Wixy

hey, how old was this mag? and was it an australian mag?

well there's an optional treasure to be had on the sxv20r 1997-2002 camrys. if you have a stock toyota twin decker headunit, your seatbeat light stays lit on the camry HUD (hehe), and will continue to do so only AFTER you've put your seatbelt on. WOW i thought that was pretti technologically advanced for a camry seeing the seatbelt had no electrical wires attached to it - though the circuitry was just attached to the metal bar of the seatbeat latch. after i removed the twin decker and place my own single decker unit, the light stopped working, something to do with the grounding and the wiring - diyed the installation. i also get zapped lots on certain roads when exiting my car. annoying.

why do you guys consider blue vision and not crystal vision? blue vision is not really an cosmetic "upgrade"...they're just another yellow light, though they are the highest adr approved upgrades. if you are looking to go blue vision, you might as well save some money and opt for the Narva Arctic Blue, which is the same temp,colour as the blue visions, but for a much lower price. i wouldnt be surprised if they projected better..... ive using arctic blue on my old camry atm, works wonders as the colour, temp is daylight white (which means yellow) i was using a pair of bj union 6300k thunder blue's (not legal), and they were mostly likely the best white light ive come across in halogens - kills the crystal vision and narva platinums. too bad no one sells these any more because the bulbs were 20% larger and could project far far away, they were great in the rain and in my opinion could cut through it (rain). though if u were driving behind me, the increased range often lead people to think i had my high beams on. now, i have no choice but to go crystal vision as i need white light in lots of country driving i do, & i cant find anyone in aust that sells the bj union brand. crystal vision is not adr approved, but either way, they are pathetic compared to the thunder blue's i used. Philips should know how to make better lights - they suck. they also give auto retailers too much margin to work with - if only u knew the cost of these things.... diamond vision looks too blue, and cost too much at 149 rrp. they project a slighter blue colour than white, but whats the point when u can just purchase a cheapo one to project a cheapo blue light? so if youre after a clean white light, crystal is your best bet for now at the cost of decreased wet visibility.

wow i thoroughly enjoyed reading this thread lol. not because of the illegal stupidness that happens on our roads, but just overall....enjoyed reading it with all the ifs, buts, thens, and hows.

mmm been a long long time i purchased 2 5L bottles of 5w50 mobil1, but yet to try as i havent been traveling. time and time again ive heard positive news from mobil1's ability to be used on high mileage cars, as time and time again people are able to just keep using them regardless of engine/vehicle age. though i do believe they are probably the best engine oil manufacturers around. hell i wouldnt be surprised if most oem vehicle manufacturer motor oils are mobil oils, some might be the super range of oils rather than mobil1. there are alot of blends of mobil1 so i guess i'll need to choose the right one, 0w40, 5w50, 5w30 & ESP, 15w50(now at Costco for a decent price), not alot of oil companies have tried and tested the million mile experiment either, http://www.mobil1.com.au/performance/miles.aspx

yea 550 on half a tank is really not quite impossible at all. if i can achieve 350km on 3/4full, then 550 on half is perfect. u guys must drive it 2 the red line most of the time?

well u'll have to make sure u reset the ecu b4 making assumptions on figures u get out of the same week u fill with vpower.

thats probably more because the 5SFE runs rich as f*ck from the factory. I only use BP ultimate in my celica. yea i dont know why that is whippy, still amazes me. yesterday filled up once again only to be regularly surprised by the fact that i was roughly doing 8.5L/100kms. i always fill it to the top each week. the trip to work isnt exactly economical either. i past through at exactly 21 traffic lights to get to work. the road from south eastern suburbs to southland victoria is a piece of work, and i still attain such figures. im thinking it might be a combo i am using for the car, ie, tyres, fuel, engine oil....but thats all i can think of that can materially affect the figures, aside from me punishing the engine just to prove i can reach 10L/100km with ultimate. air conditioning place little part in increase the consumption...soo....??? i use no additives either....

This has been answered pretty well in regards to load etc but also occasionally on potholed unmade roads or on some inclines where o/drive keeps popping on and off (or for that matter any other gear) it would be appropriate to change down to a lower gear to overcome that situation. The third gear in the auto is a direct drive and therefore I suggest should not cause any problems, check this out with a Toyota dealer who should be able to verify this if you wish to drive without o/drive for what ever reason. As to economy? Only one way to be sure with your driving style and that's do a check both ways. Not sure about your car but a falcon I used to own was six of one half a dozen of the other in and around town 60KPH areas. The Falcon without o/drive on would still lock up but I'm not sure about your car. HAPPY DAYS. i also turn it off when i want engine braking, rather than using the brake themselves. theres this hill i constantly go down to and from work, its not long, but long enough to wear your breaks quicker than usual if im driving the same rd to work every weekday, all year. speed limit is 60, all i need to do is turn O/D Off and cruise down the hill WITHOUT pressing the brakes, and it stays at 60 for the duration. perfect slope to do so, love it, keeps me less concentrated on the speedo and more on the rd for those couple of mins. it doesnt exactly save fuel, but hey, when u have a camry youre not worried about economy cuz it is economy. another means of using it is during traffic, if your constantly going from 0 to 60-75 and back to 0, the transmission works overtime going from 1st to 4th and back to 1st. and when your in 4th, and u want split second response from your throttle, being in 4th doesnt help that situation. if O/D is Off, more response can be gathered for overtaking delight. Cheerios

hey, speaking from a driver's perspective, so when you're in the driver's seat, do you have a spare rear left lights compartment? Cheers

