mick0082

Narrandera hey? Thats not far from my home town, Leeton. You turn off the Hume at the Shell servo you went to though. Now that i'm in Canberra i'm up and down that road quite abit. Used to stop at that Shell servo quite abit but now I fill up in Wagga for Ultimate now that they stock it. I'm averaging round 600km a tank with mixed driving btw.

I honestly dont know if the Pedders are rebadged Kings so what i'm about to say may not be relevant anymore. However, not so long ago Pedders were seen as selling some of the 'firmest' springs on the market here in Oz, this would support the reason why they might be kinder on your shocks than Kings. I personally have kings myself and honestly they have not changed my ride quality anywhere near as much as I thought. Best way to describe them is firmer with a little less absobtion. On the plus side, the car corners flatter and is more willing to change direction. I'm happy with them!

Its good to see that some members of that forum have enough common sense to accept the facts. I'm not going to go an about the conparisions because we i'm sure we all know where we stand with the Pulsars.

Not saying theres anything wrong with Kumho, no arguements there! Just saying that in this particular market segment they would definately be better than Nankang but maybe not quite as good as Falkens. I knew a couple of people that had issues with some Ecsta 712's wearing unevenly and these instances were on well maintained vehicles (regularly rotated, aligned, correct camber etc.)

I really dont think that Falkens are the next rung up the ladder from Nankangs. In my opinion the Falkens would be a few rungs up the ladder. Dont forget you have Kuhmo and other Korean/Taiwanese/Chinese brands before you get into the Japanese stuff!

The tweeters could be wired to the 6" speakers with a capacitor in between. Seen that done in alot of the "premium" variants of lower end cars. Stereo components dont share a very large slice of the manufacturers build budget unfortunately.

As E-Gene said there should be a part available to fit, perhaps you have the wrong one. When the correct part simply isnt available, many installers will drill holes in the existing stereo bracket to make it fit. This can be seen as dodgy but is sometimes the only way to get a proper fit.

See my garage..... I'm on king lows!

tints, springs, shocks, rims, exhaust, headers, strut brace, CAI and in that order heeh i got a ascent sport too and that is how im gonna work thru my list Anyone insured with NRMA? know what the max drop they will allow? is it still 1.25inch ?? ← Yeah NRMA are still allowing 1.25 inch lowering. Thats what i've got on my policy.

As a regular reader of "Motor" magazine I read an article about this time last year all about different fuels tested by the guys at that mag. They tested the fuels in the real world (city and highway consumption) and also tested in the lab by petroleum experts. They came to the conclusion that BP ultimate was the cleanest fuel by quite a margin. It also faired quite well in the economy stakes as well as being the one of the closest to being true 98 RON fuel. Ultimate is refined to 98RON level while alot of its competitors have additives blended to get them to a claimed 98RON level. So while Ultimate might not offer the best power increase (mobil synergy is for me) it is the best fuel for your car on the market at the moment.

Congrats on your purchase! GO white! We're a minority!

Lift holds the valves open at full throttle, thats where the extra consumption comes into it! BP Ultimate here - 600km a tank. I also use Vortex 98 if theres no BP servo's around.

Lovin the movie clip, Its a reminder of how sweet the 2ZZ-GE sounds. Sounded like you hit the limiter at the top of 1st and possibly just at the top of 2nd. Cleaning that up abit will make you slightly faster. You stayed well within the powerband though! Because of that i'll be trying to find myself a nice quiet stretch of road over the wkd!

Yeah I got added by him. He gets the e-mail addresses out of your member profile on this forum. Thats if youve added your msn address into your details of course. He doesnt speak to me that much, I always tell him he's too expensive ;) , I gave it to him about the eyebrows! :P

Welcome Densuki! And hello to all the other Sydney members. I'm in Canberra so we will have to organise a cruise or something.

The 2ZZ-GE engine is a highly strung "precision" engine! Precision engines such as these will have their pistons and other internals fitting more 'snugly' (for need of a better word). As a result you need a thinner oil to penetrate the gaps and protect. Many people think that a thicker oil will offer better protection but its not always the case. I use Castrol Formula R 5w-30w and it doesnt use a drop, ever! We run Castrol Magnatec in my girlfriends 1ZZ-FE (conveniently our dealership uses it) and it doesnt use a drop either. I do oil and filter changes on each every 5000km and as long as I use a genuine filter there is no issue.

It would be nice if they start bringing it in from Japan. The Japanese are well reknowned for producing better fit and finish all round. Not to say that the SA produced vehicles arent any good. Its all done from a cost perspective I guess...

His eyelids are way over priced anyways....lol :D

Sounds about right, My last cars major (60,000km) service cost around $700. This is included replacement all filters and fluids, new plugs as well as supply (not fit) of new brake pads. If you're updating your vehicles regularly the trick is to sell them with around 35,000km (or in some cases 55,000km) on the clock in order to dodge these costs. If your keeping the car long term, expect to fork out this sort of money. Its a pity that alot of that cash goes towards labour.

Try and get them to replace the other rear shock as well. That way you'll have two jap shocks in the rear end. I guess its highly unlikely they'll replace the other shock if its ok though. Also, I'd insist that they fully rub back and respray every panel that they have damaged/scratched, if they just patch it up it could look dodgy! You took them a car in good condition so you should be given back a car in good condition. They stuffed up so they should have to pay in full for it. Thats the way I see it...

If your able, get back in there in person as soon as you can. Take the car of course and let them know your not kidding. They need to compensate! i'd be kicking up such a stink it wouldnt be funny.

$10 off for a group buy??? I know these things arent cheap and the guy has to make a profit but seriously thats over the top. They should be easily under $100 raw. Imagine what it costs the company to make once they are in production....both the manufacturer an reseller would be making a nice cut from those prices!

$180??? Screw that, by the time you have them painted the cost will be well over $200, probably closer to $250. To me thats money better put towards worthwhile mods (CAI, CES etc) .

Regular cleaning an conditioning should help stop the wear process. Although I cant be sure as i havent had mine that long. Being weary of how you enter/exit the car can also help. Trying not to drag your rear end over the bolster is a good idea!

$15 isn't too bad, it would be nice if they throw in some clear for that price! I think i'll just get mine mixed by a spray painter too.