viper33

Not as simple as that unfortunately (if i remember right) You do have to pop off the black triangular trim, but you'll also need to take the door trim off to disconnect the mirror and reconnect new one

Thanks for clearing that up djkor, haven't had much to do with PFL aurions To the OP if the service is due then get it done, there is a reason why the manual says "kms or months....whichever comes first" 12 months is a pretty long time to go between oil changes as it is

Why did you replace the relays? Also is there a fuse box underneath the glove box? Might have a little plastic cover on the bottom that may be covering it Looked through the owners manual to see locations of all fuses & fuse boxes? Might have to take it to an auto electrician

Keep the car at lower revs and in a higher gear all the time, avoid braking, dont use aircon radio or anything else that'll consume power etc etc

Don't aurions have 9months or 15000kms service intervals? If so whats a 4 year service? Are you sure you're not reading the "Additional maintenance for severe operating conditions" page? Either way if the car is due for a service then get it done, ignoring it is only gonna cause more harm and will probably cost a lot more than the few hundred you saved by not servicing it

I dunno how much toyota charges for oil but realistically on a car like a kluger any oil with the same viscosity(ie 10w30, 10w40) and same type(synthetic, semi-synthetic etc) will roughly be the same oil By that I mean if you buy synthetic 10w40 from toyota and buy synthetic 10w40 from castrol it really won't make that much difference, provided its the right type and viscosity So again i dunno what toyota charges but if its a lot more than a similar oil off the shelf of repco or something it might not be worth the extra money Also I don't own a kluger so im not sure what viscosity people use in it, but generally anything the owners manual recommends is good enough, brand is more of a preference thing with each owner As for oil filters, id recommend to pay a little more and buy genuine

Buy your own engine oil and the workshop that does the service should easily be able to use that instead of their own oil, provided its the same or a better oil

Can't hear that very well, but even if i could i wouldn't be able to tell where the noise is coming from Yeah I don't think you should have to pull the door trim apart on a brand new car either, but if everytime the car is at the dealers they can't hear it on a road test then theres not a lot you can do You could request them to take the trim off and have a look for anything loose I've never had to take the trim off new model camry's but should be similar to other cars and its generally a fairly simple processs First look for all the visible screws/clips and take them out Generally almost always one behind the door lock/handle, have to take the little plastic bit off first that goes over it Then theres usually one or 2 screws under the plastic bit on the door handle Normally a clip or 2 somewhere around the outer side of the door trim Generally have to take the triangular shaped cover off on the inside above the door trim which covers the nuts/studs for the mirror Once all thats off, pull the bottom of door trim out, the clips can be fairly tight Then if the whole bottom feels free theres usually nothing else holding it on, if it feels tight, try and see if you can find any other screws or clips Once thats done, lift the trim up at a slight angle(pulling the door trim towards you slightly and lifting it up) It should pop off, but will probably need to disconnect the window switch and if theres a door light at the bottom before you can move it away completely Sounds more complicated then it is Oh also might be easier to do if the windows all the way down

Any idea what the problem was with the US camrys? I would say take the door trim off and check all bolts but like you said its a brand new car and sometimes you can break things if you don't know how to take it off

To be fair, the dealer can't exactly spend hours trying to diagnose a problem they can't even hear or see Try and get someone to sit in the passenger seat with a torch, go for a long drive, get them to figure out roughly where its coming from, get them to put pressure on the areas/parts where the rattles coming from to see if it helps Most commong problem with rattles especially in new cars is **** rolling around in the centre console/boot etc, or a coin hiding somewhere or a peanut under the carpet or something similar So be sure to empty anything that can roll around first, have a look under the seat and get rid of anything thats loose or can rattle

Does it come off all the way? Can you take a picture of the back side of it? There should be nothing but clips holding it in, so if it doesn't go in when you push it don't force it Its probably a bent or missing clip

Open your bonnet, and try and get someone to rev up the car to see if the tapping increases with the revs If it does, grab a screwdriver and put one end onto the cylinder head and your ear on the other end to listen If you can hear it pretty clearly coming from the head and it goes up with revs, then it could very likely be that your valve clearances need to be adjusted If i remember right then checking them is done every 40k for diesels and 80k for petrol cruisers according to the service manual

Lol that doesn't make the aurion a much more powerful car or anything Just probably had a more experienced driver plus being a cop so not afraid to speed or chase FWD vs RWD, i know which one id much rather have

