CONROD

Hi Coopersmummy06,Thanks for not taking what I wrote personally as there was no mallis intended.In one way its a blessing that he said Quote;He thinks valve stem seals if the smoke doesn't go away. Which he thinks it won't. At least he is more or less eliminateing the rest of the engine What I would be inclined to do is change the OIL AND FILTER using a 10w40 or 15w40 something slightly heavier than the 10w30 ,but I wouldnt go too heavy and use the run of the mill 20w50 although in the hand book toyota approves its use,as you need to maintain good oil flow to prevent big end starvation, untill such time as all that thick sludge sh*t has gone,and all the oil passages/galleries feeding the valve gear etc are free and clean and are able to do what they are suppose to do.You might have to run a chemical sludge remover/oil cleaner through the system, like they do to clean diesel engines,to remove sludge/soot and free up the rings,(might pay to ask,but get their reassurance that it wont further complicate the matter. Make sure that the oil filter is changed at every oil change, as all that sludge has to end up somewhere.They would have to be the easiest filter to change and being an element if you study the bottom of the housing upon removal it tells you of any metal present in the oil,any way COOPERSMUMMY06 if it is valve stem seals its not something that has to be done ASAP,all it will mean is you will burn a little bit more oil than you should,mainly at Idle and going down hill with a trailing throttle as the engine produces high vacuum and sucks oil past the stem seals and guides, best of luck, take care, CONROD

If your engine is not missing when idleing and there are no air bubbles being pumped into your coolant expansion overflow bottle you can forget about having a blown headgasket,unless of course you have had a coolant leak and totally ignored it the same way you have with your oil,( if you were to remove a rocker cover,dont be surprised if all the cam gear was covered in nothing but hard black caked on sludge) as it sounds like your car only ever gets driven a short distance every day with a lot of stop/start and the engine never really attains operating temperature to burn off all the impurities and get rid of all that moisture in the exhaust system which bye the way going by your discription is purely water vapour due to cold morning/cold engine /warm exhaust gases.Please dont think I am being a cruel bas*ard but to own a vehicle and say you have missed a couple of services,so that relates to no fresh oil for the past 20-30,000 km,depending on what service intervals you run at, anyway thats my 2 bobs worth,hope all is not what it seems for you and best of luck with the outcome, cheers

Thanks for your reply A Buff Hamster,I just needed to hear from someone who has them fitted to actually know wether or not they made an improvement for the money outlaid. As one bloke said to me as its only turning over around 2000rpm at 110kph and with the original exhaust manifold in place you only have 3 ports exiting out through that manifold and as such being a relative slow revving motor at any given speed you just dont have the high volume of air exiting out through that manifold to warrant the use of an extractor. Any more feed back would be more than welcome,anyway thanks again A Buff Hamster

Just interested to know if any one has put a set of extracters on their current model Hilux /Prado (4.0 litre V6 petrol), and if they have,is there much of a power/torque increase or is it really too much money for the small gain.Interested in all responses both good and bad,as I tow a caravan I want to know if it is a worthwhile mod, Cheers

Mate if you feel the need to do a coolant change,well do it. To satisfy your curiosity as to the state of your coolant in your vehicle at present go and have a test done on it using a hydrometer and see what the specific weight is, if its below what it ought to be change it, if its all honky dory leave it.Hopefully someone who works at a dealership will reply as to how effective/longevity the original Toyota Long Life coolant is. As in my 4.0V6 Hilux ,the little sticker says its good for 160,000km before a change.I take it that it is the same coolant that is in the wifes ZR6.On the subject of coolants I was advised that the RED coolant is specifically for vehicles with an alloy radiator (is this true ) Where are you ADAMSY;;;;;;;;;

Mate I think this is what you are referring too. Hopefully someone like ADAMSY would be a grateful and fully inform you on the matter as he would know first hand if it has or hasn,t got a clutch in the drive pulley cheers CONROD A serpentine belt drive system for an automotive vehicle in which the sequence of driven assemblies includes an alternator assembly comprising a housing and an armature assembly mounted in the housing for rotation about an armature axis. A hub structure is carried by the armature assembly outwardly of the housing for rotation therewith about the armature axis. A coil spring and one-way clutch mechanism is disposed in operative relation between the alternator pulley and the hub structure for (1) transmitting the driven rotational movements of the alternator pulley by the serpentine belt to the hub structure such that the armature assembly is rotated in the same direction as the alternator pulley while being capable of instantaneous relative resilient rotational movements in opposite directions with respect to the alternator pulley during the driven rotational movement thereof and (2) allowing the hub structure and hence the armature assembly to rotate at a speed in excess of the rotational speed of said alternator pulley when the speed of the engine output shaft is decelerated to an extent sufficient to establish the torque between said alternator pulley and said hub structure at a predetermined negative level.

