sludge tends to starve the big ends. If the oil pressure readings indicate erratic pressure I,d be inclined to shout it a new set of mains and big end bearings,simple enough to do whilst in the vehicle if the sump can be removed whilst in place. On the subject of oil pressure warning lights,they normally go out and only come back on again at something like 5lb pressure (sorry for the old school term) if that, Hope its not all that bad for you mate, Cheers Conrod ---Keep us informed of you out come

Hi all, I,m with Miklos73 on the subject of Sheep skin seat covers .As we have full Leather interior in our ZR6 the one thing we wanted was to protect the seats.We have front and rear 100% sheep skin covers not the cheap a*se synthetic sh*t .Our covers are fully lined and we nourish our seats twice a year when we remove the covers and give them all a good airing and clean and we are yet to find any rubbish lodged down the back of the seats,and the leather is like it was when we first bought the car. If you do get them,like everything, you get what you pay for.The ones we got conform perfectly to the sports seats,are airbag compatable,and are cool in summer and warm in winter.

Good to hear Hilux 2004 that you have sorted it all out and everything is all good to go again mate, take care mate, Cheers CONROD

Fair dinkum mate please dont think i am being a wowser but sealed beams went out in the early 80,s .You do realise one stone chip in the lense and you can kiss that light good bye,it will blow the filament quicker than you can blink.Also some of those so called BLUE globes/lights might be bloody bright to look at,but in certain conditions such as low ambient light or misty drizzle you will lucky to see any road in front of you.Just a tip keep your receipt for a refund if you find they dont perform how they should.I personally would of installed a pair of semi sealed beams and the choice of quartz halogen globes are endless. Everyone on their own ,hope they do what you ask of theem, cheers

Yes mate do your normal checks,make sure its got nice clean coolant ,preferably green to prevent the passage ways in the head from corroding away .These engines were also used wordwide in forklifts.Running all day everyday . Have a look and work out what needs replacing such as rocker cover gasket etc. Another cost effective way to get all the gaskets you will need is to get a ( VRS ) KIT Valve Regrind Set , It will contain new Head Gasket,Manifold Gaskets,Valve stem seals,rocker cover gasket,etc,etc,etc

Mate had a hilux with the 2y-1.8lt engine,was also a 4 speed column change.These are what Toyota classed as a GRINNER, dont let the fact that its only a 1.8 lt engine put you off.They have hydraulic lifters/electronic ignition and they run on the smell of an oily rag.Went from Newcastle to Melbourne return,sat on 110-115 kph no probs,also pulled hills with very little effort.You will find due to the gearing that once you are in top gear you will be able to take roundabouts and corners whilst leaving it in top.It will just pull away with no labouring, Just check when you start it up from cold it might rattle lightly from the front until the oil pressure pushes the timing chain tensioner out,then all should be quiet.If it really rattles bad then goes quiet,a new chain will fix that.They are cheep as chips for a quality replacement,and from memory the rocker cover is held on by 3or4 fastners on top of the cover,and the gasket is neophrine once again cheap to replace Cheers Conrod

Mate go to any wreckingyard and pick your self up a pair of Headlights that accept a 55/60 watt Quartz Halogen globe.Any number of cars had them as they fit a multitude of different vehicles.Piece of p*ss to fit.While you are there stock up on spare Q/H globes. Trust me you wont need wattages such as 90/130 watt. Stick with the 55/60watt and you wont go wrong. Depending on where you go they will probably let you have them for $20 each

Hey mate,go and check the wheel nuts on your LH rear wheel and let us know what you find!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sounds like the same fuse for the horns also supplies the power for the radio

Hi 07xcabD4D, The ECU generally has 3 modes; Start,Normal and idle.Start normally pumps in more fuel until the engine has reached the correct temperature,normal injects the diesel in response to signals it recieves from various sensors such as revolution,speed, airflow, temp sensors etc,etc,and idle mode delivers just the required amount to keep it idleing.So what you are experiencing is something the engine needs to do although the noise can be a bit daunting.remember the (CRD) Common Rail Diesel has pump pressure in excess of 20,000 kpa,and unlike diesels of the old school, (CRD) engines are all electronically controlled and minute amount of fuel contaminants can cause a rebuild that would cost a fortune.To put your mind at ease visit a reputable diesel workshop and ask all the questions you need, CHEERS MATE CONROD