Hi Hi, Long story short, got a 02 SXV20R Advantage, nothing special. Been using Vpower all its lifetime from 55,000kms. Using it not for the ****y "nitro, fully sick factor", but just peace of mind - though i do know that ron98 fuel on normal NA cars is not worth the extra 10-13cents, but somehow i still use it (makes me question my logic really) , but UNTIL NOW some pretty strange figures have popped up with the switched to BP Ulty from 91,000kms to present (102,650kms) Vpower Fuel figures were approx 9.6-10.1L/100km BP Ulty Fuel figures are currently 8.5-8.9ishL/100km not a huge drop, but a big one considering camry's are so heavy, only 2.2L 4cylinder, and the way i've been driving them is very sprinted (losing the patience factor in traffic), and 50% of the time i have 2 or more passengers. wheel size is 16'. Great example of yesterday at the pump: 507kms and filled up with 44.82L = 8.84L/100km Those 507kms were very aggressive driving, with 1st, 2nd and maybe 3rd screaming from 4-7rpm and constant kangaroos. Only did that because I wanted to really test my mileage figures. Definitely not complaining here, just sharing my use of BP Ulty with u guys, cuz coming from 10.1 with vpower to mid 8's is crazy for an engine thats punching above its weight. maybe bp's "get up to 44kms more per tank" is coming into effect? :lol: :lol: :lol:

of course its overpriced, very thing at dealers are. if that car isnt sold within 3mths, i will vouch some guy will attain a GREAT deal, as the last thing that dealer wants to do is to leave it hanging in the lot, out in the sun....degrading the car....slowly and steadily. i had a look on a sunday, very nice, but yes, cheapo front tyres must be replaced, a disgrace to sell that car with them i reckon, esp for that price. it does, however, have a GTP kit, so it will need to be sold for that little bit "extra", but not for the price it is currently. i do know someone with an 02 sxv20r advantage with only 20,000kms on it, and thats valued at 15-16-17 tops, so go figure as this has got 56k on it.

nice, i'll check that out.

n00b here, whats an ISC?

Hi guys, My family have been dominate Toyota drivers since we’ve been to Australia: Our first family car was: 89’ Toyota Camry SV21 Executive Our 2nd family car was: 96’ Toyota Camry SXV10 CSI My sister’s car was: 89’ Toyota Camry SV21 Executive (hand me down car from above) My sister’s 2nd car was: 02’ Toyota Corolla Ascent My first car was: 89’ Toyota Camry SV21 Executive (hand me down car from above) My 2nd car is: 02’ Toyota Camry SXV20R CSI Advantage I didn’t really need to type all that out to illustrate my point lol, but i thought it would be handy har har. Reoccurring Issue from 20years of Toyota driving: ROUGH IDLE when engaged in Drive gear when car ages or is above 100,000kms I have read this thread post sometime ago: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...&pid=156255 But thought i’d re-share this, rough idle is always consistent with all models of Toyota pre 2004. I don’t know post 2004 cars as i don’t know anyone that has travelled beyond 100,000kms. What do i mean by rough idle when stationary in Drive gear? • Dashboard shakes and vibrates • A low humming sound is apparent – the older the car gets, the deep and louder it gets • Steering wheel shakes and vibrates • The auto gear knob & seats tend to go with the flow of vibratoring Question is, why? Does it happen on all other FF drive cars? Particularly in my situation, I purchased my SXV20R when it was 55,000kms – it ran like air. It was purring with goodness, all the way up to 98,000kms. ONLY just RECENTLY within the last 2 weeks has the rough idle been apparent, thus reminding me of my old SV21. Because of this, it has really prompted me to ask the question, ‘If it just started to idle roughly like every other Toyota that is aging, something must be the cause of this evil, and can be replaced.’ I’ve asked a mechanic, my old man, and they give you the same generic answer – ‘it’s ageing, what do you expect?’ I fail to believe just because a car is ageing, doesn’t mean it cant idle smoothly. Searching the internet has given me responses about changing electrical wiring, spark plugs, change transmission fluid, engine mounting (a common expensive one that rarely solves the issue) blah blah blah, all have been assumptions but no hard evidence to the cause of this annoying Toyota symptom. Does anyone got any, any, answer? I shall bow down and serve you if you do.... ;)

mmm kinda 4got about this thread after i posted it. mobil 8000 cant caltex right? since they have more mobil 8000s that they did vortex98 back then....

