DJKOR

You should get a little familiar with the Aurion boards. Here you will find something that would suit your scenario because the Gen 6 Camry shares the same head unit mounting as the Aurion: Quick Question about facia kit

Yeah, I'd definitely ask around with different insurance providers. You should not have to pay such a high amount when all you are adding is wheels and suspension. There would be no way I would consider paying something like $3200 a year for insurance on a car like that. That's a massive rort. The one thing I love about living where I do. I'm 22 (insurance started when I was 21 though) and I am paying $648 a year for comprehensive insurance with an agreed value of $32,500 (agreed or market value; whichever is higher), and up to $1000 worth of audio gear. This even includes rating one protection.

Edit: I re-read your question after posting my answer. I read it wrong the first time. Just disregard the answer below. Have you tried calling Monroe/KYB directly to see if they have any stock of them? If they do, you should easily be able to place an order for them through an automotive parts stockist. ----------- For the SV11, Monroe par numbers are as follows: Front: 25-0904 (sold as a pair) Rear: 16057 (left), 16056 (right) This was obtained from their online catalogue: MONROE 2009 - 2010 CATALOGUE KYB doesn't appear to have them listed on their site. Maybe you should give them a call to see if they do make them. KYB Shock Absorbers - Australia

I gave here a well deserved bath (since I drove her on a 8km dirt road about 10 times in the last week), then cleaned here interior out cause she was a tiny bit dirty inside. The brake squeak seems to be gone for now which means the grease is holding up well. Should hopefully last long enough for me to get back to Brisbane next week without it squealing down the highway. I'll order up a new bearing during the week. Then I parked her downstairs yet again and she probably wont be going anywhere for the next 5 days or so.

Yeah, no need to worry too much about it.... just try not to do it again. The Aurion has a multitude of sensors on it related to evaporative emissions. One such sensor monitors the pressure inside the petrol tank and controls a valve that vents it into the intake. By overfilling it, you could have sent some fuel down the charcoal canister and probably played a little bit of havok with the sensors. All is well once it is resolved though, just bear in mind that overfilling the tank and getting fuel into the charcoal canister can shorten its life. Apart from that, the thread that HT as lined to also talks more about it; ie. loose petrol cap or disconnected ventilation hose also causing the issue. The Check VSC System warning must just be there cause Toyota probably thought it would grab peoples' attention better. I had mine come up after a disconnect MAF sensor.

The maximum rim width is partially dependent on the offset that you choose. The combination of width and offset also is dependent of how much you plan to lower your car by. You really should have looked around first before creating a new thread. Welcome to the forums by the way. Not far down from this thread, there is one which has already been started and could have been asked there: Wheels for aurion Anyways, it's hard to specify a specific range because there are variables that can affect the outcome. Most people here choose to go for a maximum of 8.5 to 9 inch wide rim though with an offset between +40mm and +45mm. You can even manage to put 9.5 inch wide on the rear if you want that staggered look, but this requires a little bit of effort. When getting this, you should try to stick as close to the factory offset of +45mm. The following calculator helps to give you an idea if you want to calculate clearances: Wheel Offset Calculator But as mentioned, it all depends on how you set up your car. If you want wide wheels, you have to get the offset so that it doesn't stick out too far and scrub. But then again, if you have the facilities, you can make wide rims (like 9.5 inch at t he front and 10 inch in the rear) fit as well: -INDOMI- 06 Camry with 20x9.5 +16(F) & 20x10 +10®

I wouldn't bother mate. Either stick to your normal bulbs or get HID's.

Would be good if you can close on demand. Useful when going thru a narrow alley. Looks like with this, you'll need to turn your car off so that the side mirror closes and then push the car thru the alley .... :lol: :lol: :lol: I would say that with a simple little modification to the wiring, you can make it close on demand. Would be p** easy to do as well.

i dont think that set up was a low and super low mix but super lows all around... i went with that thus raised the question. hence, i cannot imagine what it would have been like if i did go with the lows front and SL back option which i was considering since the stock height was significantly higher at the back. Just to clarify things once again for the curious:

Good stuff mate. Really helps with the clean look you have going there.

Just bear in mind that if you plan on doing this, you somehow need to get the transponder chip out of the original key and into the casing on this one. The chip is sealed into the upper portion of the key and if you don't cut it right, you can damage it.

Thanks for the offer, but I'll still be in Canberra. Don't think I will be getting out of here until the end of this coming week. I can pretty much predict how they would look though. I would be more than certain they would go perfectly fine with my car.

Someone probably fell asleep at his station at the production plant

The type of lug nuts that you need Will are also dependent on the wheel type that you are using. Those shank-style wheel nuts are to only be used on wheels that are designed to take them. You can usually tell when you put the wheel onto the hub and can see quite a bit of space between the bolt hole on the wheel and the actual hub bolt itself. So depending on the aftermarket wheels you have, an acorn-style wheel nut may be more suited. You have genuine Toyota wheels though right? There is a good chance that these need the shank-style nuts. If you started off with steelies, then your stock lug nuts were most likely the acorn-style as well and therefore you would most likely need to pick up some shank-style nuts. Edit: Obvious information, but just in case.... these are the acorn-style... also referred to as tuner style:

Damn. That sucks mate. Photos of your actual damage would help give a better estimate but in general, if you are taking this up through insurance, I would factor in 1-2 weeks for them to get something like that all sorted. Depending on the insurer, how busy they are, and which repairer they send it to, this can possibly take longer. Just to get a rough idea, from the moment I dropped my car off for inspection, it took 15 days to have this amount of damage fixed:

Looking at the picture, that drop seems about right. As mentioned, the front guards are actually higher than the rear for the simple fact that your tires need to clear them when you make a turn. I did this quickly once before when this same question was raised. See how the side strips are parallel with the ground but you can see the difference in guard height:

You read my mind. I'm just running some figures through my head right now. This sounds quite possible. It's not that I can't afford it... it's just that I don't know if I want to let my money go so quickly. I would instantly say yes though if the US dollar was still around $0.60 (I get a daily allowance for work in USD and this makes a HUGE difference).

Hmmm. That seller also has some available for my Aurion. I am so tempted now to get a set.

Does it just have plain scuff plates at the rear (the ones that say nothing... not even Aurion), and the Sportivo scuff plates at the front? If so, that seems a bit dodgy. Sounds definitely like some production issue there.

Yeah, you are right in that it was mentioned before... but it was pretty well hidden. Anyways, here is my recommendation: A good place for the antenna is inside the dash behind the clock on top of one of the A/C vents. The no GPS error sounds like the unit isn't set up correctly. Try to enter the GPS setup within the program and make sure that COM port 2 is selected. This is where my antenna is mounted. You can see it on top of the left vent. No issues whatsoever:

^ Now for that I give you a big thumbs up.

Usually those levers that you keep pulling to raise the seat can also be pushed down in much the same way to lower it.

Enlarge the picture and I can see this:

Please excuse me while I.... um....

The 4 cylinder is not that big of a deal if you aren't always seeking a lot of power, but the move from a V6 to the I4 may be a bit of a noticeable change. The best way would be to see if you can test drive one to see how comfortable it feels. For $19,000 maximum, if you search well enough, you may even be able to find an Aurion. Auctions are also a good place to search.