DJKOR

No need for us to change our stop lights to LED's, hehehe. I will eventually, when I can be bothered, change my indicators to LED's then swap my reverse lights for 5W luxeons so the functionality is maintained. Then my car will have all LED's inside and out, with the exception of low/high beam and fog.

I use ImageShack (now) and find that it's pretty good. The other alternative that I use is FreeImageHosting.net.

Do you have a dipstick for checking the transmission oil level? If not, chances are that it is a sealed system which in this case, would be filled with Toyota WS (world standard) ATF. Apparently this fluid is meant to last for around 160,000 kms before requiring a change.

The LED's make such a big difference in looks don't they? Gives it that little bit more style. White LED's... what would we do without them?

I remember reading about it. I'm sure it was BONDIE. Did a quick search through the forum, and fancy that: My New Ride, ATX WITH 20 INCH Maybe he would be the person to ask if you wanted to see how they are.

Nice mod. I think I will follow suit. Lol. On a serious note however, a member over at the Toyota Nation forum painted his cover to match the body colour of his Camry. Actually looks quite nice. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253413

Yeah, planning ahead seems to help. As for the lag being universal, it all comes down to the design of the gearbox. I guess the Aurion is designed for smoothness. My old Camry, when you put your foot down, it dropped gears in an instant. It wasn't smooth at all, but it sure responded to your input.

Yep get that, been complaining is some other thread, takes like 1-2sec before I get a response, shocking if you need to do a snap overtake and rather dangerous if you plan to overtake when the other lane is going faster... the car behind might just run into you.. Yeah, that's my main complain about the delay. Such occasion is on the highway after merging and the left lane is slow and there is a break in the right so you start to change lanes then, put your foot down and the delay is shocking. If you're unlucky, you will put too much throttle and activate stability control... even more dangerous. I just predict ahead wherever possible and put my foot down in advance. Just as dangerous but seems to do the job.

For your viewing pleasure, I spent 4 hours to upload this for everyone. You know, at the time I posted the reference to the "Camry Stuff - Gen6 Manuals", it was up and running. As a matter of fact, I was just able to visit it then and download a manual, making all that time I spent uploading it that little bit less worthwhile. Anyways, enough said. 2GR-FE_Charging 2GR-FE_Cooling 2GR-FE_Emission_Control 2GR-FE_Engine_Control_System 2GR-FE_Engine_Mechanical 2GR-FE_Exhaust 2GR-FE_Fuel 2GR-FE_Ignition 2GR-FE_Intake 2GR-FE_Lubrication 2GR-FE_Starting 07_Collision 07_NCF Electrical_Wiring_Diagram_Manual Air_Conditioning Audio_Visual Axle Brake Brake_Control CAN_Communication Cruise_Control Door_Lock Drive_Shaft Engine_Hood_Door Engine_Immobiliser Exterior Garage_Door_Opener Horn Instrument_Panel Interior Introduction Lighting Maintenance Meter Mirror Navigation Parking_Brake Preparation Seat Seat_Belt Service_Specifications Sliding_Roof SRS Steering_Column Suspension Theft_Deterrent Tire_and_Wheels U660E_Automatic_Transaxle Windshield_Windowglass Wiper_and_Washer index_files --> Extract and place in same folder as service manuals.

you're not knocking the SV21 are you? That car was the bomb (lol; no jokes about it being a bomb). I drove one for 4 years before I got my Aurion. It had been in the family since 1991 and was an ex-government car as well. Never skipped a beat. I still miss it in a way.

You guys do realise that the "Aurion" service manuals that were uploaded here that were on the original page were actually the 2007 Toyota Camry Service manuals... which are exactly the same as the ones you can obtain from Camry Stuff - Gen6 Manuals. That's why I said you can obtain it from that web page (which as of the moment of this posting is having issues, but the link has been in this thread all the way since May 28). Why re-upload it if it is already on the internet for download? I can guarantee you 100% that it is exactly the same manual that was uploaded and posted here because I downloaded all 300MB of it.

Do you mean the motorised fold in mirrors? Now those are nice. I would have no use for it, but just having the feature would be nice. I would wire it up so it folds in when I lock the doors with the remote. Less things for someone to bump when walking by your car I guess.

I should have been more specific. I define city driving as driving in built up areas where the speed limit is less than 60km/h and involves quite a few traffic lights. This is usually to and from work around the Brisbane city area. My GPS has logged an average speed of 31km/h. Also, when driving on the highway I do at least 10km/h above... I mean below the speed limit; I'll let you guess. As well, if I'm at the front at a red light, nearly 100% precent of the time I will accelerate sharply. I'm definitely not light on the accelerator.