Good afternoon John.Pop on this web site mate as there is quite a bit of information on your particular problem www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?...Timing-chain...22R cheers,,, CONROD On one of the posts apparently there are 2 different length chains used There were 2 versions of the 22R - the early tall deck and the later short deck. The short deck has a slightly lower block than the tall deck. The short deck uses a 2 less links in the timing chain.

Hi John,right now we have established you have a 22r in your ute.I understand now when you say you checked the valve clearance.When you have the rocker cover off can you shine a torch down beside the top cog on the camshaft and visually sight the chain guides.The method of winding a new timing chain on is fine as it is a simple fool proof way of replacing it,by the way if it is the original timing chain you will be able to see it clearly as a replacement chain has a joining link in it (similar to a push bike chain ) if it is a single row chain.If it has got a joining link just join the new chain to it and wind it through the way in which the engine turns over, pull the old chain out as you go (keeping weight on it) so as the hydraulic chain tensioner does not come out and drop into the sump. Keep us informed;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

Yes I know what you mean John. The old Ford and Holdens with plugs and points, you used to be able to fix them with a bit of fence wire. Mention points to alot of folk these days and they would think you were swearing at them. Well mate i am sorry I havent been much help to you all the best and I hope you sort it out soon, Hoo Roo CONROD

Our consumption is almost dead inline with you (toyota pride). Just recently took a run from Newcastle to Melbourne. Filled up on the outskirts of Sydney and made it all the way to Laverton VIC (western ring road) on one tank before the fuel light came on and that was sitting on 110-115kph cruise control all the way,using 95 octane. Trip computer was saying 7.1 L/100 at one stage out around Gundagai,ended up 7.3 L/100 on the Western ring road prior to stopping for fuel. Just thought I would add my 2 cents worth, take care;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

That rattle you are having on start up,are you sure that its not the timing chain?I had a 87 model hilux with a (Y) series petrol motor in it and the timing chain would rattle on start up both hot and cold UNTILL the oil pressure built up and pushed the chain tensioner out to take up the slack,anyway I got a new timing chain kit and put it in one saturday morning and the result was a beautiful smooth and extremly quiet engine.From memory the Y series motor has hydraulic lifters as its OHV not OHC so the valves run no clearance/valve lash.Next time you start your car,start it without using any throttle and listen at the front of the motor and if it is the timing chain you will be able to hear straight away if it is,as there will be a noticable/distinct change as the oil pressure moves the tensioner out against the chain. PS; By the way a new timing chain for one of the engines are cheap as sh*t and thats for a good reputable brand (keep away from chinese/tiawanese rubbish as they have no regards for quality tolerance issues. Hope that helps, cheers CONROD

Good to hear all is o.k. Give this mob a ring and see how you go.I think they are located in Cardiff(Newcastle) ALL WHEEL REPAIR Full Machine Shop PROMAC 4956 8466 Hope that helps you out, CONROD

From memory one side advances the timing and the otherside retards the timing.Make sure the vaccum hoses are on the correct side. The retard feature comes into play such as backing off going down a hill or anywhere where a closed throttle is utilised. It retards the ignition to minimise backfire and quite a few other burning processes.To check if your vacuum advance is working remove the hose from the vacuum advance unit,relace with a similar size hose,start the engine and physically suck on the hose and your motor should gain rpm.Go and photo copy the diagram for the correct fitment of the hoses at a library, hope that helps mate

Geez mate that seems abit steep,but then again the premium brake package on a XR series Ford is similar in price.Seems hard to justify;;;;; ADAMSY is a good bloke to shine the light on prices,durability,life span and so on.He is not only a person of knowledge but what he says comes from hands on experience.He might even be able to get a purchase order and you pick them up from a Toyota dealer in W.A

Mate our 2010 ZR6 has also done the same thing once or twice. It freaked me out when it first done it.It sounded like it was searching for a disc.From what I can gather is, it done it after the car was turned off and restarted the following day and on each occasion we had been listening to a CD and we ejected it prior to shutting the car down,so maybe the stereo was still in CD player mode from the day before,anyway as soon as we selected radio it ceased to make the shuffle noise, cheers CONROD

Hi Larso I also have a Hilux.A 2007Dual Cab 4.0 V6 Auto.We have a Coromal Twin Axle poptop 16ft with an ATM of 1550kg.You state the Jayco has an ATM of 2200kg,just be carefull as the hilux Towbar has a maximum tow weight of 2250kg and just as important a TOWBALL weight of 225kg max.Our van comes in at 140kg towball weight. I supplemented the original trans cooler in the radiator with an additional large Haynes alloy unit.It fit beautifully behind the grill and all up with everything I needed it cost me a little over a third of the price I was quoted to have it done.I made the mounting brackets out of 6mm alloy flat bar,and at the end of the day looking at it you would swear it was a factory install.I purchased everything off the same reputable transmission workshop including the FULLY SYNTHETIC transmission OIL (which is totally compatible with the Toyota Oil. BE WARNED DO NOT USE normal DEXRON in the Toyota. Hope that helps you out Larso, cheers CONROD.what state you in if you dont mind me asking

