CONROD

Hi all, picked up a beaut little 2001 Hilux Workmate RZN147R, 2 litre 5 speed,its got the RZ1-E injected motor in it. Well the previous owner some how managed to dislodge the 3 wires from the connector which fits into a sensor located on the drivers side inner guard, it has L< and R> stamped on top with a small hole in the middle. ( see accompanied photo) of both the sensor and the 3 wires in question The colour of the wired is as follows-1 is pink, 1 is light green-black trace and the other seems to be a dark green-black trace. The ute has Air Cond if that helps, thought it might have something to do with increasing rpm when A/C is on Hoping some one might have the same and can inform me of their correct position on plug, I have the correct plug, which I will refit, Ive googled but to no avail I checked the wreckers ,all I could find was a Hiace of the same vintage but the wiring colours were different Thanks all Conrod

Probably would at 200 km/h, , but on a serious note I,m running one and at highway speeds if a leaf falls in front, the bonnet protector sends it up and over the windscreen due to the airflow

Yeah same thing happened to us, started freaking out, thinking the worse, then I read on TOC which said pull the radio fuse. 10 mins later all good

:whistling:Things don't go back for nothing

When you do finally get it to start, are your brakes operating normal ? When idling and you apply the brakes does the engine change pace and starts to hunt and miss ? Try this after you have it running, turn the engine off and count how many times you can press the brake pedal until it comes hard and doesn't go down as far. ( nice steady full pumps ) Brake booster could have a hole in the diaphragm or as the fellas above said it is pointing to what sounds as a vacuum leak

Took ours back to Charlestown Toyota mate, 3 replacement racks later, together with a wheel alignment each time and all was good for a couple of weeks, but the noise/knocking slowly comes back, the latest fix was a grease kit, what a bloody slack ***** fix that is, what it involves is nothing more than packing the splines with grease, but honestly Charlie Toyota couldn't do enough for us even though we bought the car from Newcastle Toyota ( Same mob )

My money is on being off a Ford Territory being 17" if it has a 5 x 114.3 PCD. They are obviously Load Rated being 1400kg, Land rover Discovery has a 5x165 stud pattern. As Trent advised the 2wd Hilux is 5x114.3

They are all std size,

Pretty sure the end of the nuts off the alloy wheel are tapered to suit a steel wheel, ( Tapered Shank ) even though their longer they hold the steel wheel on perfectly. You will find its not just a Toyota related matter, its across the board, think for a moment all the vehicles on the road with alloys as standard and have a stupid steel space saver as a spare,

How could the location of that pod filter be classed as a cold air intake, when all its going to be drawing in is hot under bonnet temperature air, I,d say it would actually cost you hp, even though it would sound good when you open her up, but each to their own, have to agree with 1badkiwi and stick with OEM but use a quality filter

I would be trying another dealer mate, as I was able to get a price on our ZRE152 for both front only and whole set. Some on E-Bay from a Toyota dealer

You sure its from the transmission and not power steer fluid,. How can he say it looks like its out of the breather when all the engine bay is covered in the Sh*t.!!!!!!!!!!! Easy check for your self the level of fluid in the power steering reservoir, even start the car and try turning the wheel left to right, just my two bobs worth mate, to try and help ya out, Cheers CONROD

I,m pretty certain the SR has what Toyota calls a ( J Deck ) and the SR5 has a ( A Deck ) J Deck has hooks on side/tailgate and A deck is all smooth.

My cousin got one out of a Hiace van, ( let me see??? around a early to mid 1980 model and it went straight in having the same size (splines) to accept the stouts original thick axles. Been in there now for over 20 years, done a million miles and from memory its about 4.1 ratio, Hope this helps you out.

When you say its not working, what happens when you sit in the car and use the central lock button switch on the door card, do all doors lock and unlock, and also do they all lock/unlock when you insert the key and use it rather than the key fob, as it seems strange that they all went in one hit. Honestly I wouldn't have a clue what they are worth but I would try all other avenues before shelling out a grand and even then there is no guarantee its the problem, use a system of elimination.

You know the first thing they are going to ask is WHY did you disconnect the battery. Have you had a squiz thru the radio book which come in the hand books, other than that mate sorry bud

Without being crude, WHY !!! is anyone going to throw their hard earned money into something thats being going on now for almost 5 years, and probably not going to see the light of day in another 5!!!!! It seems like its never ending,fix one thing and another fails, so on, so on, so on? Fairdinkum mate, should of up unloaded it Long, Long ago. Like I said mate, I,m not being rude but on the other hand you need to know when enough is enough, call it quits and walk away. Best of Luck any way mate

In regards to the back seat base, does the same principle apply to a 2012 Face lift ZRE152r sports, as I got a set to go on also, cheers all

Turn the microphone volume down and all will be good

Sounds like the teeth on the starter are not matching that on the flywheel. When the starter is removed are you able to look in using a torch and have a look for any damaged/ burred teeth on the flywheel

Something has to be major wrong, wether it be electrical, adjustment as I reckon the light output from the projectors would have to be up there with the best of them. Your lenses haven't gone to the pack and need refurbished to make them nice and clear

Yeah seen a few of these. The ones I,ve seen and the one a mate had all had the ecotec series engine To simplify the matter they also ran the 4 speed auto ( avoids all the bullsh*t of getting the clutch hooked up as you have discovered) They all had the grunt, speed of a dog kicked in the nuts, unbelievable power, it was like it was made to fit. Stick with the OEM exhaust manifolds, once again for simplicity

Aftermarket kit?????? Its a 2008 model. Set yourself up in front of a wall, Roller door, a good 5-6mt back, any where its nice and level, switch on low beam, something such as a blanket to throw over the light you are not adjusting ( and it makes it easier to see the light spread of the headlight you are working on and go from there. When you take it out on the road and you feel it needs to come up or down, head back and cover one light ,turn the adjuster a half a turn and you will see the beam follow your movements, then do the same on the other side.

And for the Auto dip on reverse to work, the remote mirror switch has to be on LH or RH to operate the mirror. You can disable it by putting the switch in the middle, so I guess that's more wiring to consider. I feel it all needs to work in conjunction with one another. I think if you go adding switches to operate the features it would look bodgey, be a pain in the ar*e having to remember to flick switches on and off, Cheers just my two bobsworth

The reason why its less with the A/C on is probably due to the fact the cabin is some what pressurised with the fan on. Like trentmeyer23 states its onlyfuel related and all normal. When I start the Hilux up in the garage it stinks like sh*t some time.