CONROD

Hi all, after much deliberating and talking to different people, I managed to talk to someone in the automotive trade who told me they have seen the check valve in the fuel pump play up, causing what I am experiencing. So I give Toyota a buzz where I had it serviced from new, told them its about 12 mths or so out of warranty (3 years ext ) and what could they do me a new pump for. Supply only prices are-wait for it $700 yes $700 friggin dollars just for the fuel pump and $1502 for the complete assy ready to install,and that's supply only So I got some prices -REPCO ---------$274 Super Cheap---$159 managed to get it for $139, they price matched Supercheap and went that little bit further. Its a DENSO pump complete with strainer/filter(identically the same what I removed) . Used the Tacoma OEM online workshop manual for guidance to remove and replace. Hope this helps out someone who might have similar probs. Cant believe how quick the new pump managed to pressurise when it was first turned over.

Thanks for your reply mate, I managed to talk to the service manager where I bought the Hilux from new and he said the same as you in that the fuel pump only pumps (is activated ) when engine is cranking/ running. The ute only has just clicked over 100,000km so I will put another filter on it,as he said the fuel sounds like its draining back to tank when sitting for a period of time. I,II take your advise and go with a Ryco or Genuine unit, much appreciated for your reply

Hey all, I,ve noticed the last couple of days my Hilux (2007 4.0 V6 petrol ) has been cranking over a bit longer than normal when first started in the morning or when it comes time to come home from work in the arvo.I removed the fuel hose off the outlet on the filter in the engine bay on the weekend when it was sitting over night . The fuel filter had fuel in it.I removed the outlet hose and slipped a clear hose on the filter outlet and the other end in a bottle and when I turned the ignition on, no fuel was pumped up through it, but the moment I tried starting the engine fuel began to be pumped through. Its only a new filter been on for around 3000km,I thought it was the culprit, so I removed it and was able to blow through it in both directions, so it was as clean as a whistle ( SAKURA BRAND). Then I got to thinking has the original got a valve to stop the fuel from draining back when stopped for a period of time ? Obviously the fuel pump is getting power when the engine is turning over, but I thought the pump would run for a second or two when the ignition is first turned on to pressurise the system for start-up. The fuse in the fuse box under the bonnet is good. Am I overlooking anything or is there another filter in the tank, or is it the relay stuffed ( I havent got another one to replace it with or can I swap one over from another location to try to eliminate it. I thought if someone had a similar experience they could point me in the right direction. Thanks a million. Prior to this it use to fire almost instantly What I would like to know is; Does fuel only get pumped up whilst the engine is being cranked over or should the pump be activated for a short burst when ignition is first turned on

Hi All, I,m after a LH OUTER clear tail light for the wifes 2010 zr6 Aurion. Some wally cracked it.Only need the outer, cheers

May be all the **** that's jammed the thermostat open has also blocked the hell out of the radiator !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A radiator needs to be pressurised to raise the boiling point of the coolant. As trentmeyer23 pointed out terminal damage is inevitable if you continue as is

Quote;[ I wont trust a mechanic who wont tell me what oil he uses] Sludge is a wonderfull thing.It usually results from leaving the oil in the engine well past its use by date ( To save paying for a service) Not what oil is used If you know you are not going to pay to have it serviced at least go and buy 6lts of oil,a new oil filter and do it your self.Dont wait until it starts to die and then suddenly panic and think (all will be o.k once I have the service done ) too late damage has long been done!!! This is a picture of a VE engine oil filter due to trying to save a few dollars on a service.

The only thing that Is different is the tray(well back) themselves. One is called an ( A DECK ) and the other is a ( J DECK ) signified by the tie hooks on the outside. Go to Toyota and they will confirm and show you the difference

That is correct power from the battery has to come directly from the battery NOT be via ignition for reasons relating to if for some reason the fuse blows etc the trailer/van will not have any braking due to the controller not having any power. And it has to have a THERMAL CIRCUIT BREAKER NOT a FUSE. Roughasguts has had it carried out correctly

Being a 2010 year model, it should be still under new car warranty.Take it to Toyota,let them sort it out or at least document it,in case you have hassells down the track

Make sure the wire from the negative side of the coil is not grounding anywhere,also check to make sure the points are not pitted/burnt or if they are actually opening.

YES you are correct 107 is Dual Cab & 106 Single, with my series GGN15R donates 2wd & GGN25R donates 4wd, cheers mate hope this BELOW helps ya! Modifications produced from 1994 (august) Choose modification: Spec. # Modification Body type Drive Trans Fuel Displacement, cc Engine model Frame Price 1. Double cab SSR-X (wide body) EGR equipped car Pickup 4WD MT Diesel 2779 3L KB-LN109-PRMQS(N) $18300 2. Double cab SSR-X (wide body) Pickup 4WD MT Diesel 2779 3L KB-LN109-PRMQS $17900 3. Double cab SSR-X EGRequipped car Pickup 4WD MT Diesel 2779 3L KB-LN107-PRMGS(E) $17300 4. Double cab SSR-X Pickup 4WD MT Diesel 2779 3L KB-LN107-PRMGS(X) $17000 5. Double cab SSR EGR equipped car Pickup 4WD MT Diesel 2779 3L KB-LN107-PRMGS(N) $16100 6. Double cab SSR-X Pickup 4WD MT Gasoline 1998 3YY-E GA- YN107-PRMGE(X) $15800 7. Double cab SSR Pickup 4WD MT Diesel 2779 3L KB-LN107-PRMGS $15800 8. Double cab SR EGR equipped car Pickup 4WD MT Diesel 2779 3L KB-LN107-PRMSS(N) $15400 9. Double cab SR Pickup 4WD MT Diesel 2779 3L KB-LN107-PRMSS $15000 10. Double cab SSR Pickup 4WD MT Gasoline 1998 3YY-E GA- YN107-PRMGE $14600 11. Single cab SR EGR equipped car Pickup 4WD MT Diesel 2779 3L KB-LN106-TRMSS(N) $13800 12. Single cab SR Pickup 4WD MT Diesel 2779 3L KB-LN106-TRMSS $13500 13. Single cab DLX EGR equipped car Pickup 4WD MT Diesel 2779 3L KB-LN106-TRMDS(N) $13100 14. Single cab DLX Pickup 4WD MT Diesel 2779 3L KB-LN106-TRMDS $12800

