DJKOR

It's a Celica... it's in its nature.

Who are you to define what a car enthusiast should be interested in and what they would classify as "better offerings". I don't go up to a wine connoisseur and have a go at them simply because they dislike a particular wine that I enjoy. Learn to respect other people's tastes. No matter how you word it, your original post was aimed at nearly everyone here and was basically calling them all ricers and asking them to act mature because you were being an a**ehole who thinks your standards are better than everyone elses. Yeah... because we all need a fast, high performance vehicle because we are all mad street racers.

Major services are every 15,000km on the Aurion. The minor services are every 7,500km and are typically for cars that are driven in harsher environments or used more than others. As for what gets done with each service, please refer to your service logbook as this varies according to your service.

It could indeed be an issue with the installation itself, or that the surrounding components (bushes, etc) have not settled in yet, but without a stock measurement, how do you know where the fault lies in your current issue. I'm not saying it would, but you can't rule out the possibility all-together.

Today I changed my cabin filter. I am quite overdue for this one, but I've been pretty lazy. Now that summer is pretty much here and I have been caught on a couple of occasions with less than 60% airflow when on full fan speed, I was starting to get a little fed up. It's amazing what these things pick up:

Here's a question. Before you go ahead and start putting the blame on the Pedders springs.... did you take all round measurements on your stock suspension?

They don't have the distinct LED look, just like the facelift Aurion tail light, but rest assured that they are indeed LED's. As for the MARS ones listed on eBay, they appear to be of the same build as the Aurion tail lights, but I can't really comment on fitment.

Vinyl apparently: DAR1US' Matte Black Aurion

Getting defensive with you car eh? It's just a Celica :P

:o hes kidding dude, he used to own one, Thanks Captain Obvious.

Looking mint Darius. Good to see you still have the Aurion. I remember your posts and vids back when I was a noob on the forums here.

Will be there too.

FYI, Toyota use ground switching for most of their electrics. This means that the positive terminal of the boot light will always have constant battery voltage present. So get yourself a multimeter and with no load on the boot light circuit (ie. unplug your LED's etc) and with your boot latch locked, measure the resistance between the negative terminal of the boot light socket and ground. You can use the boot latch as a ground point, otherwise an amplifier body ground will do. If you measure any form of resistance. Ideally it should be an infinite reading. It won't take much contact with ground somewhere to mess things around. If you are seeing a few megaohms between the negative terminal and ground, then this is all it takes to get the LED's to give a dim glow. Obviously the less the resistance, the brighter your LED's are going to light up. If you are getting an infinite reading, I would then be leaving your LED's the way they are and try to disconnect the connection to the light socket. Then use your multimeter to test between the negative terminal of the LED's to ground. Same deal as above. If you get any reading there that isn't infinite, I would make sure your LED's are completely isolated from the body of the car. If you get an infinite reading there, then I would be sussing out your connection to the lamp socket itself. Those pictures... despite being massively sized, do not really give me a clear idea of their construction. Those LED's don't appear to be the ones that are completely sealed in silicon. They do look like there is the potential for part of it to ground itself with the body of the car. If you ask me, I'd reckon the issue lies in that. This is why I use and recommend LED strips that are completely sealed when fixing them to metal surfaces of the car, or to where they may potentially contact metal surfaces. The ones I use look like this:

A latching relay will hold the contact open or closed even when power is removed. It is pointless in your current situation. Just to clear up any other thoughts you may have, you could just use a normal relay and have the N/O contacts across the momentary switch and then connect the relay coil up to switched ACC power. This would essentially be like holding the button down as long as the car is on. I do not recommend this however as it: 1) Doesn't give you the ability to easily press the button again to turn it off and, 2) The idea of 'holding' the button down continuously does not sound so great.

if you can find such a thing, then yes. I've never heard of a relay like that myself, but I've never actually looked to be honest.

So if you have it connected normally and you turn the car on, the throttle controller does not turn on? Then you press the button, it turns on? What happens if you press the button again; does it change modes or turns off? If it is simply an on off toggle, you essentially need to create a switching circuit that will briefly close a contact once the car starts and then release. This contact would essentially join to the momentary switch. Building the circuit is probably the hardest part. You can make either an electronic switching circuit, or a mechanical switching circuit. There are plans out there for either option if you do a Google search.

Well if you don't wan't "knock-offs" and prefer genuine, then you have just answered the question as to where to obtain them from.

Why not just disconnect the existing lamp holder and plug your other lights into that? Thin blade terminals plug conveniently into the connector for the lamp holder.

If you drive your car continuously for short trips (like a few km or so each day) or don't travel much in the year, I'd recommend following the 7,500km service interval. Under normal conditions though, it may be considered a little excessive, depending on how you think.

So I'm guessing V6 Performance couldn't help you out huh? They aren't a crap charger. Actually, they are quite a good charger. It's how they are used which is what matters. The exact same design supercharger is used by the Colbalt SS guys and with a pulley of similar size, they run up to 20PSI. Just because it only gives 6-7PSI on our engine, doesn't automatically make it bad. It's just sized to utilise the maximum efficiency for the given use. At the end of the day, these cars weren't designed to be touched, so having the HTV-1320 run at the proper level is actually a good idea.

And you notice that when you click on the link, they only have details for the TRD Hilux? Tried giving them a call to see what they have?

And who exactly is selling such a pulley kit and quoting such a gain for a TRD Aurion?

You will be fine Steve. So long as you make sure to keep up with the regular changes (10,000km is a good number for you), then there should be no issues.

Toe is. Camber... not exactly.