SILVABULLIT

Nebo run meet at the pool at 9pm for 9.20pm departure. Jollys then down to Samford and back to town??? Everybody happy with this plan???

Still not a lot locally available for ZRE's. KYB should have some struts available march/april and as for sways I'm guessing in the first half of this year sometime. whiteline are no longer making sways for ZZE122/3's!!! Now they are being made by shelby's which i am trying to source prices and availability for those interested.

Looking good man!!

Superdave I hear a few granny changes in there LOL. By looking at the video I cansee a few places where you could possibly make better use of track and maybe improve times. Thinking I might have to come out to next one if it doesn't clash with the co-cirricular activities and help you guys out with some info and set up.

Pics and times from others... Or ban :P

the car we used for initial development is no longer available to use. i did post up a while ago if someone in brisbane had a ZRE to use as a test car we could continue the development. Alas no reply. The CAI is basically all there ready to be made and fitted to a car. just need a car to do it. If ZRE owners show interest then contact CES and let them know. If they get a fair few requests then action will be taken to put it into production. cost wise at this stage is prolly going to be roughly the same as the CAI for the ZZE corolla's. I will chat to Trevor next week regarding this if i see enough GENUINE interest i will try and source a car to get it happening. Otherwise I will not waste my time as I am pretty busy ATM.

So who's out tonight?? I'll be out delivering some Eibach goodness.....

Why don't you want to port the stock headers??? You don't know what you are missing out on..... :P

I always run it over the top of the brace. Adjust the spring mount on the fire wall so that it holds the cable over the top of the brace.

so have you got rid of the silly car yet Jimmy and bought a corolla???

Stickers are now available and in supply. Xoom has some which he will have the monthly meet this weekend. PM me for one quick!!

Do they have a course in fluent Yobbo??? Right up your alley me thinks LOL :P

Westside are the way to go. speak to Brad and tell him Brennden sent you there and he'll look after you.

KYB have part no's for Excel G's for the 152's but they won't be available till march/april.

Pre facelift is single plastic lid and facelift has double lid with extra storage compartment and is leather trimmed.

Next nebo cruise i wouldn't mind taking the aurion for spin up the mountain to see what it behaves like. Plus give you some pointers on safe driving within your limits. Phil sounds like you need to tie the back of your car down a lil more Funny how nobody mentioned the use of the handbrake....... LOL

I got a CV boot replaced under warranty while my Sportivo was lowered. Guess you just have to know what to say and how to say it LOL

Bill make sure you have the plastic seat cover on the passsenger seat. Easy to remove mess on seat that way......

Thanks for the comments Doriae. I have measured a car with SL's all round and yes it does sit quite close to level(+/- 5mm). for some reason lows have the difference in height. the only thing I haven't done but will do so on the next install i do is measure spring heights unweighted and see what the difference is.

Hit dealerships you have a relationship with. That's what we did....... and got a fair bit of stuff!!

Boat ramp Shultz's canal at Nudgee near the refues transfer station. If there are no lights there it will be very dark LOL The people who are going from boost cruising... not keen on the idea myself. Far too many people on that forum that only know one speed ... flat out even in car parks.... would prefer it if it was TOCAU only then boost losers at another site.....

No wiring headaches either. this connector goes to this plug.....

Some know who make the kits while others don't. post them up anyway. Trial = JDMpriced, but is meant to be a true 2L. Not really worth the money for 0.06L MWR = 1.94L Brashboy is a MWR kit. Might have been a Trial kit but doubt it as it would lower their profit margins. If you install Piper cams with the kit then you can up the compression ratio to make up for the loss in dynamic compression ratio. 12.3:1 gets the dynamic compression ratio with the Pipers to about where the stock engine is. It isn't recommended to rev the stroker kits much above 8000rpm as not enough people have done it, or shared the information. Superdave...G-Day.... Yeah I have seen the kits on MWR ....I like the options that you can pick to suit. I have also seen a few things from the USA like a super strong oil pump. Just for the 2ZZ. I have a few things in mind for the future ....but ever so interested. Anyone know here in Australia that can do kits like this or make the 2zz a strong low compression for turbo?? CES did a turbo conversion on a sportivo. Made 269kw atw. Xoom's car is roughly the same. Both set ups require deep pockets and a lot patience.....

