CONROD

When was the last time you shouted it a new set of plugs ? NGK Spark Plugs LFR6C-11 Whilst changing them out disconnect the battery, letting the ecu to reset, See if it clears the codes afterwards

Done exactly that recently to my little 2001 workmate, picked up the original Bucket seat setup out of an 04 Hilux, drivers and 3/4 passenger seat, out with the old and in with the new, on mine the holes for the new seats are already there just blanked off with bitumen type tape, just a tip, make sure the inner seat belts buckles come with the seats, I got the Lot for $80 from the wreckers, all in bloody good condition just requiring a good clean, which the wife helped do when we got them home prior to installing, that way you can let them dry out in the sun rather than sweating in the ute and I managed to sell the original reupholstered bench seat for $150 no questions asked The difference is bloody amazing to sit in rather than on, and your back will thank you too, If you only want 2 buckets and a consul you will be looking more to a dual cab for what you require Cheers Conrod

Have you climbed underneath and actually looked for broken/ damaged Tie rod ends /Pitman arm

Mate this is from Toyota dealer in Sydney from their e bay site . Take note of the year it fits, so maybe the later year models are different 100% NEW GENUINE TOYOTA ACCESSORY ALLOY TRAY SIDE & TAILGATE KIT SUITS SINGLE CAB CHASSIS HILUX FROM FEB 2005 - SEPT 2011 GENERAL PURPOSE GENUINE ALLOY TRAY LENGTH 2550mm

Might be worth giving a reputable tray mob a buzz eg: Tip Top, Obriens

Clean it up and enjoy it the way it is, unless you have a donor vehicle with everything you need ( and I mean everything ) to do a successful diesel swap it will cost you $$$.

You have an Old School external Regulator and inside that regulator box is points, ( open it and have a sqiz ) They are either burnt, pitted, or in need of a nice clean up using 240 grit or similar emery paper, then adjust the gaps, or go to the wreckers and find a new one, ( off similar year Toyota Corona etc, Just make sure the connecting plug is the same , Many moons ago I replaced one off a similar year with a sealed electronic unit never had any dramas since

Hi Kent, How do you know for certain they are false, When was the timing belt last replaced? because if that lets go Big $$$$$$ 15.5 volts will cook a battery, causing it to boil dry so to speak,, needs to be 14.3 volts to effectively charge. As you stated you go bush ( Cape York ), Why risk being stranded for the sake of a bloody new battery, and at least a reco alternator. As for chinese products , You've had a pretty good run so far stating you picked it up 3 years ago, real good run in fact

360,000km from the original, Look up this site http://www.brettstruck.com.au/c/4534914/1/clutch-kit-for-toyota-hilux-.html

O2 sensors would cause the issues your experiencing

This might be what you want mate https://www.motoquipe.com.au/buy/tradies-canvas-seat-covers-toyota-hilux-single-cab/TRADIES25?gclid=Cj0KCQiA68bhBRCKARIsABYUGicZEyqWlFHfPrYfm4lCMvN2rMBciZeTD2bttDvQU0Xzvt26nJSK808aAg4YEALw_wcB

The best and really ONLY person who can answer all your enquiries is those who performed the upgrade. The vehicle should have a Compliance plate stating the increased GVM upgrade and who installed / signed off on the fitment. Not sure of the load you have onboard in the tray but That shot on the beach shows it sitting bloody nice with next to no drop in the rear

With your headlights on, do they dim excessively when you turn the key to try and start it,indicating a dead short in the starting circuit, a cable hasn't melted some where down underneath somewhere or the smaller wire leading to the starter solenoid has come off/ broken. Climb under and check the inhibitor switch wiring plug for loosness

Have you tried starting it in Neutral. Next step have your hand brake firmly on and whilst holding the key in the start position move the auto selector down through reverse, drive etc and see if it kicks.

