Hiro

Grade? Quantity? Regardless, this information should be in your User Manual, and may also vary depending on the market since your profile says you're not in Australia. And if you don't have a User Manual for whatever reason, then either contact Toyota directly or use an online oil selector guide from one of the reputable oil suppliers like Castrol.

Is there any kind of manual shift mode for the auto? Can you confirm what gear it's actually in? Have you accidentally hit a "Sport Mode" button or the like? The symptoms sound kinda like a torque converter that isn't locking up fully, or a transmission that has a lockout for top-gear/overdrive that won't engage unless certain conditions are met (like temperature, or an on/off button)

@Bens1xx you posted a thread barely a week ago asking if another 15W40 was suitable for your engine, and were told there that the correct oil was 5W30 or 10W30. Also, don't shop for car parts at Coles or Woolies. You wouldn't buy potatoes or nappies from Supercheap Auto, would you?

Synchro rings require a full disassembly and rebuild of the gearbox, ~$3k isn't that unreasonable if they are supplying parts as there is a lot of labour involved

Definitely mid-late 90s common Toyota/Fujitsu Ten head unit, might be hard to pin-point it down to a specific model as they tended to use similar units on most of their range (and each model often had 2-3 different variants too). That one in particular shows up in my '97 Corolla owners manual as the Type B (although it doesn't have the separate CD player controls so yours probably comes from something like a higher-spec Camry), but both of mine had the Type A fitted (where the screen is on the left rather than the middle, and a few other buttons re-arranged)

Not sure on the effect of industrial oils, unfortunately our petrol prices are impacted much more by Singapore/Tapis than Brent so it might be a bit longer before the drop hits our part of the world (looks like Tapis tends to follow Brent fairly closely but always be more expensive relatively)

6L is an annoying size for me as generally Corollas take ~3.5-4L, so a 5L bottle was always good for having 1L spare left over for top-ups/emergencies. Although now that I think about it, if I get another 6L bottle then I would have enough for 3 full changes (I don't like leaving oil bottles half-full for really long periods of time though if I can avoid it, especially if I'm relying on it for a full change)

If it's anything like my parent's '96 Camry, if you don't close the boot lid properly with the car locked it'll beep the horn too

This is just the pedant in me coming out, but Aisan and Aisin are two completely different companies. Both are deeply associated with Toyota however - Aisan will be mainly engine components (historically carburetors and fuel systems) and Aisin will be predominantly drivetrain components (although they do engine stuff too along with just about everything else)

Wheel PCD should be 5x114.3, stock wheels were most likely in the range of 14x5" or +27 (that's what the next model MS65 had from my brief search). Tyre size will be harder since most catalogues don't go back that far, and from factory they would have been running cross-ply tyres or radials with 82% aspect ratio (early radials were pretty much all the same sidewall aspect ratio so the tyre code didn't list it, just something like 185R14 in a similar vein to commerical truck tyres)

Yeah remote boot release just means you don't have to be standing physically at the lock to open it. My '98 Corolla lists "remote boot release" but it is 100% just a lever in the cabin even on the highest spec.

Having just fitted a towbar to my wagon I can assure you you don't have to remove anything in the rear of the car to fit it ..... Wiring it, on the other hand, does require the disassembly of pretty much all of the trim below the windows and behind the rear seats (as there isn't a dedicated trailer piggyback plug in the wagons unlike the sedans)

Hmmm, been thinking it's probably time for the first oil change on the wagon, need to do the valve cover gasket too so would make sense to do it all at once

Without commenting on the quality or performance of whatever oil Coles rebrands, 15W40 is significantly thicker than what is recommended for the 2GRFE in the Aurion. Online lube guides etc call for either 5W30 or 10W30.

The nylon bushes around the shifter may well be self-lubricating, but otherwise a small blob of white lithium or silicone paste should be fine (as they are plastic/rubber-safe), work it around to get it distributed and then clean off any excess (so it doesn't attract dirt/dust/crumbs)

ZRE152 steering wheel now fitted, SWCs aren't hooked up until I can get a new clock spring (going to switch to black fascia too, silver doesn't suit the Ascent interior) but already feels tonnes better than the stock vinyl noodle-ring.

