DJKOR

From underneath. Remove the splash shields and you can access it all from there.

Kind of difficult to manage, but would be hell fun! I'm a bit on the crazy side though.

Universal understanding. I got the gist of what he meant.

Thursday nights we just meet up as per this thread: Brisbane Meetup (Every Thursday 9pm 8pm) Don't really go for a cruise that often. Maybe an exception can be made this week for obvious reasons.

For the sake of double checking, I stuck my finger into the filler neck and felt around. There was absolutely nowhere for a hinge to sit. Was completely smooth inside. Did feel something soft towards to top about an inch in ... I know what you're thinking; that's just sick. No joke though, the only thing in there was the ventilation hose in said position. Now I've got the smell of petrol on my fingers and cant wash it out.

I had that same panic before when it was once mentioned on the American forums. I swear I had one before, but that came down to the memory of my previous Camry. The Aurion doesn't in fact have a flap there to start with. Toyota Nation: Metal tab inside gas fill area After asking the question and having people check theirs, no one could come across the flap. I don't think it is there to begin with. It's just one of those things we are used to I guess.

Well functionally, the only difference is the suspension. The Sportivo's have stiffer springs and have different shock absorbers to suit. Apart from that, the other differences are pretty much cosmetic. Seats, steering wheel, dash cluster, 6 stacker stereo, external styling, etc.

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The things I would do to have lift on the Aurion. What source told you they had lift? On a side note, imagine an Aurion with lift. That would be like 250kW at the crank. Actually, when you look at the engine, it says 'Dual VVT-i'. Why? Because it has exactly that.

^ Wow. I completely missed when you got yourself a mesh grill. The silver looks quite nice. Gives it a machine look.

One thing I was just most amazed by on the day was how well my car handled. I had never felt so much g-force in my car ever before. Turn 1 and 2 were the weirdest feeling ever, where for once, my car didn't just slide off the road under the force. But yeah, one thing I really want to try and get more practice on (with some more track sessions) are those compound corners. I remember how he was taking about shifiting the apex later etc, but when on the track, you can get the idea of it, but learning the limits your car can withstand is the key. Unfortunately for me, I kept thinking about the others on the track that were right on my tail instead of focussing more though to my own driving. Instead of taking it easy and progressively stepping it up higher and higher each time, I was more concerned about the XR5 or the S14 etc that was approaching approaching behind me quicker and quicker. Being my first time Phil, I can't really comment fully on the Adrenalins. All I can say is they sure gripped for me, even the rears at turn 3 and 5 where I massively misjudged the speed I can take it and had all the weight shift to the front while making a tight turn. The back just slipped a little but kept me on the road. Under heavy cornering, it just wanted to keep sticking as well. From my perspective these tires were awesome, but that's with nothing to compare them with. It is so much fun that I would highly recommend it. Even if you don't get the best time or reach the expectations of others, you get to feel your car at a limit that you would never reach on the roads. You also learn little things about how the physics of your car can be involved in turns. It's a bit of a learning experience. You should consider yourself lucky that you are in Queensland and not too far from QR. No reason why you shouldn't try it.

Just a free revving video looking into the engine bay. Yours is cable throttle so you can rev it and video it all from the convenience of your engine bay. We'll figure out a fly-by video later.

Let's try my guessing skills while waiting for a 1ZZ owner to answer. I'd say they are 5 watt T10 bulbs. If your hands are small enough, you should be able to access them from behind the headlight in the engine bay.

The torsion bar for the boot lid on the Aurion is usually set at 2/3. You can bump this up one more notch as that's as far as it will go, but I have found that it won't get it to open all the way if you have a spoiler. Over time as well, this tension will be lost then you will be back at step one again. Only other way is to remove it and reset it's torsion. Not sure about that process though. I think you use a blow torch for that. I posted a DIY on the American forums, but will re-post here: Sorry to revive a kind of older thread, but while I was tidying up in my boot today, I thought I would see if I can make my boot pop up higher. Because I have a spoiler and a heavy number plate, my boot barely even pops up above the latch. I had a look to see if I could make any adjustments without buying anything extra, then I remembered that useless quote from njerald saying to adjust the torsion bars, but not stating how for everyone else. So this is what I did, just in case anyone wanted to try this first. Firstly unhook the torsion bars from the retainer in the centre of the boot area: Then fold back or remove the carpeting from the side of the boot and look for the hole where the torsion bar slots into: Then pull the torsion bar out and move it to a higher hole. Going higher increases the tension, going lower will reduce it: Repeat this on the other side, then place the torsion bars back into their retainer like in step one, and you should now find your boot lifting up with a little more strength. Depending on your case, this may improve it enough so that you don't need to get that rubber strap. I didn't want to go for the strap idea because of the way that it pulls on the linkages for the boot. Over time, I worry that it may affect the way the boot opens as the arms would get slightly bent under all the tension from the straps.

