CME-LFT

How did your photos come out on your huge tripod!! :P lol. the tripod was just to stabalize the camera at night so i didnt get motion blur. Its only a cheap camera.lol The photos came out alright, no where near the clarity as the proper ones. And btw, the photo that my car came out the best in with the blue reflection.......why did it have to be cut half way......*****. these people that think they can take photos :P jks Je-ez is a swear word????

Photos came out great. Great work!

Any chance of posting the pics up again??

Sorry if this sounds like a stupid question, but is this the real deal......the proper TRD intake that everyone else has bought? Including the bracket and everything else?

Anyone able to post these pics back up??

Hi mate, dont know if this will help or not but my mate had the exact same problem the other week after he installed an amp. Same issues, car would click but not always turn over........it would RANDOMLY start every now and again(slightly different issue). He turned off the alarm, changed the batt to a new one,changed the starter motor and same issues. Eventually he took it to an auto elec. and after 2 hrs found that the insulation on two wires going to the ecu actually burnt out and would randomly touch causing the issue..................no problems since. So maybe double and triple check that you havnt wired anything wrong or accidently burnt any other wiring without realising.

Hey guys, i ended up doing it the other day. The best way to do it i think with least chance of breaking anything is to first pop the draw/panel underneath out. now dont do what i did first and try to squeeze it together as you would when taking out the glove box (unless ive been doing the glove box wrong as well.lol). Anyway, pull the whole draw/panel UP until it pops off the clips and then drop the panel down until the tabs on each side of it line up with the precut holes and pull it through. (youll understand what i mean once you start to do it. Once thats done its easy, push ur hand up through the gap till you reach the pwr/mirror controls and feel for two clips on either side(there the same type of clip as what the coin holder clips in on, push them up/together and presto, the whole peice should pop out.

Thanks guys. Problem solved. My pinout 4 for the accessories is a red/blue coloured cable which is the right wire anyway. Everything works fine now, will take some shots when its set up right. Thinking of replacing the cig socket with the shift light,(daviboys idea) only problem is going to be a method of mounting it.

Could someone please help. Im in the middle of installing a shift light, i followed the guide and everything works EXCEPT the shift light wont turn off, its a shift light with a digital rev reading, the rev part wont turn off which means its still getting power even though the cars off. In the guide it says pinout 4 across for ignition/acc. but it also says cable is blue/green, well i did my shift lights acc. cable to the blue/green dashboard cable but thats on pinout 5. Pinout 4 on my car (prefacelift sportivo) is RED/BLUE. could that be the problem?????? Is there a diff install for prefacelift or does the ignition wire go to red/blue??

Maybe the new TRD aurion as a ute would look tough as its got a tougher stance, and its got plenty of ballz to back it up, only downfall is that its fwd..........wouldnt want to load up the tray too much.

Is the sportryder Pedder's own shock or is it based on other makes? Like whiteline is based from Koni. wouldnt have a clue, i think it is pedders though.

Spotted black sportivo, white rims around 2ish today at bankstown right in front of the police station. We both looked at each other so its just a matter if your on the forum or not.

What is the width of your wheel? Size 17x7, offset +42 is fine with 215/40/17 or 205/45/17. If the wheel size mentioned is your size, then the tyre size could be the problem, if not, the shock/spring is too soft resulting the wheel to submerge too much during compression (heavy braking for example). And how much lowering is Pedders Low anyway? Perhaps you can tell us at what point the wheel/tyre rubs? 17x7 inch tyre, shocks arnt stock, there pedders, got the setup done not long ago, maybe 2-3km not even. lowering i think is 35-40mm drop. ok, ive noticed that the scrubbing seems to be getting less and less the more i drive. the best i can explain is that the corners and bends that it used to scrub on seem to rub less and less each time i go through them.(even though i cant seem to see any tyre arch guard worn out or any worn out bits on the tyre itself) It seems to scrub when im taking a bend quickly and the road service is on a decline. And only seems to be the front right, not that i can really notice the left anyway. If the road is a flat surface with a tight corner its fine, so i assume its a combination of tyre height with width and it just pushes it over the limit and might be scraping the side corner of the rubber with gravity pushing it down as the road surface is declining in the first place. Btw, i got my sussy done at bridgestone and my mates the head mechanic and works there, he installed them (very pedantic guy), there pedders parts, but anyhow, he was saying that with the sportsryder shocks that the more you pin them, the more they stiffen up.

Am I the only one here with a Pedders Sportsryder setup?? (springs and shocks) I got their version of lows on the front and back and i do notice that the front seems to take alot of weight, it doesnt seem right compared to other lowered cars, it feels a bit nose heavy, esp round tight corners. Btw ive done front strut brace and upgraded rear sway bar. My only concern about changing the rears to pedders version of superlows is that the rear will now rub, as atm the front rub when taking hard corners. Btw im running 215/45/r17 on lenso apex 5, i think the offset is 42, do you think if i changed the rear springs to lower it would still rub in the front or now cause the rears to also rub? The only reason im running 45 profile is to keep the comfort and 215 for the traction. Ive taken the wheels off to see where the rubbing is but i cant tell as it doesnt look like anythings been scraped. So i cant tell whether its the profile or width that cause it to rub

Hi guys, 2004 corolla sportivo, on the right hand side where that little coin slot is, does anyone know how to pull that whole panel out. (the blank plate, coin slot, and power mirror controls) It seems like it should just pull out with little clips like the coin slot but im a little afraid i might break it, anyone taken it out before? Thanks

Hangs a sec, if putting superlows in the rear and lows in the front gives the car an even stance, then what happens with superlows all around? same situation only the front too low now?

lol, wouldnt recommend glue........too permanent for my liking. :(

They eyelids are very difficult to remove when attached with a generous amount of 3M tape. You dont have to paint the whole back, but ensure you get even coverage around the edges Ditto ^ I had to remove mine once..............(due to a poor spray attempt) and i had to use fishing line to get them off, took nearly 10 mins an eyelid.

Fair enough, i guess ill give ebay a try, it is off a power seller anyway (not the link, but others selling them are) so i guess it cant be too bad, and like hat31t said i can eventualy hook it up to the tacho if need be.

Yeh its just i dont really feel like taking my dash apart, id rather get a auto elect do it, that way if it stuff ups his work is under warranty.

Thanks guys, if it was cheaper than the price on ebay i would buy it and give it a go, but i guess ill just pass for now and go buy a proper shift light. Any idea on the price a auto elect. would charge for an install?

Hi guys, i wanted to get a shift light for my sportivo but didnt want to touch the wiring behind the dash so i was looking at those pivot shift lights, the ones that plug into your cigarette socket. Ive searched the forum but the only posts that seem to pop up are those that where selling them. Ebay item My question is, do they work on the corolla sportivos and seeing as they work off voltage change fluctuations (i assume) will having the system (such as subs) cause problems with the tacho as it causes headlight dimming and such at the moment. Thanks guys

Lol I take it that you went to westside and got your headers done, congrats, hopefully your as pleased with the outcome as I am. As the days have progressed since the porting you end up noticing more and more the improvements that it has done. The car feels so much easier and comfortable to drive. Alot less struggle.

I get paranoid bout the cops as the cars lowered, makes a bit of noise and overall does look done up, but they dont really even notice it (which is slightly depressing as ive tried to make it look sporty) but my mate with a STOCK (height,rims,windows all stock) s15 is pretty much cop bait. I guess its also a positive though.

Theres a guide on the forum on how to install the COROLLA door sills and it tells you the colour codes for the wires. Just tap into them with the neons and they should come on and off when you open and close your car doors. But that will only let them come on with the doors opening and closing.