Mate this will take you all of 10seconds to remove;; 1-Sit in passenger seat 2-Open glove box 3-Pull bottom section of glove box towards you untill you feel the clips release 4-Whilst holding glove box lid, tilt and remove while clearing the stoppers located on the sides Dont panic you wont snap anything off.BE FIRM but GENTLE NOTE* While you have it removed good chance to remove the pollen filter from behind it and clean/replace the filter element Cheers CONROD

Hi J-Lux,like every thing else these days if you cant see a grease nipple you dont grease it.They fall into the catagory of (sealed for life).If your uni joints have been replaced with aftermarket items they might have a grease nipple.But even wheel bearings are heading that way now,they come as a sealed hub,off with the old & on with the new,no greasing ,no adjustment,splitpins. I guess thats what they class as a throw away society!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hi MydKnight I agree with SATORI893 get a quote to have it plastic welded,they can use the appropriate coloured plastic stick and it would be as per original once they are done.Just look under (plastics repairers) or you might have a bumper bar reconditioners nearby.Probably save yourself $900 on replacing it

Yeh mate I with you on this one Cardiff Toyota would sell their grandmother to make a sale .Although the Manager of Newcastle Toyota now manages Cardiff to try and turn it around,if you know of him you only have to look at what he done with the new Toyota showroom,service dept at Newy,Its a bloody credit to him.After having a bad dealing with Cardiff,(told them to shove their deal up their A*se) .They promised us every thing and when we went to pick the car up 2 days later it was parked out the back with our name scrolled across the windscreen BUT NOT ONE THING on the contract was done to it.The wife was totally devistated so I went off my nut and told them what I thought of their lies and deceipt,mind you in hearing distance of other customers,to whom I appoligised to,but I was so proud I didnt swear once,and a few people approached me afterwards while walking out and they also were there for similar reasons RE; bad dealings and to this day have never gone back to the place.What they dont realise is that the sh*t they dished out that day to us has lost them over $80k with us taking our money to both Newcastle Toyota & Charlie Toyota-(by the way are owned by the same mob) in repeated buisiness. Purchased my Hilux from Charley Toyota and the Wifes Corolla and ZR6 Aurion from Newy Toyota.Both offer TOP service but my choice would be Newcastle any day of the week as Charlestown is starting to slip now service dept is under new management. And TRD-0015 hold your head up proud son you,ve done nothing that any bloke with b*lls would do .You have handed over with you hard earned money and these low lifes have taken you for a fool. And as HIRO stated being a fellow NOVACASTRIAN you have a choice without travelling too far afield. As I work on the Central Coast without mentioning the name those two dealers down that way who are owned by the same person they are also on par with Cardiff anyway thats my two bobs worth on the matter, Cheers CONROD

Have to agree with A BUFF HAMSTER on this one. They look the part but when it comes to practiality the larger slimline version is the go.But I suppose its all about what suits the individual.The tinted look will blend in nice with the colour of your car champ

Hi Phil how are you mate,From what you are describing sounds like your tyres have a bad case Heel and Toe.When you place a flat hand along the surface of the tyre more so on the inside face of the tread face and pull your hand along it do you feel any high and low spots or do you notice the tread has a saw tooth effect,if you do notice any of these swap your rear wheels to the front or better still can you replace the front wheels and tyres with another couple to totally eliminate yours as being the culprits,also try dropping the front tyre pressure down to say 18- 20 lb and go for a drive and see if it changes the noise and also when and if it emits the noise.If it doesnt make it you know its the tyres and not mechanical.(Its a crude method but one that works at pinpointing if its a tyre issue).Be sensible and keep away from high speeds but as you said it can be heard and felt at 50-60kph.DONT FORGET TO INFLATE THEM AGAIN Also have you sussed out the universal joints on the front drive shaft.If you have a diff ratio of around 3.7:1 theres your noise your hearing every 4th revolution of the wheels.But if you have free wheeling hubs you should eliminate it by locking them out,Does it do it when you are in 4H ? Best of luck mate CONROD

I take it you mean (bolt holes) :::: Yes mate stud pattern is the same Take it easy mate