Yes it is possible, but firstly will only work with the remote boot release for the Toyota remote. Secondly, it will obviously disable the remote boot release. And thirdly, it is quite pointless because you need to be fairly close to the car that it doesn't justify the need for it. All it involves is disconnecting the +12v and ground connections from the boot release solenoid and connecting it to a relay instead. Then the N/O and common of the relay connect to the push button start switch and brake light switch. Also defeats the purpose of the convenience of the Smart Key in which you then have to take it out of your pocket to start the car.

Yeah, I actually found that on the laps that I aimed to exit the turn on the outside, example was of turn 6 there, my times were actually quicker. At first I was doing turn 6 along the inside of the track. It felt comfortable, but it didn't help my times. When I was taking the turn narrow as well, I had a fair bit of front wheel slip trying to maintain power which felt that I didn't have to lose. So I remembered what he told us in briefing and gave it a shot. Unfortunately though, like you described, I couldn't really get my bum to swing around to help slightly alter the direction I was heading as well. I'm sure that may have helped to keep the traction going on the front. I must say though, it was hard to constantly process everything at the same time. I guess I don't work so great with others close by on the track. The way they described to take the turn (using diagrams) was like as shown below: I did find that this method helped me more as it reduced my front wheel slip. As weird as it felt, the closer and closer I got to the outside edge of the track on exit, the more stable it felt. Was still hard to start building acceleration at the exit of the turn though. I really wish get some time when it is nearly dead there to be able to learn all this without worrying about others on the track.

Sorry for late reply, even though we discussed this last meet, I will post here for others. I didn't get the transmission cooler in on time for QR. Main reason for this is because I plan on changing my transmission fluid AFTER I go to the track. Here lies the problem. If I put in a cooler, I will need to add about 0.5-1.0 litres of transmission fluid after I connect everything up again. Now I have just heard that there are other suitable WS (World Standard) ATF alternatives out there and I plan to change my fluid with one of these instead. So this means if I put the cooler in before QR, I would have had to have purchased a 4 litre can of the Toyota stuff to top it off which is a bit of wasted money I don't want to spend. If figured, I'll go to the track with it as is and then afterwards I will change the fluid and add a cooler at the same time. It seems to have held up alright at the track, so at least it wasn't overly critical. As for the QFM pads, HPX pads have a standard price of $79 per axle for pad designs they have in stock. They can custom make pads if they don't already have them (if you provide the backing plate of your old pads) for a little bit extra. After going to the track, I have to say that these pads are quite good. I did run out of brakes in a couple of corners after some pretty hard braking, but I think this was more the brake fluid boiling than the pads giving up. While in my thread here, I may as well mention again that I took my car to QR yesterday. It was quite a fun day and I wrote up some stuff in the thread over here. My fastest time of the day was 1:08.6. And just for fun, here is a photo on the track: And a quick video of random parts: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

And just for you Dave (courtesy of Timofytit from Boostcruising): So rude, LOL:

Looking good Evan. How's your traction? And I think you need to clean up your engine bay :P Oh well. I expect to see you next Thursday at least.

Sweet pic Dave. Thanks for posting. She seems to fit in alright on the track. Hehehe, for Phil's car in that photo. My camera wasn't quite high speed enough: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

Videos or GTFO Should head to the Spit today so I can check it out yo.

I can't exactly remember, would need to have a look at Ash or David's TRD again, but I think the top part of the TRD spoiler mounts through the lip spoiler portion. This would make the lip look out of place on it's own. That's from my memory anyways. It may not be like that. Regardless, I don't think this would be a cheap part.

Good effort for taking to time to take photos of that for others. We do get the occasional Avalon owner here, but I reckon this would be of more use to the Camry guys. You've posted it there though, so it looks like you've got it covered.

I personally haven't payed attention to the spoilers on those, but by the way you describe it, I would say it uses LED's for the brake light like a majority of spoilers out there. In that case, you either change out the entire LED strip, or you can take the most cost efficient approach and de-solder the busted ones and put some new ones in. Provided you know how to solder.

How many k's are on the car? One thing you should try is to give it some very light throttle when you press the start button. See if that makes it turn over any quicker. Just one of those things I would try doing to help narrow it down.