Hiro

Just buy one, tight wad. It'll be the best $50 or so you can spend on your car. Was just about the first thing I did for imine. Failing that, I've got the EWDs on my photobucket, anything else you need to know just ask but there will come a time when it's more worthwhile for you to just buy the bloody thing yourself. For the cost of a tank of petrol it is definitely worthwhile.

You have to remember the 2zzge is way more efficient than the 1zzge. My wife 1zz auto only gets 500ish ks from a full tank with normal driving. My sportivo never gets under 600ks from a tank even with regular lift right to redline and city driving. My best is 750ks combined (with petrol light on) and my second best is 735ks. Both of these figures were city/hwy driving with zero lift. I reckon i could crack 800 on highway only driving with a jerry can in the boot just in case. The sportivo also has a 60ltr tank whereas the 1zz corolla only has a 55ltr tank. When my fuel light comes on it usually means i have at least 10 litres left so 800ks is possible. Kinda different comparing a 6-speed manual to a 4-speed auto though :P Of course the auto is going to be less efficient.

And for once I actually agree.....

Especially if you get the Legnum, with the twin-turbo V6.....

Think of it this way - imagine you are sucking up Coke through a straw. Assuming the straw is wide enough, the limit on how much Coke you can suck up is your mouth. Adding another straw won't make you suck up more, it will just split the flow. Now if the straw is too small to start off with, you will notice that you'll be limited in how much you can suck up, and adding a second straw will improve flow (up until the limitations of your mouth). But in real life, no car is made with that much of a restriction in the piping stock - a little, maybe (a couple of %, if that) In this metaphor, Coke is air, the straws are the intake pipes, and your mouth the engine. Make sense now?

Butt-dyno. You think there should be a benefit, your ears are hearing new noises that sound "more powerful", so your brain convinces you that there must have been an improvement. Unless you are feeding cooler air into the intake, or there was a massive restriction in the stock inlet piping, you will get NO benefit at the wheels whatsoever. A change in intake noise, yes (thats because the resonators are designed purely and simply for making the intake quiet), but a change in power no.

Unless it was a restriction in the first place :P But yes, a lot of people fail to understand that cars always* suck in the same amount of air even if there is no piping whatsoever and just an open throttle body.

I most certainly hope not, gearboxes have been fully synchronised for well over 20 years (if not 40). Interesting, when I was asking about my box being a bit clunky going into 1st, I was told by a mechanic it's because 1st doesn't have synchro as it's normally not really needed... It's clunky going into first because the synchros will be worn - first gear is the one that gets affected most because it's the biggest torque multiplication, and it's the gear that gets abused most (stop-start traffic, lots of shifting) Your mechanic might be used to dealing with American transmissions in Holdens etc (which were generally very old basic designs and didn't have synchromesh on first), like how some dyno operators say that 4th gear is always 1:1 because it locks the input shaft directly to the output shaft (complete crock of **** in FWD Toyota gearboxes) because most of their knowledge is in RWD transmissions like Toploaders and Tremecs.

They'd better come with a free hairdryer to dry out the interior, and a brand new loom and ECU because the wiring will be completely shot. When we had the floods up here in June '07, there was a massive amount of flood-damaged cars appearing in the wreckers a month or so afterwards, because even though they were completely straight the insurance companies were writing them off on the spot because of water damage - it soaks up into all the insulation, wiring and other electrics and basically turns the entire car into a time-bomb As an idea of how much damage even just a bit of water can do, g/f's best friend's house got about a metre of water through it in the '07 floods......insurance covered damage to carpet, furniture etc as you'd expect........2 months later, the house burnt down. The insulation in the walls sucked up the water like a wick and shorted all the wiring in the roof cavity

Without checking the actual laws, I think it's safe to say that yes carbon-fibre bonnets are illegal, most likely because they haven't been crash-tested and they'd lack a lot of the protection of a normal bonnet for pedestrians.

To quote Wikipedia, easier than typing it out myself, basically Hiro Protagonist (it's pronounced the same as hero, not Highro as a lot of people say) is the main character of a cyber-punk novel by Neal Stephenson called Snow Crash (very pivotal and important book in the cyber-punk era, and sometimes credited as the source of the term avatar in the common modern sense) Hiroaki "Hiro" Protagonist A half-black, half-Korean hacker, swordsman, former Mafia-employed pizza delivery man, and CIC intelligence agent. Hiro has extensive access to the Metaverse, as he was one of its original developers; for instance, he is the undisputed champion of in-Metaverse sword fighting, having written himself the code which makes such sword-fighting possible. (He also shows enough combat skill in Reality to avoid getting killed in any of the fights he gets in; this is ascribed to "inhuman reflexes.") However, he is completely broke in Reality, having sold his stock in Black Sun before the Metaverse got really popular. Snow Crash It's a bloody good book, if you ask me, and I rank it alongside LoTR/Hobbit and the Gap Series as one of the best science fiction/fantasy books of all time.