Well seing as i am the culprit of the lows/superlows set up I guess I should add my weights and findings to this discussion. Firstly Low kings are 35mm drop. Superlows are 50mm drop. That is the fact from King spring themselves. Whiteline do 30mm drop. I had kings lows all round on Koni's for quite some time and it wasn't till one day I was over a mates place and he commented on how the rear sits higher than the front. This then got the mouse in the wheel in my head working overtime. I went to my suspension wholesaler who not only supplies stuff but also specialises in race suspension set ups for track and rally. I spoke at length to their head suspension technician who is an accomplished driver in both rally and circuit and explained to him what I was looking to do. I threw him the idea of superlows in the rear perhaps. My car went into the workshop and the measuring began. Rear sat approx 15mm higher in the rear than the front. This is measuring from the guard to hub centre not measuring to the ground as wheel/tyre combos will give different readings all the time. Super lows were agreed to be the solution to the problem. I then posed the question of spring rates. Superlows do have a heavier spring rate as they are physically a shorter spring and are set with a tighter coil than lows are.(hence the "higher" spring rate). Yes they are a slightly progressive spring but compared to lows the difference is so minimual it would be very hard to tell the difference in actual ride comfort over a minute dip/bump. But once the spring is trying to be compressed further than the first coil say the difference begins. Superlows are a lot stiffer and do not allow the car to squat in the rear and lift the nose like lows do. Plus having the car sitting level does many things to braking and handling abilities which nearly all are positive. And it didn't ride harsher as my wife didn't even notice the difference!!(I didn't tell her I swapped the springs LOL) Best analogy i can use is imagine you have a scooter. Now this scooter has a slightly bigger wheel on the rear than the front making it lean forward. Now the handle bars are at the front and consequently the majority of the weight on the scooter is at the front as you have your hands on the handle bars and are leaning forward(just like a sportivo. 2/3 of the cars weight is on the front wheels). Now if you have brakes on both wheels of the scooter(like the car has brakes front and back) and have to brake hard what happens?? your weight leans forward transferring more weight on the front wheel than the rear as it does in a car plus the car also has larger brakes on the front. Why? If the majority of your weight is on the front axle then putting bigger brakes on the rear will do squat apart from lock up hence why larger on front where most of the weight is. Now if the scooter is sitting nose down already what happens when you hit the brakes hard?? It nose dives even further with the subsequent weight transfer. What happens to the rear brakes??? They lock up as the weight is transferred forward under heavy braking and as the scooter has unequal height front to rear and will subsequently cause rear lock up moreso as momentum weight is transferred forward off the rear making it much lighter than if it were sitting level and when you have no weight lock up is enivitable. That is one big difference I noticed with going from lows to SL's in the rear. Heavy braking the car felt more stable and more controlled and as someone had already mentioned it does also reduce heavy braking tram tracking or wondering in the front. It certainly doesn't allow the rear to lift like a mongrel dog that has had a swift kick up the bum. Depending on you rim's offset will also affect how much tram trakcing you get. Handling benefits are plentiful too. Unfortunately some of you think that making the car stiff as is the way to make it handle. WRONG! Front wheel drive cars have to be set up totally different to rear wheel drive AWD or even rear engined rear wheel drive(before you ask VW/Porsche) the secret to make a front wheel drive car handle is finding the perfect balance between being able to absorb road/track impact(bumps/dips etc) and controlled rebound. Now the biggest mistake most people make with a FWD car is to make the front too stiff. Sportivo's have plenty of understeer in stock form with most of it caused by a high suspension stance with softish dampeners which allows what i see as ridiculous amounts of body roll for a "sports" model. So instantly most go out and by a heavier front and rear sway bar. Wrong again. All this does is make the understeer worse as it wont allow the inside front wheel to stay on the ground and transfers all the front weight/grip to the outside wheel which it simply cannot do then you have the tyre trying to peel off