viper33

Most likely a fuel filter not fitted right 80k service includes a fuel filter replacement, and if an o ring gets pinched while fitting this is a pretty common symptom

^ Toe can be measure in mm or degrees, pretty sure manual gives the measurement in degrees Im fairly sure factory specs for a standard corolla are +0.7 or +0.5 mm on each side, so sportivo will probably be the same

Try and find a workshop manual Should be one on the net

It might, like i said make sure you buy a 6 point socket if your nut has 6 points or 12 point if its got 12 points Also depends on how much thread/shaft is sticking out and how deep the socket is, don't wanna end up with a socket that is too short to reach the nut

Not exactly, you can destroy a battery is less than half that time It all depends on how you treat the battery Like someone already mentioned, leaving the ignition on or lights on all drains power from the battery when the engine isn't running You run your battery flat once and it'll never be the same Most hard to start problems generally end up being a bad battery, so its always the best place to check first

If you skip services don't go ranting on the forum about how toyota won't fix your sludged up engine under warranty Also have you read the owners or service book? It pretty clearly states thats the car should be serviced either at a certain number of kms or a certain number of months, whichever comes first Sorry If i sound rude, but I just don't get the whole "service my car? nah i'll just skip a few services, and then skip all the expensive ones, should be sweet.....oh **** motor crapped itself, toyota won't fix it, never buying toyota again" attitude people have towards their cars

Yeah its probably a 30mm or 32mm, make sure you buy the right socket but i.e. 6 point or 12 point

No worries at all Yeah I'm running some nice ns312 studs Can't remember size but was roughly 8mm longer than stock i think, which was good enough for me Google their website and they've got a pretty good catalogue which lists sizes, lengths, shoulder length, knurl diameter etc etc

In my opinion, I wouldn't worry about it unless you do a lot of long trips I was riding on 3 17s and a 14 inch space saver for a week, car was scary to drive at times but that was probably due to the way i drove it and it being a spacesaver and having no grip at all In the end, the spare is a spare, you put it on if you get a puncture or something, drive home and then get it fixed asap

Shouldn't matter too much, mines the same and im running a knurl diameter of 14.3mm Knurl diameter on old corollas stock is 14.22mm or something, so its less than a millimetre As for shoulder length, as long as its not shorter than stock or the knurl on the shoulder doesn't sit too far out, it should be ok if its a little bit bigger Doesn't have to be exactly what the stock one is

Taking the dash(-) out of the part number and searching for it on the dorman website i listed comes up with this http://www.dormanproducts.com/advance/gsearch.aspx?type=oesearch&OE=1&q=9094202049 Seems right, only thing that confused me is listing a part number for lhs & rhs, but if you look at them then its the same part number So yep thats the part number

I'm 99% sure it'll have a part number for the stud You might not be looking in the right section, it should be in hub section or with brakes or something (its better known as hub stud) Also another thing i forgot about studs is the shoulder length and knurl diameter Google for what they are, much better description than what i can come up with Get oem part number, go to http://www.dormanproducts.com/ and type it in It'll give you dimensions for replacement parts in oem size so you can get the oem sizes that toyodiy won't list Then figure out how much longer you wanna go/need Also just remember that measuring the amount of thread sticking out of the rotor/hub isn't the measurement manufacturers use So if you have 10mm sticking out and you buy a stud 15mm long, you'll actually have less stud sticking out because the manufacturers include the shoulder length or in other words its from the base of the stud to the end EDIT: theres a company called nice products or something in australia which sells heaps of different size and length stud and nuts Google for their website, and repco is the local retailer so get part number and call repco

I think the trd head gasket is what you're after? Pretty sure castle hill toyota stock them or can get them in Or ebay As for cams theres so many aftermarket brands you can buy in all sorts of profiles depending on how much you're willing to spend Toda and tomei being one of the better ones

Lol is this a serious question? You're asking about a car which came out not too long ago and you want to get it serviced by a workshop which knows what they're doing? Definitely don't go to a toyota dealer, i mean its not like they have bulletins on how to service the new model, use the correct tools and fluids, any recalls or updates for it and have technicians who work on toyotas all day

Get part number from toyodiy And google it Or alternative google to find what size stud you have i.e. m12x1.5, m12x1.25 etc (m12 being the diameter of the stud and 1.25 is thread pitch/how co**** or thin the thread is) Then find out how long stock studs are, google it Then if you're using closed end wheel nuts measure how deep the nuts are Then do some calculations to figure out how long you can go on studs without having to buy longer nuts or using open ended nuts or just buy them and have the studs sticking out

Get a few quotes, might be a little bit cheaper to replace the bumper than fix & repaint (im only assuming but, better to check with a body shop)

Im a bit confused, unsure if you mean that it wasn't cleaned last service or if you meant that it wasn't replaced last service Anyway a/c filter replacements are not part of the service, they cost like 100 something dollars i think unless the service book specifically says replace a/c filter Cleaning is a part of the service but you'll find that and spare tyre pressure are some of the things dodgy techs seem to skip coz its too much effort

Take it back to the workshop and get them to do it, make sure you check the oi level correctly though, like kenshin said make sure its on a straight surface and not uphill/downhill I dunno if or how much problem the extra oil will cause, but why leave it like that when you know its a problem

Get a light and try and look at the colour of the coolant in the reservoir or open your radiator cap(when engine is cold) and have a look at coolant that way Pink is super long life, red is long life Although if red has been watered down over time it might look pink now Other option is to find the owners manual and have a look in there EDIT: Ideally you shouldn't mix brake fluid types/ brands, besides if the brake fluid is over 2 years old or the brakes feel spongy you're probably better off doing a brake bleed You can get away with 1 bottle if you don't spill any, but i'd recommend getting 2 anyway

Since theres not 20 threads on this same issue, i imagine you're just one of the unlucky ones and thats to be expected with any manufacturer There'll always be a large number of cars which will last forever without issues like they're meant to and there'll be a small number which may have minor issues Besides you should be glad its something minor and electrical and nothing major to do with the engine or gearbox

Drain coolant from radiator and block, refill coolant, and bleed cooling system Wouldn't use any of the radiator flush stuff

For sale: A set of 4x100, 16x7 +43 enkei RPF1s in satin? black, very good condition Comes with tyres or can take them off if you want, if i remember right they're 205 50 16 re001s with 2 having decent amount of tread left and 2 being close to the minimum Price/Conditions: Unsure what the wheels are worth but not having a second set of wheels yet, would be good if i can get a set of say 15 inch steelies or anything that i can drive it around on until i get a new set and i'll reduce the price accordingly Was quoted around 1300 bucks for 15inch rpf1s so im hoping for around 1k maybe? Pictures: Will upload some more tomo or on the weekend Contact Details: Here or can text or call me on 0432655868 Location: Castle hill, NSW Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Pick up is preferred, if you can organise a courier i'd be happy to help but im at work from 7-5 everyday so cant organise anything Could maybe try and deliver if you're local

Also only benefit of iridium plugs is that they dont need replacing as often but they do cost 4 times as much as normal ones

Iridium plugs should not be longer than normal ones unless its a completely different plug If you have your current ngk part number then go to their site and it'll tell you the iriduim plug to buy

What do you mean by better spark plugs? Its one of those things that even the performance guys use only whats recommended in the workshop manual unless its a heavily modded engine I for one would not use anything longer than the stock spark plugs