Short version, towbar now fits - just have to rip the interior trim out of the boot to see if there's any pre-wired plugs of whether we'll have to wire it in from scratch Long version - measured the mounting points on the car with stringlines and plumbs, sent dimensions to manufacturer who confirmed that their entire _batch_ was out (must have been an issue with the jig if that's the case), sent out a new towbar adjusted to the exact dimension of what I had (just in case) and arranged for Toll to pick the other one up (so at least I didn't have to schlep to the post office). One of the tow hook bolt holes was on the verge of stripping out however (not uncommon by the sounds of it) so had to chase it out with a thread tap, of course it had to be the one with the tightest clearance and worst access (muffler side, closest to bumper, and with a useless plastic tab on the bumper getting in the way). Next up is chasing down a facelift ZRE152 steering wheel so I can have SWC for the headunit (although Android Auto is now broken due to my new phone, also seems to be a common problem with S22s). Also picked up a full set of power windows/switches and door trims, at some stage I'll have to pull the interior apart and see how much is also pre-wired for them.

"Lift" is an enthusiast term referring to the secondary high-valvelift camshaft profile (like Honda's VTEC) that the 2ZZGE has, not everyone will recognise the word. If something mentions a clogged lift filter, it is referring to the filter screens on the VVT and VVL oil control solenoids which attach to the head. That should be more than enough information for Toyota, and most mechanics that deal with modern engines should also at least understand what those components are (even if they don't know _where_ they are)

*sparkle sparkle

Are you trying to remove the headlight assembly or the indicator assembly? The indicator housing (where the parkers are on the US models too it seems) only has one screw on the top and then it just pops out (there might be a clip/pin at the bottom that needs a bit of force to unclip, this is the case on my AE102 which has a similar arrangement). The headlight assembly has to come out second (not that you'd need to take it out to change an indicator bulb) as there is a nut at the bottom/side in behind the indicator housing as well as the two bolts on top EDIT: hang on, looks like the last of the MCX10s had that single-piece headlight housing which I don't think the US ever got, in which case there looks to be two screws on the bottom as well as two at the top (one at the inner bottom "tip" next to the grille, one on the outer bottom "side" behind the bumper, which means you may need to remove the bumper (sounds like a pain but is common on a lot of newer cars https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/403181509815?chn=ps&_ul=AU&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=403181509815&targetid=1278990506306&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9112793&poi=&campaignid=10101784946&mkgroupid=125571292951&rlsatarget=pla-1278990506306&abcId=9300367&merchantid=507151891&gclid=CjwKCAiAgbiQBhAHEiwAuQ6BkqwLbiB_mlwCURSAJS-FmNAfTvVo4EzTONdBKooCfCqAUL6ZU8Y4SxoC1CMQAvD_BwE

The wire running from the brake pedal to the selector will probably be for the shift interlock, which stops you from being able to move the transmission out of PARK without pressing the brake pedal (obviously not needed on an auto). I'm almost certain that your problem will lie with the wires that have been cut up above where the clutch pedal used to live (or the plugs that have been taped over), not with the brake pedal (as pressing the brake on a manual cuts cruise-control off too, so that shouldn't have changed). Unfortunately I don't have a wiring diagram to confirm.

Part of the problem is that China often doesn't really recognise international copyright (it's a lot more complicated than that however), and in the case of outright fakes/dupes it can be extremely difficult to even determine who the infringing party is, let alone prosecute them.

Yep, ground wire for the head, the ring terminal goes on the rear-most bolt of the power steering reservoir bracket (which would make sense, since you said the steering gear has been replaced)

I assume you mean the wire/ring-terminal just to the right of the washer bottle? Most likely a ground, when my wagon re-appears this weekend I'll confirm

Is this your first new car in a long time? Countless other new cars have warning beeps for just about every function you have listed