Tony Prodigy

Good advice Robert. If you're gonna be into it for roughly 6-700, you may as well pay a little bit more for the more superior product. In this case, if I end up going for the Pilot Sport 4 it will be close to $900 I think fitted and wheel alignment for all four corners. When you rotate your tyres, do you rotate the spare wheel in or do you just swap the fronts to the back like me ? The reason I don't rotate the spare wheel in is because it has a different tyre. I don't want to mix tyres, both for the safety aspect and cosmetic aspect too. It would look dodgy having a Michelin on one side and a Bridgestone on the other lol... I just prefer to keep it as "the spare". It will get you home in an emergency situation and to tend to the puncture. I purchased a puncture repair kit too some time back and I've already had to use it once. That tyre is on the back and it's held extremely well for many months now. Saves what $50 for a puncture repair at the tyre place ? Either way, I don't have to drive there, sit and wait for what seems like an eternity and then get charged for the privilege. No thanks. I can just take my time and do it at home. It's very easy too. Damn. I should've done a report when I had the chance.. Oh well. Maybe next time

I should've asked this before, but which Bridgestone are you talking about Virgil ?

Been reading reviews about the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tyres and on the most part the consensus seems like they are a fantastic tyre. My biggest concern is road noise. It was claimed that the previous edition, the Pilot Sport 3, although an excellent performance tyre, did suffer from road noise which turned a lot of people off. It is now claimed that Michelin has heard the cry of the people and somehow performed some witchcraft on these new PS 4 tyres. It is claimed that these tyres are very grippy in wet and dry, provide better steering response, ride nicely over co**** asphalt and most of all, they perform quietly. There were also some who didn't like them for example, which also begs the question, the condition of their suspension, steering, wheel/tyre combo, make of car etc. There are way too many variables to just say, yes, this tyre is "the best" tyre, because it may be excellent on one car and not so on another. If, however, the overwhelming majority are saying the same thing, then it can't be a coincidence either. I'm placing the Michelin Pilot Sport at the top of my list so far. I'll try and read a few more reviews of a few other brands suggested here earlier.

They alternate between the Potenza/Turanza series with 4 for 3. I considered the RE003's, but they weren't on sale at the time and I was worried about the extra noise/reduced lifespan (did a lot of research 😄). I do wonder how it would've turned out with the Potenza's though 😞. Bridgestone has a 30-day return/exchange policy, but it'd be a bit of a PITA. Copied and pasted from Suspension Upgrade Thread. ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I suspect they are pushing the Potenza due to lazy sales perhaps. The Turanza'a seem to be flying off the shelves. My local Bridgestone Select has zero stock at the moment. The research continues though. Choosing the right tyre is difficult because all tyres are excellent when they're new right ? It's only when they have 10-20 kays on them you really see their true colours. I think that all tyres regardless of brand and make up will become noisier too as they harden up. Even the softer compound tyres. Tyres go through torture and it doesn't surprise me at all the level of degradation. You really want to avoid those directional tyres as opposed to the more symmetrical design, because they will groan a whole lot more when they start feathering those directional blocks, I know from experience. Horrid things they are.

Swing over to this thread Luke so we don't stray too far off topic for your suspension thread. I started a new tyre thread because it's an interesting topic and because I'm on the hunt now for a new set. Cheers mate

Unfortunately at this time Bridgestone don't have the 4 for 3 offering for the Serenity Plus where I am. I'm also sure this would be nationwide too. I suspect it's due to it's popularity. Why would they discount a hot seller ?? Time to gouge the customer even more... They have 4 for 3 for the Potenza Adrenalin RE003. Not sure if I want a tyre like that. I suspect it's a soft compound and will wear quickly. What do you reckon ??

Thanks Virgil. How's the front wear on the tyres been ?. Do you find the edges wearing quicker than the rest of it ? I'll take a look at the Dunlops too.

Haha yeah Ash. My OCD isn't just limited to detailing I knew how much importance is placed on good prep work and you really need to be organised when tackling this job that's for sure. It's not as simple as an engine oil change. Totally agree on the pan removal for the cleaning of the sediment. If it weren't for that crud on the magnets, you could virtually leave it as is including the original filter too. The filter I removed is virtually sediment free and I reckon if I soak it in some fresh tranny fluid I'd be surprised if the fluid changes colour. Also, now that I've done the magnets, It would be interesting to see how much sediment accumulates after 12 months or so using the Penrite LV. Regarding Dad's car, having done mine has given me extra confidence doing his for sure, but his car still only has around 60K on clock so it's probably a little premature at this stage Ash. What do you think ?? He drives his car smoothly too, so I'm not expecting anything worse than mine. I have my little kit put away now and it'll be ready for action some time in the future. I think the Toyota WS has done a good job considering my car has never been serviced till now. It's probably way overdue according to the specialists, but it goes to show that good driving habits can be rewarded along with good quality products. They go hand in hand mate.

