Wixy

thanks for the post! just wondering though, where do i find the whiteline strut for 4cylinder? im guessing this here? http://www.whiteline.com.au/strut_chassis_bracing.php i knwo this is a tad out there, but when i was driving the gen5 sportivo, they have a strut bar from memory? just a stock one i know, and it was in black, but with only 15' the car just seemed more capable when i did corners at high speed. i wondered why that was so, pop the hoot, and wala, found the strut bar.

if u guys are actually serious about this check out for water pump issues. mine blew, along with it, the waterpump housing, and also damaged the timing belt. ive been traveling to melb>syd>bathurst>syd>bathurst>canberra>boom....>stuck in cowra(middle of no where)for 1week & $1100 repair bill>Bath>Melb Home. but so long as you stick to sealed rds, u are good, having said that, does not include sealed rds with lots of pot holes!

"german engineering" was always around the 20k/25k mark for service interval, and even though u may think u are saving lots by doing 20k services/pa, u really dont - they just charge you a craploads at each interval. Either way, i guess its about the design of the engine, rather than a need for a universal principle of 5k/10k service intervals for all engines. Ive seen a well looked after non oxidized fury red 89' 5series been driven to 350,000kms. Yes it may cost a bomb (literally) to service, esp at high intervals, but the engine still runs brilliantly - thus their so called "engineering" seems to work.

lol u changed your dp, couldnt stop laughing lol yea could be the wrong belt, but that would mean dayco would somehow be retarded enough to give end users the wrong belt type....and that could be ultimate retardation if they screwed it up with differences of greater margin. either way, the box states all technicals correctly, so i can only lay the blame game on dayco atm. i'll ask my mechanic how many 'incorrect', or rather, round teethed timing belts he's had to change for customers making complaints about these dodgy belt allocations.

im interested in a group buy, however my gen 4.5 camry has done 115k and ive been running M1 5w50 all this time...with zero leaks. just afraid that switching to 0w40 will cause typical leakage by the time i use to up to 150k. wot u guys think? and im serious about the gb, but 2b honest though, 5w50 is cheaper, usually x1 5L bottle is only $65, and when autochains have 20% off, it comes to $55AUD, so if you purchase 0w40 gold or 5w30 during 20% off...? EDIT: on 2nd lookies at the chart he provided, i purchased 5L of 5w-50 from repco during their 20% sale, and that equated to $11/L, so unless he can do something ridiculous like $9/L, im in, guess also depends on how much i buy.....

mmm but the whoop whoop dealer gave me the dayco box? has the proper engine numbers and bearing weights and sizes on it.... maybe some black market dodgy timing belt product like those dodgy genuine toyota rubber brakes and tissue paper oil filters? apparently its not the first time my mechanic has seen this type of quality on dayco products for gen 4 and 4.5 camrys

Yea...no, not joking. The Dayco kit that the dealer used for my Camry while it was stuck (literally in the middle of nowhere) was a poor quality timing belt kit. Yes, this is also the first I’ve heard of it. Full timing belt Dayco kits approved by manufacturers are of better quality as supposed to the kit that was used on my Camry. I was shown (in my mechanics garage) that while the timing belt was assembled properly, the belt grooves – grooves that catch the engine bearings/gears/whatever you want to call them – were of a slightly different shape compared to an existing Toyota approved Dayco belt in my hand. I might have exaggerated with the term ‘knocking’. It’s more of a distinct ‘ping-ing’ sound. My suspicions also lead me to believe that the timing belt was not assembled properly, and that it would ‘break’ due to the dodgy ‘ping-ing’ sounds it was making, but my mechanic has assured me that if the timing belt breaks and causes any engine damage, or just ‘breaks’ in general, he would compensate me for all expenses incurred, plus reimburse me for towage to his centre, plus any material inconvenience caused, full stop (I also know where he lives..). I was advice to change it in 50,000kms time, or when the belt gets too ‘loud’ for me to handle, but not immediately, as it would almost seem like a waste for me to do so...

just a little heads up, when changing timing belt, never use crappy after market ones, if getting after market, get oe quality. i had mine changed to a crappy off the shelf after market belt kit, and it sucks BIGTIME. sounds and performs poorly. only reason why i had to go that option was because i was stranded in the middle of no where and that was the only belt kit avalaible - car broke down lol. so there will be difference just between belt quality on the same engine type. i now have to change my in the next 50,000kms because though working properly up to 150,000kms, u wouldnt want to let it run past 50,000 as the knocking sounds the belt makes would seriously scare the pants off you.

