CONROD

Valve clearance been checked and double checked, Exhaust valve not burnt?

give this mob a buzz, they'll sort the mess out, there's a video somewhere actually showing how much sludge comes out the sump drain after using it Engine Sludge...Act quickly, or it'll kill your engine. - Cost Effective Maintenance

Low rpm, low speed, say 30-40kph, 3rd gear. Then wide-open throttle, do this half a dozen times, it forces the Top Ring out, to bed in, but don't rev the sh+t out of it, slow down and repeat process, but to have Nil compression on one cyl points to something not right, and having associated miss Head tightening procedure and torque specs: Step 1: 78 Nm; 8.0 kg·m; 58 ft·lb Step 2: Turn all bolts 90° Step 3: Turn all bolts 90° Camshaft bearing cap 25 Nm; 2.5 kg·m; 18 ft·l Cylinder block Cylinder block alloy Cast iron Compression ratio: 22.2:1 Cylinder bore: 96.0 mm (3.78 in) Piston stroke: 96.0 mm (3.78 in) Number of piston rings (compression / oil): 2 / 1 Number of main bearings: 5 Cylinder bore inner diameter: 96.000-96.010 mm (3.7795-3.7799 in) Piston skirt diameter 95.940-95.950 mm (3.7772-3.7776 in) Piston ring groove clearance: First 0.028-0.077 mm (0.0011-0.0030 in) Second 0.060-0.105 mm (0.0024-0.0041 in) Oil 0.030-0.070 mm (0.0012-0.0028 in) Piston ring end gap: First 0.350-0.470 mm (0.0138-0.0185 in) Second 0.400-0.500 mm (0.0157-0.0197 in) Oil 0.200-0.500 mm (0.0079-0.0197 in) Piston pin outer diameter 29.000-29.012 mm (1.1417-1.1422 in) Connecting rod small end diameter (standard) 29.008-29.020 mm (1.142-1.1425 in) Crankshaft main journal diameter: 61.985-62.000 mm (2.4403-2.4409 in) Crankpin diameter: 52.988-53.000 mm (2.0861-2.0866 in)

Reso Mat 👍 TRU-FIT resomat: Product test (whichcar.com.au)

I just have the handle section on, left the spring and latch off, Lid acts like it should just doesn't lock, which suits my needs

Pretty sure a place like Jaycar has what you need

Good to hear mate that it all went well, I was in the same boat, Last clutch was over 20years ago, thoughts kept running through my mind and I informed the wife, can't believe I use to be able to scamper underneath and actually pull, wiggle and lower these bloody gearboxes down on my own, ahh memories

Speaking of Catalytic Converters; Catalytic converter thefts on the rise in Australia as rare metal values climb - ABC News

Keep it! You've had it since new, STAY AWAY From bloody dealers, find a reputable exhaust shop (specialist), someone who has good reviews, or an Independent Mechanic, that you can trust, go there and explain what Toyota has diagnosed. Could only be a buggered O2 sensor, but keep the SX6, they dont make them anymore and they go like a scolded cat with the same 3.5 lt V6 as in the Aurion. Have you got a family member, eg; son, nephew? even a Neighbour? who you trust to accompany you , so the buggers dont try and rip you off. Just out of interest what are the 3 illuminated lights you keep cancelling, as they could be an indication of where the fault lies

Be more persistent. https://9now.nine.com.au/a-current-affair/toyota-peeling-paint-angry-motorists-call-out-major-car-manufacturer/4fa9f07d-d37f-4cbd-818c-5bf1e7904c16

Check for a blown Fuse, as its losing power when you turn ignition off,

Just check the specs on the back of the bottle and compare that to whats in your hand book, should say something like SAE 5w-30, API CF-4, CF or ACEA B1, B3, B4, B5, if it does all good, I've used Castrol MAGNATEC Diesel DX Engine Oil - 5W-40, in the past in a CRD with DPF and alls been good

Take it up with the Dealer Principle whom you purchased it from, before you say anything, check out other vehicles on the lot first and take photographic evidence to substantiate your claim, obvious Rodent problem. Cant blame them for taking measures to protect their stock

Sealed joint, lube wont make any difference

Honestly mate, it looks more daunting than it actually is. I put a new clutch kit in my 2001 RZN147r, Got a Clutch Industries Aust Heavy Duty kit. The trans will slide back up over the rear x-member, just remove rear trans mount, I actually had the wife operating the trolley jack while I manouvered it out of the splines on the clutch plate and lowered it down

Just make sure its LOW SAPS suitable for DPF, otherwise you will kill it when it does a burn off

When you say its heating up it might not necessarily be overheating. If the temperature sender wire earths out it will head straight to the "H" on the gauge, Have you got another senser to put in, that will eliminate that. Just another thought, the Bottom radiator hose isn't sucking in & collapsing. Remove the thermostat altogether and see how it behaves, I,m not being a smart ***** , but it is in the right direction, Hope you sort it out bud , keep us informed of the outcome

Try RARE Spares

Tell pedders to rip someone else off, Look here Genuine, beware of cheap so called performance ebay crap, unless its from a REPUTABLE SELLER,scroll through link and you'll find the RH strut also Genuine TOYOTA AURION 3.5 TRD (GSV40) 2006-2011 Left Hand Front Strut - Part no. TO485208Y003_128234 - Phil Gilbert Toyota

The third rack must have had tighter tolerances as it was way better and they said if it knocked again a hot fix issued by Toyota was to pull the rack apart and apply grease to the offending area of where the bush carries the inner rack on the passenger side

We had a 2010 ZR6 Aurion and from memory experienced the dreaded Steering Rack Knock, Toyota installed 3 new racks in a quest to eliminate it, New rack followed by a 4 wheel alignment by a reputable front end workshop, 3 times over a period of 18 months Apparently its got something to do with the bush in the passenger side of the rack. What I did was have the wife rock the steering wheel back and forth sharply while I reached up under the passenger side and pulled down on the inner tie rod coming out of the steering rack and guess what, noise gone, so I knew it was only the bush not a nice tight snug fit on the inner tie rod ( rack ), got techo from Toyota to do as I did to feel the knock and how putting weight on it stops the noise , but they insisted a new rack was needed Gave up chasing it through Toyota as all would do was throw another steering rack in it, must of cost them a fortune, especially genuine

Give these blokes a buzz Buy ARP Connecting Rod Bolt suit For Toyota 2.0L 3SGTE & 2.4L 22R 203-6002 Online | Rolan Australia👍

How long is a bit of string, worth more than you think, especially if its in the condition you say it is, Cheers

Liners are standard fitment, Before you do anything take the block to a REPUTABLE engine rebuilder and get them to check the bore. It might only need a new set of rings if the bore shows no signs of excessive wear, taper. Easy as, Buy a VRS kit, has all the gaskets, seals, shout it a new set of Mains and Big end bearings, valve stem seals and it will see another 500,000km.👍 To remove the liners requires a puller or press, you will need to weigh up the odds

You don't specify if it's running the standard size bore or is it oversize ? 40mm exhaust is heaps big enough for a standard 22r 84kw engine. When you say exhaust burble, do you mean backfiring. AFR is always going to lean off on a closed throttle, because you have come off the main jet and back onto the idle jet, with the new carby you bought did the guarantee you it had the correct size jets in it, also does it idle nice and smooth, might need the mixture adjusted, just my two bobs worth mate, Cheers This might interest you Correct Air Fuel Ratio For 22r? (marlincrawler.com)