Sounds like a dodgy dealership Every big and small workshop has a roadtester or someone who checks the car over after every job especially for things like spanners in the engine bay To be honest though, leaving the tools is an honest mistake and happens quite frequently, but that is exactly why the roadtesters are there for And i can understand leaving a sensor disconnected after a 90k, everyones left something disconnected once in their life, when you're working under pressure and disconnect a lot of things to get to 1 thing at times you forget to plug everything back, especially if its not in plain sight But saying that they should've fixed it straight away even if it means staying back coz in the end they ****** up They couldn't possibly have left the battery disconnected? I mean how did they drive it out the workshop and into the customers parking with no battery? Probably left accessories on for too long and let it go flat, but told you some bs story And every dealer should have the diagnostic tool for their make Coz some of the most common jobs at a dealership would involve it coz most small workshop mechanics might not have the scanners for it Only thing i'll say in their defence is the service advisors are generally idiots who overbook jobs and a lot of customers are unrealistic with time requirements For eg the car will be booked for 2 hours for a certain job and then the customer will have a few things he wants checked out on top but they expect it all to be done in the time not realising that we have plenty of other jobs where the same thing happens, and we aren't exactly all waiting for you to come in so we can start working on your car right away So i can understand if the intermediate shaft didn't get checked if it wasn't booked in for it, but for everythign else theres no excuse

Any slight issue you think the car has bring it up before warranty expires, coz once warranty is over the manufacturer legally doesn't have to fix anything for free But yeah steering clunk is common amongst aurions and klugers, for kluger the intermediate shaft gets replaced and for aurions the intermediate shaft gets lubed Havent heard of this whine before The power/acceleration problems someone mentioned can generally be fixed by resetting the ecu as from my knowledge its got a learning type ecu which adapts to your driving style So if youve been grannying the car around and then suddenly one day put your foot down, there'll be a bit of lag as the car will be used to holding a higher gear

Just browsed through the thread Has anyone tried playing around with the tie rods to counter the steering being off Coz at work if a car has the steering slighty off after a wheel alignment(generally coz steering wasn't dead centre when aligned) you can easily make it centre without using the maching provided you know which way to turn the tie rods I'd be happy to show what i mean in person, bit hard to explain over the internet

^ If its the 19inch wheels then the prices are ridiculous Most of the time klugers need new tyres as they've been run on low pressures and the sides wear out whereas theres plenty of tread left in the centre Just something to keep in mind, might not help OP

^ Fair enough, couldn't remember if there were any clips hidden behind the seat But yeah the seats are on very very tight

The last part about service advisors making money from upsells is true, see plenty of that at my work every day. Some of the most **** selfish (I am an idiot i swear) ive met. So if they see an old asian lady who doesn't speak very good english or knows anything about cars, they've hit their jackpot(not intended to be a racist statement). I've seen them upsell stuff like power steering flush without even looking at the fluid. The techs send them a quote for stuff the car needs like brakes and tyres and the service advisor instead upsells stuff like wheel alignments and throttle body cleans, which is great if you get pulled over on bald tyres. But the upside of taking your car to a dealership(ie toyota at toyota, ford at ford etc) is the fact that the mechanics and apprentices work on the same model cars day in and day out. They know them very well and know exactly what to look for and common faults. So your small workshop mechanic at times may take 4 hours to diagnose a problem whereas the dealership tech will do it in 1 coz hes seen it in plenty of cars before. And the more time a mechanic spends on diagnosing the more its costing you.

A thermostat that doesn't let coolant through can cause a blown headgasket But like teguy said it doesn't make any noises, the 2 issues could be related or maybe they're not Where does the clunk come from? Is it when the car is in gear, neutral, park? Does it happen when its not moving or when its moving? Does it happen all the time or is it intermittent? Either way like teguy said im pretty sure dealers provide a 3 month warranty or something so definitely take it back and get them to fix it

Need to take rear seats off, only passenger side if i remember right, then the carpet needs to be moved(pretty easy), then find a way to undo the lock ring on it using whatever tools you have

If it came on after the codes being cleared, take it back to the dealership and get them to check it again

^ Lol its not exactly a secret But from my experience with 8/10 cars the last 3 digits of the vin won't work Think its the dealers who set the pin...not too sure though

You'll have to take the rear seats off, haven't tried without taking the seats off so i don't know if it can be done or not

^ Not sure who you're referring to but i don't think i said anything that isn't backed up Have a bit of a closed mind don't you rice racing, anyone who argues with you must have no experience with cars coz your the ultimate service god Sounds to be like a toyota dealership sacked you for sleeping on the job and you're trying to get back at them