I thought I would post some updated figures. My last calculation shown at "City driving only economy" showed that I was getting 10.4l/100km. 4375km later, I have done another average calculation. So far on an average over 8385km, my Aurion has given me a fuel economy of 10.8l/100km. That is still with 70% city driving (50% bumper to bumper, 20% no traffic). It is a bit higher than my last calculation, but I have always like to put my foot down (which is just so hard not to do in this car) so I'm not disappointed at all.

Well... the mirrors on the Aurion (like most cars) is made from perspex. If you were willing, you could mark out the arrows and drill holes for the LED's. Should you take good care, you could probably get the job done for under $10 per mirror.

I've seen these as a stock item on a car before. I think it was first seen on a Ford Expedition as a stock item (though made by Muth Mirror Systems). You can get an them from Muth Mirror Systems as an aftermarket accessory. The only drawback I would imagine by getting that is that you will lose the excellent visibility that the stock convex mirror has.

I think for the fact of the matter, that rev-limiter issue should never have occurred regardless. Even if another person drives the car, the problem described shouldn't be a side effect of it. Regardless of the situation, should the gear shift be in auto mode, it should automatically shift up in gear prior to the rev-limiter kicking in, or at worst, change immediately after one activation of the rev-limiter.

A good place for the antenna is inside the dash behind the clock on top of one of the A/C vents. The no GPS error sounds like the unit isn't set up correctly. Try to enter the GPS setup within the program and make sure that COM port 2 is selected. This is where my antenna is mounted. You can see it on top of the left vent. No issues whatsoever:

If anyone was wanting a further understanding of that, you can read about it over at Wikipedia. It makes a lot of sense when you think about it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gps#Navigation_signals Also, seems like the positioning data from the satellite is valid for up to 4 hours, so a cold boot would be when you leave it off for around that long. It is actually quite an interesting read... well at least to me and my technical mind anyways.

Using iGO? I've found it actually picks up the signal almost immediately, but it takes a bit for the software to remember that you'd rather be following where you're going instead of the last place you turned it on at. Hitting the show my position icon (along the bottom towards the right) drops it back to following your position. bok I use iGO8 as well. My observation was that when I park my car in the garage at night and start it in the morning, it shows some locate about 500m away from where it was turned off. Then when I reverse out of the garage, if I leave the car stationary, it can any time between 20 seconds to a full minute to get a strong enough positioning signal and show where I am on the map (and at a driving level accuracy that can trace your route). If I start driving after turning it on cold, it takes a bit longer than a minute to position me properly. Usually when I come to a stop though if it's having trouble positioning, it will acquire the signal pretty quick. As I mentioned though, if it has only been an hour or two since I turned the unit off, it will acquire all satellites in an instant. It all comes down to what satellites are above you and your relative position to them. Every time you connect to a different satellite, it downloads a little bit of data to be able to position you correctly. If those satellites are still there in view next time you turn on, you can acquire a position pretty quickly. If the next time you turn it on however, you have a whole bunch of different satellites in view and the other ones you were 'connected' to before are out of view, the GPS receiver needs to acquire data from the different satellites which causes the delay.

On a warm boot such as when you just turn the unit off or back on, or when you have it off for a short period of time such as a couple/few hours, my unit will acquire the satellites close to immediately. On a cold boot however such as when you leave it overnight, it can take around one minute to acquire a sufficient signal, even longer if you start driving before hand. The music is meant to cut out when you put the car into reverse. BUT, I have noticed a slight glitch that when the unit just turns on (such as when you start the car) then put it into reverse BEFORE the music CD/DVD loads, the music will play through the rear speakers and then when you switch out of reverse, the front becomes active. It is just a glitch in the programming.

- Best fuel for our Aurion(s)

Hey SqueezeMe. Is 'BLCKLABEL' what you got for your personalised plates that you were talking about? That's cool that you guys can have up to 9 characters on your plates.

The best way to remove anything around that area is to remove the entire trim first. Open the centre console and you will be able to lift up the entire centre trim that extends to the A/C controls. If you look, you can see how it all joins. You can do this all with just your hands. Look at the following photo to get an idea. Click to enlarge: Also, as much as it looks like it, that small area under the A/C controls isn't made for a single DIN unit. There is no mounting points for such a unit.

I think the complaint was that it does not change gears quick enough. As in it reaches redline, rev-limiter kicks in and RPM drops. Once RPM drops, car redlines again, and this repeats a few times before the gear changes. Doesn't sound healthy to me.