SILVABULLIT

Perhaps an upset on the cards :P guess you'll have to wait and see....

Firstly the Porsche runs independant front suspension(trailing arm type) and on the rear its a full IRs with torsion bars hence no need for the springs as the torsion bar holds the weight of the car and the shocks control the rebound. Being that i own a rear engined VW with the same type of suspension the handling characteristics between the Stivo and VW/Porsche are totally different. If I'm pushing hard into a corner in the Stivo and understeer happens you feather the throttle and gently steer out of it. On the other hand in my VW if this happens you just get off the throttle completely then just stand on the gas again and the rear will then steer as it pushes the front around and if anything will create a little bit of oversteer. IRS with torsion bar with the trailing arm works very well and if anything I feel that I can push the Mighty Kombi harder in and out of corners than the Stivo by simply steering on the throttle. For the Brissy boys who know my Kombi and have seen it will know what I'm talking about.....(it's nearly as low as my Stivo ;) ) Pacific Hwy heading north at the Gateway Mwy turnoff. Kombi inside lane at 125km/hr and the Stivo at 115km/hr before understeer starts to set in Big advantage of the Stivo is that I can drive the Stivo harder for longer(lighter,power steering!!!!) Kombi will make you sweat in no time as you have to man handle it lol

you could... just need the right products and some elbow grease.. and someone who knows how to detail B) SB is my name and detailing is my game B) B) But your not in Brisbane so you'll have to settle for second best ;)

Maybe the massage cushion and the George Foreman grille in the glove box just sucked the battery dry and the ol' alternator just couldn't spin it's little insides fast enough to keep the massage cushion massaging and the grille cooking :P

C'mon Nat use the search button you lazy boy!!!! what's with all the questions about the Stivo all of a sudden???? You selling the golf and coming back to the dark side????

Any word on the judges criteria???? ;) Looking your way Buddha.....

1ZZ is already roughly 2" in diameter. As I have said before the stock Sportivo system works well on a 1zz. Have a look in the garage as to who has it fitted and ask them what they think. Some have even had dyno's done to compare the difference. SPORTIVO SYSTEM DOES WORK ON A 1ZZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! But does it work as well as an aftermarket system? How long's a piece of string and how much does he really want to spend???

Superlows on stock shocks basically means that you're riding on the stops. Coilovers will make a huge difference but a rear sway bar and front strut brace will also be of benefit handling wise. Koni's with kings lows will improve your handling out of sight as well for a cheaper alternative to DECENT Coilovers not the cheapo ones. :D

I'm pretty sure the list posted is of those who have false teeth... cause their real teeth have fallen out LOLOLOLOLOLOL

So you should :P Only 2 weeks away kids so get organised!!!

Being that I'm a car detailer and have prolly cleaned more engine bays than some of have had birthdays here's how to do it. Wrap up your alarm speaker. (if you don't then it'll prolly never work again :P ) If you have a CAI then it's up to you whether you wrap it up(I've done my car heaps and never had a problem). Just don't deliberately hit the pod with the pressure cleaner. Start your engine and let it warm up a little. Gets everything hot and the heat tends to keep moisture out of where it's not meant to be. Never get the pressure cleaner too close to anything in the engine bay. Don't go blasting electrical connections but instead keep a good distance between the surface your trying to clean. I find that the $2 degreaser from Autobarn to be pretty good for removing most grease,grime or oil. Spray dirty areas with degreaser as necessary but don't drown anything electrical. When you're finished start the engine and close the bonnet as the heat will then dry it out if you don't have compressed air. This is what I do and have never had any probs :D

toyo t1r's are great but don't expect long life from them. Yokies in the C drive and A drive are pretty expensive about 270 each. As for the Fulda's they are German made by bridgestone rev spec factory and are pretty good value for money at @190 each for 215/40/17. I have these on my car and over my last tyres(Goodyear F1's) are way better in every aspect(wet,dry cornering and braking). So watch out Harry....... :P

