Tony Prodigy

I have in the past purchased Ryco and discovered that Genuine Parts can be had for the same money or cheaper if you were willing to look. I spend a lot of time on Ebay and during the course of my research it brings me to find bargains just like the above mentioned. I paid $107 for a ten pack, with shipping and tax and for $10 a pop that more than half what the stealership asks. They ask around $25 - $28 each ! So would you pay $10 for a Genuine Part or a lesser non Genuine Part ? I feel that Genuine parts just work better and using the same oil is as cheap mixing them, which I don't like doing either. I stock up with Nulon and just keep using this.

As with anything, if there's a market that can be exploited, it most likely will be and counterfeit service items such as air filters, oil filters and the like are top of the tree items. I always like to think I'm buying a Genuine Toyota product when searching the internet sellers and if you don't know what to look for then you will most likely end up with a fake. There are several videos on youtube that can illustrate the finite detail to help us all become aware of the crooked practices of many crook companies. Things to look out for are poor print quality, mis spelled words, colour, packaging to name a few. The holographic sticker can also be faked but the fakes are sometimes just a silver foil. I received my recent order of 10 x oil filters from a seller in the U.S ( it was still cheaper buying from him than any dealer here) and I can honestly say I am pretty satisfied with my purchase. I have one Genuine Oil Filter left in my stock to compare to and it looks practically identical. Mind you, this particular batch was intended for the U.S. market and hence will have some print differences which include Lexus and French descriptions. Also, to my knowledge, only Genuine filters have "Toyota" and the part number printed inside one leaf of the filter media. I seriously doubt the fake manufacture would be bothered to include this. Imagine the logistics just to have this done ? Mine also came as a set of ten in the original Toyota shipping box, so this also gives me confidence they are genuine. Here are a few pics of mine received. The 2nd last picture has a very good warning on it too

No problem Big Mike. It's not really that big a job. It just looks that way.

A decent mechanic could do the whole job in around an hour. Then you'll have to get the front end re aligned.

Hi all. This is a Four part training seminar put together by Matt Moreman of Obsessed Garage. He attended this some time back and was granted permission to film it which was pretty nice of them too. Yvan Lacroix is a Legend of the detailing industry and has been in the game since the 70's where he worked for Dupont. The science and chemistry behind these products is amazing and I dare say game changing too. I hope you all find these videos as interesting as I did. Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4

I've been down with the flu over the last few days so I haven't been able to do much detailing. I did, however, come across another Fantastic video on the subject of rinseless / waterless wash products which I thought everyone would appreciate. Here's the latest video from The Forensic Detailing Channel where Jon puts several products to the test including ONR. He explains everything very well in my opinion.

Haha yeah, he does have that look. A Guru of a different kind lol.

Great news Robert. It can't be said often enough that the 2GR-FE needs regular oil changes to keep it from sludging, especially if the car does plenty of short trips. Using a high quality full synthetic oil is good medicine. These engines have tight tolerances, especially the VVTI mechanism, which needs clean, sludge free oil, to enable the advance/retard action of the cams. That mechanics advice about the timing chain being stretched was very poor. When oil specials come about they are usually posted here on the forum, so you can grab a bargain like we tend to do. All the best mate

I doubt anyone here has done such a thing Matt. My way of thinking on such a thing would be to look for a spot where the bit you mount it too, can be easily replaced. If such an install requires holes to be drilled and you ever need to remove it, you don't want unsightly holes in your dash. Just looking at the 40 series dash layout, I can see a spot just above the ashtray lid. I suspect that part is removable and if it's not too large, it could well be a good spot. Not sure if your car has the rear blind feature too. I have seen various types available, not sure which one you have though.

Haha, I was just looking at this just this afternoon before leaving work. There are nice tool specials on too which I've saved to cart..

It's great value at $59. The SCA ToolPRO one I purchased a little while ago was the same money but it's rated at 1600kg. I don't think there's much difference to be honest. Still excellent value nonetheless Ash. Did you also get a ToolPRO one too ?

Yes indeed Robert. I have to work this Saturday, so maybe Sunday. I haven't washed my Colorado for two weeks and although it's not that dirty, I will give it a hand wash with the ONR and see how it goes. Then try out these cool Glass cloths. In the beginning I would use a general microfibre cloth to do the glass, but then noticed the tiny bits of lint, not to mention the smearing when the sun shone over it. Next step was to get myself some proper glass cloths and whilst at SCA, I picked up a couple of different branded ones and none of them really performed well, despite the claims. They were ok to a point, I decided to use the worse cloth as the initial applicator/cleaner, then the better one for final wipe/buff. You must always wash them too after each use to keep them performing at their best. Once the tiny microfibres get loaded with matter they don't work as well.

Here's a couple of videos you may find interesting. The first video is a random guy and the second is brought to you by The Rag Company with their special guest Yvan Lacroix from Optimum who explain all the benefits of having this product in your wash kit.

