boxerboy

Take it for a gentle drive, allowing the engine to rev and wain and the box to work up and down. No need to hurry. Get the engine and the oil good and warm. Then give it some herbs to higher rpm, on the on ramp to the freeway. Freeway speeds will not concern a new motor. High rpm on a cold new motor might. Remember, on the assembly line the engine gets high rpm. Read here. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm You will hear conflicting opinion. Everyone has their own belief. My experience, fwiw, is via contrasting methods used by friends . One took the slow careful method. His oil consumption was high until 20000ks. The other has not used a drop, using the mototuneusa technique. Read, listen, make your own choice.

Worn intermediate shaft leading to low speed clunk. $400 job multiple cars done under warranty.

The bloke that said or wrote that was famously belted by Hells Angels when he was younger, and shot himself in the head a couple of years back...just before his body was thoroughly used up! It was Hunter S Thompson.

PaulMT, they did mine between 09:30am-3:30 pm. DJKOR, mine was warranty but the invoice that came with the job was just over $400...similar to your quote.

My wife reports normal operation today. When it wasn't working, it wouldn't beep when reverse was selected or when approaching an obstruction at any speed. When it's working it normally beeps when reverse is selected.

So, I don't have a switch in the normal spot. The noise doesn't beep when reverse is chosen, nor does it beep when I get close to a rear obstacle. Presuming mine should be on at all times, does anyone have any clue to this problem? I'll take it to the dealer tomorrow. edit:. Strange thing...today when reverse was selected it beeped, and then beeped as it should when it needed to.

It's not there. 3 blanks spots. I guess the sensors were installed post factory?

Where is this switch? Do all models have them? The sensors are an optional extra on the ATX. Mine is the Toyota system, but I don't know if it was fitted during the build or later?

2007 Aurion. atx. The sensors have lost their noise. What's the likely problem? Anything quick and easy to check, otherwise it's off to the dealer. Cheers

Well... depending on how sensitive your hands/feet are, you can actually feel the ABS actuator doing its quick test in some cases. Maybe I'm weird, but I can feel when mine does that test as I drive out of my street. On a side note, I've had multiple occasions when reversing out of my garage, I've accelerated a little then applied the brakes to show down at the top. In that process, I've had the ABS do it's self test with my foot on the brake. It ends up making the weirdest sound/feeling. Kind of like a spring being flicked under tension. More importantly, it's a knock that didn't pre exist, that has developed over a short period. I'm guessing the abs thing should always be there?

is that the knock when you just start to move you car ? i think i got the same problem .. It's a knock you can feel, as opposed to a noise you can hear.

No steering shake on braking noticed. The knock was "very" minor but noticeable nonetheless. I didn't check the steering wheel freeplay. The car is fine, works well, except for this small knock. it's sorted now though.

No further info I'm afraid. I didn't get to see the part, but if the spline wears, causing a knock, it can only continue to wear at a faster rate as the interface becomes more sloppy. The knock is only slight...my wife didn't notice it at all. I rang about it and they immediately mentioned the intermediate shaft and said they'd order the bits. I've therefore presumed that this is a known issue.

I had mine replaced under warranty. It lists as a $400+ job otherwise. Symptoms: very slight knock noticed at very low speeds, when moving off, or turning slowly. The fellow at the parts/service counter said it was due to the manufacturing process, the splines weren't right when made. First I've heard of it.

I was thinking abs too.. Do some heavy braking in a quiet place and see if you can repeat it. The other thing to do is to take careful notice when you move from stopped. You may feel a slight knock at very slow speeds, with the brake gently applied. That circumstance might be something up front, eg an intermediate shaft needs replacing.

I've also given up washing mine, though the inside gets a fair care regime...vacuuming, wiping over etc. Time, water restrictions, swirls and dust mean an external wash is an infrequent occurrence. Maybe after the spring threat of rain...

I have the standard wheels. Currently I have Dunlop SE sport 33E, 215/65 95v rated. They've been fine for the suburban and occasional country family car use this vehicle gets. Does anyone have further recommendations for standard tyre settings? There's lots in here for bigger wheels, but not so much for stock. Cheers

LOL... look on the bright side. You didn't break a nail! :o ;) :D

My 30K Aurion has a small knock occasionally, noticed at slow speeds with turning and braking. The dealer has an intermediate shaft on order to sort the problem. Warranty.

Keep the trailers wheel bearings in good greasy order and the tyres pumped up...it all helps.

with slang like that I think he should be banned for 2 weeks to teach him some manners specially when threatening like the above statement "I kill U" there is diffrence between Disagreeing on arguement point and threatening. henryaowang I suggest that you don't make furthur threats like that or else you end up being charged for threatening. just remember your isp logged. AUR30N Ban him for longer...maybe altogether.

Don't be in a hurry. Wait until the end of financial year sales....but do spend your time looking and haggling and making yourself known to the dealers.

i SAW ON THE TELLY TONIGHT THAT ...oops... new car sales compared to last year were down by close to 25%. Haggle hard, get as many extras as you can squeeze out of them, don't accept pittance for a trade. Colour? Blue looks good, as does black, but with water restrictions they're difficult to maintain as a shiney new vehicle. Swirls will eat at you when you see them. Do they still offer the $120 service plan for the warranty period?

Red book says more...but who's to say they're right? * Private Price Guide $35,700 - $38,900 * Trade In Price Guide $30,000 - $33,200 * Average Km 15,000 - 25,000 * Price When New (RRP) $49,990

I bought my ATX 2007 model with 15K kilometres and at 12 months age with the $120 15K service plan for the balance of the warranty. They wanted $29k, I paid $24K. To buy it new in '07 would have cost $37K (with the extras) I traded 10 yo Acclaim which was realistically a $3K liability to me with the mechanical repairs it had coming. Lets say it was worth $2K. That would make my ATX depreciate at 11K in 12 months..orclose to 30%. When I was looking at different vehicles, eg Commodore, Falcon, Maxima..it became apparent that these like vehicles (6cyl. family sedans) depreciated at around 50% @ 5 years, and way down to 90% at 9 years. Those numbers aren't exact of course, but you get the drift. Have y'all noticed a worsening of the depreciation value of vehicles, or are decent second hand holding up verses a new one? I suspect it might be down to 50% well inside of 5 years. :o