Get use to it mate, the (5VZFE) 3.4 litre V6 was never a power house 124kW of power at 4600rpm and 291Nm of torque at 3600rpm,but in its day it was o.k. As its e10 compatible I,d be inclined to run something like United 95 in it ,forget about using premium 98 that,ll only lighten your wallet for next to no gains. What will find is it will be bullet proof,probably out live you,drive it for what it is and find a happy medium where its happy to cruise along all day and in return give you good economy,say 95-100kp/h instead of forcing it along to maintain 110-115kp/h (I,m not saying this is the case ),but given time you will sort that out. A neighbour had one with a 2.8 TD in it,and it looked absolutely smick with just a set of sunraysia,a on it

There is nothing wrong with it!!!! Be patient untill it warms up. Its also there to prevent the COLD engine from pulling a too higher gear whilst cold. Toyota is not the only ones to do this.By playing around with it and by-passing/altering certain features you will create more problems than its worth,especially having a COLD transmission in overdrive and trying to get it to pull,let it do what it is designed to do.

Best thing in terms of reliability,performance ,is leave it the way it is.

You havent by any chance put rediculously ultra low profile tyres on it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! To check out what rpm it is actually doing, suss one out at a car yard and take it for a spin and note exactly what its doing in each gear at a given speed

Hi mate,from memory once I had the light in position with the bottom bolt in but only finger tight I held the light in firm against the back of the hole and then used the 1/8"-3mm drill bit in my fingers and working from inside where the light mounts against the top of bar I twisted the drill bit so it left a good impression in the plastic bar,removed the light and continued to make the hole for the rivet as the hole needs to be exactly straight up and down (verticle to the top bracket hole )otherwise if its on an angle once you pop the rivet so to speak the light will not be against the hole and it will be loose and look sh*t. Take your time once you start the drill bit will go through easy,its a bit of a pain,your fingers will cramp up,if you had like a little dremel easier still.Here is a couple of snaps hope it helps mate,cheers I tried getting a shot of the top edge of the foggy from inside the cavity but camera was too big to go right up

Easy as mate,put the front up on stands,To cut the blank out of the bar use a new blade in a stanley knife and remove it then using the same new blade very CAREFULLY trim it /clean the opening taking care not to go outside the opening,Then position the light in place and you will see where you have to drill a 1/8"-3mm hole on the TOP to rivet the light bracket on,MEASURE-CHECK TWICE & DRILL ONCE and the bottom uses a 10mm small bolt.I got mine from my neigbours front bar after he replaced it with a bull bar

Autobarn ryco $22 bought 3 of them pays to phone around

If its a SR5 it should already have one

Hi mate my SR has the load rail on the tub.It has what is known or referred to by Toyota as the " J " Deck,signified by the two (2) latches holding the tailgate closed and the SR5 has what Toyota refers to as the " A" Deck,signified by a single central tailgate handle,and no load rail (barrier on the back window ) and smooth sides with no external tie down hooks,hope that helps you out mate

Unless you want to void your insurance DO NOT put spacers on !!!!!!!!!!!! I,m running 16 x 7 load rated Kluger rims on my GGN15r,had them on from day dot and have heaps fo clearance.The only way you are going to see if the ones you are thinking of buying is to actually fit one up, cheers mate

Put a set of CSA alloys on the wifes new corolla,rang up CSA, wella, 4 rings no charge

Take the top off the carby pull the idle jet out,blow it out * DO NOT CLEAN IT OUT WITH A PIECE OF WIRE* any money it,ll run better than ever ,all for the sake of a couple of gaskets,while your at it put a carby kit thru it,or do like my cousin did and put a 2bbl weber off a 2 litre cortina (only problem with that nowa days you never see them in wrecking yards no more) NOTE* Some of these carbys had a very fine gauze mesh filter in the inlet on the carby where the fuel hose attaches too and they block up as the little gauze filter is that fine all the sh*t just builds up

Sorry mate I too thought you were referring to the engine cover,my apollogies and I do agree they would give it that clean uncluttered look as long as they dont tend to act as a heat soak,once again sorry champ

Hi Allen,dont feel you are obligated to take the Corolla back to where you purchased it from,find a dealer who has the TIME and PR skills towards you and not treat you like you owe them something. Only time you will have to go back to the dealer you purchased off is when Harrier extended warranty kicks in (if you have one )