and the amount of kms you get out of your tyres is also directly related to the weight of your car when traveling long distances. my sister's 04 corolla attains mileage of 90,000kms before she had to change to a new set of tyres (they we OE dunlop tyres too!). The reason was because she always traveled alone, did HEAPS of freeway speeds at long distances, did not drive excessively like a kangaroo. having said that in the ct she drove a tad like a maniac. on heavy sedans, its harder to attain high mileage on tyres as lugging 1500kgs of camry weight doesnt do well, its worse when all 4 seats are constantly occupied. cheerios~!

yea... well one more point i should add was that i purchased it back in october last year. but to my experience, no engine oil would 'expire' and then turn 'green' out of the blue! it is also dated oct 08 on the bottle as well. im not too sure if thats the date of packaging or if its the 'best before' date... either way...i'm gonna have to call shell customer service, as all 3 was unopened bottles are green. i actually thought it was coolant LOL.

Hi guys, this might be an uber blond question, but i purchased 3 bottles of shell helix 20w-50 mineral oil with an "extra" additive index as per outlined on the sticker packaging. i only purchased it cuz it was on special @ autobarn and it was cheap, and its for my mum camry which has done 200,000kms. point is, when i opened the bottle, and i looked inside, it was not normal new engine oil colour, but it was green. tell me this is normal right? cuz the last time i checked, new engine oil looked like a light tanned colour. this is all too bizarre to me. i feel like bring the bottles back.......

http://www.exxonmobil.com/Australia-Englis...s_20092705.aspx Soooooo.....how many of you use mobil fuel?

love your work there dhc09 the best chance to take a pic to sell a car is at dawn or dust, with the sun shining in2 the clouds. the worst time is to show it at midday or when the sun is shining right on2 the car, thats where all the swirls and scratches will appear. just thought i'd let everyone know :) re paste and liquid. i remember back in the old days (by that i mean late 90s) paste used to be more potent in terms of wax. liquid was more diluted, until technology came along and screwed it all up. now they are both the same, with exactly the same amounts of potent wax to protect your car. so then you ask, "why do they make both?" the answer is "tradition" - or in the case of the ridiculously expensive automotive wax industry, paste is the only form they produce it in because its easier in manufacturing processes (thus making EVEN MORE of a profit margin on that snake oil) people who used to use paste prefer paste - so its really product preference. i dont care if some uber dooper salesman tells u paste is always better, or if some auto nut says paste will give you better results - blah blah blah RUBBISH! they are exactly the same no questions asked. if u get a recommendation about paste being better, you should question their auto nut-ness. on that note though, the common to more expensive paste waxes maybe more difficult to work with (those that are harder on application and/or cost more than $5grand) because if not applied correctly, will swirl and cobweb all over the surface as you wax on and off. moral of the story = liquid/paste = same. moral of the story 2 = Beginners should use liquid then move to paste if they want to. moral of the story 3 = waxing in winter might be hard, cold, dull and unsatisfying seeing it rains all the time, but think about it after each time it rains, you are giving it a free car wash CUZ all the dirt just runs straight off - wala! sorry for the long post, Wilco

u know them bendix pads, my old man when to their china factory they he got a set for my camry for only $20AUD. how do i know for sure? cuz i had to pay him back. lol. they might not be the 'ultimate' but they HAVE to be more than or a heavy duty brake pad. Although it says on the packaging "ultimate stopping power, ultimate brake pads" for 20AUD, heck anything heavy duty would be worth it ey? cheap as chips from the chinese factories.

wow sorry for the last reply. no i havent mainly because i still have some meg's clay to go. however, its guaranteed that i'll be getting them as a meg's replacement, as from what i've heard, its the no1 meg's clay replacement according to some car crazy meguiar's fans in aust. the clay you get with meg's clay kit is only 70g. this is 200g so its worth it. HOWEVER i must say, most light/mild graded clay are the same - its only when you are after moderate to heavy clay is when brands really do matter.

its funny how we are told to change spark plugs every 90k when they can last up to min 150k and beyond. ive done 88k on my camry and cuz im due for a 90k major service, im supposed to replace them. i took them out and checked their condition - the bloody thing looks 70% good - approx lol. manufacturers these days..... in asia (esp m'sia) standard toyota and nissan servicing make their plug change at 150k, so really, their just attaining more turnover of stock here in aust.

dont worry, i feel your pain. the quote you recieved that was $70 was for a professional detailers bar that is made in the states. they are expensive and just not worth your money. meguiar's are bringing out a clay replacement package as outlined here http://www.meguiars.com.au/Whats_Coming_09.htm but for now you'll just have to source claybars from other companies. the following are links to places on the web in which you can source claybars alone. http://www.zas.com.au/browse.php?brand=-1&...;imageField.y=0 http://www.chemguys.com.au/Clay_Bar_Altern...y_block_kit.htm http://www.glowridaz.com.au/shop/index.php...ex&cPath=18 http://www.zainobros.com.au/prod18.htm www.carcareproducts.com.au cheers might i add this may be the most cost effective yet http://www.zas.com.au/product.php?pid=171 - $20 for x2 100g bars