if australia has the ability to sell hydrogen powered honda civics (or whatever) they sell in Terminator land (California), then this issue would be more than obsolete to me, and everyone else. i would trade in my car for a water running car anyday, even if the fuel (hydrogen) would cost the same as 98octane, and the car would cost about $5k more than a crappy battery powered hybrids. anyway, didnt mean to hijack thread. i find that bp is better with economy, and runs smoother. vpower runs with a "lighter" feel, whatever that means, as it tends to shoot to 6/7 rpms directly, where as bpu does it slower. not placebo, just what i noticed with the tacho needle and the response of it.

wow and cdrives usually cost a bomb. righto, i guess it cant be that bad, considering the size im after is made in australia. thx for heads up

maybe someone got some RE0001s if the re001s were at 340, i doubt the sidewalls would be of a softer kind, rather more of a harder kind, hence the ku31s are 360 because people have experienced some slight to moderate tramlining when used over 35,000kms. having said that, after 35,000kms and people still want to use it on a track must be some proof that grip levels are still good. EDIT: And just wondering duddettes, those who have used re001s, how do you find them in the wet? are you confident? or are they unreliable and dodgy in the wet when aged? just getting it for a jazz in 195/50/15, and because the missus does do alot of mileage per year, naturally a softer compound would be better than a harder - but ive heard unconfirmed reports of re001s being a tad dodgy when in the wet when aged (althrough treadlevels are still good).

Now thats interesting. What size do you use...but i doubt that would be the case. I have also personally seen it rated at 220, unless i was dreaming it (no...) Refer to links below: Australia Honda Malaysia Echo Random Now unless they have changed...mmmm...... *confused*

gee whiz, now that is a super dooper price for a tyre like that, well done on finding that bargain thats for sure! im on size 215.55.16 (primarily because 215.60.16 gives me more % difference than the 55s) and im currently on toyo teo plus's, considering the move to an re001 or ku31, however, im leaning more towards the ku31s as the treadwear rating is just higher and will last longer. my currently teo plus's have a treadwear of 280, and have done 35,000 to 40,000kms, they are still soft and are just so comfortable and brilliant in the wet. too bad i like to try different tyres, because i would so buy the toyo's again. the re001s have treadwear of 220 - now thats just too much of a soft compound to change from, cuz i need my tyres to last longer due to high mileage and spirited driving. the ku31s are 360 - however will be worried around the noise levels when i reach around 40,000kms. plus, the ku31s are considered by many as the best value for money tyre, that gives u the ability to use them daily, while being able to take them to track days. i know alot of people have to buy the re001s in bulk because although perform well, are too soft and will run out easily. correct me if im wrong though, just reports of 4 individuals.

wow..... do u know if the vehicle has been in an accident? particularly that electrical problem is an icing on the cake for the car being in a prior front on accident? either that, or its just extremely problematic and rare 02 sportivo. look in the engine, u can tell via paint spots if the engine bay has been reworked.

according to this thread, i posted up some pics of how my old man moded our sv21 to solve this issue. i still have the car to date and it still works (the mod that is) the problem with this is not actually a cold start issue, rather its an ignition/electrical contact problem within the ignition compartment. my sv21 is moded so that if the key ignition fails to fire the engine, u'll be able to start it via a simple flick switch - like a modern day on off switch u get in expensive new cars (or hyundais lol). the flick switch is connected to the battery +ve & -ve terminals, and another wire is connected to the engine compartment (vague i know...) - method is similar to jump starting another car - but without the other car. this has worked for 7 years with the same battery, which is under your normal battery maintenance schedules of replenishing water and charging.

sometimes u just want to shoot the ppl in the design teams. yes designing cars is one of the hardest to do, eventhough everyone seems to think otherwise, but when u have the experience and know how of designing a good car, bloody at least make the damn thing look respectable. the pathetic thing about the design of the gen 5s is that the stock rear wheels - 15' or 16' are around 1 to 1.5 inches shorter than the actual body, leaving a car looking too big for itself as the wheels are "inside" the chassis. its design practices like this that should deem the head designer shot, at least demoted for crying f-s sake. another gr8 example is the AU Falcon - boy that was one fugly grill....... *shoots designer* end rant!

