Tony Prodigy

I wonder if that strut bar will also fit the 50 series. Anyone have any idea ??

I used to be great at Maths, was in the advanced class (not bragging either 😀) and I remember all those crazy formulas we had to memorise. If I had to do it all now, I'd be a dismal failure. 33.33 degrees for the roof and some of the streets in my area were that and some. We rocketed around like crazy on our BMX bikes. Ahh, the good old days.. ( I Still have my childhood BMX, going to be fully restored too)

I'm glad you're happy with it Chris. There's nothing more satisfying knowing everything is solid and in good working order. Don't be too hard on yourself. We learn through trial and error. Best way sometimes and the lessons we learn end up saving us a lot of money. Take care

My 2 cents on this particular product Gents. I have used this and I found my brakes were starting to get grabby after around 12 months or so. I didn't bother to look into it too much until it was time to replace the front pads. Upon disassembly of the calipers, the ceramic lube had dried out and it was this that was causing the slides to "gum up" rendering them too grabby at low speeds. The left side inner pad was the most worn too because of this. I had also bought a box of this stuff and now I prefer to use moly grease or as you mentioned Ash, anti seize grease. Brake pads should last at least 2 or so years and having to do the slides more often than you need to is a pain. So I will not use the Bendix Ceramic Lube anymore for this reason.

I've never heard of brake caliper bracket bolts coming loose ever. It's possible those 17mm bracket bolts weren't tightened to spec which is around 80 lb.ft. The loctite helps but it's always good to use a torque wrench for such items so over tightening doesn't occur or stretching of the thread. Maybe it's a good idea to get some new bolts from Toyota and swap them out, then torque them up.

Ahh Pythagorean Theorem lol. Takes me back to high school Ash. I haven't heard words like Hypotenuse in over 30 years 😂

I should change the title of my thread to "K&N Filter- Yes or no ?" Looks like I messed up on this one. I was always under the impression these were decent filters. I had a good read of that info and it looks like it's a terrible bit of kit. Too late to cancel my order though. I'll probably just re sell it or just keep it as a monument of my stupidity lol. It looks like the AC Delco filter is a supreme item and after doing some searching I managed to find a supplier in the South of Sydney who actually has them. I have ordered 5 to keep in stock as I am now servicing my Dad's Aurion too. Thanks G

I would say no. The Touring was essentially an ATX with a few more options. The wheel size combo for the ATX and Touring are identical (216/60R16) which doesn't suggest anything special in the suspension dept. Kerb weight is also identical at 1590kg only for these two variants. I'm thinking your brothers car may just have better condition suspension, hence the better stability. Tyre degradation also plays a huge part with cabin noise, because as the tyres age they harden and they tend to amplify the road noise and if your suspension bushes and struts are bad this doesn't help much either. Aurions are very quiet normally without having to add any extra deadening. It's always nice to have it but it's not necessary. Fix the suspension and put new tyres and see how much nicer it will be.

I remember when these came out and it was a stunning vehicle back then. That silky smooth straight 6 too. What a car for the ages !

Toyota generally don't hide relays. All those, along with fuses will be housed in a compartment. What you describe is a loose connection somewhere. You will need to trace out that section of the wiring loom and check all the molex plugs under the dash and you could also check to see if you have continuity across your fuse too.

Here's a quick guide as to what certain colours are trying to tell you. They are: RED: This indicates a fault has been detected. You should take immediate action and not ignore red warning lights. Stop the vehicle and contact your Toyota dealership. AMBER: An amber light also indicates a potential fault. These are less of a priority to red indication lights, but you still shouldn’t ignore them! Contact your Toyota dealership when safe to do so. GREEN or BLUE: These act as notification light. This shows a feature is turned on and in operation. So you have nothing to worry about except to know that the ionizer function is on.

Have you checked any related fuses or relays ? You can also check the wiring harness section which governs the cruise. Could be a bad connection somewhere.

To be honest, any power gain claims is negligible and I really could care less about that. The 2GR-FE has plenty enough anyway. It was more for the filtration and the longevity that was what influenced my decision. So you think it's doesn't filter all that well ? I haven't read anywhere that this would or could be the case. Have you come across any info about this ?