Yeah that's all good mate, as you will be using the original in conjunction with a pre filter set up, you will only be removing the INLET Hose off the OEM filter, Hose at the top with Green/ Blue trace marking that then goes to the INLET on the pre filter,( so the fuel goes to pre filter first) then the OUTLET HOSE on the pre filter goes back to the INLET on the OEM.( where you just removed the hose from ) All other hoses stay as is , Cheers mate One tip; Be CLEAN, NEAT and don't take short cuts with sealing matters https://www.westernfilters.net.au/content/pdfs/wf_fuel-manager-separator-kit_fm628dpk_aug2017.pdf

DPFs are the norm now for diesels to meets euro 5 emissions, both light and heavy vehicles, some use DPF, some use Adblue. If you potter around the suburbs all day long, do a lot of short trips with the engine barely getting up to operating temp, expect trouble. They NEED to be able to do a REGEN, BURN OFF, What ever make the vehicle is do your research as to what is required for that particular vehicle to perform the above

That's exactly what I thought , changed many Ford and Holden over the years and never have I dealt with uni,s so tight in the flange, Told him I will remove and separate the two shafts and mark them so they go back together in the same spot, he said no worries but it will be the same price.

Yeah, called into local mechanic this morning $110 p/h to remove & replace $200 Was thinking of applying small amount of heat

Hi all, purchased 3 new Hardie Spicer uni,s ( RUJ 2016 )for my little Hilux workmate 2001 RZN147r , anyway removed the rear tailshaft, removed the circlips on the rear uni and do you think I could get the old uni to budge out of the rear flange, any tips would be much appreciated as I am thinking of taking the shaft and new uni,s to someone with a press to change them out for me. The ones in it now have no grease nipples so I,m thinking maybe they might be the originals. If someone has changed out theirs I"d love to hear how you went about it and if you experienced the same , Cheers CONROD

Pretty sure the wiring is sitting just behind where the rheostat switch fits into the cutout and taped up, what you will find is the brightness is at the upper level if your car does not come equipped with the adjustment switch, the plug will be terminated with a plug and a bridge wire

Yeah mate that bar makes the front end look like a Big wart hanging off then end of your nose, Definitely suited to a 4x4 I put a set of Toyota Kluger 16x7 alloys on my SR Dual Cab with 235x60R 16 (100 Load rating) tyres, only paid $100 ea for the rims brand new ,boxed up with nuts, etc from Toyota spares dept (exceed rear axle Load rating )when I bought the ute brand new. All legal exceeded Load rating requirements, rode well, No hanging out of the guards, and all original Toyota, also brought the speedo back to specs as per GPS

This looks neat on a 2wd, but as others have said you will lose more than you gain by sticking oversize wheels on just to make the bull bar look more in proportion

I would be going to Toyota and show them also mention that a recall was given out to Aurion owners as we had a recall on our 2010 ZR6 to have the gaskets replaced on the tail lights for the exact problem you are experiencing

1-Warm it up so the choke plate is Fully open, physically check its fully open by slight pressure, touch the plate to see if it is, 2-Using screw #2 adjust the idle speed if needed to bring it to specs, then 3=Check the Timing First up, then 4-Using #1 adjust the mixture by winding the screw out a few turns THEN, wind the screw in nice and slow so you can hear the engine change pace, what you are aiming for is to have the engine ticking over at a nice smooth consistent rpm, (don't be alarmed if you think you have the mixture screw almost all the way in ) The moment you feel and hear the idle speed drop off, STOP, winding it in, and back it off a 1/8-1/4 of a turn, 5=Re adjust the idle speed #2 again if its ticking over too fast to bring it back to specs, then adjust mixture again only if needed #3 has to be adjusted with the engine cold as that sets the cold idle speed in conjunction with the choke plate if linkage is worn, binding, freeit up so it moves freely #4 If no A/C leave as is That Green electrical fitting and the one next to it is actually a VSV ( vacuum switching valve ) it operates at a predetermined value to complete a vacuum circuit

Remove the mixture screw and give the orifice and good blow out, sounds like its got sh*t in the float bowl and some of that is blocking the idle jet, If you cant do that remove the mixture screw and start it up, give it a couple of full throttle jabs, be quick, you don't have to rev the ring out of the donk, if there was any rubbish in there it would get drawn through, reinstall mixture screw, Don't screw it all the way in so it bottoms out you will damage the seat,from memory that hose linking the electrical fitting allows the throttle plate to fully close upon shutdown, been years now since I worked on a carby.