CONROD

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GO and GET an independent Brake specialist to take it for a drive and if its as bad as you say it is get them to put it in writing, or if they are feeling generous might even contact the service dept on your behalf and explain their finding. ( Doubt it though ) Seems extremely weird that Toyota don't want anything to do with it , especially if its the selling dealer, Brand New $50,000 plus vehicle, Is there anything else you need to disclose as to the use of the vehicle, before, during, and after the lead up to the brake failure

Hi mate I too was going down the same path to put one in my 2001 Work Mate. The plug for the clock is in place ready to plug in. Seeing how you already have the clock in place,you will see the plug sitting in a clip in slot directly BELOW where the clock will live, Push the tab down on the plug and it will release then simply pop it into the clock,how much did you pay if you don't mind me asking, I was quoted $150 from the wreckers ( if they had one),so I made do with the original one in the radio,

Give this article a read mate, contact them as they might have a distributor down your way, My way of thinking is if you are going to solve an issue do it right once Cheers Conrod

Have you got underneath and checked out the centre bearing in the tail shaft, could be flogged out, You don't really mention if the smell of a slipping clutch is still present, that could of just been a coincidence with the passing truck

Positive earth, if that's how he thinks steer well clear of his advise! They are NEGATIVE EARTH, open the bloody bonnet, look at which terminal earths to the body, then ring him up and tell him he is a Fool. And as for running separate wiring because the OEM wiring is too small your only using it to trigger the bloody relay, then the necessary power will be supplied from the relay to the lights by a decent size wire capable of your requirements

Hi Brickpaver, nice to meet you too mate,I hard wired mine so as soon as I flash or hit high beam they come on.I did it this way as I didnt want to drill holes for a switch and also run additional wires simply to have a switch.I figured the more I keep it original the better.I put an inline 30amp blade fuse(waterproof ) in the power supply wire from the (battery to terminal 30 on the relay )and also a 10 amp inline fuse in the wire from the RED wire on the back of the headlight plug to terminal 86 on the relay.(this wire triggers the relay so if you are running a switch run it from the red wire on the back of the headlight plug to the switch and back to terminal 86 on the relay,and as you can see the relay earths out through RED/Yellow wire on back of headlight plug when lights are on high beam, hope this helps you out mate, cheers CONRO PS Narva make a neat switch with a foglight symbol which illuminates and it fits perfectly into the hilux accessorie blanked off holes- Part#-63027BL,Let us know how you go Edited June 19, 2011 by CONROD

In regards to what????? The DPF but more specific info would greatly gather the replies you are after, Cheers

Have you physically removed them and checked them out, The threads are not smothered in grease ? A hard to remove oxygen sensor may come out easier with rust penetrating oil, WD 40 and the like. Tests show that many penetrants not only loosen oxygen sensors, but also poison them. Oxygen sensors are sensitive to "poisoning" if liquid of any type (that leaves a residue) penetrates the inner platinized surface of the zirconia cell (the heart of the zirconia type assembly).

Unless you are fanging around a track, its not gunna do jack squat, Syndicates is giving you an honest first hand opinion

That's the word I was lookin for, Thanks Champ

Any thing with a 5x 114.3 PCD Ford stud pattern. Falcon, Territory, Nissan X-Trail, I was running rims off a Kluger on mine 16 x 7 and they exceeded the Load rating required, If you do put rims from a Falcon on even though they are the correct stud pattern beware of the larger centre hole on the ford compared to the hilux, you will need eccentric rings ( readily avail ) to take up the difference otherwise all the weight of your ute will be on the studs not on the hub

Mate you do realise these things ONLY run a 3 bearing crank, save the heartache drop a 3y or 4y straight in, they will most likely exceed the final turbo figure of the 12r any way naturally aspirated.

38 psi F & R

From what I understand Hilux Surfs are imports and they are stand alone when it comes to interchanging parts with the 4 runners and other hilux,s of the same vintage, to put your mind at ease best bet is ring Toyota spares dept and ask them

This is what those pipes attach to and feed your brake booster Notice the vanes, they are more than likely only made from fibre,so any sh*t that gets drawn in will score the hell out of them, Only a thought to help you pin point the problem, but if you have checked and you have no vacuum from the lines coming from the pump, it points to it needing a once over, easy enough to pull apart and check the internals,but as trentmeyer stated if you are not 100% what the problem is, its all too easy to spend replacing what don't need replacing

If you are pretty switched on with disassembling and putting back together, Id say the vanes that produce the vacuum are full of sh*t and need cleaning out or replacing

Had the same thing happen to a new commodore we once owned all good signs of a air cond in top working order. Conditions must have been ideal for it to happen, high humidity, moist air. Not a thing to worry about

Bit late, but go to the wreckers and get your self a sealed electronic version ( Need one from a Toyota so it is a Plug and Play ) then get your original one and toss it straight in the bin, Problem Solved

Have a look directly below the water pump, for any tell-tale signs of dried coolant ( Red Pinkish colour dries and stands out ), could be losing it thru the seal in the bottom of water pump. If its leaking internally then its obvious its mixing in with the engine oil so that should be a milky mess, and over full on the dip stick With the radiator cap removed and the thermostat has opened, is there bubbles in the coolant, Cheers Conrod

Yes mate run one for years, just stretches the bunji hooks a bit

Hey champ, I got a 2001 model little tray back work mate and mine too was bloody hard to read, what I did was pull the instrument cluster out, removed the fascia and cleaned it all up with a micro fibre cloth, then armour all it, made it better, all the globes are easy to remove from the rear, you might have a couple of blown ones, as for the tacho feed, sorry mate cant help you there, might be a case of plug and play, cheers Conrod

All fixed, called into a wreckers today and they had the same ute there and I took a snapshot and hooked it all up

Next time you have it flat stick, turn ignition off whilst foot is buried in the carpet still in gear, then turn key back on and be prepared for the biggest back fire as all you are going to achieve is ignition cutout but unburnt fuel will still be drawn in