the rim and the weight transfer trying to flex the suspension that much to the point of causing positive camber. Plus outside wheel essentially loses drive in an open diff situation and you are spinning the inside wheel with no grip as the diff transfers drive to the wheel with least resistance. Front grip reaches the point of no adhesion and you go straight ahead off the road/over the edge. If you want to put a heavier sway on the front then you need to go one stage heavier on the rear. (Only really necessary for high track use as that's the only place you'll benefit from it.) Now for those who are going to say "add a LSD" and it won't do it. It still will but not as bad as the inside wheel is still trying to drive and the ouside wheel is also still trying to drive and it will essentially try and pull the car around the corner but the biggest mistake most make is applying waay too much power which you end up with both wheels spinning with lock on and broken traction. you still go straight ahead. To tie all this in with putting superlows on the rear to aid in handling. A front wheel drive car has the front wheels doing all the work. They have to turn and also supply the drive. So you need to have them on the ground at all times. It's pointless only having one wheel on the ground as what i mentioned above happens. So essentially you need to find a neutral balance between have the front suspension soft enough to allow both wheels to remain in contact with the road at all times and also firm enough to reduce minimise body roll/ braking weight transfer. A good matched spring/shock package or coilovers with correct dampener/rebound settings COMBINED with correct matching springs rates will help with this. Strut brace will aid in reducing tower flex which contributes to understeer as well. The rear of a front wheel drive car should basically be as firm as possible but compliant enough to still absorb bumps/dips. By tieing the back of the car down it stops it from unsettling the front mid corner when say hitting a dip/bump and pushing the front of the car around. A nice big heavier rear sway bar in conjunction with coilovers/spring shocks as i have mentioned will do the job. When I set up a front wheel drive car all I want the rear wheels to do is follow where ever the front wheels go. I don't want them doing their own thing or going in a different direction to the front at all. Think of it as towing a well balanced trailer. It will simply just follow the car's path through bumps/dips with the wheels on the trailer taking exactly the same path as those on the car. Not hitting a bump mid corner and stepping out trying to throw the car into over steer or even leaving the road surface alltogether and pushing the front causing understeer. Adding superlows to the rear to clarify the reasons is it simply stiffens the rear spring rate over the lows, allows the car to sit level giving the centre line of the car a neutral setting. It allows the suspension of each wheel to do it's job from thus neutral position without one already having a determined load on it before it starts. Like I said I have run with both lows and super lows in my car and the difference in handling is like chalk and cheese. My car was such an easy car to drive fast as it was totally predictable in it's behaviour on uneven surfaces and inputs from the driver were felt straight away and are precise and not delayed or vague. I have driven a lot of corolla's with a lot of different set ups suspension wise and my opinion is i think I've pretty much hit the nail on the head hence why many others have followed suit. A couple of quick points with info on springs. They don't sag like most think. It is the suspension bushes that cause the "sag" or drop in ride height. When installing springs you should always loosen off the bolts that hold the torsion beam to the body of the car a little(just loosen then nip back up a little) and go for a quick spirited drive. This allows the bushes to move as they aren't tight enough to allow no movement and index themselves into their new set postion after adding lowered springs. Then retighten bolts and away you go. Your suspension bushes will thank you for it and last a lot longer. Ensure the springs are seated correctly. I have now done 3 Corolla's which haven't had springs seated correctly in the spring hangers or had the top spring retainer plates installed correctly on the front struts. This allows spring movement and also incorrect tension on the springs themselves. Makes hideous noises and also cause unnecessary wear. End of my epic post. Longest one I have done on this forum yet. LOL Do i get 4 posts added to my post count for length??? :P

Sportivo cat back FTW. Has a nice note and certainly isn't loud but just nice on a 1ZZ. Plus cheap as too which will fit your budget.