so im guessing there's not negative mechanical impacts apart from looks, which im 200% cool with, because with stock gen 4 and 4.5 camrys, if u remove stock wheels and plant either 16' or 17' wheels, the front will always look RIDICULOUSLY 4WD style than the back. and thus, by lowering the front, it makes the vehicle look normal, level and somewhat eyecandyly eye catching. maybe i should take a pic to demonstrate what i mean ive found that with all gen 4 & 4.5 camrys, when the car is level - that is all 4s are the same height, lowered or not - the back is always lower than the front. im sure u can spot some camrys that have been reved up on this forum with the same result. either that, or my rear suspension is collapsing.......................lol............................ and yea private number, sorry, u'll just hold on to them for a while longer

hi guys, i dont want to start a new topic, so i guess i'll plant this here? Do u have to lower the rears if u want to lower the front? Cuz i JUST want to lower the front without lowering the rears, and wondering what negative impacts that will have (if any?). Thanks for your wealth of knowledge. Cheers

if u got spare $10k drive away no more to pay, then wala Silver CAmry Azura GTP with fake wood trim!!!! high kms though, far out....

they are cute cars, and i dont mind having them as a daily driver to run around, but they are not really a feasible alternative (if in the value for money market) because they just cost too much for what you get - fullstop. Car Sales Link Starting from 14,999 for a 1.4L <50,000kms, thats steep for a used car - but it is imported under the RAW Scheme so thats expected. And if you get this......, you'll be cleaning your rims for at lease 1 hour if you wont wash them weekly. A detailers nightmare!!!!!

Listen Mr Hidden Taco, no need for that kinda slang, lets get something straight here. My stock camry can just about pown all yall Aurion and rusted sports cars with my 4 door Super Saleen Camel Camry Saloon. Stock @ 97kw with NOS smokes yall anyday bro. Try to Hide your Taco now baby.

thanks for that unique, though one thing to point out. i was mildly dissatisfied with that answer and then i remembered my collegue!!! (who used to work for nissan production plant in malaysia, but is now with us working on food processing). i asked the same question to him - and a very very long long story short -> an assumption gone wrong. if you are trying to cut costs just so to increase efficiency - the only increase in efficiency that will occur in replacing plastic felt coated clips with uncoated plastic clips, is the increase in efficiency of processing warranty claim costs & the OEE of machines that replace a post-production dashboard. there may be an $0.XX amount saved per clip, which amounts to a sizable $XXX.XX of clips vehicle manufactured, however the cost saved in implementing the cheaper clips end up costing manufacturer X more than the amount saved. So it's really a loose loose situation. LOL. We spent about an hour drilling down into the likely causes of this issue, and somehow trying to prove our discussion was related to our work (which indirectly can be *winks*). its too bad i cant share the amount of information dumped into my very small head over the span on 1hour, but it was absolutely fasinating. All i will say is -> rental cars will have a higher % of...........i'll let you finish that one off yourselves. so there you have it, a not so straight forward but reliable answer for all to think about and consider when purchasing your next ride. but one might ask, do they still do it? (replace good clips with dodgy ones) - sorry cant answer that either. u'll just have to find out in the tangible world

lol your white car has got to be the most condom-ed white aurion around. 2 coats of GC+ and then another 2 of NXT2.0 i mean i like my car, but i dont love it like that - thats for sure! LOL - but also because when i detail other cars...makes me sad that i dont drive them LOL lame. interesting re super resin polish. ive always been curious about autoglym products - primarily because its the only product the royal family garage detailers use (the mechanics/detailers responsible for the queen's armada of vehicles used for transport). however, there just isnt enough education out there to get the know-how and usage of their products right. directions on the back of the bottle are one thing, having resources to share the secrets to getting the best out of the product is another. and i also find that they dont have their own detailing materials to use in conjunction with their products. they might have them in the UK, but in aust they dont. so u end up buying meguiar's application pads or other materials... there are also lack of products that can be used for serious paint defect removals, most of their products are 'apply with cloth and let the product work itself' kinda thing. so what to do? meguiar's. lol.

just wondering, why do newer make cars rattle more than older ones? i never got that? they must have been changing the way they assembled dashboards all together. i drove a nissan tiida the other day, it was rental - the dash was making music of its own it was driving me nuts, especially in cold conditions as the plastics have contracted.

gday, can you pm me too with the dealer address please? im super interested. sounds like a professional place for my friend's aurion that ran out of warranty. u dont get many independents set up with nice professional workshops. most of them look like old garages. super dooper. i'll put in a good word for u