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Latest Postings
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Turboed Corolla Overbuilt?
MN: ZZE122R Engine: 1ZZ-FE Hi, I'm currently in the final stages of researching about boosting my car which I'm finding is incredibly expensive but oh well car people aren't sensible people. I was looking to make this car a sort of daily but take it to the track and car meets. Anyways I was just looking around at other forums and I couldn't find any that described the type of mods required for a certain power level as I don't want to spend a heap of money when I don't need to however I want to make it kinda reliable so idk. My power goals are between 275-350hp running E85, here are the engine internals I want to upgrade: Monkey Wrench Racing (MWR) 1ZZ-FE Engine Rebuild - Forged Rods, ARP Main and Head Studs, Ported, Upgraded valves, stock 10:1 CR Turbo - GTX2860R Fueling - MWR Injectors 630cc, AEM fuel Pump 340lph, (might do flex fuel), Intake - Billet Centre fed intake, Haltech DBW conversion Boost control - (I'm not too sure what to buy) Intercooler - (Anything that'll fit) I hope I wasn't too vague, I was asking a tuner in my area called Tunehouse (lovely people btw) and all they said was you might have to run a bit of boost so I'm not too sure how to interpret that in this context. Any advice will help, thanks. -
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2ZR Turbo
hey mate, car is back on the road. been daily driving it since may. issues that i currently have are fuel leak, afr gauge not working and no boost in first. fuel leak was a result of me removing the fuel pump to see if i upgrade the stock one. still need to diagnose afr gauge as the rest of the sensors from the multi gauge work. worst comes to worst, i will just run a separate afr gauge. no boost in first should be fixed by tune. car still is currently untuned but hoping to get that done before the end of the year. havent had any issues with police so far. driven past a few highway patrol cars and normal police cars. my car isnt really red hot however intercooler is quite visible. just dont hoon and my guess is you should be fine. i will eventually get an engineering certificate for the build just to save me the headache in the future when dealing with police -
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Rear power door
Do you have photo of the area when you found that button. I am having the same issue -
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Snapping wheel and axle studs
G'day my names Ben, first post as I am at a loose end after 2years of trial and error with today seeing my rear wheel sail by me, luckily as I just pulled up. History - 75 Series 1990 model with 730K on the clock, about rebuilt this cruiser but have conundrum I cannot figure out. Broke 6 sets of axle studs in 2 years (bought it 2years ago). Tensioned nuts at 25nm, the nuts come loose every 2 days 200km, only on the drivers side. I would re-tension them but diff oil would leak out due to the gasket tearing due to losening. Take it on the sand but rarely offroad, 95% driving is my run around, only ever broke them on the road and usually at high speed, freeway etc. I have replaced hub, bearings, even got a new drivers side axle as thought maybe slightly bent. Finally decided to drill and tap the right rear hub out to 10mm to fit 105 series studs, also gone through 2 hubs prior. This was 2 weeks and about 600km ago and then today my left wheel came off when 1 wheel stud snapped holes elongated on the steelies and wheel nuts ripped off. Had 1 person say it could be a bent diff housing. Ok if it is but also $2K for a new housing, something I am hesitant to do if it isn't the issue. I do have non standard wheel/tyres on it that are heavier than usual but surely it can handle that? Anyone ever heard this before? When buying the car it came with spare axles, now thinking it's been a long standing issue with this old girl, just lookin for answers and how to test the issue for what t is before I part with the $$ and find out it not the issue. Hoping someone with experience has seen this. Thanks! -
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Fuel filter change - start stops running
Check your fuel lines to the filter. The factory clamps are designed for quick removal but sometime come lose enough to allow air. I replaced all mine with 'worm drive' clamps. -
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Wobble at the front
Vibration under acceleration is quite commonly due to a failing CV axle. I had it happen on my old Aurion where coasting would be fine and under acceleration/load it would start to vibrate quite violently.- 1
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Brake issues
Had the rear rotors machined. So far have travelled under 10k kms and the problem has come back, albeit not as bad. Will have a chat with the guy who machined the rotors and DBA also. Maybe need to replace with genuine Toyota items. -
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Best Oil for 2014 Lancruiser GXL 200 series TT V8 Diesel
Hi Ross, we have a 2013 Landcruiser. Played with various oils and concluded that 5W30 Synthetic is the best option. Nulon seems to be on special often, GW is also good. Castrol Magnatec not really suitable for a diesel. Penrite is also good but try and stick to a full synthetic. No real need to change oil at 5000 Kms unless you worked the engine towing. I found that the oil level dropped when using the gearbox to slow down like you do in a manual. Other then that no oil use at 140k kms. Best oil is AMSOIL, but unduly expensive. Controversial but I swear by it is a 'catch can'. If you don't have one, get one but the right one for the car. Initially I was skeptical about its purpose but am sorry I did not get one from the beginning (new). If you check the design of the engine, the cam chain run just below the PCV valve. IMHO this promotes oils being flung into the PCV valve and hence the inlet tract. A catch can will catch that oil - no pun intended. -
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Wobble at the front
My 2011 V6 Aurion is doing the same vibration and wheel wobble under acceleration I replaced all the tyres had it checked over by mechanics not sure whats wrong after reading all the above conversations it's a mystery what it could be 🤔 Please let me know any possible answers ? Cheers ETW 777
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