So who's gonna be the giunea pig on this one?????(looking at those with deep pockets cause you'll need them :P :P :P )

1ZZ is already roughly 2" in diameter. As I have said before the stock Sportivo system works well on a 1zz. Have a look in the garage as to who has it fitted and ask them what they think. Some have even had dyno's done to compare the difference. SPORTIVO SYSTEM DOES WORK ON A 1ZZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yep your rear shocks are stuffed. The patchy tyre wear is from the tyre bouncing off the road on bumps as the shocks cannot control the rebound.

Sounds like a puncture. Low profile tyres don't like being driven on flat and even for a short distance you can do damage. Because the sidewall is so small it has very little flex(unlike say a 60 series tyre) so it heats up quickly and then starts to get a distinct wear line on the side wall. If heats up enough it begins to crack then ultimately it just tears the sidewall completely out of the tyre. That sounds like what has happened :D

If the stock exhaust manifold fits on the engine in your car then the CES headers will fit as well ;) I must say that's a nice medal you got there 76 ACC!!!

Well they are ok if you want it for looks only as for a functioning "quality" strut bar just bar the TRD one those ball-joint style strut bars are rubbish!!! Ball Joint types aren't rubbish!! :( If they are fitted correctly and adjusted right then they work just as good as the TRD one anyday. And if you want to question me then I have currently fitted approximately 10 to 15 strut bars and have not had a problem with any of them. Ask any of the Brissy boys that I have fitted one for and I'm sure they'll give a positive response ;)

Somebody give this man a medal!!! Absolute words of wisdom ;) Let's hope that everyone understands that and doesn't start the same ol' conflict again and again :)

The rear axle beam is the hollow beam that the sway bar is located in and connects to both the rear wheels.

Queensland members hello!!!!!!! I know there is a lot more of you out there who have said you are coming so how about letting me know that your a definate??

Not necessarily ... I'm thinking of having a "Contemporary Mudflap" category for those who still have their mudflaps and a "Post Mudflap" category for those who've removed theirs. However, it would appear that I will be the only one in the "Modified Mudflap" class! ;) Think again Buddha as I'm pretty sure that I would have to compete in the modified mudflap class as mine are colour coded :P So you will have competition... As for date for the CES dyno day it'll prolly be around the 29th July. Just have to confirm dates with CES as to which dates fits in with them. :D

Apparently I am. I just returned from my tuner and payed an advance on them. They should arrive this week, piper had them on stock en somewhere next week they will be installed. Pretty nervous about it since it is the first 'real' engine mod I'm gooing through with. Do not scream about dyno numbers, I do not have a baserun and even after the mod I will not promptly have them perform a run. Since I have no way of tuning anything and piper built them for the stock ECU I do not see the use of dynoing it. I do will test the 0-60 and the 400 times with my G-tech wich I'm verry used to and that should give me a verry accurate view of the actual gains in speed and acceleration. Are you changing valves, retainers, springs etc???Or just bunging the cams in on the stock stuff??If this is your only engine mod then the gains will be minimual. Do intake, exhaust etc and power will improve rather nicely. ;)

$500 plus exchange of your stock set. ;)

i know the fittings on the pre and post face lift headlights are fairly different so id say it would be model specific.. my toyota mate reckons that all the zze12X stuff will fit on each version, the problems you will run into will be things like are the panels the right ones to fit with those lights... the zze122 black rear lights from some other thread will fit on the zze123, but the headlights from a Matrix will not fit unless you change the entire front panels and bumper etc, as it all fits together... I am only repeating what I've been told. oh, fittings I'm not so sure about, but they're "just a simple re-wire" and it'd be sorted, but physically they should fit. Headlights between pre facelift and facelift models are totally different and the whole front bumper assembly and front guards are different as well. All tail lights will be interchangable but just need some minor wiring and plug changes.