I heard excellent reviews about these particular glass cloths made by The Rag Company, dubbed "Black Diamond" Managed to get a great deal on Amazon but you can also get them here. They finally arrived today and will look forward to trying these out and reporting back here among my other recent purchases. I have several "glass cloths" that I've been using but haven't been too happy with either. Too a degree, smearing seems to be the issue with my current crop. I suspect the quality and structure of the cloth may be to blame here. These Black Diamond cloths are supposed to be manufactured on the highest quality German Microfibre manufacturing machine so I expect them to perform as good too. Here they are:

I tend to agree with you too Adam. 98 octane can make you feel like you're doing something good for the engine and I've said it before that it is a waste of money because the Aurion's ECU cannot adjust the timing that high anyway to take full advantage of the premium fuel. My wife drives our Aurion mostly and she puts E10 (what it was designed for) and 91. Occasionally we will fill it with 95 when it's cheap enough, but mostly it's the regular stuff and I've had no ill effects from using either. I've had the fuel pump assembly out and the intake sock wasn't any worse than one would expect from normal operation. So I think regular fuel is fine.

Hey, nice one Big Mike. The 98 fuel would've been kind on the engine too. Cleans while you drive and it will burn more efficiently than the lower grade fuels. Maybe you should try 95 next time instead of 98 to compare.

Typically they aren't loud at all, well for the ones I know of. Maybe they do start to get a bit more ticky as they age perhaps ?? Mine is pretty quiet. I'll try and upload a video soon. Also, the audio in the videos amplifies the noise so it may make it sound worse than it actually is too.

I reckon that's where the root cause is. Perhaps the regulator is loose or something like that.

It wasn't designed for this actually. It's more or less something you can use during a maintenance wash, providing you have a sealant in place and the car has that week old layer of dust/dirt and the obligatory grains of bird poo 😄 I will always advocate for a pre soak, suds on car and pressure wash to get into all the nooks and crannies, but this stuff is the lesser of the two evils when it comes to a standard wash with the bonus of the added polymers. The proprietary formula actually releases the dirt particles so they don't remain suspended in the water. The won't say what it is but it's a certain kind of polymer technology that once you rinse the sponge/cloth in the bucket, the dirt particles will actually sink to the bottom of the bucket below the grit guard and remain there. You can even drop a capful in your regular wash bucket to enable this very action because normal car wash soap doesn't allow this. True true, and it's all about what's in the product and your chosen methods that helps mitigate the risk.

Hi Robert. Yes, Pan is a great guy and I trust his judgment. I've been trying to get some of this stuff for around 12 months and was able to get some through Amazon U.S. Optimum products have been highly rated for years and I've been hoping to try ONR for ages. Everyone who knows me knows I love to get the gear out and go to town on my cars, but some weekends I have no time for the whole production and just need the car looking clean as quickly and efficiently as possible. ONR is just the right product for that and no fear of inducing scratches either. The technology that's gone into this product makes it very unique. There's plenty of literature about Optimum products online if any is interested. I'll definitely report back my results when possible my friends. Cheers 👍

Hey Gents, I finally got my hands on this stuff. It's been pretty difficult to get due to it's huge popularity across the world. It is a product everybody should have if they love their cars. A very versatile product that not only is used as a water-less wash, but also as a clay lube and a detail spray. I can go on and on about this but if you have the time I'd recommend watching THIS and then THIS which will help explain everything about this amazing product.

To be honest Adam, I've never heard of switch issues on a 50 series Aurion. Even the 40 series until they issued the recall. Not sure of the quality of Hyundai switches compared to Toyota so it would be apples with oranges at this stage. Looking forward to seeing the outcome though. Cheers

Being an MY16 it's too new to have switch issues as you described, and I know the OP cares greatly for his cars to render any kind of abuse or foreign material entering the switch assembly. Anything is possible though, but I'm thinking there's something going on inside the door's window mechanism or the power window motor needs re-initializing.

Sounds like the jam protection function is activating sporadically. I've never had any issue with my 2012, but it could be possible either by way of a switch issue or the window isn't operating smoothly. I would open it up and check the slides/regulators for anything abnormal. The car is still pretty new so I cannot imagine the switch to be faulty , but it wouldn't hurt to bell it out with a multi meter. If the 40 series had switch issues, I'm sure they would've fixed this for the 50. I suspect you may have something going on in the slides. Check for debris of some kind. If it all checks out, I wonder if it needs re-initializing maybe ?? Have a read of this and this If you do go into it, can you get some pics for us please ? I've never had the door card off mine.

For ceriglass to work effectively, you'll need the rayon pad. If you have heavy ingrained etching, then it may not bring it back totally. Probably too far gone. It may need several passes in this case. I'll have to give mine a go and see too. Metho won't dissolve minerals as it's more like an alcohol, a cleaner if anything.