Thank you Adam. I will wait and see what it looks like when it arrives and make a decision then. In the meantime I have stocked up with acdelco air filters so I'll be good in the air filter depts for several years it seems. Cheers

Hey Gents, I am currently exploring tyre options and was hoping to get some real world opinions from anyone based on their experiences with different brands. Things like: Quality, ride and comfort, handling, wet weather performance and value for money. Some of you may know, I'm currently on the Michelin Primacy LC and was thinking of trying something different. Here's the thing with tyres. I think they're all a much of a muchness and although some may have slightly better characteristics than others, generally all tyres when they're new will be nice and quiet and ride nicely. The true test is when you put some serious Kays on them and then revisit the original reviews some people make. My Primacy's seem to go to around 30k before needing replacing, especially the front tyres. The Aurion will always chew four fronts for every two rear and those who claim their tyres are lasting 50k and more, I'd hate to hear what they sound like, not to mention how they grip and handle too. Some have even reported dry rot after 4 years for these "long life" tyres. Not good.. You also have to make sure your tyre suppliers give you a fresh manufacture date batch rather than some that are old stock from two years ago, quietly pushing through to the unsuspecting customer. Knowledge is King in a dog eat dog world. If you see a super special for tyres, be aware that they may have an old date of manufacture and the shonks are trying to flog them off to the mug public.

Why would you say that ? I've had a look over my tyre service records and it looks like I've been back to Bob Jane at roughly 30k intervals. The very first set of Primacy LCs was a set of 4, then roughly 31k later I rotated the fronts to the back and purchased two new ones for the front. This then gave the whole set time to wear out together. Aurions tend to chew the fronts much quicker than the backs, so this is the strategy I had to employ with the Primacy LCs. So this current set is now due for replacement as it has been just over 30K since the last two fronts went on. This is my service history to date: New set of Primacy LCs purchased at 59447K replacing the original, can't even remember what they were. Then at 91107, two new fronts purchased and existing fronts moved to the back. Now at 123,050, which is 31.943K later, the whole set has reached end of life practically.

Haha, you're up early Luke. I thought I was the only one lol.. I have been on Michelin Primacy LCs since the start of my ownership and found them to be pretty good. Very quiet too. I think I may be persuaded to try something else as a change and see how they will compare. I'll definitely look into the Turanza.

You're too kind Robert, thanks for that. I must say that it was kind of fun and exciting, a bit fiddly, somewhat messy if not careful, and most of all, like you say, I can rest now knowing that it's done and the transmission is in tip top shape. I love this car and I want to preserve it as best I can. Thanks for your comment.

Thanks Adrian. Yes, you are correct. You add the extra 200ml after fluid level check is done and the pan bolt is torqued.

That's also interesting. I've been following the tyre recommendation of 240 KPA (34.8 psi). I must try this pressure you both speak of because I do notice that the steering is a little on the heavy side and a little clumsy. My tyres are close to end of life anyway, so i'll be researching new tyres now.