Hi Fellas,Been a while Minimin,9 months mate and you still havent wired those lights up;;;;;; Only joking mate sorry to hear about your operation champ,hope all is going to plan for you now mate. Dont cut your original wires mate as the power they are going to supply the relay with is purely to TRIGGER the relay.The relay is not going to draw any current thru them what so ever to supply the spot lights,that is going to come from your BATTERY to terminal 30 on the relay (that why you dont skimp on the size of the wire) and I used a 30 AMP waterproof inline blade fuse,just in case the relay **** it self or the wire came off and earthed out,at least I knew I had a fuse in there to blow and protect the battery side of things. And Sputnik if you are going to install the switch,you will have to run the supply wire to the switch and back to the relay, as well as supply the switch with a feed to illuminate the symbol ,mate sorry I am going to have to leave it there for now as I have the wife breathing down my neck as we are going to the club for tea, CHEERS FELLAS CONROD

Hi Chris ,how s things mate.I also have a SR Dual Cab mate and about 4 weeks ago I also installed the rear speakers from a SR5 into my rear doors.Asking radio installers such as JBhi-fi was a total waste of time.When I asked them about installing the rear speakers they all said that the wiring was not there,or yes we can remove your head unit and run new wires to each door ,but I told them my unit already has the FADER function ,but Newcastle Pro Sound said no it wont work and that for $200 they will hook it all up and supply me with" wait for it" 250 watt friggin boom box speakers .I took in my audio book for the car and showed them that it was only a 7.5 watt x 4 channel,but no they insisted on trying to flog me some stupid big speakers and he also stated that it would be a 2-3 hour job.So I craefully removed the door trim and there was the speaker wires taped neatly to the face of the door already to plug in and go. Toyota quoted me $235.00 each speaker and $3.00 for each rivet.They are held in with 3 rivets each speaker.I went to the wreckers and bought both speakers out of a Dual Cab SR5 curreent shape plus I got a few clips that hold the door trims on for spares for $110.00.Installation probably took me 1/2 hour each side.That includes trimming the plastic weather seal inside the doors and resealing as per factory (I checked out the sealing on the SR5 at the wreckers),spraying inside the doors with fish oil and riveting the speakers back in using 3/16" aluminium rivets I am fussy as all sh*t.I asked Toyota spares dept and they couldnt even tell me if the wiring loom was in place.And you know what mate they sound great,all the functions work as they should,( Balance,fader) Anyway mate I hope that helps put your mind at ease if I can be of any more assistance just ask, also mate did you remove your head unit lookin for the wires.If you have the speakers already plug one in and adjust your fader to rear Cheers CONROD

Good to hear it was only the fuse mate

Hey PA-MAN,I dont know if I am any help to you but my cousin has a stout,I think his one is around the 1967 vintage.Going by yours you have the big wheel model.Any way his one is far from stock as he has owned the bloody thing for like 30 years or more.He ditched the old 12r motor (I think that was the size ) 4 speed on the tree.Its now running a late model 3Y unleaded on LPG,extractors, 5speed, 14x7 &14x8 12 slotters.He and his wife use it to travell all over the East Coast towing a 16ft pop top.It is so much of an eye opener having this thing come up behind you and overtaking you on an up hill pulling a friggin van .I know in the early days he replaced the diff centre as the original ratio had it screaming its tits off at 80km/h,he found the centre out of a hiace had the correct size side gears to take the original axle spline,sorry I cant be of anymore assistance as thats all I can really remember as they are now living up around Cairns and we dont see all that much of them, Cheers CONROD

Good on ya mate.Great to hear you doing wonders and kickin ar*e at the same time .I also drive a 4.0V6 and you dont really realise just how much get up and go they have untill you call on it .So you are still running the original exhaust manifolds or are they short branch headers.Always interested in articles such as yours, any way mate all the best,take care ;;CONROD

Hey Toyota Pride,things like that sure send a panic thru the old brain hey.Mate did you check all the fuses in the cluster behind the glove box as well as in the engine bay.Try putting your original globe back in if it works try putting the LED back in and if it dont illuminate rotate the LED 180degrees as from memory they are polarity sensitive, hope you sort it out champ; cheers CONROD

Interesting to see what Toyota has to say about SHADOW- and he,s exhaust mod. in regards to any warranty issues.(have you asked them mate if it effects the warranty of the driveline), let us know mate what they had to say, cheers

mmm-sx6 I just noticed today that my letterings "P-R-N-D-S" don't light up like the photo above, could it be that same bulb in replaced in the video is the problem? Same globe that I recently replaced mate. Its a small T5, follow the procedure that DJKOR informed me about. Cant go wrong, CHEERS CONROD