DJKOR

You have kind of made things a little difficult for yourself here if you want to remove that badge. One way or another, if you need the badge removed, just prepare yourself to fix the paint around and behind it. There is a possibility that this may get damaged. Heat would be your only option really and even still, it's not going to be easy. You may just be better off leaving it on and using touch-up paint to correct what you need to unless you are willing to accept the damage that may occur to your paint underneath during removal.

So if it's simply a case of 'why not', then why haven't you done so yet? Or others for that matter. What may be a justifiable cost for you, does not necessarily mean it is for me. I don't race this car every day, so my money is better spent elsewhere. This is why Steven has been researching ways around this which won't exactly break the bank. $600 seems like a reasonable amount which will give the extra edge for street and semi-track use. $1600 unfortunately falls out of budget for some people (myself included). That said, it's good to know such upgrades do exist for those that are willing to spend the money.

To say I love the looks of those is understatement. Those look mean. Unfortunately I don't think I could justify the $1,000-$1,700 for them. They must be made of money if they are doing those just for the looks.

Notice he said "when I am not moving"? Anyways, I have the same on my Aurion. It's not really somthing I would be concerned about though unless it was quite strong. After all, the transmission is technically engaged with the driveshaft when you are sitting in D or R.

Yeah. The red Brembo's are covers, despite your 'tap test'. The others look legit though and do look nice... even if they may be copies of the real brand. But like Steven said, this is an informative thread, so please provide information because the photos are useless otherwise. And please please please; in future resize your photos first, otherwise don't upload them in full unless via a link. I have fixed that problem this time around. Next time I will remove them cause it can create issues for other members. This nearly crashed my browser in this instance.

Depends how much noise you want. Removing the resonator can lead to a bit of drone inside the car while you are cruising along so leaving it in, or changing it to a different one is not a bad idea. You can leave it in at first if you want and then if you decide you want it to make more noise, remove it later on.

The stock exhaust is 2.5 inch from the cat to the rear where it splits to the two mufflers after which it is 2.25 inch. Don't expect any power gains from an aftermarket exhaust though unless you plan on changing the headers to something else.

^ Hmmmm. Those look somewhat nice.

I LOL'ed: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUJxkSB409Y

You could do that, but for a good bang for your buck mod considering you plan on taking yours to the track (would only cost a couple to a few hundred more than getting DBA4000's for the fronts), you can follow Steve's findings: Brake Options - Standard Aurion +45mm Someone else will have to chime in on that one. I reckon SuperDave might know. From what I've heard, you can't exactly have track approved and road legal at the same time, therefore meaning if you have it road legal, in the end you will only be able to enter road legal categories. I'm not sure, I'm just saying what I think I heard.

Spotted at about 10:55pm heading outbound on Milton Road, a white Aurion Sportivo with the plates "52OMY". Had some nice gunmetal 19's (well rolling anyways from what I could see) and appeared to have a vinyl carbon fibre bonnet. Looked alright in the low light conditions.

At least 36 PSI. You don't want low profile tires lower than that as this can lead to blisters forming on the sidewall. Ideally around 38 PSI is a good number.

I'll be there tonight of course. Nebo doesn't look promising with the way the weather is heading.

The KLF - Justified And Ancient

Why would you bother? You may as well change the springs while you are at it. Typically a shock absorber is suited to a particular spring in terms of giving optimal results. Mixing and matching like what you have said does not necessarily translate to better performance. On that topic of things, you can clearly see one difference between the TRD shocks and the Sportivo shocks. I'm sure it would be different yet again with the AT-X shocks: Shock absorber. You can see the TRD one on the left is slightly shorter:

So I'm guessing in this case he hasn't even passed the Sylvester Stallone test.

The way I see it.... if they don't like it, they can put their windows up. Same here. Firstly because I'm conditioned to love the heat and secondly, I hate going from cold to hot.

Well don't expect to get proper replies if you ever ask a question then because to be honest, no one is going to bother trying to help you if you can't simply type English.

First question that needs to be asked... was your engine on when you checked the settings?

1) I suggest you call at least 3 dealerships that are local to you and having them provide you with a quote. Pricing isn't exactly standardised and can vary, so providing you with a figure may not be so accurate. 2) Refer to the service logbook for your car. That will show you what gets replaced and inspected with each service. A fuel filter is not changed in the 75,000km service by the way.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldTjXFlWtkM

As much as it's fun to feed the troll, I am losing faith in the current generation to the point that I feel there could be a possibility that this person is not actually trolling and may not actually see the real-life situation here. I still reckon old mate who put diesel in his Yaris may actually have just been that stupid. Edit: Thread re-opened. This IS the Club Lounge anyways.

LOL. I'd like to see that one go through. Seriously I would not be paying any more than $2k for a car like that... and that's only if the car was truly immaculate and I was in a generous mood. Good luck if you are expecting more than that. It's only going to keep losing value while you wait for a price that you aren't going to get.