G'day Gents, I finally stopped procrastinating and did the auto transmission service today. This service consisted of 3 parts. Current Odometer reading 123,050 Klm. Original factory fill for transmission. 1. Pan drain and replacement of filter. 2. Full System Fluid flush. 3. Fluid Level Adjustment. Ok, so here we go: 1. PAN DRAIN AND REPLACEMENT OF FILTER Had to jack the car up on all fours to get the level required. This took some time but was able to get it nice and level. Being level gives more accuracy when doing the fluid level adjustment as you know, so I took my time here and got it pretty close. Be sure to not only check the longitudinal balance, but also the lateral balance too. You don't want the car to be dipping to any one side. Nice and level everywhere. Shop lifts make this so much easier as the car lifter is already installed on level ground, but for us who don't have that luxury, we must do it with a trolley jack and adjustable axle stands. I prefer the threaded adjustable axle stands for this purpose. If you don't have such stands, then you can just use some packing at the base of the stand as required to achieve the desired result. After this I proceeded to drain the pan before undoing all the pan bolts to further drain the residual fluid. The fluid was darkish but by no means bad like the brown sauce we're used to seeing. It still had a tinge of redness to it but more of a purple/red colour. Definitely due for replacement though. This was the total amount of fluid from pan drain. Approximately 2.6 Lt. That pesky bolt we've discussed was quite easy to remove as I had just the right tool for this. I was able to use the socket end of this Snap-On 10mm and was able to get just enough clearance to rotate it out. With the pan out, I was pleasantly surprised to see how clean the fluid actually looked for never having been serviced. The magnets did their job well and collected the fine material too. The valve body and innards were nice and clean, and you can still see the translucent nature of the old fluid clearly. This car has never been thrashed or driven harshly or towed with, so it was expected the fluid wouldn't be anything close to brown. The inside of the original filter also looked very clean. I was tempted to re use it too. It's a Denso filter and it looks to be of high quality. Gave the pan and magnets a thorough clean until shiny new and fitted new pan gasket and proceeded to install. Straw was screwed back into place during this time. After installing new filter and pan, torqued everything up and filled with the amount that was initially removed, which was 2.6 Lt plus an additional litre to commence the flushing procedure. 2. Full System Fluid flush. I searched out this method because I wanted to purge as much of the WS fluid in there and have mostly the new Penrite LV. It took several flushes to get the required result, which was clear red fluid. I removed the return line from the radiator and attached a clear hose to enable the dirty fluid to collect in the clear jug. I would start the car momentarily and watch the old fluid pump itself into the jug. When it got to around 1 Lt, I shut the engine off and repeated the process. I ended up doing six flushes, each time adding a litre or more in. To demonstrate the colour change from old fluid to new fluid, I dipped a piece of paper into each sample collected from each flush. By this stage I had used up nearly 3 containers of fluid. I also saved 200 ML for the final top up as per the update in the service bulletin. You thought I was going to forget this hey Ash ? LOL.. This was after the 6th flush and the results speak for themselves. Handy "Tom Thumb" fluid transfer bottle. These are a high quality item and will serve you well when you need to add fluid without making a mess. I purchased half a dozen of these a while back and I assign one of each to a specific fluid type so no cleaning required between use. Hook design dispensing tip allows the tip to remain in place whilst pumping the fluid through. Neat touch I thought. These below are the fluid samples taken at each flush. I used a different jug for each sample collected so no cross contamination of colours. This one has all six plus a "control" sample from new fluid straight out of the Penrite Container. You can clearly see the change after the fourth flush. I decided I'd keep going until I used up the contents of the 3rd container for best results. Happy with this I fitted the return line back to the radiator and proceed to do the final step. Fluid Adjustment. 3. Fluid Level Adjustment. So now it was time to commence the fluid level adjustment and after having topped up the transmission for the final time, I hooked up my Autel Maxysis and dialled into the transmission live data to monitor the transmission fluid temperature. The given target is somewhere between 40-45 degrees C. I opted for 42.5 degrees. I started the engine and waited for everything to warm up. During this time I cycled the fluid by going through the gears (with foot on the brake). I went from P to D back and fourth a few times to enable the fluid to cycle itself thoroughly. As soon as it hit 42.5 I went under and loosened off the drain bolt, and with engine running, collected the overflow until it slowed to a trickle as specified. Torqued up the drain bolt and then I added the extra 200ml as per the bulletin. Cleaned up the area, put tools away, re assembled the various bits on the car, removed off the axle stands, washed up and took it for a drive. I decided to go for a drive to the local garage, that way I could also check tyre pressures too.. The car drove magnificent. Gear changes still smooth, both on the up shifts and downshifts and nothing unusual. Just happy it's done now. I think I'll just do a pan drain on an annual basis from now on. Need new tyres soon.... Thank you for reading my report guys. Hope you all liked it.

It wasn't designed for the U660E obviously, a more generic application and more for those who do have a transmission dipstick. I used it to fill my Tom Thumb fluid transfer bottle. So much easier than trying to keep a funnel from tipping over.

That's the difference between Aurion and say a Camry and many others. They are uniquely nice in the comfort dept. That's interesting because it has been reported to avoid poly bushes because it makes the ride more harsh. Reading your comment kind of adds some vindication that poly bushes can have their benefit. The steering feeling lighter and less sloppy is a big bonus.

It is actually. It's like back to the future prices, October 26th 1985

Picked up 3 Penrite ATF LV this afternoon and was pleasantly surprised that Penrite have actually remodeled the container and added a bonus flexible pouring spout. I was a little chuffed by that. Not only do you get it for a great price, they even spoil you a little. Nice one Penrite.

Oh yeah, There goes my memory again 😄

I've made myself some crib notes of the steps and I've been re watching some video to refresh my memory. Everybody has a different way of doing it but we all get the same result in the end anyway. I'll report my service work when I'm done.

Haha, good for those engine flushes.

Just to be on the safe side I'm purchasing more ATF. Repco have 25% off the Penrite LV if anybody needs some. ($36.39 ea) The rest are asking $50 a pop. https://www.repco.com.au/en/search/?text=Penrite+ATF+LV+Automatic+Transmission+Fluid+4+Litre I'll get 3 more so my total count will be 20 lt. Enough for two flushes I reckon.

I'm hoping to do my transmission flush this Saturday. Psyching myself up by watching some videos to get my head around it again and to get quantity sorted. According to one source, a flush took around 10.5 quarts (almost 10 lt) so I'll need to buy more. The 8LT I have probably won't do it. Will prepare all the apparatus and tools this afternoon so I don't waste time dilly dallying around tomorrow.