Try this have your car with the wheels in the straight ahead position,key on accessories so your steering is unlocked and rock your steering wheel back and forth in a QUICK,SMOOTH,rocking manner.Its no use having the engine running whilst doing the above as the power steering pump will pressurise the rack and you wont feel anything.If you do hear or feel the knocking get someone to climb under and grab the steering rack arms and either pull down or push up on them,chances are when they do that the knocking will cease,pointing to worn inner tie rod joints or rack-end bush.Ive had two new steering racks replaced due to the rack being faulty (manufacturing and tolerances issues apparently)

You do realise that 60 weight oil is for high mileage,smoking,worn out rings,old clapped out vehicles that had machining tolerances measured in millimetres. Mate your hilux hasnt even been around the block (so to speak )do it a favour and stick with what it needs and that is a free flowing light weight oil,not something that is as thick as diff oil.I own a 4.0 V6 hilux and the heaviest that gets put in it is 15w/40.Afterall its a quad cam 24 valve variable timing and anything heavier is just too heavy. I sure as sh*t wouldnt be mentioning it to your dealer about using such a heavy oil, if you make a claim in regards to the motor they would put it straight back on you for using the incorrect oil.Prime movers hauling a B-Double only use 15w-40 and they are lugging 90 tonne;;;;;;;;;;;;;; But at the end of the day HK1837 its entirely up to you champ

Hi METAL 13,in regards to your switch you are chasing have a look at the NARVA range.Just google NARVA and then click on what ever type of switch suits your fancy wether its a toggle,rocker,push-pull switch.They have a beaut range,top OEM quality,looks factory,they state the measurements in relation to the switch.Doubt very much if you will get one from the likes of Supercheap Autos,try a reputable mob such as Bursons or even Auto Electricians as they tend to use products that wont come back and bite them on the ar*e,you wont be disappointed.Look on the net and you be the final judge,Cheers hope I was of some help,CONROD

Hi CLIFFSTAR,I got 4 original 15" wheels complete with hubcaps taken off the wifes 2006 corolla Seca when it was new (replaced with alloys)going cheap if you are interested.I am up on the Central Coast

Mate I have got 4 original 15" as new wheels complete with original hubcaps taken off my wifes new 2006 Corolla Ascent.They have been stored in the shed for the last 4 years.They have got rubber on them as the new tyres were transfered on to the alloy wheels we put on it. Anyone Interested going cheap;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

Hi Kermit extractors are a good start,and as for your vibration if it is felt through the seats it is a drive line issue.If the vibration is not there when you travel at 90km/h unladen,try just hooking up the boat and try that with no load in the tray,if the vibration is gone,well it points towards the angle of your tailshaft changing once you load the tray up.(could be worn uni joints or if you have a two piece tail shaft the centre bearing,all easily and cheap to replace.(what ever you do dont take the easy & cheap way out and buy cheap rubbish made in CHINA.Ionce had a HQ Holden with a manual gearbox and it had a distinct vibration at exactly 80km/h and it turnt out to be the clutch plate(centre spline )had worn and was allowing the plate to be off centre only by a fanny hair to speak,but it gave a vibration identical to the one you are experiencing, hope I was able to help, Cheers Conrod

Yeah at last I got one auto electrician that will try to bypass the immobilizer ! but he will charged me $230...zzzzzzz. But the work is not guaranteed.... hope he can do it... feel so hopeless now while waiting for him to come over..... I will post the update to u guys if it is not too hard to bypass.. incase any of you facing the same problem with me.... *sigh I read some post that easy to reset the immobilizer for some older car.. but dunno with aurion.... Mate before you even think of talking about bypassing your immobilizer and having shonky alterations done to the electrics on your car,trace back your own work( look where youve provided power for your amp) as something must be off. Is it properly and adequitely insulated ?Does this also feed other ancillaries? either that or youve blown one of the fusible links. First up check fuse #5,6,12,13,In the fuse block located BEHIND your glove box,best of luck Dude, take care;;

Thanks Adamsy for going into detail re; the issue with the LEDs.Yes mate we have a 2010 facelift model. In the letter it states they need the vehicle for an hour or so possibly longer. Once the gaskets are replaced in your opinion the possability of the same problem down the track will be no longer be there.By the way mate I enjoy reading your feed back and solutions as they are free of bullsh*t and you have the knowledge and experience to support you ;;;good work mate keep it up

Hi everyone; its been a while. We recieved a letter from Toyota today stating a specific range of Camry/ Aurion vehicles that use (LED) rear combination lamps are being recalled as the durability of the LED,s may not meet Toyotas standards,and as such Toyota will rectify the problem.So I hope this helps all you out if Toyota fail to contact you in regards to the above,take care,,, CONROD