Looks like you car has developed "crows feet " Washing and polishing can't protect what's under the clear coat. I seriously doubt factory paint would become like this if it was taken care of as you say you have, but, I will take an educated guess that your car has had some refinishing done, most likely in a workshop, where time is of the essence. They painted it quickly, then it was waxed to make it feel slick and smooth, BEFORE the clear coat has had enough time to gas off. When you wax a freshly painted car, you trap the gases and this will lead to clear coat failure such as Crows Feet over time. By virtue of it being out in the hot sun most days, the UV rays go to work to an already compromised and brittle surface. I am sad to say this, but the only way to fix it would be to have the affected areas repainted, most likely back to metal if it extends that far down.

I think I understand where he's coming from. I would definitely replace the filter on it's very first service because it will most likely have contamination picked up from it's very early life that the magnets may not have picked up. I would also think that after that initial service, with new filter, the following servicing would entail only regular fluid changes as the filter wouldn't have any further contamination given the transmission doesn't lunch itself. He's saying that changing the filter is more or less risky because you may snap a bolt removing it. I've never heard a bolt snap on any sump or filter, has anyone else ?? I'm sure they are torqued on correctly to avoid heavy leverage. Why would they need to be all that tight anyway ? I wonder if there is a torque spec for the filter bolts. I'm sure there is for the sump bolts. My car has over 120k on it now and still on it's original fill. I will most definitely be replacing the filter. I may even cut it open and inspect it out of curiosity.

I clearly heard the word "Garbage" I have to agree with him on that. I once had the misfortune of driving a courtesy car after my wife's 98 Corolla was written off and I think it was a ZRE182R( the start of that newer pointy nose shape, and it was the weirdest experience. It just felt like it was winding up an elastic band with that stupid whiny noise. I was turned off Corollas after this. This was when I was already looking to buy an Aurion and as you all know, the rest is history.

Yep. Money does talk. Depends how much you want to chase. I think an elaborate suspension set up for the street isn't really money well spent. If you were doing club racing, then that's a different story.

I always had K & N filters on my motorcycles and found they breath better than the standard filter and thought why not for the car as I haven't tried one before. In terms of the bikes, the filters that come with these were quite woeful. All they had was a sponge media sandwiched between two fine mesh screens. The K&N had more surface area due to it's pleated design. I also like the fact that it is re usable as it can be washed over and over again. It's of high quality construction too. I recently saw this video and it tweaked my interest a little more. I figured that each time I have to replace the air cleaner, its costing between $40 and $50 and the K&N is only a little more than this and is pretty much a lifetime item with a little maintenance.

Very nice Matt. Oil temp and pressure are two very important nuggets of information. The OCD in me would try and have the gauge bezels painted to match the rest of the fascia you have there so it blends in nicely. You can get paint colour matched these days via a scanner at your local paint shop. An airbrush job would be a perfect DIY. 50ml of paint would be plenty.

Yep. Do those regular oil changes, use high quality oil and I think we'll never hear of any timing chain issues here.

That's weird. Would it kill them to add the O-ring ?? I'd happily pay the 25 cents it would cost them, sheesh ! I'll check the O-ring in the oil filter kit too Ash. Thanks for that. I was going to do the flush via the supply and return lines. What's the best plan of attack, pan drain, replace filter, refit drain pan and then proceed to flush cycle then fluid level adjustment ?

I went out to the garage just now and dug out my wesil transmission service kits and I can see no O-ring on the filter neck. I'm assuming this is where the O-ring goes ? The kit comprises of the filter and gasket only.

I'm gonna go the whole hog and do the full flush Adrian, just like you did. It makes sense to do it if I'm planning to spend the whole day on it. I was thinking to do this first major flush, then do an annual pan drain going forward.

Ah yes OK. I remember watching a video where a guy had the parts ready to go and he couldn't place where the o-ring went and he assumed it was for the straw. That was my recollection. I'll have to check later should the filter kit come with the o-ring ? It's been a while and I can't remember. hahaha yes Ash. You know me too well lol. I have learned the hard way. I promise to be gentle on this one.

Can't wait Ash. Sounds like a whole lot of fun lol.. I'm also glad I never had to do the VVTI oil line too. What was Toyota thinking having a plastic tube handle hot, high pressure oil. Yikes.