the_random_hero

Honestly dewds, be VERY BLOODY CAREFUL when playing around with airbags - I've seen them deploy and break somebody's wrist before.

It will be written on a plate in the engine bay...

Alright, any of you guys still want to come just send me a message or call me on 0430290810 and I'll give you some details. Looking like there's going to be 20-25 people there, mostly car enthusiasts like yourselves :P

Take it slow, first try to remove power windows switch box, etc. Next, should be a few screws down the bottom of the door card and possibly one in the section with the door handle. After you think you've got them all, start prying it from rear bottom corner and pop the clips out slowly, if it stops coming off then you've missed a screw.

Yes, at a loss of it elsewhere. Don't even think about remapping ignition timing without some sort of aftermarket ECU... I suppose if anybody wanted to get a bit fancy, I can see a set of quads from a SR20 hanging off the front of the head quite nicely...

Yep... and I can't wait to see a total solar eclipse in Australia. You'd be surprised! It's a Toyota box, same family as some turbo diesel boxes from overseas and is apparently near-on indestructible. Some of the SW20 guys are looking into fitting them to their cars, 400rwhp+ 3SGTE's, turbo'd 1MZ's, etc.

On a 'normal' 1.8L, yes - 2.5" would be pressing on too big. Just look at the cam specs in lift on the old 2ZZ and you'll see why it needs a 2.5" system.

So have you tried ZZE123 rotors? ST202 or ST185 calipers with ZZE123 rotors is the route I was planning on going.

I'd rather see the 6 speed out of a Lotus Evora in there....

1MZ's are nice and over-engineered like most modern Toyota engines, will handle boost quite well. Just make sure tuning is spot on, wouldn't push past 10psi though - especially not with a Rootes blower.

You are indeed correct, that's taken care of already though. What are ZZE123 calipers like in terms of piston size?

So you've just decided to go for a thicker rotor instead of bigger diameter? If they bolt up, then this probably means I can fit ZZE123 calipers AND rotors onto my AW11 (assuming ST205 has the same mounting holes as ST202 calipers).

i have had the same problem, droning in that rev range, got straight through redback mufflers,replaced centre res with 10 inch hot dog and 8 inch hotdog before the split at the back, ok when its cold but give it some stick up hills and warm the mufflers up its unbearable, and theres nearly no note at all 2500 and above,. going to try another glass packed oval muffler instead of the hotog up front, will let you know how that goes. Always something I've been interested in doing to an Aurion, I'd love to see a LARGE centre muffler with just two hotdogs at the back. I think half the issue is there's so much pipe with nothing to stop some crazy reverb happening.

Is there an aftermarket ECU that can control your gearbox? I can't see a piggyback cutting it if you're serious about boosting a 2GR. We just did (apparently) Aus' first boosted old-school V6 Camry (3VZ-FE). Honestly, the worst thing about it was it was a tight fit - manifolds/piping is easy, it's just toight loike a toiger.

a few factors: another 1zz owner told me that with CAI and Sportivo Exhaust, it made roughly 88-92kw atw or something like that. Also, it should 'theoretically' be putting out MORE power then a stock 1zz. Another factor is the dyno sheet - it was done by the speed the car is travelling, instead of what revs/min the car is doing... I'm not sure if this matters though... Air/Fuel ratios are stable, once on boost, its running just slightly rich... boost pressure builds up to 6psi and peaks at 8psi ummm... not much more i can say, other then its going down the 1/4 mile Evo If it's any consolation, my Paseo makes about 80fwhp :P My AW11 is aiming for about 3x that, that's gotta count for something though, right? Mad props for actually going through with this, don't give a damn about what anybody else says. This was YOUR project, you've finished it and you have good results. Mission accomplished!

It is 100% real man just come and have a look!! Multi national companies dont mispell the name of the Model of their own car that the product is supposed to be suited to.... I had Japlish on genuine TRD bits I got from Japland ;)

Effective - yes. Overkill - totally. Why spend $700 on a muffler when you could spend less than a hundred and get the sound right from the beginning? TRH where are you getting these prices from???? get an Xforce Varex, twin tip oval muffler DELIVERED for $395. IMO.. Varex was the best exhaust mod i'd done on My sportivo... the flexibility was just fantatstic. I thought that's what they retailed for? Never really bothered looking into them that much, waste of money IMO :P

Effective - yes. Overkill - totally. Why spend $700 on a muffler when you could spend less than a hundred and get the sound right from the beginning?

Because you Mexicanies suck :P (I'm actually a reformed Mexicani). You don't -have- to have a Facebook account, I can just message you the info like I did for Phil.

Brands don't really mean a lot, size/style is where it's at. A physically large 2.5" straight-through muffler is all you really need, 2.25" if you want quieter.

I think some Toyota head honcho's need to get in contact with Yamaha again. Can I get a 2GR-GE in this bizatch?

Why would you go to a as-far-as-I'm-aware-almost-bankrupt 'mechanics' (I use that term very, VERY lightly) instead of your regular old exhaust shop?

Hey guys, I'm having a bit of a cocktail night in the city/Valley on the 3rd of October. I think I've already invited some of you guys through Facebook, if anybody else wants to come just find me on there (Drew Spriggs), say you're from TOCAU and I'll send the event invitation through that has all the information. Just so you know, there is a dress code and best dressed gets some free drinks. Suits/jackets/etc are all on the cards, dress as fancy as you like (you will still need to pass appropriate dress codes at various clubs/bars though).

Vacuum leak. Idles a bit funny?

Look at paying $4k+ for a moderate condition shell (ie. rust), $10k plus for a minter. They are very rare as they were only made for a year or so, and as such price is huge as the demand is big. TA22's can be had for considerably cheaper, but expect a lot of rust if it's original and a lot more dollars if it's been fixed.