But that's not the styling trend of current small cars - to maximise interior room whilst minimising exterior dimensions, most car manufacturers have adopted what is known as the "tall-boy" style, where you sit more upright with your arms still outstretched but your legs more vertical. Compared to an old-skool style seating position where you are half laying down and both arms and legs outstretched, it may feel like the wheel needs to move closer to you, but the car is designed that way. In saying that, every car these days _should_ be designed to have both reach and height adjustment on the steering wheel, as well as pedal adjustment - the reason they don't is pure penny-pinching on the behalf of the manufacturers

Where? I can't see it Oh...

I most certainly hope not, gearboxes have been fully synchronised for well over 20 years (if not 40).

Same thing Toymods has, except normal members can't view the Club Members ride section. And half the members have a copy of their Club Members ride thread in the normal section as well

Engine/transmission mounts on a FWD Corolla go something like this: Drivers-side end of the engine, where all the belts are, to just in front of the driver-side strut tower From the exhaust-side of the bellhousing just where it bolts to the engine, to the gearbox crossmember under the engine/gearbox (ie to below the radiator) Passenger-side end of the gearbox, on top, to the passenger-side of the engine bay just in front of the passenger's side strut tower (most likely under the airbox if you have EFI) Intake side of the gearbox, from the diff to the rear of the engine/gearbox crossmember (I think) So basically, 1 engine mount and 3 gearbox mounts, if you're looking down on top and imagine the engine and gearbox as one rectangle then there is one mount on the middle of each side, pretty simple to find but slightly harder to reach.

Is it not safe to assume it is still the same concept though, right? The concept of a replaceable filter element without a casing which been around for quite a while? This is just a development, not re-inventing the wheel - it's like saying that the current Barra motor in the Falcon is related to the original Falcon 250 Crossflow. It's still an engine, which burns petrol to make rotational energy by means of cylinders and a crank shaft, but along the way things have incrementally changed and advances have been made, but the concept is the same Sure, new cars might be using this new style of filter, but probably 90% of the cars older than 3-5 years still use the old style screw-on filter, especially Japanese ones (Euros are a bit different). This means that most of the cars out on the road will need screw-on filters come service time, so both OEM and aftermarket companies are obliged to keep making and stocking screw-on filters - the cartridge style will remain a minority for a long time. Aftermarket companies will be less inclined to start producing a product for a minority of vehicles, and for those that do take it up tooling costs are pretty much the same whether you are making 10 or 10-thousand, so the cost-per filter will be compartively higher unless the intrinsic cost of the filter is significantly less (and filters are pretty damn cheap these days anyway) And that steel (or alloy) can be recycled and re-used (personally I keep my oil filters and recycle them at the yearly Council Chemical Waste collection, which takes the used oil and containers too). Using that logic, why aren't all cars made from fibreglass, thus saving the environment from exponentially more tonnes of steel and alloy being made (how many oil filters do you reckon a car body is worth?) I'm not saying that the cartridge style is better or worse than the traditional screw-on kind, but as long as the screw-on kind remains the predominant style of filter in the OEM and aftermarket community, and they cost peanuts, you won't find car manufacturers trumpeting about the "latest and greatest", because frankly it doesn't matter that much, and the community doesn't care.

There is no way in hell that an exhaust touching the body could produce vibrations like that Engine/transmission mounts would be the first thing I check, if they're fine then it could be that the transmission itself has troubles (evident that it occurs in drive when stopped but not neutral or park). If so, I'd take it to an auto tranny expert, most likely not something you can diagnose or fix yourself.

Yet another spam-bot which posts seemingly helpful but actually very useless information... If you know the model/engine/year of the Hiace, go to ToyoDIY and punch in the details in the parts reference page, and it'll pull up the EPC (Electronics Parts Catalogue), you should be able to find the thermostat and where it's located that way.

Wait, you're complaining that there hasn't been enough lip-service paid to cartridge-style oil filters? Which have been around in Beetles for decades? And I'd love to see how they are _so_ much cheaper and better for the environment, if anything they'd be more expensive because there isn't as big a market for them yet as normal screw-on filters.

Which is why (in NSW at least) they have a great big sign at the start of the school zone telling you the speed and times of operation, pretty easy to check the time on your headunit/clock...... A large proportion of the major school zones these days have solar-powered flashing lights too which automatically turn on during school zone hours, just to drill it into you that little bit more.

If you find it hard to drive at 40km/h for 100m or so, then get off the road, you can't control your vehicle at all. I'd hate to see you in a carpark then, you'd be bouncing off cars left right and centre. Yes it seems slow, but that's the point of school zones - the slower you go, the more likely you are to see and react in time to a little kid jumping out from behind a car. School zones are one area where I think that the speed limit is perfectly acceptable, plus it's perfectly acceptable for the cops to set up radar traps there because speeding through a school zone _is_ dangerous, even moreso than on a normal road.

Mondo Rock - Come Said The Boy Awesome song

I generally fill up to the first click, let it settle for a bit, then go for anothe spurt. If it clicks again really quick (and the hose isn't at some odd angle), then I stop. I've had the click happen after only 30L or so on a pretty much empty tank, the alignment of the filler in the pipe can be very finnicky.